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Posted: 6/28/2016 10:41:44 PM EDT
I've read through previous threads here on the topic including these:
https://www.ar15.com/archive/topic.html?b=6&f=21&t=236445 https://www.ar15.com/archive/topic.html?b=6&f=21&t=338141 Anyone ever actually go through with it? Since 41F is upon us, I'm strongly considering efiling a Form 1 for a Molotov Cocktail. My plan is as follows: 1) The bottle would be a standard 750ml glass water bottle like this: 2) I would engrave a metal band that would be attached to the top of the neck of the bottle. It would be attached in such a way that it would not be removable without breaking the bottle. Engraving the cap would mean that it could be re-used which I'm sure would be a no-go with BATFE. 3) The igniter would be two sparklers taped to the bottle. 4) The filling would be gasoline gelled with Napalm powder as per the following patent: http://www.google.com/patents/US2684339 The gelling powder could be added to the bottle but the gasoline would only be added just before use. In this way, there would be no storage issues as the bottle would be inert. Thoughts? |
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I don't see any issues with your plan, it would be like the binary form one grenades out there. I'd suggest storm matches in place of the sparklers, that's what the Finns used... really long storm matches.
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Dude in Texas is all about DD's, including Molotovs. He's done a few. Texas Machine Gun and Ordnance I think.
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I knew TXMGO did "claymores" and pipe bombs, I didn't know he did some molotovs too. It doesn't surprise me though!
They're sure putting the 10/02 FFL/SOT and 20 FEL to good use. |
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I don't see any issues with your plan, it would be like the binary form one grenades out there. I'd suggest storm matches in place of the sparklers, that's what the Finns used... really long storm matches. View Quote If you're going to spend the money on a stamp, might as well make it flameless. Sugar and potassium chlorate on the outside with sulfuric acid catalyst in the bottle. |
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I've read the same TM, it should have had a long term storage warning. Don't do that if you plan to store it for any real length of time, or might drop it, or...
It's safer to go the original, tried-and-true route of the storm matches or the more modern sparkler idea. |
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Why do you need a form 1 for this?
Is gasoline considered an explosive? Its gas, a old rag and an empty wine bottle. You can have all 3 components right next to each other in your garage and there is literally nothing the ATF or anyone can do about it. There is a reason why these are very popular in third world and oppressed nations. There is no way to regulate or restrict the components its made of. Youre basically paying $200 to brag to your friends and people on here that you have a tax stamp for a Molotov cochtail |
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You need a F1 because the ATF specifically defines molotovs as DDs. The moment you combine them for use, bingo, it's covered under the NFA. Stupid, but it's the reality.
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I've read the same TM, it should have had a long term storage warning. Don't do that if you plan to store it for any real length of time, or might drop it, or... It's safer to go the original, tried-and-true route of the storm matches or the more modern sparkler idea. View Quote Or don't fill before use, and store the "label" in a separate location. |
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Don't call it a Molotov cocktail then View Quote Exactly. I can remember lighting Bon fires this way back in the day as a teenager. Little gas in a glass bottle, light a rag and toss at a pile of wood. Then grab marshmallows and hot dogs. The fact that this is considered a DD is ridiculous |
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Funny story about molotov cocktails.
