Even with shipping its still a dollar a shot....guess I will just have to keep waiting. Im going to email Kevin and see if he knows why its shooting so bad mayne even send him my rifle.

CBC at PSA.

Got the SOPMOD painted and installed. I think I prefer the A1, but nice to have options.






I dropped the exposure by one stop on this one, and it's more reminiscent of the actual color:

 

 

Just buy a box of the real deal Mk262. The cheapest I've ever found it was $.85 or so and that was quite a while ago and I bought in bulk, I think $1ea is about where its always been.  It's only available in 50 round boxes commercially, 20rd brown boxes for the .mil.  Even if you only want 10 rounds of it now the rest will be nice to have on hand.  I use Mk262 as my benchmark for testing other ammo, it chronographs and shoots so consistently it makes for an easy control group.

I can't imagine a rifle from HCS not shooting.  Have you checked all the usual stuff and tried a variety of ammo?

If you're mechanically inclined and tooled up to do it properly: check barrel torque.

That's in my top 3 favorite mod 1 clones i've ever seen in it's current layout, no joke. The other 2 being RTUtah's brown beast and Dangerdan's mod 1.

Mk 12 mod I had enough parts to do another sorta is well under way...

 

My plan was for the Knights rail, but I just couldn't bring myself to pull one out of the wild and not put it on a mod 1. I will take my chainsaw in stride... I jumped on one of those ba 16" so it's gonna be real chainsaw worthy in a few days.

Don't cut that rail for KAC 600m, I'd trade you if you want for mine already milled out for it.



 

appreciate the offer, but no cutting of this one. Just gonna run a 3.5x10 that's it.

FWIW and for anyone that's interested re: correct gas blocks:

Because the gas block on the MK 12 MOD 1 is exposed, the profile of the gas block itself is fairly prominent - and not all low profile gas blocks are the same.

For reference - a 2010 NSWC-Crane solicitation for MK 12 gas blocks:

https://www.fbo.gov/?s=opportunity&mode=form&id=740629fb06e654c7ff2549b98f679076&tab=core&_cview=1

The attachments to the solicitation also include a .PDF blueprint for the MK 12 gas block - so, conceivably - anyone with the proper materials, equipment, and skills could manufacture a "MIL-SPEC" MK 12 gas block if they so desired:




Insofar that some may care more than others about a "true" MIL-SPEC Crane gas block - FWIW - the DD and Badger seem to be true "MIL-SPEC" MK 12 gas blocks in and that they use both the right materials (416 stainless, black oxide) and the right profile/dimensions:



https://danieldefense.com/components-parts/mk12-low-profile-gas-block.html




https://www.badgerordnance.com/products/manifold-gas-mk-12-spr-34-bbls-416-stainless-steel-black-oxide-issue-item-2/


The Damage Industries gas block appears to be the correct profile - but is not the correct materials (4140 billet, phosphate finish)*:



http://damageindustriesllc.com/product/ar15m16m4-gas-block-low-profile-0750-barrels

*Damage appears to have two photographs in their listing for the low-profile gas block - one that looks correct, and one that looks incorrect - I am not sure which one they sell now - however, when I got one a few years ago - it was the correct profiled-style.  

ETA: (As of 07 JAN 14)

The KAC, in fact, is not the right profile - or at least, it doesn't appear to match the Crane drawings very well:




Most other low profile gas blocks on the market also do not seem to match the profile/drawings of the Crane gas block:

BCM -




YHM -




Noveske -




Troy -




DSA -




The most obvious difference between the "correct" gas blocks, and other common low-profile gas blocks that have the same "general" form factor is whether or not the gas tube hole goes all the way through the gas block - and the "depth" of the gas block, which is most obvious when viewed from the front - and expresses itself in the width of the flat portion at the bottom where the set-screws are attached - with KAC having the widest "base," the "correct" profile being slightly wider, and most common low-profile gas blocks being quite narrow.  

