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Posted: 6/4/2012 3:12:10 AM EDT
[#1]
the difference is NOS versus pulls. When I asked, the expensive tubes are NOS, the cheaper tubes with high shipping are pulls.
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Posted: 6/4/2012 5:54:53 AM EDT
[#2]
Originally Posted By RyJones:
the difference is NOS versus pulls. When I asked, the expensive tubes are NOS, the cheaper tubes with high shipping are pulls. I don't understand the lingo. What does this mean? |
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Posted: 6/4/2012 6:13:43 AM EDT
[Last Edit: RaptorFuel]
[#3]
Would this make a good lens? It's a little on the expensive side but would give a little more versatility i think. I'm having a hell of a time finding the right lens.
Originally Posted By AJ_Dual:
Originally Posted By Sturmgewehr-58:
Originally Posted By AJ_Dual:
Does anyone know what the nominal diameter of a Canon EF or EF-S socket is? The internal diameter of the Canon EF mount is 54 mm. WHOOPS. Idiot... I edited this above..., thinking I was quoting... 
If anyone is getting the Aluminum tubes and doing a "sfax39" style build, I found a GREAT flange adapter that fits 2" PVC perfectly. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_18/359614_DIY_Cascade_Tube_Thread___.html&page=9#i3403094 A Canon EOS bayonet mount, on a C-mount adapter flange will be a TIGHT press fit into a 2" ring cut from a PVC pipe, I should have measured it with my micrometer, but the bayonet flanges on the C-mount adapter kind of scratch their way into the ID of the PVC pipe just a bit, and can be hammered in with a plastic mallet really tight into the PVC stand-off. That friction or interference fit alone is almost strong enough at least to mock it up and make sure your measurements fit and focus is right. After that, a bead of cyanoacrylate glue, or your preferred epoxy will make it very tight and strong. Example... Then that 2" PVC pipe piece with the flange glued in, and set into a cut piece of a 2" PVC coupler, which fits the ID of the 3" aluminum tubing with 1/8" walls almost perfectly. I like this idea. I just ordered the aluminum tube and the canon bayonet c-mount adapter. Being as I live in the barracks I don't have much fabricating capability. And I really cant justify buying several feet of PVC for a small piece. If someone who has the pipe on hand was willing to cut me the 2 pieces of PVC to make that adapter to center the mount into the tubing I would pay them for the shipping/materials/time. Just send me a PM. |
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AUS
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Posted: 6/4/2012 8:13:07 AM EDT
[#4]
My guess would be NOS is new old stock/ unused and PULLS would be pulled for used gear.....
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Posted: 6/4/2012 1:59:45 PM EDT
[#5]
Originally Posted By rusty59:
My guess would be NOS is new old stock/ unused and PULLS would be pulled for used gear..... yes |
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Posted: 6/4/2012 8:12:58 PM EDT
[#6]
Looks like Anchor is closed for the Diamond Jubilee.
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Posted: 6/6/2012 12:05:06 PM EDT
[#7]
Got an email from Charlotte.
£144 shipped for 2 tubes. Works out to $224ish USD. Paypal sent today. 
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NY, USA
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Posted: 6/8/2012 11:15:42 AM EDT
[Last Edit: ACDer]
[#8]
Here is my first try using the Alvin aluminum mailing tube as a housing source. The lens is an old 58mm F1.4 Minolta/Rokker camera lens bought off ebay and mounted with a C-mount adapter.I also used the end caps that came with the tube. Will try it out tonight.
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Posted: 6/8/2012 11:50:25 AM EDT
[#9]
Mine is pretty much set to go. I just need to drill and tap for the set-screws to hold the PVC spacer rings in place, and run a bead of black gasket RTV silicone over all the edges and the wire ports for light and weather resistance.
My issue right now is I can feel a fair amount of static shocks coming through the intensifier's HV supply out into the tube, my hand, and the 6VDC supply wires and battery box. AFAIK, nothing's touching, but are there strategic points I should be insulating beyond just the rubberized body of the intensifier tube? |
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Posted: 6/9/2012 2:03:27 PM EDT
[#10]
Originally Posted By ACDer:
Here is my first try using the Alvin aluminum mailing tube as a housing source. The lens is an old 58mm F1.4 Minolta/Rokker camera lens bought off ebay and mounted with a C-mount adapter.I also used the end caps that came with the tube. Will try it out tonight. http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m250/acder/2012-06-08_11-00-45_396.jpg Wow!! That looks totally professional! 