During the riots in the 60s it wasn't uncommon to attack the firefighters. A fire truck was returning from a false alarm and one of the hoot rats ran out to throw a molotov at them. The rag stuffed in the bottle was kind of long and he stepped on it when he tried to throw it. Which, of course, pulled it out and and allowed the gasoline to spill out on to him and ignite when it hit the flaming rag. The firemen gave him a hearty 'Fuck You' and returned to the firehouse. No citation, my uncle was a Fire Chief and sadly, he's long gone. |
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I don't see any issues with your plan, it would be like the binary form one grenades out there. I'd suggest storm matches in place of the sparklers, that's what the Finns used... really long storm matches. View Quote Good, I'll make that change. Maybe I'll list both so they can both be theoretically used? |
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I've read the same TM, it should have had a long term storage warning. Don't do that if you plan to store it for any real length of time, or might drop it, or... It's safer to go the original, tried-and-true route of the storm matches or the more modern sparkler idea. View Quote Yeah, though I do understand the chemistry behind the sulfuric acid + Potassium Chlorate + sugar mix. Also, sulfuric acid + gas mix isn't stable indefinitely. I like the idea of the matches or sparklers instead. |
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Why do you need a form 1 for this? Is gasoline considered an explosive? Its gas, a old rag and an empty wine bottle. You can have all 3 components right next to each other in your garage and there is literally nothing the ATF or anyone can do about it. There is a reason why these are very popular in third world and oppressed nations. There is no way to regulate or restrict the components its made of. Youre basically paying $200 to brag to your friends and people on here that you have a tax stamp for a Molotov cochtail View Quote Not brag, but teach. If I try posting a full tutorial here without an approved Form 1, the thread will be quickly locked and trashed. A Form 1 makes it completely legitimate to discuss in detail. |
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Yeah, though I do understand the chemistry behind the sulfuric acid + Potassium Chlorate + sugar mix. Also, sulfuric acid + gas mix isn't stable indefinitely. I like the idea of the matches or sparklers instead. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I've read the same TM, it should have had a long term storage warning. Don't do that if you plan to store it for any real length of time, or might drop it, or... It's safer to go the original, tried-and-true route of the storm matches or the more modern sparkler idea. Yeah, though I do understand the chemistry behind the sulfuric acid + Potassium Chlorate + sugar mix. Also, sulfuric acid + gas mix isn't stable indefinitely. I like the idea of the matches or sparklers instead. Exactly why I said the TM should have had a storage warning. Oh, well. In any case, the storm matches are available from REI, Amazon, and if you shop in Maine, Kittery Trading Post had them years ago. I like the UCO "Titan" brand. They're about 4" long, they burn for at least 15 seconds, and you're not putting them out prematurely. |
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Just write an "ignition source" label for a line on either side of the bottle in your photo/drawing design when you submit the F1. Or submit this photo and note you'd be leaving it unfilled while stored, for safety reasons: https://i.imgur.com/ZTNeaG2.jpg Quoting that website: View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I don't see any issues with your plan, it would be like the binary form one grenades out there. I'd suggest storm matches in place of the sparklers, that's what the Finns used... really long storm matches. Good, I'll make that change. Maybe I'll list both so they can both be theoretically used? Just write an "ignition source" label for a line on either side of the bottle in your photo/drawing design when you submit the F1. Or submit this photo and note you'd be leaving it unfilled while stored, for safety reasons: https://i.imgur.com/ZTNeaG2.jpg Quoting that website: http://www.jaegerplatoon.net
During spring of 1937 Kuittinen with help of his friend merchant Väinö Hannula and three 2nd Lieutenants started developing new version based to the petrol bombs reportedly used in Spanish Civil War. The first version they tested was simple bottle filled with petrol and piece of cotton waste tied into it, but this proved less than ideal. The main problems of this simple petrol bomb were: *The liquid (just petrol) did not stick to target, but flowed away too easily. *Burning cotton waste made person throwing the bottle highly visible and therefore too very easy to spot. Adding pine tar to mix (about 10 - 20 cl for each half-litre bottle) proved good solution to first problem, since it not only made mix to stick target, but also created more smoke. Additional bonuses of this mix were that the fire lasted longer and burned with higher temperature. Two ignition methods [one listed, the other is the sulfuric acid] for setting the liquid on fire were developed: *"Storm match" solution: Match factory in town of Lahti manufactured 12-cm long sparklers called "storm matches" (also known as "Bengal matches" in some countries), once lit these burned about 60 seconds. Two "storm matches" were simply taped to opposite sides of bottle with insulating tape and once the matches were lit, soldier with the molotov cocktail had about 60 seconds to throw it. Also Engineer Salomaa from match factory participated in tests of this ignition system. Kuittinen and his development team seem to have succeeded completing developing the basic version of molotov cocktail equipped with "storm matches", by spring of 1939. Later during Winter War this particular version became the most commonly used in molotov cocktail version in use of Finnish military - around 80% of molotov cocktails manufactured during Winter War used this ignition method. Use of this version probably ended by end of Winter War. I'll do that. "Ignition source" leaves it vague enough so I can later modify that as necessary. |
