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DIY Annealing Machine (Page 9 of 17)
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Originally Posted By RLR350:
Flashbang, Can you draw or describe how you wired the sensor to the existing motor/speed control? Thanks I can tell you how I wired mine, more or less. The sensor is simply a switch and the one I used is an "NC" (normally closed type). I cut the ground wire on the feed drum motor and connected one of the cut wires to one of the sensor wires and the other end to the second wire. That way, current flows through the drum feed motor as it previously did until a case comes to rest near the tip of the sensor. Then, the normally closed switch opens which interrupts the power to the motor (or "from" the motor, depending on how you think about electrons in a DC circuit) and it stops. When the case moves out of the way, the sensor closes the circuit again, the motor starts running, and delivers another case to the resting point when the sensor/switch opens again stopping the motor. Of course, since the sensor is an electronic device, it needs power of it's own, so you simply hook the third wire to one of the unused positive terminals of the power supply. Figuring out which of the three sensor wires to hook to where can be done by looking at the schematic printed on the sensor or by Google searching the manufacturing data or by looking at a YouTube video. Many of these things use identical color coded wires, so it shouldn't be much of a problem to figure it out. Unfortunately, I don't know enough about these three-wire position sensors to know if ALL of them use the same color coded wires. Anyhow, it was easy for me and I ain't too bright anymore, so I'm sure you can do it. I'd tell you exactly which colored wires to use, but after figuring it out I promptly dumped that data out of what's left of my mind. So if one of us has to dig for the information, I'd rather it be you rather than me. Don't worry, you can do it. |
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Originally Posted By RLR350:
Flashbang, Can you draw or describe how you wired the sensor to the existing motor/speed control? Thanks 
Operation in action. Can't embed video, link below. Little Blue Nasty video |
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I got the sensor in and hooked it up. Pretty simple and works great. Thanks to whoever had this idea, it is a great feature to add for only a few bucks.
For those of you building new ones if you use the sensor I don't see a need for the second speed controller. For the wiring of the sensor, mine had three wires; a black, blue and brown. There is a positive and negative from the speed control to the motor. I cut both. The end of the positive from the speed controller goes to the black sensor wire. The other end which goes to the motor connects to the blue wire. Both ends of the split negative get hooked up to the brown. Anyway - the tip is great and thanks again. |
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Flashbang1 or chevelledave does someone have a complete part list with links I'm thinking about building one I've got parts from reading several of the pages but not a complete list
Cake pans fro!m amazon Power supply, speed controller, motors, and display from eBay Where did ypou get the white plastic roller, Im assuming ypou used a router bit to cut the groove Torch tank extender from home depot Where did you get the torch holder Sensor from amazon or eBay is there a link? I saw some bushing peices but not sure where those were obtained The angle pieces for the trough were this fabricated or did ypou find them somewhere? Appreciate any other insight or assistance. Awesome thread guys very inspiring |
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Let's see what I can do here,
Torch holder, Torch Holder The angle, I bought from HD, and made it up, pretty easy. 2" x 1", I believe 1" to the unit. Roller, I bought mine from Grainger, and rigged a deal up on My table saw, not recommended. I bet RLR will set in here, He did the router thing. What I got right now, Ebay is being weird, won't let Me into My purchase history. |
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Originally Posted By ChevelleDave:
Let's see what I can do here, Torch holder, Torch Holder The angle, I bought from HD, and made it up, pretty easy. 2" x 1", I believe 1" to the unit. Roller, I bought mine from Grainger, and rigged a deal up on My table saw, not recommended. I bet RLR will set in here, He did the router thing. What I got right now, Ebay is being weird, won't let Me into My purchase history. I used a router table for the groove in the plastic drum. I used two pieces of 1 x 2 wood for a jig, one screws to each side of the plastic. Basically, the plastic is sandwiched between the two boards which provides a flat base for the router table. Set up the router with a 1/4 inch dado bit. Set the approximate depth and set the fence to cut down the approximate middle of the drum. Run the jigged up plastic through with one board against the fence. Flip it around and run it through with the opposite board up against the fence. This will give you a centered groove. Adjust the depth and fence/width to where you want and make the two final passes. The more difficult part is drilling the center hole for the arbor shaft. A lathe would be best, but it can be done on a drill press. The drum will go on the arbor with a pressure fit if the right size drill bit is used for the hole. I added two set screws in the bottom of the slot I cut (described above) just to anchor it on. |