Can you take some more pics of the details? I like the battery box. |
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NY, USA
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Posted: 6/9/2012 2:53:05 PM EDT
[#11]
Thank you.its really pretty simple. The radio shack battery box costs a couple dollars.I attach it with Velcro. I cut a one inch hole in one of the mailing tube caps and glue in the c mount ring and cut a larger hole in the other cap to fit over the pvs -2e ye piece. I will try to post more pics later. The Minolta lens works quite well.
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Posted: 6/9/2012 3:49:20 PM EDT
[#12]
Originally Posted By ACDer:
Here is my first try using the Alvin aluminum mailing tube as a housing source. The lens is an old 58mm F1.4 Minolta/Rokker camera lens bought off ebay and mounted with a C-mount adapter.I also used the end caps that came with the tube. Will try it out tonight. http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m250/acder/2012-06-08_11-00-45_396.jpg Great job, that looks pro and simple to make! |
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Posted: 6/9/2012 9:14:40 PM EDT
[Last Edit: coctailer]
[#13]
Originally Posted By ACDer:
Thank you.its really pretty simple. The radio shack battery box costs a couple dollars.I attach it with Velcro. I cut a one inch hole in one of the mailing tube caps and glue in the c mount ring and cut a larger hole in the other cap to fit over the pvs -2e ye piece. I will try to post more pics later. The Minolta lens works quite well. Thanks!! I'm interested to see how the eye piece and lens attach.
I'm a visual person. |
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NY, USA
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Posted: 6/10/2012 5:08:03 PM EDT
[Last Edit: ACDer]
[#14]
Originally Posted By coctailer:
Originally Posted By ACDer:
Thank you.its really pretty simple. The radio shack battery box costs a couple dollars.I attach it with Velcro. I cut a one inch hole in one of the mailing tube caps and glue in the c mount ring and cut a larger hole in the other cap to fit over the pvs -2e ye piece. I will try to post more pics later. The Minolta lens works quite well. Thanks!! I'm interested to see how the eye piece and lens attach.
I'm a visual person. Here are some close ups. I really recommend using the c-mount lenses-as you can see-the lenses just screw into the ring-makes mounting and swapping lenses a breeze. The PVS-2 eye piece mates directly to the cascade tube-I just wrap some electrical tape around the joint to hold them together during assembly. The end cap then fits over the eye piece barrel and makes contact with its base. i really like the Alvin tube-it has a great look and feel to it and is easy to work with. I'm ordering more end caps from them and am going to rebuild my earlier scopes with it. http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m250/acder/2012-06-10_09-37-28_423.jpg http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m250/acder/2012-06-10_09-36-27_7.jpg |
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Posted: 6/10/2012 6:22:53 PM EDT
[#15]
Well done!!
How is the fit between the Cascade and the inside diameter of the Alvin? I'd you need to shim it? Looks like you could get 3-4 housings out of one Alvin. |
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Posted: 6/10/2012 6:55:13 PM EDT
[#16]
Originally Posted By ACDer:
Originally Posted By coctailer:
Originally Posted By ACDer:
Thank you.its really pretty simple. The radio shack battery box costs a couple dollars.I attach it with Velcro. I cut a one inch hole in one of the mailing tube caps and glue in the c mount ring and cut a larger hole in the other cap to fit over the pvs -2e ye piece. I will try to post more pics later. The Minolta lens works quite well. Thanks!! I'm interested to see how the eye piece and lens attach.
I'm a visual person. Here are some close ups. I really recommend using the c-mount lenses-as you can see-the lenses just screw into the ring-makes mounting and swapping lenses a breeze. The PVS-2 eye piece mates directly to the cascade tube-I just wrap some electrical tape around the joint to hold them together during assembly. The end cap then fits over the eye piece barrel and makes contact with its base. i really like the Alvin tube-it has a great look and feel to it and is easy to work with. I'm ordering more end caps from them and am going to rebuild my earlier scopes with it. 
Made it hot for ya. |
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NY, USA
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Posted: 6/10/2012 8:21:03 PM EDT
[#17]
Originally Posted By coctailer:
Well done!! How is the fit between the Cascade and the inside diameter of the Alvin? I'd you need to shim it? Looks like you could get 3-4 housings out of one Alvin. There is a small gap-which is good as it makes wiring easier. I shimmed by wrapping a couple of bands of electrical tape around the tube-not a lot needed. I like to get a fairly tight fit-but which still allows some play to adjust the tube-once it is positioned and tested I'll glue a few small blocks in place to keep it from moving. Using the PVS-2 eyepiece, the housing comes out to about 8 3/8 inches, so I can get 4 housings out of one Alvin, which is coincidentally, the number of tubes I have. |
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Posted: 6/12/2012 5:48:53 PM EDT
[#18]
Got my tubes today. Looks like one is green and one purple. Is that normal?