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Not brag, but teach. If I try posting a full tutorial here without an approved Form 1, the thread will be quickly locked and trashed. A Form 1 makes it completely legitimate to discuss in detail. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Why do you need a form 1 for this? Is gasoline considered an explosive? Its gas, a old rag and an empty wine bottle. You can have all 3 components right next to each other in your garage and there is literally nothing the ATF or anyone can do about it. There is a reason why these are very popular in third world and oppressed nations. There is no way to regulate or restrict the components its made of. Youre basically paying $200 to brag to your friends and people on here that you have a tax stamp for a Molotov cochtail Not brag, but teach. If I try posting a full tutorial here without an approved Form 1, the thread will be quickly locked and trashed. A Form 1 makes it completely legitimate to discuss in detail. Won't matter. The thread will still likely get shitcanned just like my Form 1 hand grenade thread. The sight doesn't want to be associated with such, whether or not it is legal. |
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Sad but true. More than welcome over at Grog's, I bet. Be legal, be safe, and you're likely to be welcomed with open arms.
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Sad but true. More than welcome over at Grog's, I bet. Be legal, be safe, and you're likely to be welcomed with open arms. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Sad but true. More than welcome over at Grog's, I bet. Be legal, be safe, and you're likely to be welcomed with open arms. Quoted:
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Why do you need a form 1 for this? Is gasoline considered an explosive? Its gas, a old rag and an empty wine bottle. You can have all 3 components right next to each other in your garage and there is literally nothing the ATF or anyone can do about it. There is a reason why these are very popular in third world and oppressed nations. There is no way to regulate or restrict the components its made of. Youre basically paying $200 to brag to your friends and people on here that you have a tax stamp for a Molotov cochtail Not brag, but teach. If I try posting a full tutorial here without an approved Form 1, the thread will be quickly locked and trashed. A Form 1 makes it completely legitimate to discuss in detail. Won't matter. The thread will still likely get shitcanned just like my Form 1 hand grenade thread. The sight doesn't want to be associated with such, whether or not it is legal. That's fine. If I have to move it there then so be it. I'm not for creating waves here. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Here's another thread for reference:
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_5/1596234__ARCHIVED_THREAD____Molotov_cocktails.html&page=1 I have this drafted so far: Molotov Cocktail Design 1) A Molotov cocktail is a generic name used for a variety of glass bottle-based improvised incendiary weapon. 2) A Molotov cocktail falls under destructive devices as it is an incendiary device. 3) For this application, the design is as follows: a) A 750 ml or 20 ounce bottle will be used as the glass container including the original cap. An example is a San Pelligrino water bottle which, by design, has a diameter larger at the cap end than in the uppermost portion of the neck. This is a critical feature for reasons discussed below. b) The manufacturer marking and serial number will be affixed using a metal band located on the neck of the bottle onto which is engraved the information. The metal band will consist of a self-locking cable/zip tie. It will be affixed to the neck of the bottle immediately below the widened cap portion. The self-locking portion will also have permanent epoxy applied to it to further hamper re-use. The combination of self-locking and permanent epoxy should satisfy the requirement that the band cannot be re-used for another Molotov cocktail. While the metal band would survive the heat, it could not be re-affixed to a different bottle as the diameter of the band would be smaller than the threaded portion of the bottle, thereby not allowing it to be slid down onto it. C) The filling would consist of between 8 and 13% Napalm powder with the balance being gasoline. The Napalm powder would follow US patent US 2606107 whereby, as one example, 50% would be made of the aluminum salts of coconut oil fatty acids and the other 50% of the aluminum salts of olive oil. For ease of manufacturing, the Napalm powder would also contain diatomaceous earth as per US patent 2684339. View Quote |
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I still have to add the igniter information and I will have a second page with a drawing.
