AR Sponsor
Official Mk12 Mod0, Mod1, ModH Photo and Discussion Thread (Page 1221 of 1226)
|
@Light1984 Hopefully these are the pics you're wanting.   |
-Things do not happen. Things are made to happen. -JFK
-Beware the fury of a patient man.
-Thousands and thousands of laws....All for just ten commandments.
-"alot" is not a word.
-Beware the fury of a patient man.
-Thousands and thousands of laws....All for just ten commandments.
-"alot" is not a word.
|
Originally Posted By Trunks: Man, they almost had everything right, this is mad unfortunate. If there's any chance someone would be willing to to replicate the inserts and press them into the new PRI rails, I'd be willing to pay for it. I think if we are going to that length, we should talk about refinishing it before the steel inserts go in. I thought about reaching out to the gentlemen that does anodizing for intl Milco to see if he can match the ARMS grey. He did my Colt lower and it is absolutely amazing. Edit: talked the man. He thinks he can match the gray. If anyone wants to get weird with me let me know. Discount for batch anodizing. |
|
Originally Posted By Engineer5: @Light1984 Hopefully these are the pics you're wanting. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/84711/PXL_20260213_000746338_MACRO_FOCUS-3712238.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/84711/PXL_20260213_000646462_MACRO_FOCUS-3712237.jpg Those are exactly it. Thank you so much. Looks like the culprit of the gap in my case isn't the new PRI rail but my new production #40. Off to look for a wingless I guess... Damnit this hobby is expensive. Attached File |
|
Originally Posted By Light1984: Just received the gen 2 peq rail from PRI. Please see pictures below. It looks to not have the steel inserts pressed in like the ARMS units and it doesn't quite mate up to the #40 as nice as I would have liked. Color is also black, not the grey finish of the ARMS. All that said, it looks great from a few feet away and will work for now until a reasonably priced ARMS comes my way. Request: can someone with a genuine ARMS rail take a picture of the area circled in red? I think I remember seeing this area trimmed a little so that the rail sits more flush to the #40 rear sight. So went back to read the description and I think there might be a QC issue. They're supposed to have the pressed inserts according to the page itself, you might want to reach out to customer service and have it sent back so they can make those corrections. |
|
Originally Posted By Trunks: So went back to read the description and I think there might be a QC issue. They're supposed to have the pressed inserts according to the page itself, you might want to reach out to customer service and have it sent back so they can make those corrections. Never mind, belay my last, I had the wrong page pulled up  
|
|
Originally Posted By Light1984: That's the weird part though, why would they do inserts on only certain 38s? They should all have them right? Honestly, yeah they should. I thought the point of these rails was to make them as accurate to the original as possible. Everything else is so so dang close, so why not go through the extra effort to install the inserts? |
|
Originally Posted By Trunks: Honestly, yeah they should. I thought the point of these rails was to make them as accurate to the original as possible. Everything else is so so dang close, so why not go through the extra effort to install the inserts? I dont understand it either. The only people who care about the difference between their normal top rail and the #38 (and pay like 2x as much) are people doing a clone. I'm not sure how they keep getting it wrong... I received mine today, going to email them and respectfully ask wtf
|
|
Originally Posted By Jarth: I dont understand it either. The only people who care about the difference between their normal top rail and the #38 (and pay like 2x as much) are people doing a clone. I'm not sure how they keep getting it wrong... I received mine today, going to email them and respectfully ask wtf Will you report back and let us know what they say? Curious if it's first run hiccups or they genuinely just missed the mark. |
|
Originally Posted By Engineer5: @Light1984 Hopefully these are the pics you're wanting. Very useful photos. Different inserts in an actual PEQ MOD L, which is great, those just like like helicoils. If you get a chance to take a pic from the bottom of the same hole would appreciate it. I ordered one as well and I'm guessing mine is going to be straight threaded just like yours, I'm definitely going to email them about it. I think one of you asked, any machine shop is going to be able to do that once we measure the right dimensions but thats at least an hour of shop time plus insert material cost (if its just a helicoil thats prolly like $5) plus probably you want to refinish it in the right color, it's just a great deal of cost. |
|