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Originally Posted By ChevelleDave:
I got My sensor in the mail the other day, can't wait to get it installed. RLR, that helps alot, Thanks. You're welcome. Since I just did it I'll add the process I used for installation. Down the road someone will ask and I will not remember, so I'll put it here before I forget and move on to some other project: Set the smallest diameter case on the ramp against the pan as if it is waiting to drop in. Trace the circle around the rim on to the face plate as a reference for the hole through the face of the annealer Find the approximate center of the traced hole. Drill a small pilot hole through the face plate and back plate. (Keeps the 1/2" bit in the next step from wandering) Enlarge the hole to 1/2" (or the diameter of the sensor) Remove annealer face plate. Recess the 1/2" hole on the back plate with a 7/8" spade bit deep enough to recess the nut on the sensor. (Otherwise the nut will interfere with the face plate.) Install the sensor, set depth to approximately flush with the face of the annealer. Reinstall face plate, adjust depth of the sensor, tighten. 
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Originally Posted By RLR350:
I got the sensor in and hooked it up. Pretty simple and works great. Thanks to whoever had this idea, it is a great feature to add for only a few bucks. For those of you building new ones if you use the sensor I don't see a need for the second speed controller. For the wiring of the sensor, mine had three wires; a black, blue and brown. There is a positive and negative from the speed control to the motor. I cut both. The end of the positive from the speed controller goes to the black sensor wire. The other end which goes to the motor connects to the blue wire. Both ends of the split negative get hooked up to the brown. Anyway - the tip is great and thanks again. Right, however a switch is real handy when in use. |
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Originally Posted By Flashbang1:
Right, however a switch is real handy when in use. Originally Posted By Flashbang1:
Originally Posted By RLR350:
I got the sensor in and hooked it up. Pretty simple and works great. Thanks to whoever had this idea, it is a great feature to add for only a few bucks. For those of you building new ones if you use the sensor I don't see a need for the second speed controller. For the wiring of the sensor, mine had three wires; a black, blue and brown. There is a positive and negative from the speed control to the motor. I cut both. The end of the positive from the speed controller goes to the black sensor wire. The other end which goes to the motor connects to the blue wire. Both ends of the split negative get hooked up to the brown. Anyway - the tip is great and thanks again. Right, however a switch is real handy when in use. Agreed. |
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Gentlemen, you are doing a bang up job perfecting this little gem! the proximity sensor is a wonderful idea.........makes me wish I had ordered two of them!
Revisiting my Hornady bullet-feeder project a few months ago, I replaced the buggy and less than perfect micro-switch with one of those gems and it made the turn-off-the-collator, when the tubes are full....full....proof! 
I've not built one of these annealers yet.....I fully intended to last winter. Part of the problem was making up my mind whether to buy cake pans or use the "saw blade" I already bought for the "other" popular style of annealer.....the longer I wait and the more you guys perfect this, the more I'm leaning towards this cake pan invention made popular by our favorite techno sharing Aussie! I don't have to buy two torches either. The biggest plus I saw before, is the zero need for a collator for to drop brass into the system.......now this proximity switch seals it for me. No need now to sync motors! Really great job guys.................................now what do I do with the saw blade I bought!!! The biggest problem???? Wading back through this humongous thread to find all the best gems of technique and knowledge to use! Carry on and thanks! |
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Originally Posted By GWhis:
Gentlemen, you are doing a bang up job perfecting this little gem! the proximity sensor is a wonderful idea.........makes me wish I had ordered two of them! Revisiting my Hornady bullet-feeder project a few months ago, I replaced the buggy and less than perfect micro-switch with one of those gems and it made the turn-off-the-collator, when the tubes are full....full....proof!
