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Posted: 6/9/2016 2:28:37 PM EDT
[#1]
Are any more sets making it into hands here? I would assume that they are filtering in at a steady rate and as such I'm hoping to hear the reports...good or bad. I'd like to know how many night scopes are working vs. DOA. It looks like mine is slated to arrive on Monday afternoon-evening and will let the good people here know how the roll of the dice went for me.
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Posted: 6/9/2016 4:17:00 PM EDT
[#2]
I think DOA is the exception rather than the rule. I know of eight so far and only the one mentioned here is non-functional and there's no reason to think that's not just a battery issue. I received three and they're all working now. Two had focus issues(easy fix)and one had a reticle that wouldn't light. I just popped the cap a few minutes ago and tugged on the reticle cell a little. Couldn't get it to budge so I buttoned it back up and it works fine now.
Download the PVS-4 manual and it'll tell you anything you need to know about the ENOSA. http://aunv.blackice.com.au/userfiles/david-an-pvs4_technical_manual.pdf |
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Posted: 6/9/2016 5:24:36 PM EDT
[#3]
Received a call from APEX today on the 7 scopes my friends and I ordered so once they come in I will let the board know if they are DOA, etc. Thanks to the other forum members for the great information on these scopes.
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Posted: 6/9/2016 5:25:30 PM EDT
[#4]
dbl
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Posted: 6/9/2016 5:28:31 PM EDT
[#5]
So quick review of the NV scope. Yay mine works!
So, its basically a PVS-4 in terms of size and function the two scopes are pretty much identical. The VP009 is maybe 1/2 shorter and about the same weight wise. The Spanish scope is a bit nicer in the fact it can take AA batteries directly without the stupid adapter you have to use on most PVS-4's (yes some late models also had AA holders built in, but they are the exception IMO). The VP009 comes with a standard rubber eye-cap with no pinholes, so no daylight zeroing possible. However since its using the PVS-4 cat lens, the standard PVS-4 daylight cover fits just fine and I'm sure will also work fine. Other than that it runs just like a PVS-4, reticle brightness is independent of the gain knob on the scope, and the scope also has an independent off/on/reticle switch so you can use while observing without having the reticle on. The reticle is an inverted chevron, alot like the Kite series or a soviet 1pn51-2. 
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Posted: 6/9/2016 6:29:10 PM EDT
[#6]
Topic Moved
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Posted: 6/9/2016 6:36:20 PM EDT
[#7]
Ok, just got mine delivered. I've got the VNP-009EE version. Condition of both scopes look good. There was a tag zip-tied to the NVG with some bar codes on it. Battery compartment of the NVG looked very clean with no corrosion. Dropped in some lithium batteries, took it into a closet and powered it up successfully. I'll have to wait a couple more hours to try it outside to see how it focuses.
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Posted: 6/9/2016 7:14:41 PM EDT
[#8]
I got mine today both kits are in great shape and NV worked right out of the box with AA batteries.
Does anyone have a source for PVS-4 US Day filters? These would be handy for using with this for sighting in a rifle in the daytime. |
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Posted: 6/9/2016 7:38:29 PM EDT
[#9]
I just looked myself. Tried ebay and there is a seller on there with several pairs of day filters for sale. Just under $6 a pair. Can't speak for his reliability but lots of positive feedback. For that price, I ordered a pair from him. Search there for "PVS-4 day filter" and you should see it.
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Posted: 6/9/2016 7:47:29 PM EDT
[#10]
Day filters are all over ebay for $7 each. Anyone receiving a unit that won't focus,....don't panic. It's easy.
There's a smooth focus stop ring between the eyepiece and objective focus wheels. It has one locking screw that clamps it in place. Mine are all allen screws, but I've heard of Phillips,......either way, find the tool that works to loosen that screw. Now take the scope out and focus to infinity,.....stars are a good target with a clear sky. DO NOT USE THE SUN for a target!! 