Any other suggestions? Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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I still have to add the igniter information and I will have a second page with a drawing. Any other suggestions? Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile View Quote Always add "or similar" to your description of ingredients, construction, or filler. That way, if you find out that X works better than Y, you're covered. |
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Always add "or similar" to your description of ingredients, construction, or filler. That way, if you find out that X works better than Y, you're covered. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I still have to add the igniter information and I will have a second page with a drawing. Any other suggestions? Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile Always add "or similar" to your description of ingredients, construction, or filler. That way, if you find out that X works better than Y, you're covered. Thank you! Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Exactly why I said the TM should have had a storage warning. Oh, well. In any case, the storm matches are available from REI, Amazon, and if you shop in Maine, Kittery Trading Post had them years ago. I like the UCO "Titan" brand. They're about 4" long, they burn for at least 15 seconds, and you're not putting them out prematurely. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I've read the same TM, it should have had a long term storage warning. Don't do that if you plan to store it for any real length of time, or might drop it, or... It's safer to go the original, tried-and-true route of the storm matches or the more modern sparkler idea. Yeah, though I do understand the chemistry behind the sulfuric acid + Potassium Chlorate + sugar mix. Also, sulfuric acid + gas mix isn't stable indefinitely. I like the idea of the matches or sparklers instead. Exactly why I said the TM should have had a storage warning. Oh, well. In any case, the storm matches are available from REI, Amazon, and if you shop in Maine, Kittery Trading Post had them years ago. I like the UCO "Titan" brand. They're about 4" long, they burn for at least 15 seconds, and you're not putting them out prematurely. I'll keep this in mind as well as an alternative ignition source. I like the idea of not boxing myself into a very specific ignition method. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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I keep thinking a road flare would make a good ignition scource
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Update: 07/09/2016
Molotov Cocktail Design 1) A Molotov cocktail is a generic name used for a variety of glass bottle-based improvised incendiary weapon. 2) A Molotov cocktail falls under destructive devices as it is an incendiary device. 3) For this application, the design is as follows: a) A 750 ml or 20 ounce bottle will be used as the glass container including the original cap. An example is a San Pelligrino water bottle which, by design, has a diameter larger at the cap end than in the uppermost portion of the neck. This is a critical feature for reasons discussed below. b) The manufacturer marking and serial number will be affixed using a metal band located on the neck of the bottle onto which is engraved the information. The metal band will consist of a self-locking cable/zip tie. It will be affixed to the neck of the bottle immediately below the widened cap portion. The self-locking portion will also have permanent epoxy applied to it to further hamper re-use. The combination of self-locking and permanent epoxy should satisfy the requirement that the band cannot be re-used for another Molotov cocktail. While the metal band would survive the heat, it could not be re-affixed to a different bottle as the diameter of the band would be smaller than the threaded portion of the bottle, thereby not allowing it to be slid down onto it. c) The filling will consist of between 8 and 13% Napalm powder with the balance being gasoline. The Napalm powder would follow US patent US 2606107 whereby, as one example, 50% would be made of the aluminum salts of coconut oil fatty acids and the other 50% of the aluminum salts of olive oil. For ease of manufacturing into powder form, the Napalm powder would also contain diatomaceous earth as per US patent 2684339. d) The ignition mechanism will consist of one of the following: I) a train of pyrotechnic material, attached to the outside of the bottle, that will be ignited and remain burning long enough for the device to be thrown, travel through the air, and hit the target, an example being a stormproof match, sparkler or flare. II) a combination of two or more compounds that when brought together will spontaneously ignite, and where the compounds are physically separated by the glass bottle, and make contact when the glass is broken, an example being sulfuric acid within the bottle and a mixture of potassium chlorate and sugar outside the bottle. View Quote This covers the bottle, marking, filling and ignition. I will have a second page with a rough sketch. |
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I think you have way too much information in there.
