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DIY Annealing Machine (Page 10 of 17)
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Originally Posted By djmurf:
All -- I'm in the process of building this annealer, and was able to pick up 2x2 aluminum angle iron. I need to cut one side down to a 1/2" to fit the annealer... What should I use to cut this? I have a table saw, and a cheap carbide tipped blade, but I'm seeing mixed comments out there on using it to cut aluminum. How did you guys cut it? I really didn't want to drop 50 bucks on a special blade for this one cut... Any suggestions? Thanks! I have cut plenty of aluminum with a carbide blade on a tablesaw. Set the blade to just cut thru the aluminumand not stick up higher than the cut requires. Chips will fly so use safety glasses and feed slow. HTH Roger |
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Originally Posted By RogerRonas: I have cut plenty of aluminum with a carbide blade on a tablesaw. Set the blade to just cut thru the aluminumand not stick up higher than the cut requires. Chips will fly so use safety glasses and feed slow. HTH Roger Originally Posted By RogerRonas: Originally Posted By djmurf: All -- I'm in the process of building this annealer, and was able to pick up 2x2 aluminum angle iron. I need to cut one side down to a 1/2" to fit the annealer... What should I use to cut this? I have a table saw, and a cheap carbide tipped blade, but I'm seeing mixed comments out there on using it to cut aluminum. How did you guys cut it? I really didn't want to drop 50 bucks on a special blade for this one cut... Any suggestions? Thanks! I have cut plenty of aluminum with a carbide blade on a tablesaw. Set the blade to just cut thru the aluminumand not stick up higher than the cut requires. Chips will fly so use safety glasses and feed slow. HTH Roger Perfect -- I'll give it a shot. Thanks |
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I've seen homebuilt airplane builders use a tablesaw for this too. Finest tooth carbide blade you have, lay a line of wax down the cut, and just barely cut through as the poster above stated.
I had one guy claim he ran the blade backwards to make the cut, but I sure wouldn't know about that! |
Just remember, it was Ping! before it was Pew-Pew-Pew....Harv24
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Yes I've heard about the "backwards" trick, but I don't.
I recently finished making aluminum jigs to bend color composite (alum/plastic) sheets for a new Dairy Queen we built.....and used my wood table saw with a special aluminum cutting blade. Works much better than a backwards blade.....smooth as a babies butt. I'll look for my source and post it in this post. Ah here it is.....Amana Aluminum Cutting blade I bought my blade locally, and I also used it to cut aluminum thin walled canopy mouldings......worked great! 
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Thanks everyone. I ended up buying a cheap fine tooth carbide blade from Home Depot: I went with a smaller blade ( 7 1/4 ) on a 10in table saw to reduce the overall cutting speed, had read that aluminum cuts better at slower speeds. Put PAM on the blade and aluminum for lube, and it cut like butter, and was very precise. I'm almost done with the annealer, still need to attach the torch, but here's where I"m currently at: I'll post one more video when it's completed. Dean |
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Annealer is fully functional: First, I wanted to say thanks for everyone on the thread for the great ideas and for laying out the plans for the annealer -- brilliant! I used 750 degree tempilaq on the inside of LC 11 308 brass, and it turned black at a little over 6 seconds of exposure, so if I trust the tempilaq, it's been annealed, however the brass barely shows any color change. Here are some pics: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4G0rslxxoBIS2FrOEptTkViVlk/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4G0rslxxoBIQ1JNdFRkZG85ejA/view?usp=sharing Is this what you guys are generally seeing? I've got the flame hitting right at the lower part of the neck, do I need to move it back further on the shoulder? Thanks again everyone. |
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Originally Posted By djmurf:
Annealer is fully functional: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Vgvx8eK514 First, I wanted to say thanks for everyone on the thread for the great ideas and for laying out the plans for the annealer -- brilliant! I used 750 degree tempilaq on the inside of LC 11 308 brass, and it turned black at a little over 6 seconds of exposure, so if I trust the tempilaq, it's been annealed, however the brass barely shows any color change. Here are some pics: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4G0rslxxoBIV0Vic3dYQm9RZlU/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4G0rslxxoBIS2FrOEptTkViVlk/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4G0rslxxoBIQ1JNdFRkZG85ejA/view?usp=sharing Is this what you guys are generally seeing? I've got the flame hitting right at the lower part of the neck, do I need to move it back further on the shoulder? Thanks again everyone. Case color vary but they should show some color when heated enough. I believe your not hot enough. Put the blue tip of the flame so it touches the case neck. I set mine right in the center of the neck. Make sure your reading the Tempilac correctly, it is at the indicated tempature when the Tempilac liquidfys, not a change of color. Use a test case with a clean mouth. I have a few test cases I use to setup each run. I drilled a hole through the body by the web on each to be sure it does not get loaded. After each Tempilac run be sure to brush out the old Tempilac from the case mouths before each use or you will get a false temperature reading. It's also a good idea to have some 450 degree Tempilac to insure there is no over heating towards the head of the case. Great job by the way! |