Now clamp the stop ring tight and you're good to go. |
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Posted: 6/9/2016 9:55:37 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Day filters are all over ebay for $7 each. Anyone receiving a unit that won't focus,....don't panic. It's easy. There's a smooth focus stop ring between the eyepiece and objective focus wheels. It has one locking screw that clamps it in place. Mine are all allen screws, but I've heard of Phillips,......either way, find the tool that works to loosen that screw. Now take the scope out and focus to infinity,.....stars are a good target with a clear sky. DO NOT USE THE SUN for a target!!
Now clamp the stop ring tight and you're good to go. Thanks for the info. Mine wouldn't focus so I followed along with your advice. My unit has the phillips screw. Loosened that and had enough of a break in the clouds that I could focus on an overhead star then re-tightened the ring. Was then able to adjust the focus back a little bit and could read some street signs about 200' away. Re-centered the reticle as well since the vertical one was cranked pretty far to the left. |
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Posted: 6/9/2016 10:54:33 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Thanks for the info. Mine wouldn't focus so I followed along with your advice. My unit has the phillips screw. Loosened that and had enough of a break in the clouds that I could focus on an overhead star then re-tightened the ring. Was then able to adjust the focus back a little bit and could read some street signs about 200' away. Re-centered the reticle as well since the vertical one was cranked pretty far to the left. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Day filters are all over ebay for $7 each. Anyone receiving a unit that won't focus,....don't panic. It's easy. There's a smooth focus stop ring between the eyepiece and objective focus wheels. It has one locking screw that clamps it in place. Mine are all allen screws, but I've heard of Phillips,......either way, find the tool that works to loosen that screw. Now take the scope out and focus to infinity,.....stars are a good target with a clear sky. DO NOT USE THE SUN for a target!!
Now clamp the stop ring tight and you're good to go. Thanks for the info. Mine wouldn't focus so I followed along with your advice. My unit has the phillips screw. Loosened that and had enough of a break in the clouds that I could focus on an overhead star then re-tightened the ring. Was then able to adjust the focus back a little bit and could read some street signs about 200' away. Re-centered the reticle as well since the vertical one was cranked pretty far to the left. Great to read, I just took mine out for the first time, and it works and glows, but doesn't quite focus - lots of blurry shapes and street lights in the distance look like halos I can see the focus rings working a little when turning, but not enough.. I came in jumped on this thread and saw this. I'm going to give it a try. |
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Posted: 6/9/2016 11:34:33 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Great to read, I just took mine out for the first time, and it works and glows, but doesn't quite focus - lots of blurry shapes and street lights in the distance look like halos I can see the focus rings working a little when turning, but not enough.. I came in jumped on this thread and saw this. I'm going to give it a try. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Day filters are all over ebay for $7 each. Anyone receiving a unit that won't focus,....don't panic. It's easy. There's a smooth focus stop ring between the eyepiece and objective focus wheels. It has one locking screw that clamps it in place. Mine are all allen screws, but I've heard of Phillips,......either way, find the tool that works to loosen that screw. Now take the scope out and focus to infinity,.....stars are a good target with a clear sky. DO NOT USE THE SUN for a target!!