As for which one clone builders should or must get?  

That's up to you guys.  

~Augee

Damage had sold both styles, but they dropped the Mk12 some time mid/late last year.

Finally got all my parts. I got too excited and mocked everything up hand tight...will be assembled properly soon.

Parts List:

High Caliber Sales Barrel w/ Bolt
Colt M4 Upper Receiver SP63528
Colt Bolt Carrier Group SP64028
PRI Front Sight Gas Block Set Screw Style
PRI Gen III Handguard
PRI Gas Buster
Allen Engineering Brake and Collar
A.R.M.S. #38 SPR-PEQ-2-3
A.R.M.S. #40STD A2 BUIS
A.R.M.S. #22 Medium 30MM Rings
A.R.M.S. #22 TRC
A.R.M.S. #22 TRR
A.R.M.S. #32 Harris Bipod Adaptor
Colt/USGI Tear Drop Forward Assist Assembly
Colt A2 Buttstock Kit - Forged Receiver Extension (Didn't use the A2 stock)
Colt M16A1 Buttstock w/ Hardware
Colt M16A1 Pistol Grip
Colt LPK
Geissele SSA (Not installed on this receiver)
Leupold 67950 Mark 4 LR/T 3.5-10x40mm M3 Illum. TMR
Nodak Spud NDS-16A1 receivers, one has a Colt receiver extension kit with Sopmod stock and a CAR stock, the other is the one pictured with the A1 stock.


Teaser:

That's a nice list of parts.

I did not buy the complete upper from kevin just the barrel, rail, and suppressor. I have tried everything under the sun except using 262 ammo and barrel nut torque. How crucial is barrel nut torque because when I brought the upper up to my local gun store to put the barrel on (didn't have a barrel nut wrench at the time) I saw the guy do it and he was literally hanging from the wrench with all his body weight hanging on the wrench trying to get it tighter. Thats when I stopped him asked him what the hell he was doing. He said he was trying to get the holes lined up for the gas tube and that it was perfectly normal behavior that they need to be "good n tight". What are the barrel nut torque recommendations? I may just see if I can send the whole thing to Kevin and see if he can sort it out.

Some news about ballistic advantage: http://www.whitewolfcapital.com/news.html

Aero making a move towards full rifle offerings? Maybe .308 barrels to compete with Mega Arms?

BA has been an OEM barrel maker for a LONG time, supplying Spike's with barrels way back when. In fact they are located right across the street from Spike's old location.

Seems BA has been making barrels for Aero recently and the owner of Aero decided to invest in them to expand and maybe get some choice operations going for Aero.

Solid Always enjoy your revelations on the Mk12, Augee.

Good shit right dur.

 

I was starting to type out a response on barrel torquing but I wasn't making sense as I was reading it back to my self.......

Do a google search for torquing a barrel nut.  They can explain it better than me.

It is possible that it's over torqued or worse.  I tried going "one more hole" on my last KAC long RAS and I had to stop at 80 because I wasn't even half way there.  The previous hole was around the mid range KAC recommended in the instructions.  If he was hanging off the breaker bar you might have a fractured nut, or just are out of spec.  Good luck getting that off.  Frustrating I know.

I just went through this myself on my Mod 0. The KAC rail was a PITA before I went back to the Mod 0, I kept overdoing the torque and got a crooked rail

BUT, this time in putting it back together the Mod 0, I set my torque wrench to 45lbs and torqued till it clicked. I was still a bit off, so I just upped it by very small incriments, like 1-2 ft/lbs. one or two rounds of that got me right on the money, PRI nut was properly timed and I probably was barely over 45-50 ft/lbs.

Main thing is that if you torque it down and don't like where it ends up, un torque and try again. You shouldn't have to go to 80 ft/lbs to get the nut timed.

Just FWIW and in that case, I've updated the post to reflect Hunterex's more recent feedback on the Damage gas block.  