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My 2c worth
Case color change isnt a good indicator. A case that has been exposed to outside world from sealed container etc, over time and has got that tarnished dull brass " pateena look " will show color change. Over a super clean shiny, stainless tumbled case. Where the case almost barely indicates, that case has been annealed. Hence the use of tempilaq is recomended. If the cases start to "burn off" whilst annealing the neck will show a orange flame develop, thats the point the case neck has started to go beyond the temp for annealing and started to become over annealed, Now getting the case neck to start glowing is another over anneal ( like doing it in a darkend room ) they should be destined to the scrap bin. Its nice to see theres a metric shit tonne, of black betty clones out there  the whoe point of the build was to share so others could get there hands on a annealer that is cheap and has some consistency with it. After all thats what reloading is all about and shooting tiny holes ( consistancy is the key to marksmenship )
Again nice builds everyone. Skip. |
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Skip: Does it give you a warm fuzzy feeling to be so famous that you can now use just a single name?
As far as I'm concerned, you're now in the same league as Zorro, Sting, Moses, Chewbacca, Cher, Tarzan, Elvis, Liberace, Popeye, and Prince. Thanks for developing such a well designed annealing machine. I really like my "Skip" annealer and wouldn't trade it for any of the much more expensive commercially made machines. You, da' Man! 
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Hey Moz
My nickname has always been "Skip" coz of the industry i was involved in for a long time. Any way, hope all you guys have a safe and a enjoyable festive season. 2016 has a couple of other diy reloading builds that might tickle a few shooters :) Keep the annealers coming, they are like a fine scotch ( gets better with age ) Skip |
| Djmurf - I'm curious about the readout and the method you used to get the small drum to return to the same position. If you are willing could you share some details of your build that are different from those seen already? Nice job, it looks good and works good. Mine timing is just a matter of adjusting it with the tempilaq. |
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Yes, I did use an Arduino ( microcontroller ). Essentially what I used: Arduino Mega 2 Nema 17 stepper motors Ramps 1.4 Shield to control the stepper motors ( using microstepping ) Hall effect sensor ( magnetic sensor ) Small disc magnet glued on the back of the main drum to trip the sensor each rotation. LCD screen for the display Rheostat for controlling the speed of the drum. I will say that the original design is more affordable and less complex, however I was looking for a project to learn how to program the Arduino at about the same time I started on the annealer, so I took the opportunity to use it to drive the annealer. The one nice part about the stepper motors is that you can control their exact speed ( rpms ) and know the exact rotation time and position, as well as control them with some descent precision. And I did sort out the annealing. I ended up buying some 425 degree Tempilaq also for the head of the case, and I have the exposure time down to about 6 seconds for 308 brass. I drop the brass right after hitting 750 degrees, and the head never hits 425 degrees. The LC 308 brass really doesn't give the "annealed" appearance, but I know the inside of the neck hit 750. It's also very apparent that it's been annealed once I started trimming it. This is fresh military brass ( machine gun fired ), and before annealing you could feel the hardness when trimming it. Even using a carbide tipped trimming blade, it was extremely hard to trim. After annealing the brass is peeling off instead of "chipping" when trimming it. If anyone else is interested in going down the path of using the Arduino to control it, let me know, I'd be more than happy to share the code that I wrote to drive it. Dean |
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Originally Posted By djmurf:
Yes, I did use an Arduino ( microcontroller ). Essentially what I used: Arduino Mega 2 Nema 17 stepper motors Ramps 1.4 Shield to control the stepper motors ( using microstepping ) Hall effect sensor ( magnetic sensor ) Small disc magnet glued on the back of the main drum to trip the sensor each rotation. LCD screen for the display Rheostat for controlling the speed of the drum. I will say that the original design is more affordable and less complex, however I was looking for a project to learn how to program the Arduino at about the same time I started on the annealer, so I took the opportunity to use it to drive the annealer. The one nice part about the stepper motors is that you can control their exact speed ( rpms ) and know the exact rotation time and position, as well as control them with some descent precision. And I did sort out the annealing. I ended up buying some 425 degree Tempilaq also for the head of the case, and I have the exposure time down to about 6 seconds for 308 brass. I drop the brass right after hitting 750 degrees, and the head never hits 425 degrees. The LC 308 brass really doesn't give the "annealed" appearance, but I know the inside of the neck hit 750. It's also very apparent that it's been annealed once I started trimming it. This is fresh military brass ( machine gun fired ), and before annealing you could feel the hardness when trimming it. Even using a carbide tipped trimming blade, it was extremely hard to trim. After annealing the brass is peeling off instead of "chipping" when trimming it. If anyone else is interested in going down the path of using the Arduino to control it, let me know, I'd be more than happy to share the code that I wrote to drive it. Dean OH OH OH Me (hand raised and waiving desperately).