Originally Posted By Light1984: I think if we are going to that length, we should talk about refinishing it before the steel inserts go in. I thought about reaching out to the gentlemen that does anodizing for intl Milco to see if he can match the ARMS grey. He did my Colt lower and it is absolutely amazing. Edit: talked the man. He thinks he can match the gray. If anyone wants to get weird with me let me know. Discount for batch anodizing. Yeah I mean if he does low volume stuff there's a bunch of stuff I'd like to get redone, like imc lowers that were engraved post-ano. I was actually just thinking cerakote. I've been looking for a cloner anodizer (low volume, knows the colors), it's a rare thing really gotta find someone whos into the hobby cuz there's not much money in it. If I were to re-ano the PRI 38 I'd probably try to fix the engravings on the side too before refinish, like maybe add the swan and the mill out a pocket and laser the arms text. Benefit of cerakote would be I can prolly expoy and sand smooth the PRI markings well enough you couldn't see them after paint. But we gotta figure out the insert dimensions first. I'm pretty sure its a 10-32 helicoil based on Engineer5's reference photo, but need to know what the hole underneath looks like and how long helicoil goes in. Also note that in the white or NiB were also legit for really really early Mod 0s, I think I've seen that. That might set off nicely against your clear tano lower looks like unless your gonna krylon the thing after. It's also possible to weld the drilled holes on the FSGB and redrill and reprofile to the right dimensions, or maybe just ask PRI if they wanna sell us some undrilled ones we can go and get right. Should be a straightforward weld I think the base is either cast or forged carbon steel. |
|
Originally Posted By Light1984: I think if we are going to that length, we should talk about refinishing it before the steel inserts go in. I thought about reaching out to the gentlemen that does anodizing for intl Milco to see if he can match the ARMS grey. He did my Colt lower and it is absolutely amazing. Awesome! I'd be down for that. |
I got the PRI PEQ rail in anndd... they are threaded through holes just like yours, all of them. Good news is everything else other than the maker's marks looks spot on (other than the color). The forward arrow mark on the rail clamp is sightly different and there's no forward arrow mark on the removable pic rail, but even I am not autistic enough to care about that. This is gonna be a long shot but @Engineer5 or anyone else with an actual ARMS item, any chance you can help us out with these measurements? There's 4 different threaded hole types which I color coded. I know Red and Green have an insert. Pink, that last one, is drilled through thinner material just wondering it is any different from the Green. And the two Yellow ones are for the pic rail section, I don't know if those have an insert or are just threaded holes on the ARMS. I've seen different things from different photos but the most general hole shape is in the side view, the insert doesn't seem to run the length of the hole so there's an unthreaded portion below it. I'm looking for the depths A, B, C and the widths X, Y, Z. Could be the bottom isn't countersunk so C = 0 and Y = Z, etc., but I don't know. Seems like on Engineer5's there is only a very slight countersink on top with A very small and X almost the same as the threaded portion. I'm just going to assume that the threaded portion is the right dimension for the helicoil of the right size and the chamfer angle is 82deg, but if that seems wrong would also love to know. |
|
Originally Posted By Slu54: I got the PRI PEQ rail in anndd... they are threaded through holes just like yours, all of them. Good news is everything else other than the maker's marks looks spot on (other than the color). The forward arrow mark on the rail clamp is sightly different and there's no forward arrow mark on the removable pic rail, but even I am not autistic enough to care about that. This is gonna be a long shot but @Engineer5 or anyone else with an actual ARMS item, any chance you can help us out with these measurements? https://i.postimg.cc/HTpV7MLJ/38-MEASURE.jpg There's 4 different threaded hole types which I color coded. I know Red and Green have an insert. Pink, that last one, is drilled through thinner material just wondering it is any different from the Green. And the two Yellow ones are for the pic rail section, I don't know if those have an insert or are just threaded holes on the ARMS. I've seen different things from different photos but the most general hole shape is in the side view, the insert doesn't seem to run the length of the hole so there's an unthreaded portion below it. I'm looking for the depths A, B, C and the widths X, Y, Z. Could be the bottom isn't countersunk so C = 0 and Y = Z, etc., but I don't know. Seems like on Engineer5's there is only a very slight countersink on top with A very small and X almost the same as the threaded portion. I'm just going to assume that the threaded portion is the right dimension for the helicoil of the right size and the chamfer angle is 82deg, but if that seems wrong would also love to know. This is next level autism, I love it! Just keep in mind that we have to anodize after machining but before the steel goes in. |
|
Originally Posted By Light1984: Will you report back and let us know what they say? Curious if it's first run hiccups or they genuinely just missed the mark. attention to detail is HARD |
|
