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Link Posted: 10/21/2019 2:36:26 PM EDT
[#1]
Mostly supers. Subs are a novelty to me.

I'm half tempted to make a 9mm short k can from this setup. But I don't think it would sound as good. I'm also taking from my ass and don't really know, but I've read short fat 9mm cans aren't as good.
Link Posted: 10/21/2019 5:07:17 PM EDT
[#2]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

Exactly. Audibly better. By everyone's ears. We had guys stand on both sides and behind of the shooters shooting different rifle/can combos; form 1 builds on one host and whatever commercial can on the other. Lots of can/host swaps... (welding gloves are an essential piece of kit). There was pretty much consensus in all the observations.

The DM held its own, not as quiet as the Omega or 7" builds but quieter than the SpecWar556k. Its performance was totally acceptable to me, as in good, and if it was my First form 1, I would've been totally excited.  I am happy with its performance.  I did have to use a caliper hone to smooth out the machine marks in the tube though, and I am not a fan of the end cap, but whatever.

I will get the stack details on that one later I have to take it apart to trim the front spacer a smidge. I used a round file to hold the cones in alignment and as a friend tightened the end cap. Worked. I have 2 more stamps to build and will do another Form1 tomorrow.  My friend just got one back in 1.5 weeks... its a great time to be a can freak.
View Quote
When you posted the new setup, it's starts with a spacer... Does that fit before the frist cone and go to the end where the barrel adapter is? Or is there a step there and it goes after the step making a blast chamber? Looks like a chamber built into the tube.

Just built an order with that setup - 604.00  Ouch. That stings.
Link Posted: 10/21/2019 7:17:25 PM EDT
[#3]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

Volume through length is usually quieter (longer residence time before the bullet uncorks the front cap). If you are mostly shooting subsonic 300BO and don’t need room in the blast chamber for a muzzle device you can do without his first spacer that extends the blast chamber. That could leave you enough room for a 7th cone and smaller blast chamber could reduce first round pop.
View Quote
He’s right.

I would just copy this 7 and be a happy camper. A 7” with a Plan B is negligibly longer than a 6” with ASR... point is, you can get away without really any increase in OAL by using a nice low profile mount.
Link Posted: 10/21/2019 7:19:56 PM EDT
[#4]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

When you posted the new setup, it's starts with a spacer... Does that fit before the frist cone and go to the end where the barrel adapter is? Or is there a step there and it goes after the step making a blast chamber? Looks like a chamber built into the tube.

Just built an order with that setup - 604.00  Ouch. That stings.
View Quote
In a Mav tube, there is an integral 2” blast chamber that also acts as a “step” to stack off of. Their website has a diagram. So we used a .675 spacer off the tube’s step, then the first cone.

Make sense?

I look at Form 1 cans no different than commercial cans. Something I have to live with the rest of my life. I have spent up to 1000 bucks on a commercial can, with most being the 7-800 dollar range.

If someone posted a sale with Omega 300’s for 600 bucks, it would be considered a deal.

But I understand not everyone looks at things this way. But with the ultra short Form 1 times, that is what has got all my shooting group into it. It’s nice to actually pay for your can, build and shoot within a month vs wait a year.
Link Posted: 10/21/2019 8:39:44 PM EDT
[#5]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

In a Mav tube, there is an integral 2” blast chamber that also acts as a “step” to stack off of. Their website has a diagram. So we used a .675 spacer off the tube’s step, then the first cone.

Make sense?

I look at Form 1 cans no different than commercial cans. Something I have to live with the rest of my life. I have spent up to 1000 bucks on a commercial can, with most being the 7-800 dollar range.

If someone posted a sale with Omega 300’s for 600 bucks, it would be considered a deal.

But I understand not everyone looks at things this way. But with the ultra short Form 1 times, that is what has got all my shooting group into it. It’s nice to actually pay for your can, build and shoot within a month vs wait a year.
View Quote
Agreed.

How is the poi shift, and accuracy? This is an easy to copy setup.
Link Posted: 10/21/2019 8:56:46 PM EDT
[#6]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

Agreed.