I'd love to see your Arduino sketches. |
11-06-2012: All HOPE is lost, for there will be NO CHANGE.
And as the horde gazed over the edge into the abyss, they chanted FORWARD! FORWARD!
And as the horde gazed over the edge into the abyss, they chanted FORWARD! FORWARD!
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I'm 10 pages in and until I saw this video, I couldn't figure out how these things were supposed to work! lol looks awesome, I'm probably going to build one of these. awesome. |
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Originally Posted By djmurf:
Yes, I did use an Arduino ( microcontroller ). Essentially what I used: Arduino Mega 2 Nema 17 stepper motors Ramps 1.4 Shield to control the stepper motors ( using microstepping ) Hall effect sensor ( magnetic sensor ) Small disc magnet glued on the back of the main drum to trip the sensor each rotation. LCD screen for the display Rheostat for controlling the speed of the drum. I will say that the original design is more affordable and less complex, however I was looking for a project to learn how to program the Arduino at about the same time I started on the annealer, so I took the opportunity to use it to drive the annealer. The one nice part about the stepper motors is that you can control their exact speed ( rpms ) and know the exact rotation time and position, as well as control them with some descent precision. And I did sort out the annealing. I ended up buying some 425 degree Tempilaq also for the head of the case, and I have the exposure time down to about 6 seconds for 308 brass. I drop the brass right after hitting 750 degrees, and the head never hits 425 degrees. The LC 308 brass really doesn't give the "annealed" appearance, but I know the inside of the neck hit 750. It's also very apparent that it's been annealed once I started trimming it. This is fresh military brass ( machine gun fired ), and before annealing you could feel the hardness when trimming it. Even using a carbide tipped trimming blade, it was extremely hard to trim. After annealing the brass is peeling off instead of "chipping" when trimming it. If anyone else is interested in going down the path of using the Arduino to control it, let me know, I'd be more than happy to share the code that I wrote to drive it. Dean Thanks mate :) I've just started playing with the Arduino type controlers, also tinkering more with electronics etc. if your willing to share the code, might help me out with future projects. Anyway. Thanks for sharing and you have done a great ... nah, A fantastic build. Skip |
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All -- here's the code for the Arduino version of the annealer. https://github.com/djmurf/Annealer I used a framework called platformio to build and write to the Arduino, but I believe you can just drop the contents of the src folder into an empty folder and open with the Arduino code editor and it should build. If it doesn't, please let me know and I can fix that. I'll take some pics of the guts later on today and upload them for completeness, along with a better list of the arduino parts I used. One modification I think I'm going to make: When running 223/5.56 ( lighter brass ) through it, I had to speed it up to about 4 secs of exposure. At this speed, every once in a while I will have a shell jump when dropping from the ramp into the main drum, and it won't land perfectly. Since the drum is being controlled by a stepper, I can run it at X rpms, but when the shell drops and just before the next shell loads, I can drop the speed to a known reliable feed speed, allow the shell to drop and speed it back up to what it's dialed in at. I don't have any sensors that will tell me when a shell is dropping, but I do know the angle that the drum is at based on the position of the magnet and sensor, so this is very doable. If I do this, the code on github will be updated to include the changes, and I'll actually start commenting the code so it's more understandable!
