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Posted: 2/25/2015 11:22:55 AM EDT
[#1]
Have you asked the manufacturer what they suggest? Maybe an ultrasonic bath in carbon killer solution? |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 11:23:40 AM EDT
[#2]
Tag
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Posted: 2/25/2015 11:24:12 AM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Have you asked the manufacturer what they suggest? I had in the past, before significant fouling appeared. They said no cleaning is necessary other than the mounts. I have emailed them these pics to see what they suggest, but no dice yet. |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 11:24:30 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Have you asked the manufacturer what they suggest? |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 11:25:28 AM EDT
[#5]
Free stater problems.
Isn't there a service life on suppressors? Will AAC "repair" it? Can they replace everything and keep the same serial # so you don't have to do all the NFA stuff? |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 11:26:53 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Free stater problems.
Isn't there a service life on suppressors? Will AAC "repair" it? Can they replace everything and keep the same serial # so you don't have to do all the NFA stuff? No ones keeping you in a commie state Im sure there is a service life, but I want to keep it going for as long as possible. |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 11:27:46 AM EDT
[#7]
I ran mine in a heated ultrasonic cleaner with castrol superclean in the purple bottle. It not only cleaned the carbon out, it also killed the finish on the can which I believe is air cured cerakote. The can is clean though and sounds like it dropped a few decibels in the process.
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Posted: 2/25/2015 11:27:55 AM EDT
[#8]
Dammit, GemTech recommended something to clean my suppressor but I can't remember what it is! Basically you just fill the suppressor up, let it sit, then empty it out and allow it to dry. I'll post the name this evening if I can find the thread.
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Posted: 2/25/2015 11:29:05 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I ran mine in a heated ultrasonic cleaner with castrol superclean in the purple bottle. It not only cleaned the carbon out, it also killed the finish on the can which I believe is air cured cerakote. The can is clean though and sounds like it dropped a few decibels in the process. I could live with hitting the can with a rattle can I just want to prolong my investment |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 11:29:49 AM EDT
[#10]
plug the exit and fill it full of the dip
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Posted: 2/25/2015 11:30:19 AM EDT
[#11]
Man, that is nasty. I need a shower now.
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Posted: 2/25/2015 11:30:49 AM EDT
[#12]
Harbor Freight Sonic Cleaner might get the carbon out and be less damaging to the can. Worth a try.
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Posted: 2/25/2015 11:31:15 AM EDT
[#13]
I would (and I'm not kidding here) boil it in a 15% caustic and water solution for an hour or so, and let it cool in the pot.
The crap should almost float out after that. 
Edit: if using caustic (or Super Purple works too, as sugested below) DO NOT use an aluminum pan. |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 11:31:23 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Dammit, GemTech recommended something to clean my suppressor but I can't remember what it is! Basically you just fill the suppressor up, let it sit, then empty it out and allow it to dry. I'll post the name this evening if I can find the thread. GemTech says Gunzilla or Ed's Red. |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 11:31:43 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I ran mine in a heated ultrasonic cleaner with castrol superclean in the purple bottle. It not only cleaned the carbon out, it also killed the finish on the can which I believe is air cured cerakote. The can is clean though and sounds like it dropped a few decibels in the process. Yup this here. |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 11:33:34 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
plug the exit and fill it full of the dip I'd make sure what all materials the can was made of before I did that. If it is kosher, that'd be the route I'd go though. |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 11:34:02 AM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Yup this here. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I ran mine in a heated ultrasonic cleaner with castrol superclean in the purple bottle. It not only cleaned the carbon out, it also killed the finish on the can which I believe is air cured cerakote. The can is clean though and sounds like it dropped a few decibels in the process. Yup this here. The shop at work just got some new deal to clean corroded, dirty, greasy, oily heavy equipment parts. Im not sure its ultra sonic, but it does heat, I need to drop mine in it for an hour and see what happens. I think ultrasonic maybe the route I need, But I have heard its hard on welds? Anyone know if theres a truth to this? |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 11:35:25 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'd make sure what all materials the can was made of before I did that. If it is kosher, that'd be the route I'd go though. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
plug the exit and fill it full of the dip I'd make sure what all materials the can was made of before I did that. If it is kosher, that'd be the route I'd go though. The dip seems shady to me. I have done it on leaded barrels before with no ill repercussions, but something like on a silencer makes me worrisome. The can is made out of stainless and some other hard as shit material so I believe it would be fine, but the dip would have to be an absolute last option for me |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 11:36:08 AM EDT
[#19]
What about thermal shock.......like dry ice it -109F and then warm it up? Or simply dry ice in the can with warm water and let the freeze, forming carbonic acid do an acid wash and the effervescence clean out the can?