I've not built one of these annealers yet.....I fully intended to last winter. Part of the problem was making up my mind whether to buy cake pans or use the "saw blade" I already bought for the "other" popular style of annealer.....the longer I wait and the more you guys perfect this, the more I'm leaning towards this cake pan invention made popular by our favorite techno sharing Aussie! I don't have to buy two torches either. The biggest plus I saw before, is the zero need for a collator for to drop brass into the system.......now this proximity switch seals it for me. No need now to sync motors! Really great job guys.................................now what do I do with the saw blade I bought!!! The biggest problem???? Wading back through this humongous thread to find all the best gems of technique and knowledge to use! Carry on and thanks! Having built both the blade type using a Lee collater and this one, this one is much more simple and seems to have less flaws - it's not as temperamental. Although the other one is certainly fun to watch, this one works better. I think it is cheaper and easier to make, also. |
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I think this one is easier to operate also. Just dump brass in the hopper, and let it work.
With the blade type, you either have to feed cases, or buy/adapt/make a case feeder. I just put in a order for the sensor and torch holder. I need to get going on this project. Reloading season is coming up. |
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Originally Posted By Hitman9921:
Flashbang1 or chevelledave does someone have a complete part list with links I'm thinking about building one I've got parts from reading several of the pages but not a complete list<snip> Appreciate any other insight or assistance. Awesome thread guys very inspiring Amazon Unique Goods - 6V/12V/24V/30V Digital Display LED DC Motor Speed Controller PWM Stepless Speed Control Switch HHO RC Regulator- Black CCM5D $12.69 Fat Daddio's Anodized Aluminum Round Cake Pan, 5-Inch x 3-Inch $6.78 DSHL supply Generic High Torque 12V DC 25 RPM Gear-Box Stabilivolt Electric Motor Replacement $8.98 ea. 2 for $17.96 free shipping. Received in 8 calendar days from China, which included a Holiday. Not bad. Mcmaster-Carr 3261K93 Temperature Indicating Liquid, 750 Degrees Each $17.10 8572K27 White Delrin (R) Acetal Resin Rod, 1-3/4" Diameter, 1' Length 1 Foot Per Foot $13.77 30565A305 Metric Black&gold Oxide High-Speed-Steel Jobbers Drill Bit, 8.0MM, 114MM Oal, 79.8MM Drill Depth, 135 Degree Point Each $5.19 Everthing else was from local stores Homedepot angle 2 x 2 x 1/16 aluminum which I cut down on the screw side to 1/2 inch and hand bent. 3/4 plywood 1/4 inch low carbon steel rod (hand bent). Lexan Stainless screws, nuts and washers Carriage bolt for torch bracket Aluminum spacers/stand offs for pan motor mount and cooling fan mount Paint Torch Torch extension and fittings Radio shack 3.5 mm female M socket panel mount power jack Ebay LJ12A3-4-Z/AX NC 4mm Normally Closed Tubular Inductive Proximity Sensor Switch Lowes Propane tank holders Propane bottles Desk wire grommet for torch hose hole Rough face is 12 x12 inches. Sides are 4.5 inches wide on top, 7.5 inches on bottom which gives a optimum tilt angle of 14 degrees. Floor is flush in front, no need to extend like some builds. Things I had on hand Aluminum round stock for coupling and bushing Aluminum flat stock for torch L bracket Aluminum square stock for torch holder and stop rod heatsink PC DC cooling fan Wire and quick disconnect plugs Solder Shrink tubing/tape 500mAh Walwart that powers the annealer I made the coupling, bushing, hub, adapter plate, torch holder and bracket on my lathe and mill so those are one of a kind items. The feeder drum was also made on the lathe and mill but can be done other ways as noted in the other posts. I did make my feeder drum with only one slot and one set screw. It is tapered wider to the rear to accept a 30-06 case and family of that diameter. This allows me to run .223 and family up to 30-06 and family of those diameters without any changes, adjustments or modifications to the drum. I'm sure I left out some items and I will edit when time allows. I would make a complete list of what I used, sizes and dimensions, but it would not help much with the custom one off items I made no one would be able to get. My version is a the slim down nasty rendition of the original design. It is not as tall or as wide and does not sport a front bottom shelf. It holds 210 cases of .223/5.56mm which is good enough for me. You can go as big as you wish. **Few things I discovered that improved on the design that you may consider. If using a inductive proximity sensor switch you can delete the Digital Display LED DC Motor Speed Controller PWM Stepless Speed Control Switch HHO RC Regulator on the feeder motor. I would however use only a switch for the motor. The riser board does not have to be square and go below the right side of the case hopper. It also can be made with 1/2 thick material instead of 3/4 if you wish to keep it light. 