Now clamp the stop ring tight and you're good to go. Thanks for the info. Mine wouldn't focus so I followed along with your advice. My unit has the phillips screw. Loosened that and had enough of a break in the clouds that I could focus on an overhead star then re-tightened the ring. Was then able to adjust the focus back a little bit and could read some street signs about 200' away. Re-centered the reticle as well since the vertical one was cranked pretty far to the left. Great to read, I just took mine out for the first time, and it works and glows, but doesn't quite focus - lots of blurry shapes and street lights in the distance look like halos I can see the focus rings working a little when turning, but not enough.. I came in jumped on this thread and saw this. I'm going to give it a try. Took it out focussed on a star and I can easily see things clearly at 100 yds and out now. 25 yds and close range - doesn't seem like to focus to well at close quarters - but its a rifle scope for distance I assume.or maybe I need to adjust it some more. |
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Posted: 6/10/2016 1:44:31 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The original post on subguns is absolutely bullshit (typical for SG) unless there are more than one type of scope (I think Rich mentioned there might be more than one model). Whoever actually posted pics here clearly IDed the tube as a XX1500 (no longer made gen2 tube). Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
The tube used in the ENOSA night scope is special type no longer made. Its 18mm only refers to the input diameter and no other modern types will fit. Even if it did the ENOSA uses a fiber input window so if you could cobble together a 18mm tube to fit , it wouldn't focus. Its kind of like trying to put ANVIS or PVS-7 tube in a PVS-4. The original post at subguns states that: "IIRC, the tube is an MX-10160 type which means that it may possibly be upgradable using U.S. made Gen2 and even Gen3 intensifer tubes." I haven't been able to verify this, however, the mx10160 is common. The original post on subguns is absolutely bullshit (typical for SG) unless there are more than one type of scope (I think Rich mentioned there might be more than one model). Whoever actually posted pics here clearly IDed the tube as a XX1500 (no longer made gen2 tube). What do you think about the XX1380 tube? From the info I've found, it's a contemporary tube (to the XX1500) which is still in production for legacy systems: http://www.lahouxoptics.nl/brochures/invertertubes_product_sheet.pdf |
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Posted: 6/10/2016 2:50:31 AM EDT
[#15]
Did I miss the boat on these?
What are they going for? |
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Posted: 6/10/2016 5:09:23 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Did I miss the boat on these? What are they going for? Afraid so, they sold out a few days ago. One time only deal per the seller. They were being sold for $400 plus shipping for the complete kit. Many people bought multiple kits, you may be able to get someone to part with one but I'm sure they'll go for more than the original $400. |
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Posted: 6/10/2016 7:34:09 AM EDT
[#17]
Kicking myself for not picking one of these up....
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Posted: 6/10/2016 8:25:34 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What do you think about the XX1380 tube? From the info I've found, it's a contemporary tube (to the XX1500) which is still in production for legacy systems: http://www.lahouxoptics.nl/brochures/invertertubes_product_sheet.pdf Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
The tube used in the ENOSA night scope is special type no longer made. Its 18mm only refers to the input diameter and no other modern types will fit. Even if it did the ENOSA uses a fiber input window so if you could cobble together a 18mm tube to fit , it wouldn't focus. Its kind of like trying to put ANVIS or PVS-7 tube in a PVS-4. The original post at subguns states that: "IIRC, the tube is an MX-10160 type which means that it may possibly be upgradable using U.S. made Gen2 and even Gen3 intensifer tubes." I haven't been able to verify this, however, the mx10160 is common. The original post on subguns is absolutely bullshit (typical for SG) unless there are more than one type of scope (I think Rich mentioned there might be more than one model). Whoever actually posted pics here clearly IDed the tube as a XX1500 (no longer made gen2 tube). What do you think about the XX1380 tube? From the info I've found, it's a contemporary tube (to the XX1500) which is still in production for legacy systems: http://www.lahouxoptics.nl/brochures/invertertubes_product_sheet.pdf Its all about whether or not it will fit, from the information i can find, the XX1500 is 53mm diameter tube and 51m long. I can't find any dimensional information on the XX1380 tube in that brochure you linked. For example the 9644 tube in the pvs-4 is 63x76.2mm so its too big to fit in theory. |
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Posted: 6/10/2016 9:30:27 AM EDT
[#19]
Mine won't get here till Tuesday but hoping someone who has already received theirs can answer a few questions.. I know pretty much the entire front end is a direct replacement for the front of an AN/PVS-4 scope, but what about the rear, specifically the eyeguard/eyecup? Would one from a AN/PVS-4 be a direct replacement? I'd like to get one of the "gated" eye pieces that has flaps on the inside to hide the glow until you press your eye against it. Additionally, what is the diameter of the Mod F day scope? Could you remove the STANAG mount and rings and replace them with rings that could attach to a standard railed upper? I appreciate any help someone can provide!