It's unfortunate, though - I thought it was a good value for a correctly profiled gas block, despite not being the correct 416 SS.  

Now that I've posted the prints - someone with much more mechanical skill than I should do a small run of MIL-SPEC Crane gas blocks for members of this thread...  






~Augee

 

Correct you are sir. 30 ft lbs minimum, not to exceed 80 ft lbs. I set mine to 30, and adjust accordingly to get it timed with the tube, usually end up within 50-60

I have zero mechanical skills, but put me down for two if this gains any momentum.

From the mfg mine was in the 30lb neighborhood and did great. It held .5 MOA, never any problems.

When I stripped and rebuilt it on a Colt upper, I ended up at 67lbs. So there are some variances in spec with different uppers. I think mfgs are going on the safe side (which is good).

Just find where yours sits.  In my opinion the tighter the better.

 

Oh now.....

Just finished my upper. I have it mounted on my block II lower for now, NDS won't have any A1 lowers for a couple months. And if it ever warms up to near freezing I'll be able to get out and shoot it. Paint will come after I get the proper lower.

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Per instructions from TM 9-1005-319-23&P for torquing the barrel nut.

After applying to the barrel nut threads a MIL-G-21164D / NATO G-353 compliant grease; torque the barrel nut to 30 lbs. ft., loosen the barrel nut, re-torque to 30 lbs. ft., loosen the barrel nut once more, and for a final time torque the barrel nut to 30 lbs. ft.

If the gas tube is not centered after the third time torquing the barrel nut, continue torquing the barrel nut to the next notch until the gas tube is centered, but do not go over 80 lbs. ft. of torque if you have to do so. If you go past the next notch of the barrel nut, do not back the barrel nut to get the gas tube centered; instead you'll have to start over by loosening the barrel nut all the way, and redo the torque sequence.

TM 9-1005-319-23&P notes the purpose for the torque sequence of torquing 3 times is to prevent the barrel nut from loosening.

Im gonna try taking it off and re torque it to specs cause I know the way the guy did it just looked horrible. I just hope the moron didnt completely screw everything up when he did it.

Nice job, an A1 profile lower and new coat of paint and it will be tits.

If i use a Leu Mk4 2.5-8x36 M1 would I get roasted in here?
Looking for a med range scope that isn't too long so I can use my clip on and that is illuminated.

http://www.leupold.com/hunting-shooting/scopes/mark-4-mrt-riflescopes/mark-4-2-5-8x36mm-mrt-m1-illum-reticle/

If I'm still here, they won't throw you off the ship.

You're good bro. Just that short of a TS30-A2.....

is that just the m2?

Yep, the TS30-A2 is the Mark 4 MR/T 2.5-8x36 illuminated with M2 knobs.



I *think* the spec is for the Mil-Dot reticle, #67920  (as opposed to the TMR reticle, #67925)

Pic of the block II?

that's perfect sage country camo

Mil-Dot was the 3.5-10 spec, maybe the early 3-9's, but the TS-30A2 is spec'd for the TMR w/Mk262 M2 turrets. It has a different item number than the other 2.5-8's and is listed as the TS-30A2.

LEU112633 is TS-30

Ok….so Ive been following all you guys for years, looking at all the amazing MK12's that have been built and issued, learned everything about the history behind this unique weapon system, and finally got to a point in my build where I feel is worthy of your thread. Ive been in the Military for 7 years, been shooting since I can remember, been building and reloading for quite some time, and ever since I squeezed the trigger that one fine day while training in the desert…..I knew I had to own this amazing Special Purpose Rifle. I went with a Leupold Mark4 3.5-10 to better suite my needs, and felt an 8 power wasn't gonna cut it. I have read on here and several other places that a 3.5-10 would be clone correct for a mod1, and if I can recall, the one I got to play with back in 09' I think maxed out at 10. So…..I really hope it is cause I saved up for a long time to buy it. Thanks for all the help guys!!! " />

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