Let me know if you guys have any questions, and I hope the code makes sense! Dean |
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Started building one of these today. I am going a totally different direction as far as materials, but the design is basically the same.
Got the front and sides cut out. The motors and electrical components are in. Hub for drum is built but not attached yet. I am trying to use up some motors that I had on hand. These are the only 2 that are even close to the right speed. Main Drum is a AC Brush using a router speed control to set "burn" time. My 24 DC case feeder is using a latched timer relay operating of a pulse from a micro switch triggered by the rotating drum. Motor(w/gearbox) turns at 2 RPM. I figure I need to put 8-10 case slots in the feeding drum. So far I have only bought the router speed control ($20) and the drum pan ($8). That might be all I need to buy except a small light bulb. I had all the rest from other odd and end projects. Wish me luck. |
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Originally Posted By snowshooter:
Started building one of these today. I am going a totally different direction as far as materials, but the design is basically the same. Got the front and sides cut out. The motors and electrical components are in. Hub for drum is built but not attached yet. I am trying to use up some motors that I had on hand. These are the only 2 that are even close to the right speed. Main Drum is a AC Brush using a router speed control to set "burn" time. My 24 DC case feeder is using a latched timer relay operating of a pulse from a micro switch triggered by the rotating drum. Motor(w/gearbox) turns at 2 RPM. I figure I need to put 8-10 case slots in the feeding drum. So far I have only bought the router speed control ($20) and the drum pan ($8). That might be all I need to buy except a small light bulb. I had all the rest from other odd and end projects. Wish me luck. Sounds good. Do you have any pictures to share? We'd like to see them when you have the time. |
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I found this thread in my search for an annealing machine and I am going to give making this machine a try. It looks fairly strait forward, but have some questions and hopefully some of the people that have made these are still following the thread. I started putting items in my cart on Ebay and realized there may be some options. So here are my questions:
1. Power Supply: The OP used a 12v 10amp 120w supply. Then later posters said it was OK to go with 12v 5amp 60w supply. I noticed that the motors draw very little power less than 1 amp, but the controllers use 4 amps each according to the specs of the item listed in the treads to use. Is it OK to use the smaller power supply of 5 amps 60 watt? 2. Hooking up the PS: Some power supplies only have one set of output terminals. Is it OK to connect both sets of controllers and motors to this one terminal? Is this the same answer if using the smaller PS of 5a 60w? 3. The motors used and recommended by the OP and later builders is unavailable. I guess the seller is on vacation until mid February. There are lots of motors available like the one suggested, but they are all either 20RPM or 30 RPM. I can't find a 25 RPM which is the rpm used by the builders. Is it OK to use one of these other motors and if so, which one would you suggest to buy? 4. Power button: Has anyone made one of these with a single on/off button for the motors with separate speed controls? If so, How was that done and with what configuration? Thanks all for any help you can provide. |
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I used a wall-wart 12VDC and 500mAh which is plenty good.
A power supply is overkill, but if you have a old PC supply use it to save cost. Get either motor, the RPM's you will be using will have to be reduced either way on the pan. Yes, to splitting the power feed. Switch power buy cutting the hot feed at the line side of the switch if you use a power switch. Not really needed IMO. |
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Apparently there is no search for individual threads and I can not find reference to the angle of the front of the annealer to cut. Can someone tell me the angle that they used successfully?
I am still waiting for some parts to come from China so have some time, but thought I would make the box for the annealer and get things laid out. Thanks guys! |
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Just something to google:
Annie Fluxeon Annealer I have a couple of these annealing threads in my subscriptions. I have even annealed cases by hand with propane and mapp. (I found that Oxy-acetylene is too hot.) I don't have the room for an automated tool and don't have time for the project, but thought that maybe I would get to it someday. Then someone mentioned this induction annealer in a how-to thread. That solves this problem for me. I didn't know something like that was on the market. I also found that Giraud makes an automated handler that interfaces with this annealer. I still don't have room to put the handler anywhere, but the annealing unit is compact enough to make me buy it on sight. Now I have to wait 2-3 weeks to get it. 
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Ignorance is not a point of view.
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Originally Posted By patrickk83:
Hello, everyone! Could someone please show a pic of the whole drive mechanism? I mean the motor with the shaft and the adapter used to fix the cake tin. It would be great to see the individual parts of it. Regards from Austria, Patrick This will give you some ideas on rates, angles, parts, and new equipment on the market that I bet many don't know exists: http://www.giraudtool.com/annealer1.htm The site has videos and they are on youtube as well. |
Ignorance is not a point of view.