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Posted: 6/12/2012 6:36:19 PM EDT
[#19]
Both look like healthy colors - that's fine. Regards David
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Posted: 6/12/2012 7:41:16 PM EDT
[Last Edit: coctailer]
[#20]
The eBay links are expired.
Where is everyone getting their PVS-2 eye pieces? ETA: Did some Googling. Clicky Is $85 a good price? |
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Posted: 6/13/2012 12:41:02 AM EDT
[#21]
Originally Posted By coctailer:
The eBay links are expired. Where is everyone getting their PVS-2 eye pieces? ETA: Did some Googling. Clicky Is $85 a good price? That's a bit steep, unless the condition, quality of the glass in there was going to be graded and guaranteed. I got mine for $ 60 on eBay. Although there's some moderate foxing, clouding, and corrosion on the lens coatings that won't clean off. And there was lots of Israeli desert dust/dirt in and on mine. Fortunately, the dirt cleaned out easily, and the focal plane goes right past all the imperfections it since its magnifying the green CRT screen, so these eyepieces can have a lot of abuse and optical flaws and still work great. It takes a pretty deep and big scratch to actually be noticeable when you're using the scope in the dark. And I've actually seen lots of 5 or more for a hundred-and change, a perfect buy for someone looking to pick the best and sell the rest to recoup his costs. However, I guess it comes down to waiting and what your time's worth... |
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NY, USA
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Posted: 6/13/2012 7:32:34 AM EDT
[#22]
Originally Posted By coctailer:
The eBay links are expired. Where is everyone getting their PVS-2 eye pieces? ETA: Did some Googling. Clicky Is $85 a good price? the lenses from that source are in good shape and they do shipping fast. However if you don't feel like spending that much money and want to look for a better bargain, you can always rig up a temporary eyepiece. I've had good luck making eyepieces up from the ones on junk rifle scopes. |
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Posted: 6/13/2012 7:37:04 PM EDT
[#23]
Originally Posted By Zoomies:
It's #3-48, metric. 1/4" long will sit tight to the threaded hole. Are we sure about this thread? I'm having a hard time finding it. |
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Posted: 6/13/2012 11:12:19 PM EDT
[#24]
Originally Posted By coctailer: Originally Posted By Zoomies: It's #3-48, metric. 1/4" long will sit tight to the threaded hole. Are we sure about this thread? I'm having a hard time finding it. no.. #3x 48 is not metric. It ain't an M3 either. I'll figure it out and let you know. |
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Posted: 6/13/2012 11:13:47 PM EDT
[#25]
Originally Posted By coctailer: The eBay links are expired. Where is everyone getting their PVS-2 eye pieces? ETA: Did some Googling. Clicky Is $85 a good price? Shiiiiiittttttt!!!!!!! I should have done some googling myself!!!!  |
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Posted: 6/13/2012 11:39:38 PM EDT
[#26]
Rtfm posted earlier. It tells you the thread. I went to ace and bought one of the screws for less than a quarter.
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Posted: 6/14/2012 10:41:17 AM EDT
[#27]
Originally Posted By rangermonroe:
Originally Posted By coctailer:
Originally Posted By Zoomies:
It's #3-48, metric. 1/4" long will sit tight to the threaded hole. Are we sure about this thread? I'm having a hard time finding it. no.. #3x 48 is not metric. It ain't an M3 either. I'll figure it out and let you know. I got tired of trying to find a screw, so I just soldered the + Pos wire in there, and then covered it up with a dab of RTV silicone caulk for stress-relief.
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Posted: 6/14/2012 2:33:36 PM EDT
[#28]
Originally Posted By RyJones: Rtfm posted earlier. It tells you the thread. I went to ace and bought one of the screws for less than a quarter. What was it? |
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Posted: 6/14/2012 3:47:33 PM EDT
[#29]
Originally Posted By rangermonroe:
Originally Posted By RyJones:
Rtfm posted earlier. It tells you the thread. I went to ace and bought one of the screws for less than a quarter. What was it? if I knew, I would say. It's in the manual that was posted earlier. I don't have access to it here. |
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Posted: 6/14/2012 4:56:36 PM EDT
[#30]
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Posted: 6/14/2012 5:39:52 PM EDT
[#31]
Thanks.
Off to ACE I go! |
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USA
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Posted: 6/20/2012 4:49:00 AM EDT
[#32]
Hello guys, question for You.