New version and color running 300BLK with adapter plate installed on pan hub. 
I installed lexan over the riser board for a clean smooth look. As a added unforseen benifit it also allows the cases to not contact the proximity sensor. The feed tray is set below the inductive proximity switch sensor to leave about a 1/16th of a inch lip for the cases to rest on. The inductive proximity sensor switch is back set about 1/8th of an inch from the lexan. Probably wouldn't make any difference if the cases touched the switch anyway, but I feel it's best not to if possible. 
I did not recess the sensor switch into the front board. I counterboared the back of the riser board enough just to clear the distance the nut and washer petrudes. Close up. 
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I've mentioned this before, but it's worth saying again.
Look here for hardware: https://www.servocity.com/html/0_770__set_screw_hubs.html#.VjXXfytiqMe They sell all sorts of hubs, couplers, bearings, small fasteners, etc. by ones and twos. And they have metric sizes to fit the metric shaft size of the most common motor we use for our "Skip" design annealers. For those, like me, who have a cheap bench top drill press (or access to one) but who don't have a lathe, these little parts are great. For example, with a set of Forstner bits and a small drill press, you counter bore a piece of Acetyl rod stock to make a very nice feed drum using one of the Servo City hubs. The hubs work great for the annealing pan too. Bottom line: No need for a lathe if you use this kind of specialty hardware. The cost is reasonable and shipping is quick. |
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Originally Posted By RogerRonas:
any need for a fuse in this? If so where should it go and what size? Gathering my parts to put one together. Thanks Roger ALWAYS install a fuse. It goes between the "hot" side of the AC line in and the rest of the system (like right after the cord comes into the box). Add up the maximum current everything in the box could possibly use (in normal operation), add 15% and find the fuse that's as close to that value as possible. It probably won't be a high value, and you could get away with a 10A fuse just fine. |
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ALWAYS install a fuse. It goes between the "hot" side of the AC line in and the rest of the system (like right after the cord comes into the box). Add up the maximum current everything in the box could possibly use (in normal operation), add 15% and find the fuse that's as close to that value as possible. It probably won't be a high value, and you could get away with a 10A fuse just fine. Thank you just the info I was looking for. Is 10amp to high of a value for this setup? I believe this machine rubs at about 2amps?, So could I get a 3-5amp fuse? I don't know anything about rating fuses. Roger |
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How high to fuse the box is really a matter of exactly what parts you used. As I described earlier, the "right" fuse rating should be about 15% higher than the total current all the parts can possibly pull. That may be hard to figure, though, since not all the parts will necessarily have all the tech data with them. So if you add up everything you have data for, you can kinda SWAG how much the other stuff might pull by what it is.