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Posted: 6/10/2016 11:35:30 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Mine won't get here till Tuesday but hoping someone who has already received theirs can answer a few questions.. I know pretty much the entire front end is a direct replacement for the front of an AN/PVS-4 scope, but what about the rear, specifically the eyeguard/eyecup? Would one from a AN/PVS-4 be a direct replacement? I'd like to get one of the "gated" eye pieces that has flaps on the inside to hide the glow until you press your eye against it. Additionally, what is the diameter of the Mod F day scope? Could you remove the STANAG mount and rings and replace them with rings that could attach to a standard railed upper? I appreciate any help someone can provide! The rubber eyepiece looks like a different size, and the scope is mentioned as being a 31mm tube. |
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Posted: 6/10/2016 12:16:48 PM EDT
[#21]
Don't know about the -4, but the shuttered eyecup from the PVS-2 is too large.
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Posted: 6/10/2016 1:49:43 PM EDT
[#22]
Harlikwin, since you have both, can you check to see if the PVS-4 shuttered eye guard can work? Thanks!
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Posted: 6/10/2016 2:36:48 PM EDT
[#23]
There's one on the 'bay now for 600.00 starting out...and it already has 1 bid. I'm really glad that I was able to order a set as I was kicking myself for missing out on some NV they were selling a year or so ago so this is like my redemption. It also appears that chances of getting a working NV scope is really good and I'm hoping that the one fella here got his DOA unit to fire up. Monday can't get here soon enough for me!
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Afraid so, they sold out a few days ago. One time only deal per the seller. They were being sold for $400 plus shipping for the complete kit. Many people bought multiple kits, you may be able to get someone to part with one but I'm sure they'll go for more than the original $400. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Did I miss the boat on these? What are they going for? Afraid so, they sold out a few days ago. One time only deal per the seller. They were being sold for $400 plus shipping for the complete kit. Many people bought multiple kits, you may be able to get someone to part with one but I'm sure they'll go for more than the original $400. |
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Posted: 6/10/2016 3:11:27 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Harlikwin, since you have both, can you check to see if the PVS-4 shuttered eye guard can work? Thanks! Ill double check, but I think no. The pvs 4 eye cup does have set screws to engage in that rear groove which the vp09 lacks, and iirc the vp09 eyepiece was smaller, but you could probably hockmere it on there if you were motivated enough but it's too big. ***UPDATE**** Yeah the PVS-4 eyecup is too big to work as designed as I suspected. BUT if you leave the original eyecup in place and push it in, and then place the pvs-4 eyecup over that and screw it down it could conceivably work. |
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Posted: 6/10/2016 5:16:18 PM EDT
[#25]
I got an "EE" version. It works, but I've only been able to use it in my basement. I probably won't be able to go outside to test it for a few days. I have noticed that mine has what appears to be a dot reticle, instead of the more complex --^-- that has otherwise been shown. Maybe that's the difference with the EE version?