I would leave all the marking info out, unless they asked. I would leave all of the filler out (the filler is 'an incendiary mix'..that's all). I would leave ignition out. |
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I think you have way too much information in there. I would leave all the marking info out, unless they asked. I would leave all of the filler out (the filler is 'an incendiary mix'..that's all). I would leave ignition out. View Quote Well, serves me right for not checking back to this thread before sending it in. I thought that by not being specific enough, it would be kicked back or they would require me to re-file with the new rules. I do appreciate your advice, eodinert. I figured they'd want to make sure the marking couldn't be re-used which is why I was trying to be specific about that. I ended up paper filing today since I waited too long and wasn't able to get through the last couple of days long enough to finish. Now, the wait. |
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In this case, you're alright. Usually, however, the minimum design information is all you need to provide. One of my F1 DDs involved a rough sketch, poorly labeled, in pencil. Accepted without an issue.
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In this case, you're alright. Usually, however, the minimum design information is all you need to provide. One of my F1 DDs involved a rough sketch, poorly labeled, in pencil. Accepted without an issue. View Quote Cool. I was going to put a sketch and now I'm glad I ran out of time to make one. |
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Rather than messing with the metal ring for the Serial Number, why not have the bottle engraved itself?
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Rather than messing with the metal ring for the Serial Number, why not have the bottle engraved itself? View Quote I was thinking along the lines of people getting the spoon engraved on a grenade, although I don't see a problem doing it on the glass itself. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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I dunno why anyone would want to register an IID in the first place. You can keep all the parts to it in your lawnmower shed, and put it together in about 30 seconds, including the time it takes to stuff the rag into the bottle... GROG
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I dunno why anyone would want to register an IID in the first place. You can keep all the parts to it in your lawnmower shed, and put it together in about 30 seconds, including the time it takes to stuff the rag into the bottle... GROG View Quote I do intend to post a detailed "how to". I have a degree in chemistry and like to teach, so I will go into detail about the chemistry. I will also post it on another site someone told me about. |
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I dunno why anyone would want to register an IID in the first place. You can keep all the parts to it in your lawnmower shed, and put it together in about 30 seconds, including the time it takes to stuff the rag into the bottle... GROG View Quote Most every home is filled with items which, when combined in a certain way, create items which are prohibited by law. That does not make owning the separate components illegal unless you do actually combine them; however, stating an intent to combine them without first complying with all laws may also pose legal problems. The OP has stated an intent to make a DD after complying with federal law, and first filing and getting approval via an NFA Form 1. He is also going to document the process, after he receives the approval. The OP is also complying with board rules by acting in compliance with the law. But: Making posts saying you have everything to build an unregistered DD, and you have no plans to first comply with the law, is a violation of ar15.com rules. So please do not, because it's a PITA for the moderators. |
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OP is making the original napalm, but the military switched to napalm B before the Korean War. The ingredients are all over the Internet & polystyrene addition adds "stickiness" & increases the temp of burn, at least according to Wikipedia.