How is the poi shift, and accuracy? This is an easy to copy setup.
View Quote
I have not put it on paper.  On Saturday I went out with my 7" with a slightly different stack, unthreaded a Hybrid from my 12.5" 6.8 which its sighted in with, threaded on my Mav can and started banging steel out to 500. Never touched the turrets, I found that pretty neat. Sunday was just a can test fest.  My group all belongs to a private range so we shoot at least twice a month. We'll get to paper testing next time I'm sure. One thing that was noticed across the different hosts was much less gassy the Mav builds were compared to the SiCo cans, with the Hybrids being the exception (they are 46 bore if you don't know). I almost universally use an adj block with low mass carriers on my AR's, and I have my 300 blk tuned to run with the SpecWar 762. It short stroked with the Mav can, which indicates less back pressure... which is a good thing. On one of the 16" 556's, it has a fixed block but a bootleg adj carrier.  With SiCo, I always have to turn it to "suppressed" or I eat gas. The Mav ran fine at "unsuppressed" without gas to face.
Link Posted: 10/22/2019 8:55:45 AM EDT
[#7]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

I have not put it on paper.  On Saturday I went out with my 7" with a slightly different stack, unthreaded a Hybrid from my 12.5" 6.8 which its sighted in with, threaded on my Mav can and started banging steel out to 500. Never touched the turrets, I found that pretty neat. Sunday was just a can test fest.  My group all belongs to a private range so we shoot at least twice a month. We'll get to paper testing next time I'm sure. One thing that was noticed across the different hosts was much less gassy the Mav builds were compared to the SiCo cans, with the Hybrids being the exception (they are 46 bore if you don't know). I almost universally use an adj block with low mass carriers on my AR's, and I have my 300 blk tuned to run with the SpecWar 762. It short stroked with the Mav can, which indicates less back pressure... which is a good thing. On one of the 16" 556's, it has a fixed block but a bootleg adj carrier.  With SiCo, I always have to turn it to "suppressed" or I eat gas. The Mav ran fine at "unsuppressed" without gas to face.
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Yep. Guess I'll do one of these. The Rex is so much cheaper. But you guys really sound like you like this setup.

If you do one drilled for 9mm use let us know. I'm really curious to see how it would pefrom with a bigger hole.

It you can hit Iron at 500 with no adjust, that's pretty much my answer.

You drilled these. 358 yes?
Link Posted: 10/23/2019 2:37:51 PM EDT
[#8]
OP:  If you don't mind could you tell me how you drilled the cones and end cap (i.e. drill, mill, etc. and what bits)?  Also, do you think the first cone being 17-4 is necessary.  If it makes a difference I would be planning to using a keymo mount and primarily on pistol 6.5 Grendel, 300blk, .556 AR's and maybe 16" or longer bolt guns (308, 6.5cm) 24" longer magnums (300 prc)  Build looks fantastic and sounds like it performs equally as well.  I haven't filed or purchased anything yet (obviously if I haven't filed), but did create my atf account so one step closer.  I have just been researching seeing if it would be worth it.  Your build definitely makes it seem as if it its.  Provided you are willing to spend the money and time it seems you can build a comparable to factory built can at the cost of few extra oz.  Thanks for the advice/build info offered in this thread its been very helpful so far.  Have a few commercial cans in jail but none in my possession yet, and the approval times for form 1 makes this all the more tempting.
Link Posted: 10/23/2019 2:58:24 PM EDT
[#9]
E form 1 is so easy it's almost dangerous
Link Posted: 10/23/2019 6:30:55 PM EDT
[#10]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
OP:  If you don't mind could you tell me how you drilled the cones and end cap (i.e. drill, mill, etc. and what bits)?  Also, do you think the first cone being 17-4 is necessary.  If it makes a difference I would be planning to using a keymo mount and primarily on pistol 6.5 Grendel, 300blk, .556 AR's and maybe 16" or longer bolt guns (308, 6.5cm) 24" longer magnums (300 prc)
View Quote
Not OP but yeah you’re going to want a 17-4 blast baffle because it’s taking the brunt of what you’re throwing at it. With magnum calibers id almost say the first 3 should be 17-4
Link Posted: 10/24/2019 10:35:04 AM EDT
[#11]
Yeah, as I read more I see where titanium is more prone to erosion.  My initial thinking was if TBAC cans are all titanium perhaps this could be also.  When it comes time to drill the baffles of 17-4 or Grade 9 titanium.  Should a lathe really be used or can you turn out a good result with a standard drill press?
Link Posted: 10/24/2019 1:21:29 PM EDT
[#12]
I plan to do this one,