Have anyone tried adding potentiometer to electric circut to adjust voltage given to intensifier ? According to P8079HP documentation higher voltage may boost slightly "performence". And i was just curious is it in any way usefull to give high voltage battery and get volt down by potentiometer, and add it in "critical" situation when conditions suck ? |
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Posted: 6/21/2012 11:29:15 PM EDT
[Last Edit: twestbrook10]
[#33]
Is a C-mount lens required for this type of project? I am going to use a PVS-2 eyepiece but I want for the front lens to be as small as possible. What would be a good option for this?
Also, what size reticle are y'all using for this tube? Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Posted: 6/22/2012 6:38:19 AM EDT
[#34]
Originally Posted By twestbrook10: Is a C-mount lens required for this type of project? I am going to use a PVS-2 eyepiece but I want for the front lens to be as small as possible. What would be a good option for this? Also, what size reticle are y'all using for this tube? Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile None of us are using reticles AFAIK, but I think the 32mm ones fit from memory. Seriously, this isn't a good idea. It will work as a riflescope if set up correctly, but it's not recommended. Regards David
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Posted: 6/22/2012 11:21:34 AM EDT
[#35]
I wonder if one of those Hendsolt reticles would work from the panzerschreck.
It would be good for measuring distances in a spotting scope like these. I think I have a couple of the optics around here somewhere........maybe use the whole optic as an eyepiece? |
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Posted: 6/22/2012 2:35:56 PM EDT
[#36]
Originally Posted By coctailer:
I wonder if one of those Hendsolt reticles would work from the panzerschreck. It would be good for measuring distances in a spotting scope like these. I think I have a couple of the optics around here somewhere........maybe use the whole optic as an eyepiece? Reticles do look cool in the scope though. 
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Posted: 6/26/2012 12:50:31 AM EDT
[#37]
Any reason why one couldn't silicone the PVS-2 eyepiece into the Cascade tube once the wire is soldered to the inner ring?
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Posted: 6/26/2012 6:11:36 AM EDT
[#38]
Originally Posted By coctailer: Any reason why one couldn't silicone the PVS-2 eyepiece into the Cascade tube once the wire is soldered to the inner ring? I think you have the tube ends confused. Anyway, you wouldn't have to silicon the eyepiece to the tube. You can just tape it there with enough duct tape. You might get some static discharge though so it's not recommended for field use.
Regards David |
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Posted: 6/26/2012 10:49:44 AM EDT
[Last Edit: coctailer]
[#39]
Originally Posted By cj7hawk:
Originally Posted By coctailer:
Any reason why one couldn't silicone the PVS-2 eyepiece into the Cascade tube once the wire is soldered to the inner ring? I think you have the tube ends confused. Anyway, you wouldn't have to silicon the eyepiece to the tube. You can just tape it there with enough duct tape. You might get some static discharge though so it's not recommended for field use.
Regards David Ya, I woke up this morning realizing I confused the tube ends.
I was tired last night. 
I was thinking gluing (silicone) the eyepiece in might look better than tape, and be more rigid. I just didnt know if there was any reason to take the eyepiece back off ever...... |
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USA
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Posted: 6/26/2012 11:55:23 AM EDT
[Last Edit: hannon]
[#40]
Hey there. I nearly finished my diy nv, but i have a small problem. Why im getting a fisheye effect when i look through it ?
Thats how it looks like now : http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/1848/nokto26062012278.jpg. I used old minolta 50mm F1.7 and it seems to work not so bad. |
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Posted: 6/26/2012 10:04:32 PM EDT
[#41]
I'm contemplating using a PVS-2 objective lens. Are they able to be adjusted or would I have to do it manually by pushing it back and forth?
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POL
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Posted: 6/26/2012 10:24:12 PM EDT
[#42]
http://www.nightvisionforums.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=6841
Thats all i found. |
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Posted: 6/27/2012 2:48:34 PM EDT
[Last Edit: AJ_Dual]
[#43]
Mildly funny situation while showing my father the completed build of my scope.
The Dual family goes over to my parent's house every Sunday for dinner, and to let our kids run and play in their much larger yard further out in the 'burbs. I waited until dusk, and went down to the basement which was dimly lit by just a few foundation windows. You could actually see down there okay once dark-adapted, but my father came down to try the scope, and I said "over here" from the end of the basement I was on. And I watched him walk across the basement towards me in the scope. But with the somewhat narrow depth of field, and no actual depth perception with only one eye, and not yet used to watching people/things in the scope and sort of instantly "forgetting" it's DARK, I watched him walk right into one of the metal support Lally columns that run down the middle of the basement with his head. I warned him "DAD! LOOKOUT!", but it was too late. His head made a rather resonant BOOOOONNNNNG!-sound on the metal pipe.