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Posted: 2/25/2015 11:38:28 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
GemTech says Gunzilla or Ed's Red. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Dammit, GemTech recommended something to clean my suppressor but I can't remember what it is! Basically you just fill the suppressor up, let it sit, then empty it out and allow it to dry. I'll post the name this evening if I can find the thread. GemTech says Gunzilla or Ed's Red. GUNZILLA!!! Thanks! |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 11:41:05 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What about thermal shock.......like dry ice it -109F and then warm it up? Or simply dry ice in the can with warm water and let the freeze, forming carbonic acid do an acid wash and the effervescence clean out the can? Id be worried about exposing it to temperature extremes like that, could possibly warp the can? Im no metal expert however |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 11:42:00 AM EDT
[#22]
Taggage.
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Posted: 2/25/2015 11:42:33 AM EDT
[#23]
wow, it's obvious some of you guys don't really know much about the dip or a m4-2000. the baffles are inconel 718 and are perfectly capable of handling the dip
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Posted: 2/25/2015 11:43:01 AM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The dip seems shady to me. I have done it on leaded barrels before with no ill repercussions, but something like on a silencer makes me worrisome. The can is made out of stainless and some other hard as shit material so I believe it would be fine, but the dip would have to be an absolute last option for me Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
plug the exit and fill it full of the dip I'd make sure what all materials the can was made of before I did that. If it is kosher, that'd be the route I'd go though. The dip seems shady to me. I have done it on leaded barrels before with no ill repercussions, but something like on a silencer makes me worrisome. The can is made out of stainless and some other hard as shit material so I believe it would be fine, but the dip would have to be an absolute last option for me I've used it several times on stainless baffles in my Element and Sparrow SS. I don't know how it would react with the Inconel blast baffle. I also don't know what other materials that can might be made of. I have an M42K in 6.8, but I only have a couple of thousand rounds through mine. |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 11:44:20 AM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
wow, it's obvious some of you guys don't really know much about the dip or a m4-2000. the baffles are inconel 718 and are perfectly capable of handling the dip Nice edit. Is the entire stack Inconel? I can't remember and AAC doesn't have that info on their site. |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 11:46:11 AM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Care to enlighten us ignorant folk? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
wow, it's obvious some of you guys don't really know much about the dip or a m4-2000. the baffles are inconel 718 and are perfectly capable of handling the dip Care to enlighten us ignorant folk? Agreed, I have done it for a few barrels before. Its simply so nasty and a pain in the dick to dispose of in the right way. Im not against using this method, but want it to be a last ditch option. I have no doubt the can would be fine, but its the handling of the toxic material after I would rather not mess with The entire stack and end cap is Inconel from my understanding |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 11:47:05 AM EDT
[#27]
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R1DtY2VwSyY
edit: eff youtube embeding. |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 11:47:18 AM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Is the entire stack Inconel? I can't remember and AAC doesn't have that info on their site. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
wow, it's obvious some of you guys don't really know much about the dip or a m4-2000. the baffles are inconel 718 and are perfectly capable of handling the dip Is the entire stack Inconel? I can't remember and AAC doesn't have that info on their site. inconel 718 stack with 316ss tube/caps |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 11:48:58 AM EDT
[#29]
Tag for info.
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Posted: 2/25/2015 11:50:50 AM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
inconel 718 stack with 316ss tube/caps Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
wow, it's obvious some of you guys don't really know much about the dip or a m4-2000. the baffles are inconel 718 and are perfectly capable of handling the dip Is the entire stack Inconel? I can't remember and AAC doesn't have that info on their site. inconel 718 stack with 316ss tube/caps Spring, latch and associated pin(s)? I've never seen any material discussion on those. |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 11:50:52 AM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Agreed, I have done it for a few barrels before. Its simply so nasty and a pain in the dick to dispose of in the right way. Im not against using this method, but want it to be a last ditch option. I have no doubt the can would be fine, but its the handling of the toxic material after I would rather not mess with The entire stack and end cap is Inconel from my understanding Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
wow, it's obvious some of you guys don't really know much about the dip or a m4-2000. the baffles are inconel 718 and are perfectly capable of handling the dip Care to enlighten us ignorant folk? Agreed, I have done it for a few barrels before. Its simply so nasty and a pain in the dick to dispose of in the right way. Im not against using this method, but want it to be a last ditch option. I have no doubt the can would be fine, but its the handling of the toxic material after I would rather not mess with The entire stack and end cap is Inconel from my understanding plug the end, pour in the dip into the core, let it sit in mason jar. when it's finished, invert the suppressor into the jar, shake out the fluid/gunk into the mason jar. screw on lid and keep it as the dumping jar for future cleaning or call your local recycling center to inquire about disposal of hazardous material |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 11:51:50 AM EDT
[#32]
Simple Green?