But will use 3ss, 4ti baffles.
Link Posted: 10/24/2019 2:08:24 PM EDT
[#13]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Yeah, as I read more I see where titanium is more prone to erosion.  My initial thinking was if TBAC cans are all titanium perhaps this could be also.  When it comes time to drill the baffles of 17-4 or Grade 9 titanium.  Should a lathe really be used or can you turn out a good result with a standard drill press?
View Quote
Titanium that is beefy works in blast baffles as long as you don’t exceed 800F (2-3 mags dumped) or run barrels too short for the cartridge such that unburnt powder sand blasts the baffle.

Adding 1 or 2 17-4 hardened baffles adds less than an ounce and if you burn through those you can still rotate in other baffles in a threaded Form 1 build. With a rimless front cap and clever spacing you could even remove baffles for lighter uses, or rearrange blaster chamber spacer for direct thread hosts.  The worry is extra parts but if you build for 10 baffles and can run with 9, technically that isn’t an extra part.

If you have access to a lathe you will get better tolerances, but fixturing and centering can be time consuming.  Skirted cones have an advantage here.  Otherwise careful use of a step drill or centering each pass carefully and a generous bore works fine with a drill press.
Link Posted: 10/25/2019 4:01:29 AM EDT
[#14]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
@chewbacca

Is this tube the Maverick black graphite cerakote or a different powder coat?

Getting ready to place my order, hoping to get the engraving and coating done in one step.
Link Posted: 10/26/2019 2:36:06 PM EDT
[#15]
Damn... My wallet be hurting!

$600 just from Maverick ??

$200 for the stamp.

$200 for the break and adapter.
Link Posted: 10/28/2019 3:18:34 PM EDT
[#16]
Op,

If you were to do one similar but on a 6” tube who would you arrange your baffles and spacers?

I’d really like a 5” mini for a couple of my 14.5s but looks like no custom length tubes at the moment from maverick.
Link Posted: 10/28/2019 7:47:41 PM EDT
[#17]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Op,

If you were to do one similar but on a 6” tube who would you arrange your baffles and spacers?

I’d really like a 5” mini for a couple of my 14.5s but looks like no custom length tubes at the moment from maverick.
View Quote
I would do:
.625,.625,.5 for the rest , .25, end cap
Link Posted: 10/28/2019 7:48:04 PM EDT
[#18]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

@chewbacca

Is this tube the Maverick black graphite cerakote or a different powder coat?

Getting ready to place my order, hoping to get the engraving and coating done in one step.
View Quote
I did sniper grey. It’s cerakote
Link Posted: 11/2/2019 12:17:58 PM EDT
[#19]
Thanks for the update

I'm so just copying the latest updated spacing and cones

So it's 7 stepped cones?  I ordered the cones and most of the spacers.  The tube and 0.50 spacers oare out of stock right now.  I also have a Omega 300 waiting on the stamp.  In addition I'm going all around Key-mo mounts.  I'm ordering the Key-mo for the Omega.

What differences will I encounter with the spacing using a ASR (which comes with the Omega) or Key-mo?  I've only built 2 cans.  One on a APC9SD and a SDTA 7.8 direct thread.

My guns that will be suppressed

5.56
AR w/10.3"
AR w/11.5"
AR w/14.5"
ARX w/10.2"
B&T APC223 w/8.9" - this one concerns me. Just may have to make or buy one specifically for this shortie or go 12" barrel

6.5 Grendel
AR w/18"
AR w/12.5"

300AAC BO
AR w/8"
Link Posted: 11/6/2019 2:27:46 PM EDT
[#20]
This thread got me all excited and then I find out Maverick is all out of stock for the next 100 days.  
Link Posted: 11/6/2019 8:41:49 PM EDT
[#21]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
This thread got me all excited and then I find out Maverick is all out of stock for the next 100 days.  
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I hope not, 10-11 days ago when I placed my order I was told 3 weeks.
Link Posted: 11/6/2019 11:45:10 PM EDT
[#22]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