He still thought the scope was neat though. ETA: Info for friends here not in America, where "Lally Column" might be called something different, or not common in home construction, or even just folks from southern/western U.S. states where full depth basements aren't as common. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lally_column Row of Lally Columns and I-beam down centerline of a typical American home's basement. |
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Posted: 6/27/2012 7:18:42 PM EDT
[#44]
Originally Posted By AJ_Dual: Mildly funny situation while showing my father the completed build of my scope. The Dual family goes over to my parent's house every Sunday for dinner, and to let our kids run and play in their much larger yard further out in the 'burbs. I waited until dusk, and went down to the basement which was dimly lit by just a few foundation windows. You could actually see down there okay once dark-adapted, but my father came down to try the scope, and I said "over here" from the end of the basement I was on. And I watched him walk across the basement towards me in the scope. But with the somewhat narrow depth of field, and no actual depth perception with only one eye, and not yet used to watching people/things in the scope and sort of instantly "forgetting" it's DARK, I watched him walk right into one of the metal support Lally columns that run down the middle of the basement with his head. I warned him "DAD! LOOKOUT!", but it was too late. His head made a rather resonant BOOOOONNNNNG!-sound on the metal pipe. He still thought the scope was neat though. ETA: Info for friends here not in America, where "Lally Column" might be called something different, or not common in home construction, or even just folks from southern/western U.S. states where full depth basements aren't as common. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lally_column Row of Lally Columns and I-beam down centerline of a typical American home's basement. Worse, I was switching the thermal up to my unaided eye so it couldn't fully dark adapt either and I stopped using it. Then at one point I flipped the monocular up and actually wondered what happened to the lights for a moment. Under really low light conditions, that little circle of green very quickly becomes the only reality doesn't it. Glad your dad liked it - hope he wasn't hurt too much. Regards David |
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Posted: 6/27/2012 8:08:00 PM EDT
[#45]
Eons ago, I was on a LP/OP and doing my turn on the NODS (PVS-7s) and wondered why all the lights were on. I flipped them up and it was as dark as it was supposed to be. Flipped them down, and it looked like I was in a stadium.
I looked all around, and noticed that it was a big circle of light that was "moving" across the ground. It was a Specter AC-130 with it's IR "sun" lighting us up. Was quite the amazing thing. |
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NY, USA
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Posted: 6/27/2012 8:33:32 PM EDT
[Last Edit: ACDer]
[#46]
Originally Posted By twestbrook10:
I'm contemplating using a PVS-2 objective lens. Are they able to be adjusted or would I have to do it manually by pushing it back and forth? You will have to be able to manually move it fore and aft until you get a good focus. Not too hard to do, I just used a cardboard tube with a fairly tight fit to hold it. |
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Posted: 6/28/2012 9:01:45 PM EDT
[Last Edit: twestbrook10]
[#47]
Yeah I ended up getting this:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/546271-REG/Pentax_C22525KP_C22525KP_1_C_Mount.html I was kind of pumped about using a camera lens. With my PVS-2 eyepiece I think I'll have 1:1 zoom. We'll see how it goes. Thanks for the advice, guys. Y'all are great. |
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Posted: 6/29/2012 6:41:05 AM EDT
[#48]
Originally Posted By twestbrook10: Yeah I ended up getting this: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/546271-REG/Pentax_C22525KP_C22525KP_1_C_Mount.html I was kind of pumped about using a camera lens. With my PVS-2 eyepiece I think I'll have 1:1 zoom. We'll see how it goes. Thanks for the advice, guys. Y'all are great. You might want to look at these: I got one and so far it looks like it's a good lens for the price, though only 50mm. Seems to be genuine F1.4 too. Regards David
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Posted: 6/29/2012 10:57:43 AM EDT
[#49]
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Posted: 6/29/2012 8:12:19 PM EDT
[#50]
Originally Posted By coctailer: This claims a wide field of view. Hows this one look? Clickety Clickety Both have 50mm lenses. Both have F1.4. The unit you linked to is 2/3" format. The one I linked to is at least 2/3" format and may even be 1" given the construction, which was surprisingly good for a cheap lens. Though it doesn't actually say... Both have exactly the same FOV. However the one I linked to is cheaper... So that's where I went in the end. Those micro4/3 adapters would be perfect to fit to the front of your tube housing, BTW. Either with copious quantities of glue or screws, since they are big enough. You could even probably fit them bayonet style to many end caps. Your choice beyond that I guess. If you get the other, let me know what you think. BTW, 75mm is the best choice - :) 50mm is cheaper, but will only give about 2x magnification. Regards David
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