Remember, only "active" devices will pull current, like the circuit board, motors, etc. So if you have two motors that can each pull 900mA, the power supply's own rating is 5A, and the display and circuit board lack any data, you'd have 7.8A known (motors and power supply) current draw. Add a bit for the logic and display and you come up with 8+A max. Add 15% and that's 9.2+A, which you round up to 10A. All of these are example numbers I pulled out of thin air, but that's how it works. And to be honest, the power supply is going to have the biggest role in determining how much current you should fuse the thing for. Depending on which power supply you use, such as a recycled computer power supply or a stand-alone commercial power supply, you may have a fuse already in place. Look on the circuit board of a computer power supply - most have a small glass cartridge fuse like this one in a mount on the board. 
Today's computer power supplies are really well made, and they should be built to last. For example, a Thermaltake 500W ATX power supply pulls a max of 8A, so as I said, a 10 A fuse on the power input should be adequate. |
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Thank You
Roger |
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How about a 1/4" FNPT mini ball valve with screw mount? I want to put between bottle and head and be able to mount to side of case. I have found the panel mounts (expensive) but I want to keep it all on the exterior.
Thanks for all the help. I can do this. Roger |
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Originally Posted By RogerRonas:
Ok, I went to Home Depot looking for the 1 lb propane tank mount that someone posted about. They claim they don't know anything about it. Can someone post a link or sku number and where to find it? Thanks Roger This might work. ETA: Damn. Beat by a few people. |
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Yea Thanks Gage, But amazon is 2x the price of Blowes.
Roger Originally Posted By Gage:
Originally Posted By RogerRonas:
Ok, I went to Home Depot looking for the 1 lb propane tank mount that someone posted about. They claim they don't know anything about it. Can someone post a link or sku number and where to find it? Thanks Roger This might work. ETA: Damn. Beat by a few people. |
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I think I am also going to put a power receptacle on this that will accept power leads from a car battery. So if I am remote from electricty, I can run off of vehicle.
I would hook up after the power supply ( going into the controllers). What is the thoughts on this? Roger |
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yes, I am doing the Proximity sensor too.
Ordering parts in the next week and getting a metal enclosure box custom made for this annealer. Hope to assemble in January. Love this thread, Thanks to everyone in it. Roger Originally Posted By ChevelleDave:
I guess if You are ever going to be offgrid, it would be nice, it would be easy to do. I would highly recommend the sensor. It will make it much easier to operate. I need to get Mine down, and do the mod still. |
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Camp stove propane tanks have the same fitting as torch propane tanks. Grill propane tanks have a different fitting and would require an adapter.
Target has a 2-pack of Coleman 16.4oz tanks for (stupidly cheap) less than $6. Hope that helps. |
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I've been reading this thread with great interest. I love some of the builds folks have come up with, and have ordered some parts to start on mine.Some questions I have:
1: Why 5" for the pan case rotator? Could this be 2" or 3" in diameter to save alot of real estate? If the pan needs to act as a heat sink maybe it could be thicker but smaller diameter? 2: I have an idea for an annealed brass collector -- rather than a tray or pan at the bottom I'm thinking I'll mount a section of 4" dust collector pipe (about 12" should do it) with a closed blast gate at the bottom. I've got a concept for a quick disconnect attachment for this at the top so when full I can disconnect it and hold it over my tumbler, open the gate and dump all the brass in. 3: Has anyone tried using a cheap pyrometer to measure neck temp with a readout? 4: Now that folks have been using these for awhile what improvments have you thought of? Or is it pretty near perfect? |
| A cheap pyrometer probably won't be sensitive enough and accurate enough to replace Tempilaq for gauging when the case has gotten hot enough. For monitoring performance, maybe, but not for setup. |
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Originally Posted By Sir:
I've been reading this thread with great interest. I love some of the builds folks have come up with, and have ordered some parts to start on mine.Some questions I have: 1: Why 5" for the pan case rotator? Could this be 2" or 3" in diameter to save alot of real estate? If the pan needs to act as a heat sink maybe it could be thicker but smaller diameter? I think a smaller pan would work fine. RPM would have to be set accordingly as well as the feed ramp. 2: I have an idea for an annealed brass collector -- rather than a tray or pan at the bottom I'm thinking I'll mount a section of 4" dust collector pipe (about 12" should do it) with a closed blast gate at the bottom. I've got a concept for a quick disconnect attachment for this at the top so when full I can disconnect it and hold it over my tumbler, open the gate and dump all the brass in. Whatever works for you, but seems counterproductive if your trying to save real estate. 3: Has anyone tried using a cheap pyrometer to measure neck temp with a readout? Yes, and its no substitute for Tempilac 4: Now that folks have been using these for awhile what improvments have you thought of? Or is it pretty near perfect? All improvments I've made along and after the build I'm happy with and wouldn't change a thing as its as perfect as I belive it can be now. |
Say what you want but I need help. I cannot get the daddy'o pans centered correctly. I'm going to loose my mind 
So tell me how to do this the easy way. |
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Originally Posted By DucksmasherRichard:
Say what you want but I need help. I cannot get the daddy'o pans centered correctly. I'm going to loose my mind
So tell me how to do this the easy way. On mine what I did was, Trace around the pan with a pencil onto a piece of paper. Cut the paper circle out. Fold it into half and then half again so it looks like a quarter of the circle. Next I just snipped a SMALL corner off the point. Open it up and lay on pan to mark center. The pan turns real slow and if it is close it will work. HTH Roger |
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Originally Posted By RogerRonas: On mine what I did was, Trace around the pan with a pencil onto a piece of paper. Cut the paper circle out. Fold it into half and then half again so it looks like a quarter of the circle. Next I just snipped a SMALL corner off the point. Open it up and lay on pan to mark center. The pan turns real slow and if it is close it will work. HTH Roger Originally Posted By RogerRonas: Originally Posted By DucksmasherRichard: Say what you want but I need help. I cannot get the daddy'o pans centered correctly. I'm going to loose my mind So tell me how to do this the easy way. On mine what I did was, Trace around the pan with a pencil onto a piece of paper. Cut the paper circle out. Fold it into half and then half again so it looks like a quarter of the circle. Next I just snipped a SMALL corner off the point. Open it up and lay on pan to mark center. The pan turns real slow and if it is close it will work. HTH Roger Nice, I'm going to have to remember that one.  |
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Originally Posted By RogerRonas:
On mine what I did was, Trace around the pan with a pencil onto a piece of paper. Cut the paper circle out. Fold it into half and then half again so it looks like a quarter of the circle. Next I just snipped a SMALL corner off the point. Open it up and lay on pan to mark center. The pan turns real slow and if it is close it will work. HTH Roger Originally Posted By RogerRonas:
Originally Posted By DucksmasherRichard:
Say what you want but I need help. I cannot get the daddy'o pans centered correctly. I'm going to loose my mind
So tell me how to do this the easy way. On mine what I did was, Trace around the pan with a pencil onto a piece of paper. Cut the paper circle out. Fold it into half and then half again so it looks like a quarter of the circle. Next I just snipped a SMALL corner off the point. Open it up and lay on pan to mark center. The pan turns real slow and if it is close it will work. HTH Roger Great idea. I will try that on new pans Thank you |
“Socialism only works in two places: Heaven where they don't need it and hell where they already have it.." - Ronald Reagan
Of all the things you lost it's your mind you miss the most
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Originally Posted By Sir:
I've been reading this thread with great interest. I love some of the builds folks have come up with, and have ordered some parts to start on mine.Some questions I have: 1: Why 5" for the pan case rotator? Could this be 2" or 3" in diameter to save alot of real estate? If the pan needs to act as a heat sink maybe it could be thicker but smaller diameter? 2: I have an idea for an annealed brass collector -- rather than a tray or pan at the bottom I'm thinking I'll mount a section of 4" dust collector pipe (about 12" should do it) with a closed blast gate at the bottom. I've got a concept for a quick disconnect attachment for this at the top so when full I can disconnect it and hold it over my tumbler, open the gate and dump all the brass in. 3: Has anyone tried using a cheap pyrometer to measure neck temp with a readout? 4: Now that folks have been using these for awhile what improvments have you thought of? Or is it pretty near perfect? Typical brass is in the pan for a short period of time and you want it to rotate many times to get even annealing. So a very small annealing pan can be slowed down to the the proper time-in-flame, but you would sacrifice a great number of rotations and I don't think that would be wise. The actual reduction in overall size would only be about 1.5" anyway. I like a catch pan because once in a while I'll spot a damaged case or once in a very great while a case might bounce out of the pan. And if you don't use the proximity switch, the feed can get out of sync and produce a double feed; i.e. two cases in the pan at one time. It's convenient to be able to watch the brass dump out of the pan and be able to grab it so you can discard or re-anneal any which aren't normal. Templac works just fine to fine tune neck temperature and, with the Skip design anyway, once you have the speed set properly, it's no longer necessary to measure the temperature. Plus, I'm not sure a pyrometer would be a good way to measure the actual neck temperature because flame temperature is not the same as neck temperature; not by a long shot. You'd have to calibrate a pyrometer using Templac anyway, so why bother? My particular unit made with thin plywood is light weight. The adjustable hubs are nice. The round counter is more handy than I initially thought and the proximity switch addition is very nice. The simple slip-on wedge to switch from .223 to 6mm BR Norma takes 10 seconds, so that's nice. And switching to .308 requires only moving the torch head out by a little bit, a two minute job. I'd say mine is as close to perfect as it could be and it's WAY better than most commercial units. |
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Originally Posted By DucksmasherRichard:
Say what you want but I need help. I cannot get the daddy'o pans centered correctly. I'm going to loose my mind
So tell me how to do this the easy way. I don't remember where i got this from but it works well and is easy Demonstration applet, Run or Next are at the bottom left of the page some screen setting they end up hidden by tool bars/frames etc http://www.mathopenref.com/common/constappletframe.html?applet=constcirclecenter2&wid=600&ht=400 |
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Originally Posted By Mozella:
Typical brass is in the pan for a short period of time and you want it to rotate many times to get even annealing. So a very small annealing pan can be slowed down to the the proper time-in-flame, but you would sacrifice a great number of rotations and I don't think that would be wise. The actual reduction in overall size would only be about 1.5" anyway. I like a catch pan because once in a while I'll spot a damaged case or once in a very great while a case might bounce out of the pan. And if you don't use the proximity switch, the feed can get out of sync and produce a double feed; i.e. two cases in the pan at one time. It's convenient to be able to watch the brass dump out of the pan and be able to grab it so you can discard or re-anneal any which aren't normal. Templac works just fine to fine tune neck temperature and, with the Skip design anyway, once you have the speed set properly, it's no longer necessary to measure the temperature. Plus, I'm not sure a pyrometer would be a good way to measure the actual neck temperature because flame temperature is not the same as neck temperature; not by a long shot. You'd have to calibrate a pyrometer using Templac anyway, so why bother? My particular unit made with thin plywood is light weight. The adjustable hubs are nice. The round counter is more handy than I initially thought and the proximity switch addition is very nice. The simple slip-on wedge to switch from .223 to 6mm BR Norma takes 10 seconds, so that's nice. And switching to .308 requires only moving the torch head out by a little bit, a two minute job. I'd say mine is as close to perfect as it could be and it's WAY better than most commercial units. Originally Posted By Mozella:
Originally Posted By Sir:
I've been reading this thread with great interest. I love some of the builds folks have come up with, and have ordered some parts to start on mine.Some questions I have: 1: Why 5" for the pan case rotator? Could this be 2" or 3" in diameter to save alot of real estate? If the pan needs to act as a heat sink maybe it could be thicker but smaller diameter? 2: I have an idea for an annealed brass collector -- rather than a tray or pan at the bottom I'm thinking I'll mount a section of 4" dust collector pipe (about 12" should do it) with a closed blast gate at the bottom. I've got a concept for a quick disconnect attachment for this at the top so when full I can disconnect it and hold it over my tumbler, open the gate and dump all the brass in. 3: Has anyone tried using a cheap pyrometer to measure neck temp with a readout? 4: Now that folks have been using these for awhile what improvments have you thought of? Or is it pretty near perfect? Typical brass is in the pan for a short period of time and you want it to rotate many times to get even annealing. So a very small annealing pan can be slowed down to the the proper time-in-flame, but you would sacrifice a great number of rotations and I don't think that would be wise. The actual reduction in overall size would only be about 1.5" anyway. I like a catch pan because once in a while I'll spot a damaged case or once in a very great while a case might bounce out of the pan. And if you don't use the proximity switch, the feed can get out of sync and produce a double feed; i.e. two cases in the pan at one time. It's convenient to be able to watch the brass dump out of the pan and be able to grab it so you can discard or re-anneal any which aren't normal. Templac works just fine to fine tune neck temperature and, with the Skip design anyway, once you have the speed set properly, it's no longer necessary to measure the temperature. Plus, I'm not sure a pyrometer would be a good way to measure the actual neck temperature because flame temperature is not the same as neck temperature; not by a long shot. You'd have to calibrate a pyrometer using Templac anyway, so why bother? My particular unit made with thin plywood is light weight. The adjustable hubs are nice. The round counter is more handy than I initially thought and the proximity switch addition is very nice. The simple slip-on wedge to switch from .223 to 6mm BR Norma takes 10 seconds, so that's nice. And switching to .308 requires only moving the torch head out by a little bit, a two minute job. I'd say mine is as close to perfect as it could be and it's WAY better than most commercial units. In this post you mention a round counter. Did I miss that feature in this thread? Can you provide info please? thanks Roger |
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Another way to find the center of a circle... Get a compass (the kind that draws circles, not the kind for use with a map..) set it for the length of a radius (1/2 the diameter) draw an arc with the center point at one edge of the circle. then draw another arc from the other side of the circle. Where the arcs intersect is the center. To rule out error from where you placed the tip, and not being on the actual edge, draw a third arc, and use the center of the triangle formed by the arcs. (idealy they'd all intersect in the same place, but may be off a bit this way or that based on how closely you are to the edge. |
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Originally Posted By chrisben:
Another way to find the center of a circle...Get a compass (the kind that draws circles, not the kind for use with a map..) set it for the length of a radius (1/2 the diameter) draw an arc with the center point at one edge of the circle. then draw another arc from the other side of the circle. Where the arcs intersect is the center. To rule out error from where you placed the tip, and not being on the actual edge, draw a third arc, and use the center of the triangle formed by the arcs. (idealy they'd all intersect in the same place, but may be off a bit this way or that based on how closely you are to the edge. An old drafting trick  , works perfectly.
Vince |
USAF 1969-73
Norton AFB 1969-71, 63rd Military Airlift Wing
Cam Ranh Bay RVN 1971-72, 483d Tactical Airlift Wing
Dyess AFB 1972-73
Norton AFB 1969-71, 63rd Military Airlift Wing
Cam Ranh Bay RVN 1971-72, 483d Tactical Airlift Wing
Dyess AFB 1972-73
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All -- I'm in the process of building this annealer, and was able to pick up 2x2 aluminum angle iron. I need to cut one side down to a 1/2" to fit the annealer... What should I use to cut this? I have a table saw, and a cheap carbide tipped blade, but I'm seeing mixed comments out there on using it to cut aluminum. How did you guys cut it? I really didn't want to drop 50 bucks on a special blade for this one cut... Any suggestions? Thanks! |
DIY Annealing Machine (Page 9 of 17)
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