I wonder if BATFE will sign off on an incendiary in this day & age....keep us posted. |
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OP is making the original napalm, but the military switched to napalm B before the Korean War. The ingredients are all over the Internet & polystyrene addition adds "stickiness" & increases the temp of burn, at least according to Wikipedia. I wonder if BATFE will sign off on an incendiary in this day & age....keep us posted. View Quote Will do. The original formula is, for all intents and purposes, non-toxic. I mean the thickener itself and not the gasoline obviously. The original formula was only abandoned due to cost. For my purposes, the cost is trivial, but not when you're making it by the tens of tons. The original formula uses the aluminum salts of the fatty acids of coconut and olive oil as one example. As long as you start with food grade ingredients, you could theoretically eat the stuff (no, don't do this!!). There are some example formulas using Napthenic Acids and those are not non-toxic. I will go over the history in detail as it was published in this book available to read at this .pdf. I have an original copy of the book. The Scientific Method ETA: Napalm B uses styrene and benzene, both carcinogens. ETA2: Styrene is NOT styrofoam. |
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Quoted: Im not really sure for what the purpose of this is, but if I was going to waste $200 on this, I'd be making it so that it had some chance of defeating armor and serve some realistic purpose. http://i64.tinypic.com/313rpye.jpg View Quote |
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FAS | Military | DOD 101 | Systems | Dumb Bombs |||| Index | Search | MK77 750lb Napalm MK78 500lb Napalm MK79 1000lb Napalm A fire bomb is a thin skinned container of fuel gel designed for use against dug-in troops, supply installations, wooden structures, and land convoys. The MK 77 500-pound fire bomb is the only fire bomb now in service. Fire bombs rupture on impact and spread burning fuel gel on surrounding objects. MK 13 Mod 0 igniters are used to ignite the fuel gel mixture upon impact. The MK-77 is a napalm canister munition. The MK77 familiy is an evolution of the incendiary bombs M-47 and M-74, used during the conflict in Korea and the war in Vietnam. Napalm is an incendiary mixture of benzene, gasoline and polystyrene. The Marine Corps dropped all of the approximately 500 MK-77s used in the Gulf War. They were delivered primarily by the AV-8 Harriers from relatively low altitudes. MK-77s were used to ignite the Iraqis oil-filled fire trenches, which were part of barriers constructed in southern Kuwait. The containers of napalm bomber are very light and fabricated of aluminum, with a capacity for about 75 gallons of combustible gel. They lack stabilizing fins, and consequently acquire a tumbling motion on being dropped that contributes to the scattering of the combustible gel over a wide area. While the MK-77 is the only incendiary munition currently in active inventory, a variety of other incendiary devices were produced, including the M-47 Napalm bomb, the M-74 incendiary bomb, and white phosphorous and munitions manufacturing. Production of these devices continued during the Korean conflict, though various demilitarization and decontamination programs were initiated in the late 1950s. Munitions destroyed included M-47 Napalm-filled bombs and incendiary cluster bombs. Napalm is a mixture of benzene (21%), gasoline (33%), and polystyrene (46%). Benzene is a normal component of gasoline (about 2%). The gasoline used in napalm is the same leaded or unleaded gas that is used in automobiles. Gasoline is a mixture of hydrocarbons, which burn in an engine. It is a clear liquid, made from crude oil that burns and explodes easily. It naturally contains some benzene (which makes gas smell the way it does). Gasoline is lighter than, and floats on, water, but it will not mix with water. It dissolves grease and oil but will not dissolve polystyrene by itself, more benzene must be added to it. If gasoline is inhaled or swallowed, it can be dangerous or fatal. Breathing it results in an intense burning sensation in the throat and lungs, resulting in bronchitis and, eventually, pneumonia and possibly death. Swallowing gasoline results in inebriation (drunkenness), vomiting, dizziness, fever, drowsiness, confusion, and cyanosis (blue color). Benzene is a light, colorless, aromatic liquid made from a variety of raw materials, mostly crude oil and coal. In many ways it is similar to gasoline, of which it is a part. The major uses of benzene are in making plastics and other chemicals, not fuel, although it could be used as one. If benzene is breathed or swallowed, it causes throat irritation, rest lessens, excitement, depression, and, finally, convulsions, which can lead to death. A long exposure to benzene vapors (months or years) leads to bone marrow depression and in rare cases, leukemia. Polystyrene is the white, tough plastic that is used to make cups, plates, and other tableware and food containers. In the pure state it is slightly heavier than water. It dissolves easily in acetone and benzene, but not in gasoline. It is not poisonous; if swallowed it passes unchanged through the digestive tract. But it is possible to choke on it. Heated polystyrene softens at about 185 F. At higher temperatures it turns back into styrene, the chemical from which it was made. Styrene has been tested as toxic to rats. In air, polystyrene melts and burns with a yellow, sooty flame. Styrene itself has a sharp, unpleasant smell that is easy to recognize. I know styrene isn't polystyrene, but napalm B doesn't use styrene, it uses polystyrene. You won't make styrene until polystyrene burns when you use it. You don't necessarily need benzene for your project, but it helps increase flammability. Just throwing this info out as it wasn't mentioned. Best of luck with your project. |
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I was wrong about the styrene, but the benzene is critical to recreate the stickiness/tackiness of the original Napalm formula. Without it, it flows more easily. This would be contrary to its use which is to reduce its volatility/vapor pressure and have it adhere to a target better.