I hope not, 10-11 days ago when I placed my order I was told 3 weeks.
View Quote
Go check out the website.
Link Posted: 11/8/2019 2:53:16 PM EDT
[#23]
It depends on which tubes you are ordering.
Raven (1.5 OD): Near term'ish
Talon (1.625 OD): 100 days'ish
Link Posted: 11/8/2019 11:44:39 PM EDT
[#24]
Link Posted: 11/9/2019 1:11:20 AM EDT
[#25]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
oh no! I was planning on building a clone in the next 2 months
Link Posted: 11/9/2019 7:37:04 PM EDT
[#26]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
oh no! I was planning on building a clone in the next 2 months
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
oh no! I was planning on building a clone in the next 2 months
Yeah. Those stepped cones would be cool to play with. I’d guess Ecco is going to be going crazy.
Link Posted: 11/9/2019 9:23:49 PM EDT
[#27]
DAMN.

I  banged close to $700.00!
Link Posted: 11/10/2019 11:35:55 AM EDT
[#28]
Jesus. Well... that was fun while it lasted.
Link Posted: 11/11/2019 6:05:11 PM EDT
[#29]
What the f**k. I still needed to get the rest of the cones for my mine! That's some bs. At least I got my tube, endcap, and what cones i have when I did.
Link Posted: 11/11/2019 6:35:01 PM EDT
[#30]
Can someone give me accurate dimensions, of the stepped cones?
I can see what it would cost to get them made.

Is there a big demand for these cones?
Usually need a pretty decent sized order, to get a reasonable cost/per.
Link Posted: 11/16/2019 10:46:36 PM EDT
[#31]
@chewbacca

Trying to put together the new version of your can.

When figuring out the spacer, divider specs does this include the 2” preformed blast chamber of the tube?

Attachment Attached File
Link Posted: 11/16/2019 11:04:13 PM EDT
[#32]
My buddy's version..Yes. Just stack everything in reverse order and slide the tube over, the last spacer will hit the step. Don't drop things in one at a time. That's how things get stuck sideways.
Link Posted: 11/16/2019 11:45:51 PM EDT
[#33]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Yea pretty spectacular fail on their part. They made some comment about their customer unexpectedly but dramatically changing or some nonsense.

Like wut?
Link Posted: 11/23/2019 7:00:48 PM EDT
[#34]
Maverick is back in business.

I got an email from 'em this morning to that effect.

I was one of the ones who placed an order for my F1 build just a few days before the shut down. For those wondering they delivered on my order as expected.

Cheers,
Sudboy
Link Posted: 11/24/2019 6:48:49 PM EDT
[#35]
I got my order but they did not engrave it as originally ordered.
They did refund the $25 engraving fee.
No explanation.
Link Posted: 11/24/2019 8:50:38 PM EDT
[#36]
I think the explanation is they got swamped.  The laser engraving option was a great service as it saves shipping to someone like NC Engravers or Tar Heel State Firearms, or expensive local artistes.
Link Posted: 11/27/2019 5:46:30 PM EDT
[#37]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I got my order but they did not engrave it as originally ordered.
They did refund the $25 engraving fee.
No explanation.
View Quote
Mine either, thought it may been because I pissed them offf and got banned from their Facebook page. Rest of my order was spot on.

As for the engraving, probably for the best as I would rather have it done on one of the caps.
Link Posted: 11/27/2019 6:22:35 PM EDT
[#38]
What got you banned?
Link Posted: 11/27/2019 6:59:33 PM EDT
[#39]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
What got you banned?
View Quote
I “think” it was a drunk rant about them caving to the ATF, shuttering up the place and leaving us all to our losses.

Which wouldn’t be the first, second or third time it has happened to me in 25 years in the online gun community, they deleted it and now only Google and Facebook know what I said ?????

I did apologize; which does not make up for my words or actions, but in the end they did stand strong and fill my order.

Kiddos to them!
Link Posted: 11/28/2019 11:08:32 AM EDT
[#40]
Jesus. A drunken rant about caving to the atf?

I swear the gun community is our own worst enemy.
Link Posted: 11/29/2019 6:44:13 PM EDT
[#41]
Received my $840 worth of Maverick solvent trap parts a couple of weeks ago. It's all still sitting in the box (after simply inspecting the pieces).