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Posted: 2/25/2015 11:51:50 AM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Spring, latch and associated pin(s)? I've never seen any material discussion on those. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
wow, it's obvious some of you guys don't really know much about the dip or a m4-2000. the baffles are inconel 718 and are perfectly capable of handling the dip Is the entire stack Inconel? I can't remember and AAC doesn't have that info on their site. inconel 718 stack with 316ss tube/caps Spring, latch and associated pin(s)? I've never seen any material discussion on those. they won't be in contact with the material but in a splashing when dumping the fluid. you don't submerge the entire suppressor |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 11:56:35 AM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
plug the end, pour in the dip into the core, let it sit in mason jar. when it's finished, invert the suppressor into the jar, shake out the fluid/gunk into the mason jar. screw on lid and keep it as the dumping jar for future cleaning or call your local recycling center to inquire about disposal of hazardous material Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
wow, it's obvious some of you guys don't really know much about the dip or a m4-2000. the baffles are inconel 718 and are perfectly capable of handling the dip Care to enlighten us ignorant folk? Agreed, I have done it for a few barrels before. Its simply so nasty and a pain in the dick to dispose of in the right way. Im not against using this method, but want it to be a last ditch option. I have no doubt the can would be fine, but its the handling of the toxic material after I would rather not mess with The entire stack and end cap is Inconel from my understanding plug the end, pour in the dip into the core, let it sit in mason jar. when it's finished, invert the suppressor into the jar, shake out the fluid/gunk into the mason jar. screw on lid and keep it as the dumping jar for future cleaning or call your local recycling center to inquire about disposal of hazardous material Don't get me wrong. This is definitely an option I am considering. I just want it to be a last ditch option. But you are correct it wouldn't be hard to do, and exposing the unknown items would definitely be minimized if not eliminated by the process you described |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 12:00:24 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Don't get me wrong. This is definitely an option I am considering. I just want it to be a last ditch option. But you are correct it wouldn't be hard to do, and exposing the unknown items would definitely be minimized if not eliminated by the process you described Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
wow, it's obvious some of you guys don't really know much about the dip or a m4-2000. the baffles are inconel 718 and are perfectly capable of handling the dip Care to enlighten us ignorant folk? Agreed, I have done it for a few barrels before. Its simply so nasty and a pain in the dick to dispose of in the right way. Im not against using this method, but want it to be a last ditch option. I have no doubt the can would be fine, but its the handling of the toxic material after I would rather not mess with The entire stack and end cap is Inconel from my understanding plug the end, pour in the dip into the core, let it sit in mason jar. when it's finished, invert the suppressor into the jar, shake out the fluid/gunk into the mason jar. screw on lid and keep it as the dumping jar for future cleaning or call your local recycling center to inquire about disposal of hazardous material Don't get me wrong. This is definitely an option I am considering. I just want it to be a last ditch option. But you are correct it wouldn't be hard to do, and exposing the unknown items would definitely be minimized if not eliminated by the process you described |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 12:01:18 PM EDT
[#36]
Personally, I'd just call AAC.
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Posted: 2/25/2015 12:02:38 PM EDT
[#37]
I know the stainless is good to go as I have dipped 1911 barrels in the past.
Are we pretty confident the Inconcel and welds will have no ill repercussions from the dip? Id imagine not, but I believe I have heard not to dip things that are not stainless, I believe Inconel is a derivative of stainless however |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 12:03:56 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I know the stainless is good to go as I have dipped 1911 barrels in the past. Are we pretty confident the Inconcel and welds will have no ill repercussions from the dip? Id imagine not, but I believe I have heard not to dip things that are not stainless, I believe Inconel is a derivative of stainless however call AAC and see what they say about the welds, but inconel is good to go |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 12:07:54 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
call AAC and see what they say about the welds, but inconel is good to go Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I know the stainless is good to go as I have dipped 1911 barrels in the past. Are we pretty confident the Inconcel and welds will have no ill repercussions from the dip? Id imagine not, but I believe I have heard not to dip things that are not stainless, I believe Inconel is a derivative of stainless however call AAC and see what they say about the welds, but inconel is good to go Will do. I have an email floating out there to them. Ill see what they say back and then ask. I understand their in the process of moving so it maybe some time. Not to mention Im sure their just like "fuck not another how do I clean my can question"
Im going to try the tub cleaner thingy in the shop before I do anything. Not sure its ultra sonic, but its free to try 
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Posted: 2/25/2015 12:11:22 PM EDT
[#40]
Dip in simple green use a Spaghetti Tower, shake the hell out of it let sit for 4 hour. Wash the can out with water then dip it WD-40 in the tower again take out blow out with compressed air. Repeat as needed. Don't do with aluminum can.