I've noticed Apex has deleted all their posts on this thread, which is a little weird and disconcerting. |
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Posted: 6/10/2016 7:27:26 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I got an "EE" version. It works, but I've only been able to use it in my basement. I probably won't be able to go outside to test it for a few days. I have noticed that mine has what appears to be a dot reticle, instead of the more complex --^-- that has otherwise been shown. Maybe that's the difference with the EE version? I've noticed Apex has deleted all their posts on this thread, which is a little weird and disconcerting. I think mine is EE as well and has the --^-- reticle. Who knows with surplus... Is APEX not a site sponsor? If thats the case thats why they were probably deleted. |
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Posted: 6/10/2016 7:37:12 PM EDT
[#27]
dbl
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Posted: 6/11/2016 2:00:25 AM EDT
[#28]
i just received two sets and here is a general review:
The NV scopes are both VNP-009EE. Both tubes and both reticles power on. The reticles are standard. Both had the focus issue others mention. The PVS-4 focus procedure worked perfectly, and both scopes now focus properly. Both seem to have a brighter central fuzzy spot (not the reticle) and I'm not sure what that's about. One is in very good condition and one is a bit more worn. Lenses appear to be pretty well taken care of. No corrosion in the battery housings and no real damage besides wear & minor dings. I'm curious what the EE designates. Anyone brave enough to check the tube in an EE to see if it's also the XX1500? I can't wait to get these out into more realistic conditions than the suburbs. The day scopes seem to be in roughly average condition per what has been posted, with one being in somewhat better shape and one somewhat worse. The glass in both seems quite good. The more beat-up one has tiny speckles visible throughout the field, which seem to be internal, though I haven't tried cleaning the lenses yet. The VNP which goes with it is also somewhat more worn. The day scopes look like they'd work nicely on an AR, because - and I believe this has not been mentioned yet - they have a BDC-cammed elevation knob out to 1200m. As these scopes were for the Cetme LV, I'm assuming it's for the 5.56mm round. I'm happy to have received functioning units and I believe the condition was accurately represented by Apex. Considering that for $400, we got a functional Gen 2 weapon sight, a 4x BDC scope with good glass, and a nice case, I believe this was an exceptionally good deal. |
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Posted: 6/11/2016 8:37:18 AM EDT
[#29]
Not to go too far off topic, But does anyone understand how to use the reticle and aim at a target with the day scope?
My Spanish is no good - My bad. Does one put the top vertical line post on the target or the lower or?? Also - what are the cross lines on the horizontal line for - shooting at moving targets? |
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Posted: 6/11/2016 7:33:09 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Not to go too far off topic, But does anyone understand how to use the reticle and aim at a target with the day scope? My Spanish is no good - My bad. Does one put the top vertical line post on the target or the lower or?? Also - what are the cross lines on the horizontal line for - shooting at moving targets? I suspect you can do either. SUIT used a top down pointer so not to obscure the target. |
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Posted: 6/12/2016 12:51:04 AM EDT
[#31]
I'm wondering about the production history of the VNPs. With little to no info I think we're assuming it was a Spanish-made scope. The Model F day scopes probably were, given the heritage to the Z24 and long history of German-Spanish technical cooperation. However, it seems curious to me that the scope is entirely labelled in English abbreviation - RET, GAIN, DN (down), and RT (right). Given the fact that it's obviously a half-brother to the PVS-4, with basically an identical front end, is it possible that these were actually US made - perhaps to a design that was already on the shelf for the PVS-4, had it continued in production? Why would a scope made in Spain solely for Spanish use have English labelling? I'm just curious.
Also, Harlikwin, I have a question on focus procedure. I applied the PVS procedure, which worked fine. However, it's not clear what position the diopter adjustment ideally should be in when you do this. Any ideas? |
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Posted: 6/12/2016 4:00:51 PM EDT
[#32]
Always focus the diopter until you have a clear view of the reticle, you can do this with the day cover on.
At a guess given the Mullard tube it might be a Brit design or a US design with a Brit tube? Or a Spanish design using US and UK components (my guess). |
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Posted: 6/12/2016 7:11:10 PM EDT
[#33]
It would make the most sense, given Spain's limited resources, to use as many existing components as possible. For example, it wouldn't surprise me if the front end literally is from a PVS-4 overrun. The tube was the lower-cost British gen 2 option of the time. So the question to me is, where was the back half designed and manufactured? Especially given the English-language labelling.
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Posted: 6/13/2016 11:26:07 AM EDT
[#34]
I guess my question is: What would it take to make an MX-10160 holder for the unit, and install that in place of the xx1500?