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Originally Posted By patrickk83:
Hello, everyone! Could someone please show a pic of the whole drive mechanism? I mean the motor with the shaft and the adapter used to fix the cake tin. It would be great to see the individual parts of it. Regards from Austria, Patrick Patrick: There are some photos in the thread of how that motors mount to the back of the front panel, but no photos on coupling the motor to the cake pan or feeder. Here is what I plan to use along with an 8mm threaded rod cut to appropriate length. I don't know if this will work, but if I use a lock washer on the rod, on the back side of the pan/feeder, and then a washer and nut on the front side, it should be fairly easy to change out for different calibers. I could not find a motor coupler that was threaded on one side so I could just use a small threaded bolt, so I am going with this for now. The shaft of the motor I am using is 8mm and is the same one recommended by the OP. I bought two of these today on ebay for $10 US. http://www.ebay.com/itm/381444277596 . You can get them cheaper from china, but the shipping takes forever. Still waiting for parts ordered a month ago. 
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i have read the whole thread (over time and not at one sitting) and have a few questions.
-has anyone make it work with different calibers? -is there a case length limit (ie a machine built for 223 wouldn't work for 30-06 due to how much longer 30-06 is) -how easy/hard is to change from .223 to .300bo to .308 to 30-06? just thinking. I want to anneal my .300 bo cases since 90%+ have never been annealed. BUT if I have an annealing machine that is cheap to run I might just anneal more brass that I don't today (like all my match loads). have to tool, might as well use it. |
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Originally Posted By ws-6:
i have read the whole thread (over time and not at one sitting) and have a few questions. -has anyone make it work with different calibers? -is there a case length limit (ie a machine built for 223 wouldn't work for 30-06 due to how much longer 30-06 is) -how easy/hard is to change from .223 to .300bo to .308 to 30-06? just thinking. I want to anneal my .300 bo cases since 90%+ have never been annealed. BUT if I have an annealing machine that is cheap to run I might just anneal more brass that I don't today (like all my match loads). have to tool, might as well use it. Yeah, people do different calibers. I thought it was brought up here before. You just need to change out the pan and maybe the feed drum, depending on the caliber, and adjust the flame. ETA: Beat by a minute. Damn. |
| My plan is to make two pans and two feeders. I might be able to get away with one feeder if I just make it as long as needed for .338 Win Mag (largest I load for) and also work for .223. The issue with the pans I see is making sure the brass won't tip out and be unstable while still allowing the flame to hit the shoulder/neck junction. I will make one pan for the .223 up to .284 version and see how it works with my longer cases. I'll make another pan if it ends up being too short. For the feeder the issue is it grabbing more than one case if it is made for the wider cases. We'll see as I progress over the next month. |
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Originally Posted By ws-6:
i have read the whole thread (over time and not at one sitting) and have a few questions. -has anyone make it work with different calibers? -is there a case length limit (ie a machine built for 223 wouldn't work for 30-06 due to how much longer 30-06 is) -how easy/hard is to change from .223 to .300bo to .308 to 30-06? just thinking. I want to anneal my .300 bo cases since 90%+ have never been annealed. BUT if I have an annealing machine that is cheap to run I might just anneal more brass that I don't today (like all my match loads). have to tool, might as well use it. If you go back and read the thread again you will find that one machine will do multiple calibers. The easiest thing to do is make three pans different depths and that will take care of any rifle case you can imagine except for 50BMG, maybe. The feed drum need only one slot cut to a taper to accommodate the largest case you will use. I use two pans from 300AAC to 30-06. I can use my shortest pan to to the long cases also by sliding out the cartridge stop, but I already had two pans. 30-06 
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Some more questions:
-I know flashbang milled his own hub for the cake pan but what have most others used? I take it the feeder is bolted directly to the motor -for a cartage change, have a different pan for each one (all different depths) or make and use a space like someone else posted? flashbang, how much taller would you need yours to be to hold 250 223 cases? also where did you get the clamp for the case holder rod? |
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Originally Posted By ws-6:
i have read the whole thread (over time and not at one sitting) and have a few questions. -has anyone make it work with different calibers? ......... snip............... Yes. I thought I posted this already, but here it is again. This is how I change over from .223 to 6mm BR Norma brass. I just slip on this little shim onto the case stop rod to hold the shorter 6mm case further out from the back face of the pan. No need to switch pans. That would require making another pan and might take 10 minutes to change over. I don't even adjust the torch position. It takes 10 seconds to switch over using this little shim. The feed drum stays the same. I also do .308 brass, but that requires a 30 second adjustment of the torch position because of the longer case.  _DSC3380
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Originally Posted By WindSurgeon:
My plan is to make two pans and two feeders. ....... snip......... For the feeder the issue is it grabbing more than one case if it is made for the wider cases. We'll see as I progress over the next month. My feeder drum works for both .223 and .308 without any problems, but if I had to work with a wider range my first thought would be to make the drum to fit the larger case. Then I'd look for a piece of aluminum tubing with an OD to match the existing feed drum groove, or a piece of U channel if your groove is square rather than round. Then I'd cut a short length of the tubing, slice it roughly in half lengthwise, and screw it into the existing groove to reduce the size so that it wouldn't grab two of the smaller cases. That would be quicker than making two drums and the change-over would be quicker as well.. |
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Originally Posted By ws-6:
Some more questions: -I know flashbang milled his own hub for the cake pan but what have most others used? I take it the feeder is bolted directly to the motor -for a cartage change, have a different pan for each one (all different depths) or make and use a space like someone else posted? flashbang, how much taller would you need yours to be to hold 250 223 cases? also where did you get the clamp for the case holder rod? You gotta' read this thread from start to finish even though it's long. It will answer ALL your questions. I've said this before but I'll say it again. Look at ServoCity for nifty parts including hubs. https://www.servocity.com/ Link made hot. AeroE |
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This is a helpful thread, thanks for all the great ideas. Im going to use the proximity sensor since it makes it cleaner and almost cheaper since i dont need a seperate speed control, will just run straight power to the feed motor and switch it with a relay i have laying around.
Going to try this hub out since I dont have a lathe: http://www.ebay.com/itm/331342362821?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Also to make the wiring easier and cleaner I picked one of these up: http://www.ebay.com/itm/171866908094?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Its a quad copter power distribution board. these are rated for like 50 amps, so no worries there and ill just solder my power supply to it and then there is a nice easy way to run pos and neg to all the other stuff. These are small too, only a like 2" square and can just wood screw or glue to the back and cover with liquid electrical tape. I have used this one for my RC stuff and its easy to solder to. Will try and post pics when im done but time is scarce these days so who knows when ill get it done. Only parts im missing now are the adjustable blocks that hold like the torch holder and adjustable stopper rod. Any good source for these? I read through the whoole thread and didnt see a link. I guess I could hack saw and drill some AL but it wouldnt look so good. |
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Originally Posted By rotortuner:
This is a helpful thread, thanks for all the great ideas. Im going to use the proximity sensor since it makes it cleaner and almost cheaper since i dont need a seperate speed control, will just run straight power to the feed motor and switch it with a relay i have laying around. Going to try this hub out since I dont have a lathe: http://www.ebay.com/itm/331342362821?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Also to make the wiring easier and cleaner I picked one of these up: http://www.ebay.com/itm/171866908094?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Its a quad copter power distribution board. these are rated for like 50 amps, so no worries there and ill just solder my power supply to it and then there is a nice easy way to run pos and neg to all the other stuff. These are small too, only a like 2" square and can just wood screw or glue to the back and cover with liquid electrical tape. I have used this one for my RC stuff and its easy to solder to. Will try and post pics when im done but time is scarce these days so who knows when ill get it done. Only parts im missing now are the adjustable blocks that hold like the torch holder and adjustable stopper rod. Any good source for these? I read through the whoole thread and didnt see a link. I guess I could hack saw and drill some AL but it wouldnt look so good. This distribution board is cheaper when you factor in shipping. ETA: Even cheaper... |
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Originally Posted By Gage:
This distribution board is cheaper when you factor in shipping. ETA: Even cheaper... Originally Posted By Gage:
Originally Posted By rotortuner:
This is a helpful thread, thanks for all the great ideas. Im going to use the proximity sensor since it makes it cleaner and almost cheaper since i dont need a seperate speed control, will just run straight power to the feed motor and switch it with a relay i have laying around. Going to try this hub out since I dont have a lathe: http://www.ebay.com/itm/331342362821?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Also to make the wiring easier and cleaner I picked one of these up: http://www.ebay.com/itm/171866908094?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Its a quad copter power distribution board. these are rated for like 50 amps, so no worries there and ill just solder my power supply to it and then there is a nice easy way to run pos and neg to all the other stuff. These are small too, only a like 2" square and can just wood screw or glue to the back and cover with liquid electrical tape. I have used this one for my RC stuff and its easy to solder to. Will try and post pics when im done but time is scarce these days so who knows when ill get it done. Only parts im missing now are the adjustable blocks that hold like the torch holder and adjustable stopper rod. Any good source for these? I read through the whoole thread and didnt see a link. I guess I could hack saw and drill some AL but it wouldnt look so good. This distribution board is cheaper when you factor in shipping. ETA: Even cheaper... Ya i saw some cheaper ones but i dont think those are e packet delivery which means it can take like 3 weeks to a month.. so just watch for that, i try to stick to the e packet stuff over econo shipping. the distribution board should make this clean and easy to route power motorts, controller, switch etc. no splicing together wires. |
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Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the sensor?