Or use Ed's Red instead of the simple green |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 12:15:42 PM EDT
[#41]
Ultrasonic with carbon killer. It is going to have to soak for about a week or two...
Personally, I would run it for a few hours, soak for a day, repeat...for a week or so. Carbon killer and similar products require a lot of soak time. They are not fast acting at all. |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 12:18:44 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Ultrasonic with carbon killer. It is going to have to soak for about a week or two... Personally, I would run it for a few hours, soak for a day, repeat...for a week or so. Carbon killer and similar products require a lot of soak time. They are not fast acting at all. Its super expensive too. I let it soak for a day, but wasn't in a ultra sonic. It didn't do anything for me just sitting inside there, but ultrasonic could be the game changer |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 12:20:24 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Id be worried about exposing it to temperature extremes like that, could possibly warp the can? Im no metal expert however Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
What about thermal shock.......like dry ice it -109F and then warm it up? Or simply dry ice in the can with warm water and let the freeze, forming carbonic acid do an acid wash and the effervescence clean out the can? Id be worried about exposing it to temperature extremes like that, could possibly warp the can? Im no metal expert however Certainly an aspect to consider. Do any manufacturers have advice when shooting in extreme environments? I mean if you are up in the Arctic and blast a 30 rd mag on a cold can that would be a greater extreme. No doubt the type of metals used are a factor, but I've just never seen even generalized info. I shoot a lot of 22LR in my early version 45 Tirant. I just freeze it and then blast some centerfire ammo in it. It seems to be safe, but on a full power rifle I would be hesitant. I don't have terrible fouling, but then how much 22LR is a bad thing? |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 12:25:31 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
plug the exit and fill it full of the dip No. The dip is designed to remove lead buildup by chemically reacting into lead acetate. Lead isn't the problem in a centerfire rifle can. |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 12:32:55 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
No. The dip is designed to remove lead buildup by chemically reacting into lead acetate. Lead isn't the problem in a centerfire rifle can. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
plug the exit and fill it full of the dip No. The dip is designed to remove lead buildup by chemically reacting into lead acetate. Lead isn't the problem in a centerfire rifle can. I believe theres a mix of carbon, lead, and vaporized copper in the blast chamber. I bet the dip would do some serious work on that stuff. When you get enough rounds down the can, lead can most definitely be an issue. Most 5.56mm rounds have the ass end exposed which is bare lead |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 12:34:36 PM EDT
[#46]
AAC replied.
Plug kroil for atleast a few hours(I would be surprised if a day or two would even touch whats in there). Then try to attack it with a stainless brush, or use a screw driver and hammer like I have before. He says he doesn't believe much crud would make it past the blast chamber I replied back asking about ultrasonic cleaners and the dip. Ill update when I know |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 12:45:15 PM EDT
[#47]
Plug one end. Pee in it. Run a torch up and down the sides to heat it up.
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Posted: 2/25/2015 12:51:12 PM EDT
[#48]
Found a thread from 09 where Mers said you could dip a M4-2000 without any ill repercussions.
Looking like more and more this is the best route to get it done without spending significant effort on it. |
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Posted: 2/25/2015 12:54:53 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I believe theres a mix of carbon, lead, and vaporized copper in the blast chamber. I bet the dip would do some serious work on that stuff. When you get enough rounds down the can, lead can most definitely be an issue. Most 5.56mm rounds have the ass end exposed which is bare lead Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
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plug the exit and fill it full of the dip No. The dip is designed to remove lead buildup by chemically reacting into lead acetate. Lead isn't the problem in a centerfire rifle can. I believe theres a mix of carbon, lead, and vaporized copper in the blast chamber. I bet the dip would do some serious work on that stuff. When you get enough rounds down the can, lead can most definitely be an issue. Most 5.56mm rounds have the ass end exposed which is bare lead There is definitely a difference in rimfire and centerfire fouling....Rimfire has poorer ignition and more unburnt stuff, as well as more impurities. It also doesn't generate nearly as much heat so there is less lead vapor, but certainly the possibility for more lead exposure at the borehole. It seems like more Pb distribution in the can's core. So regardless you have to be able to remove Pb. I think Pb removal challenges are over hyped. Lead solubility increases dramatically below a pH of 6, however if you have other non metallic constituents it minimizes the contact of acids/heated solutions with Pb or Cu. This is why I believe frequent mild acid baths are important to keep a good metal removal rate and thermal shock is good to break up carbon fouling. I'm still experimenting, but I haven't ruined my can yet
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