I picked one up, and it's a really interesting little unit. Lots of edge distortion... but the center is very clean (and I really do mean center only). |
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Posted: 6/13/2016 11:59:36 AM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I guess my question is: What would it take to make an MX-10160 holder for the unit, and install that in place of the xx1500? I picked one up, and it's a really interesting little unit. Lots of edge distortion... but the center is very clean (and I really do mean center only). Odd mine is pretty flat across the FOV, the only notable thing is the center sparklies that are reminiscent of gen1 TC systems... As for using a mx10160, you loose the gain function, and would need to match the input focal lenght to the 10160 and same for output... |
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Posted: 6/13/2016 12:03:03 PM EDT
[#36]
Yeah, I'm seeing serious edge distortion, and then the very center zone is super clean. (You can see lines in tree bark in the center, then the next zone has no high definition, and the edges create an almost fish eye type of distortion.)
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Posted: 6/13/2016 12:50:00 PM EDT
[#37]
I did some reading at nightvisionforums on similar old Mullard/Philips tubes.
The "fuzzy dot" area of high scintillation/sparkles in the center of the view is partly due to the tube design, and also can be an indication that the tube has a lot of hours on it.. Various users reported a flat field, and others a curved field for the same tube model, so this also seems to be a quirk of the Mullard tubes. I'm trying to track down replacement tubes and might have more info to add later in the week. The Mullard/Philips tube design sports high gain for a contemporary gen2, but sgnal to noise doesn't compare well to gen3. The catch for adapting another tube is I believe the integral fiber-optic inverter input. The 9644 (PVS-4) also has this due to being the same design. At least a few inverter tubes are still made by Photonis in France, though apparently not the one we need. |
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Posted: 6/13/2016 1:05:14 PM EDT
[#38]
I had four of these units out last night setting the focus. All had the center scintillation mentioned and one had the edge distortion. The one with edge distortion happened to be an EE model and it was also the only one using a Phillips screw clamping the focus stop ring. That one gave me fits,.......the focus stop had been adjusted to infinity and beyond,......it gave a blurry image at infinity and nothing anywhere else. Now that it's set properly I have sharp focus from infinity down to 20'(and bark on the trees).
. |
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Posted: 6/13/2016 1:38:33 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Yeah, I'm seeing serious edge distortion, and then the very center zone is super clean. (You can see lines in tree bark in the center, then the next zone has no high definition, and the edges create an almost fish eye type of distortion.) Weird... Your tube might be misadjusted (too much gain?) I don't know enough about the XX1500 to say definitively. |
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Posted: 6/13/2016 1:43:14 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I did some reading at nightvisionforums on similar old Mullard/Philips tubes. The "fuzzy dot" area of high scintillation/sparkles in the center of the view is partly due to the tube design, and also can be an indication that the tube has a lot of hours on it.. Various users reported a flat field, and others a curved field for the same tube model, so this also seems to be a quirk of the Mullard tubes. I'm trying to track down replacement tubes and might have more info to add later in the week. The Mullard/Philips tube design sports high gain for a contemporary gen2, but sgnal to noise doesn't compare well to gen3. The catch for adapting another tube is I believe the integral fiber-optic inverter input. The 9644 (PVS-4) also has this due to being the same design. At least a few inverter tubes are still made by Photonis in France, though apparently not the one we need. How was the SNR actually measured? Is this off a spec sheet? Alot of older SNR measurements were done differently compared to "modern" ones, i.e. the SNR of 9916 and 9644 tube is often given as 4 or so but it was done using a different measurement methodology compared to modern tubes, if you used a modern method it would be significantly higher ~8-12 or so, certainly not Gen3 territory, but not nearly as bad as it looks. |
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Posted: 6/13/2016 2:36:22 PM EDT
[#41]
Anyone have a source on A.R.M.S. #07 mounts? I've looked everywhere it seems and no one has any in stock. I'd rather not spend 2 to 3 times that for the #19 mount especially when I'd like to get two mounts. Placed an order with SWFA because I thought they were in stock but they're not.
Any manufacturers feel like doing a special run of adapters to mount STANAG optics on a Picatinny rail? 