ETA: As far as luck, hopefully I get a good examiner. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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It looks like those handles would make for a good grip, but the bottles look large. What's their capacity? It seems to me a quart would be close to optimal for throwing for distance. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Im not really sure for what the purpose of this is, but if I was going to waste $200 on this, I'd be making it so that it had some chance of defeating armor and serve some realistic purpose. http://i64.tinypic.com/313rpye.jpg My bottle is 20 oz which feels like a good weight. I'll have to check how much it would weigh full. Gasoline is considerably less dense than water. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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The simple mix for gasoline and motor oil is 2 parts gas to 1 part motor oil? right? Is the napalm "mix" essential to your plan?
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It looks like those handles would make for a good grip, but the bottles look large. What's their capacity? It seems to me a quart would be close to optimal for throwing for distance. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Im not really sure for against ! the purpose of this is, but if I was going to waste $200 on this, I'd be making it so that it had some chance of defeating armor and serve some realistic purpose. http://i64.tinypic.com/313rpye.jpg Carboys can be purchased in 3 to 6.5 gallon sizes. There are also some 15 gallon ones.. I would want the largest possible to go against modern armor. Obviously, they could not be thrown and would need to be deployed from over passes , rooftops, or with the aid of energetics. A 20 oz bottle is a joke. |
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The simple mix for gasoline and motor oil is 2 parts gas to 1 part motor oil? right? Is the napalm "mix" essential to your plan? View Quote Yes, it's a completely different animal. It's difficult to describe how "sticky" the original Napalm mix is. It's adhesive and stringy. I'll find the passage in the book as he describes it well and I'll post it. The original experiments used Aluminum Palmitate which creates more of a grease when mixed with gasoline or other hydrocarbon fuels. ETA: Also, it's not a mixture but rather a solution as the Napalm dissolves into the gasoline. Also, it will thicken most any hydrocarbon fuel. There is a pocket incendiary device which has as its fuel a Napalm-thickened kerosene base described in the book. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Carboys can be purchased in 3 to 6.5 gallon sizes. There are also some 15 gallon ones.. I would want the largest possible to go against modern armor. Obviously, they could not be thrown and would need to be deployed from over passes , rooftops, or with the aid of energetics. A 20 oz bottle is a joke. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Im not really sure for against ! the purpose of this is, but if I was going to waste $200 on this, I'd be making it so that it had some chance of defeating armor and serve some realistic purpose. http://i64.tinypic.com/313rpye.jpg Carboys can be purchased in 3 to 6.5 gallon sizes. There are also some 15 gallon ones.. I would want the largest possible to go against modern armor. Obviously, they could not be thrown and would need to be deployed from over passes , rooftops, or with the aid of energetics. A 20 oz bottle is a joke. Several of those bottles are no picnic. They also don't have to be used against only tanks. People burn easily. |
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