I saw flashback and Mozilla posted descriptions on how to hook it up, but I can NOT for the life of me get mine to work. I want to double check that mine is hooked up correctly before I send it back. Thanks guys. |
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Originally Posted By drfroglegs:
Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the sensor? I saw flashback and Mozilla posted descriptions on how to hook it up, but I can NOT for the life of me get mine to work. I want to double check that mine is hooked up correctly before I send it back. Thanks guys. Here is the description of how I hooked mine up. Unless there is a piece of brass in front of the sensor the small feed motor will continue to turn giving the appearance the sensor is not working. "For the wiring of the sensor, mine had three wires; a black, blue and brown. There is a positive and negative from the speed control to the motor (the motor for the small feed drum) I cut both. The end of the positive from the speed controller goes to the black sensor wire. The other end which goes to the motor connects to the blue wire. Both ends of the split negative get hooked up to the brown." |
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Originally Posted By RLR350:
Here is the description of how I hooked mine up. Unless there is a piece of brass in front of the sensor the small feed motor will continue to turn giving the appearance the sensor is not working. "For the wiring of the sensor, mine had three wires; a black, blue and brown. There is a positive and negative from the speed control to the motor (the motor for the small feed drum) I cut both. The end of the positive from the speed controller goes to the black sensor wire. The other end which goes to the motor connects to the blue wire. Both ends of the split negative get hooked up to the brown." Originally Posted By RLR350:
Originally Posted By drfroglegs:
Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the sensor? I saw flashback and Mozilla posted descriptions on how to hook it up, but I can NOT for the life of me get mine to work. I want to double check that mine is hooked up correctly before I send it back. Thanks guys. Here is the description of how I hooked mine up. Unless there is a piece of brass in front of the sensor the small feed motor will continue to turn giving the appearance the sensor is not working. "For the wiring of the sensor, mine had three wires; a black, blue and brown. There is a positive and negative from the speed control to the motor (the motor for the small feed drum) I cut both. The end of the positive from the speed controller goes to the black sensor wire. The other end which goes to the motor connects to the blue wire. Both ends of the split negative get hooked up to the brown." I followed your explanation before but my sensor is still not working. When I have it hooked up the motor doesn't turn at all, no matter if there is a case near the sensor or not. The "split" terminology is throwing me off. Why did you cut the motor wire when it just screws into the controller? I connected the black wire to the +motor on the controller and the blue wire to the motor. The other wire from the motor I connected with the brown wire and both of those were connected to the -motor on the controller. Am I misinterpreting what you're saying? I brought the sensor to work with me and hope to have the electronic guys test it out to make sure it works. Flashbang stated that he connected the brown wire to the power supply. So I'm not sure how it's supposed to be hooked up now! Haha. Thanks for your help. |
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Drfroglegs,
Sounds like you have it hooked up right. I don't remember why I split/cut the wire. I think it was just easier to make the connection at that point rather then trying to get up to the controller. Your way is probably better and does the same thing. As far as I know hooking the negative of the sensor to a negative post on the power supply does the same thing as hooking it to the negative side of the motor. Good luck. Hopefully it's just a faulty sensor. On a side note I just put about a hundred 308 cases through mine yesterday and it worked without a flaw. The sensor is a great addition-no playing with the speed control anymore. |
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