My second F1 is 4 weeks in Submitted / Pending status, which is specifically for these parts. Once the stamp arrives, what's the best option to order for the open-end of the trap to affix it to the noisy end of a boom stick?
Link Posted: 11/29/2019 7:54:45 PM EDT
[#42]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Received my $840 worth of Maverick solvent trap parts a couple of weeks ago. It's all still sitting in the box (after simply inspecting the pieces).

My second F1 is 4 weeks in Submitted / Pending status, which is specifically for these parts. Once the stamp arrives, what's the best option to order for the open-end of the trap to affix it to the noisy end of a boom stick?
View Quote
Contact @number40fan!

Nice little jig for the baffles and with a little McGivering it will work for the end cap.

Attachment Attached File
Link Posted: 11/29/2019 8:09:08 PM EDT
[#43]
Link Posted: 12/3/2019 11:13:02 AM EDT
[#44]
@chewbacca

How important is it to align the baffle clips in the tube?
Link Posted: 12/3/2019 11:20:08 AM EDT
[#45]
It’s not. The DHC style clip doesn’t require alignment. I’ve tested it both ways, and no difference.
Link Posted: 12/4/2019 1:26:03 AM EDT
[#46]
I’m preparing to drill my maverick cones (17-4) and am wondering if this is the right approach.

I have a jig from number40fan, a drill press with speed range of 280-3100rpm, 3/8 TiN coated cobalt jobbers length drill bits from McMaster.

Should I use procedures below.

- Apply constant pressure or should I peck?
- Use cutting oil.  
- speed ~500rpm
- begin with final bore size (3/8) bit.  
- cut out DHC with dremel and file smooth with hand file.

Seeing as one can no longer obtain cones from maverick and I only have the 7 I need to copy this build, I only get one chance at this.  If I wanted to do some practice drilling where would one obtain 17-4 H900 steel of similar thickness.

Also end cap is titanium should I use any different technique here?  I plan to use the bushing as a guide to center the bit as I’ve read that it will fit, tight, but fits.

Any advice appreciated and thank you OP for providing the information you already have.
Link Posted: 12/4/2019 12:33:53 PM EDT
[#47]
If your centering jig holds true there is no reason not to bore in one pass with the 0.375” drill. Pecking is normally for clearing chips in deep holes, the thin cone faces will drill best with steady pressure.  If your drill is slightly off center you can clip those thick rimmed areas to open them up and even up bore clearances (clipping interrupts concentricity anyway, so clip where it helps even up your errors). EDIT: those Maverick step cones are already ported for a DHC clip so you won’t be able to clock your clipping if holes are slightly off-center.

Drill speed should be set to prevent stalling if your drill can’t hold RPM recommended from drill tables for but size/material.  A 3/8 drill bit shouldn’t flex under appropriate pressure. Other than starting on center, runout from cheap chucks will slightly enlarge your hole, and longer drills exacerbate runout.  I prefer stub cobalt drills (screw machine size) but some people like step drills.  Step drills work well if you lack a drilling fixture.

Drill your blast baffle first, it’s concentricity is less important.  Drill your front cap last or once you’ve got a satisfactory technique as it’s the only hole you will really see.  Lube is absolutely a benefit. Tap Magic is better than WD40.  Motor oil thinned with kerosene works.  Even 3in1 oil is better than dry.
Link Posted: 12/10/2019 2:11:40 PM EDT
[#48]
So with no ETA in the larger Talon tubes how would this stack do with the standard 1.5 OD Raven tubes? 7”.

@Chewbacca
Link Posted: 12/10/2019 3:46:46 PM EDT
[#49]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
So with no ETA in the larger Talon tubes how would this stack do with the standard 1.5 OD Raven tubes? 7”.

@Chewbacca
View Quote
On a 1.5 I would do .625, .625, the rest .5 until the last one at .375.
Link Posted: 12/11/2019 3:32:24 PM EDT
[#50]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

On a 1.5 I would do .625, .625, the rest .5 until the last one at .375.
View Quote
Solid.

Also, by chance does anyone know what the thread spec for the end of the tube is? They won’t give it out. I get it’s a tapered but locking myself into their cap only is pretty lame if for some reason it needs to be replaced down the road due to damage of whatever.
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