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Posted: 6/14/2016 7:51:12 AM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Weird... Your tube might be misadjusted (too much gain?) I don't know enough about the XX1500 to say definitively. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Yeah, I'm seeing serious edge distortion, and then the very center zone is super clean. (You can see lines in tree bark in the center, then the next zone has no high definition, and the edges create an almost fish eye type of distortion.) Weird... Your tube might be misadjusted (too much gain?) I don't know enough about the XX1500 to say definitively. I figured it out... the ocular lens seems to have an issue. Looks like the coating on the lens is scratched and worn off. Real shame, as when you look through the tube through a good part of the lens, it's SUPER clean. I've no idea how to fix that, other then replacing the lens. |
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Posted: 6/14/2016 9:35:28 AM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I figured it out... the ocular lens seems to have an issue. Looks like the coating on the lens is scratched and worn off. Real shame, as when you look through the tube through a good part of the lens, it's SUPER clean. I've no idea how to fix that, other then replacing the lens. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Yeah, I'm seeing serious edge distortion, and then the very center zone is super clean. (You can see lines in tree bark in the center, then the next zone has no high definition, and the edges create an almost fish eye type of distortion.) Weird... Your tube might be misadjusted (too much gain?) I don't know enough about the XX1500 to say definitively. I figured it out... the ocular lens seems to have an issue. Looks like the coating on the lens is scratched and worn off. Real shame, as when you look through the tube through a good part of the lens, it's SUPER clean. I've no idea how to fix that, other then replacing the lens. Hm, I guess that might explain it, its odd that there would be alot of edge distortion though, fuzzyness I can understand. I suppose some of those guys with the dead scopes might make their money back parting out their scopes to those of us with working ones. I figure the front end Cat lens which is PVS-4 compatible is probably worth a 1-300 just by itself. |
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Posted: 6/14/2016 1:30:46 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Hm, I guess that might explain it, its odd that there would be alot of edge distortion though, fuzzyness I can understand. I suppose some of those guys with the dead scopes might make their money back parting out their scopes to those of us with working ones. I figure the front end Cat lens which is PVS-4 compatible is probably worth a 1-300 just by itself. Yeah, it appears that someone cleaned the ocular with sand paper. -grin- It'd pretty bad, and has certainly screwed up the lens coating. |
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Posted: 6/14/2016 7:16:22 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Anyone have a source on A.R.M.S. #07 mounts? I've looked everywhere it seems and no one has any in stock. I'd rather not spend 2 to 3 times that for the #19 mount especially when I'd like to get two mounts. Placed an order with SWFA because I thought they were in stock but they're not. Any manufacturers feel like doing a special run of adapters to mount STANAG optics on a Picatinny rail? I should keep this for myself but I can't help but share seeing all the good info I have received from this forum. http://www.tarheelordnance.com/store/page5.html I got one and it was as good of a deal as it looks. |
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Posted: 6/14/2016 10:21:21 PM EDT
[#46]
Well UPS came to my house right at 6pm to deliver my scope set. Initial inspection showed storage wear along with some light usage on the exterior of the night scope (VNP009 EE) but was better than what I was expecting. I popped in 2 batteries on one side and a reason that I can't think of I looked through the ocular and saw that the scope was turned on...luckily the end cap was on otherwise I could've damaged or fried the tube. It was my fault for not making sure the unit was off before installing any batteries, but I did learn that both the tube and reticle will work with only 2 batteries instead of all 4. I went into the bathroom (it has no windows) and was able to take off the end cap in there and luckily I didn't see any defects in the tube. The focus was way off, just like pretty much everyone else so I had to wait until dark to take it outside to adjust that and also to see how it really performs. My thought of all of the focus's being off is that these were refurbished before going into storage and at the time it wasn't feasible to adjust the focus on "X" amount of scopes and is easy enough to do when they come out of storage and get issued.
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Posted: 6/14/2016 10:22:08 PM EDT
[#47]
I just got back inside from playing with it for about 20 minutes. The focus was very easy to adjust (mine has the phillips set screw) and once set I can focus on an object 10 yards away, which is the inner fence that keeps our dog from shitting everywhere in our back yard. Image quality is very good and I keep the gain at the lowest setting. The reticle is pretty large but is very sharp with no "fuzz" around it. For giggles I turned on one of my IR illuminators and that really lit up looking through the scope. It appears that I got a really good one. I picked up a day filter from ebay and I should have it tomorrow and once I get a mount I'll be able to zero it at the range without having to sneak in after hours. Overall IMO this has to be one of the best purchases I have made and wish that I had more money at the time to buy 1 or 2 more sets. 1 of the battery lids was more than likely over tightened as some small pieces of plastic fell out on to my floor when I was installing the batteries and is no longer captive but at least I'm still able to install the cover. If anyone that has a DOA unit and is thinking of parting theirs out I would like to buy the battery covers as I have a feeling that either I will lose one when changing batteries in the dark when I'm out hunting or it will end up shattering from the stress cracks from over tightening. I can put up some pics if there is any interest and can try to get some looking through the scope.
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Posted: 6/14/2016 10:23:28 PM EDT
[#48]
The day scope isn't that rough cosmetically and optically very clear and sharp. I did remove the rear eye guard and front rubber cap as the little connector between the ring and cap was broken...and the fact that I "don't do" eye guards IMO made the scope look more modern. I did remove it from the STANAG mount and tried a set of 30mm rings...and found out that they were a little too small. 34mm might work but since I don't have any 34mm rings lying around I can't say for sure. I don't know what I'm going to do with the day scope at the moment but right now I'm leaning towards selling it.
**I had to break this up into 3 separate posts because I'm limited to 2000 characters per post...hopefully that'll get lifted sometime soon** |
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Posted: 6/14/2016 11:08:42 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The day scope isn't that rough cosmetically and optically very clear and sharp. I did remove the rear eye guard and front rubber cap as the little connector between the ring and cap was broken...and the fact that I "don't do" eye guards IMO made the scope look more modern. I did remove it from the STANAG mount and tried a set of 30mm rings...and found out that they were a little too small. 34mm might work but since I don't have any 34mm rings lying around I can't say for sure. I don't know what I'm going to do with the day scope at the moment but right now I'm leaning towards selling it. **I had to break this up into 3 separate posts because I'm limited to 2000 characters per post...hopefully that'll get lifted sometime soon** |
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Posted: 6/15/2016 2:01:36 AM EDT
[#50]
Well I didn't win the ENOSA lottery, But I guess it could be worse. Received my kit today and checked everything out in daylight, both scopes look as if they have seen HARD use, with the day scope the worst of the two. It's missing a lot of paint, has some huge scratches/gouges in the body and a lot of wear on the scope turrents. The glass looks to be clear and the reticle appears solid, but their are two large dark dots, irregularly sized, one on either side of the upper vertical line. I have no clue what they are or how to get rid of them. Crappy cell phone pic attached. The rubber on both ends is torn.
The night scope I received is a VNP-009EE, and it's fairly beat up too, though not as badly as the day scope. One battery cover is cracked on the side all the way through and has corrosion on the battery contacts on the cap. Tried batteries on that side and power was intermittent, whether from the corrosion or the damaged cap I don't know. Since the other side is undamaged and works with the batteries it's a project for another day. The reticle is pretty bad. There are probably a dozen or more random marks that light up with the reticle. I removed the reticle assembly and the side with the silver film on it is obviously damaged, Since I don't have a replacement reticle I just put it back for now. I'm considering a replacement AN/PVS-4 reticle, I've read that it should just drop in. Once it got dark out I tried the scope out outside, I had the same focus issues as others, I believe I have it fixed using the instructions provided down the board. I have almost no experience with night vision so I'm not really in a position to judge the image quality, the scope works but there seems to be a bright "dot" almost dead center of the image, if I turn the gain up it just gets brighter. Meh. The accessories and hard case are "ok". APEX was clear about what to expect, it's still worth the money. |
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