Originally Posted By Light1984: Will you report back and let us know what they say? Curious if it's first run hiccups or they genuinely just missed the mark. I gave them a call yesterday and spoke to their shop manager about possibly modifying some of the rails so they had the 12 pressed lugs (from what it looks like, its 14 in total because the peq cover screws are also held in place by pressed lugs) in the proper attachment points. I should have added we also need to rethread the rear and front threaded holes to accommodate a #10-32 heli coil in the rear and a 1/4-20 heli coil in the front. I'm not sure how interested or willing they're to make those changes, they did give me their email and told me to put down what I would like done to the rail, just waiting on a response. I also asked them if they'd be willing to sell the pressed lugs separately, that way we could have another custom shop work on the rails. Additionally, they said the reason they didn't add the pressed lugs was because they wanted to sell them at a lower price, and that the old attachment slots are not used for anything anymore, so they didn't see any point in adding them. Their team doesn't seem to get that these rails aren't really sought after for practical reason, its more for historical rebuilds. Cloners want something that is as close as possible to the original product, but I guess I'm speaking to the quire here. I also asked the owner of Intl.Mil.Co if they would be interested in modifying the rails, if we could get the raw materials they might be able to help. |
|
One thing I would like to mention, the design of this rail matches what was used on the early gen MK12 Mod 0s. The #38 SPR PEQ-2 MOD-L specifically. From what I can see, the older version didn't even have the pressed lugs like the newer rails do, they used heli coils inside each attachment point. Would it be easier just to resize the #10-32 holes and use heli coils throughout?      |
|
See my post above. Yes based on Engineer5's and the reddit poster photos I think they are helicoils. Definitely easier to do since they are easier to source and dont require any proprietary dimensions for the hole to ensure good fit without damage. The holes are also easy to center with a threaded hole center since they are already threaded. I just need hole dimensions I listed. As you can see from the photos you posted the helicoil does not run the length it is only part way through. If you look at the clamp bar of the PRI sleeve it has two holes with thread inserts, but I'm more interested in getting it exactly like the ARMS. I am also not sure if the two holes holding the removable pic rail section are sleeved (can't tell from the photos you posted since the screws are in), how the last hole differs, and obviously the front larger 1/4"x20 hole. Did PRI share any hole dimensions at least for their insert holes? |
|
Originally Posted By Slu54: Did PRI share any hole dimensions at least for their insert holes? Unfortunately, no. I think you're right, our best way to determine the proper specs is to reach out to someone who could help us get that information. Judging by what I can see, and what A.R.M.S. has done in the past, I would assume the two threaded holes for the PEQ cover also have helicoils. The screws don't seem to be touching the threading on the rail itself. |
|
I apologize, I know this is not a proper clone, but more of a Mod1-inspired build. That said, most of the Leupold M3 knowledge on the webs probably hangs out in this thread. This scope is a Mark 4 LR/T with Mil-Dot reticle and M3 168gr turret. I've had numerous iterations of the 3.5-10x40 M3 over the years and really enjoy the scope. However, since I'm not chasing 100% clone accuracy, and since my eyes are starting to show their age (I was blessed to go 42 years with no correction and 20/15 vision), I'm considering in the very least custom ordering a turret to match this rifle's trajectory and maybe even flipping the scope to buy something with a little more magnification and better glass like an NX8 2-20. 1. Has anyone ordered a custom turret for their M3 recently? I talked to Leupold last week and they told me it could still be done. Messing with an online calculator it appears this 168gr .308 turret tracks with 77gr OTM out to about 500, and then the .223 falls off and needs some more elevation. 2. Values on these scopes are all over the place. Some are going for insane money. I believe this one isn't technically "correct" because it's not illuminated, but even the fact that it's an M3 seems to have values getting up there. What's a good target price? 
|
|
Originally Posted By Bullseye_Doc_Holiday: 1. Has anyone ordered a custom turret for their M3 recently? I talked to Leupold last week and they told me it could still be done. Messing with an online calculator it appears this 168gr .308 turret tracks with 77gr OTM out to about 500, and then the .223 falls off and needs some more elevation. That's interesting if Leupold said they could do a custom M3 turret. I thought the custom shop was closed. The correct turret for the 3.5-10 mk4 is pictured below and super rare. If they could reproduce that it would be amazing. Any chance you saved the info of the person you talked to? Attached File |
|
Originally Posted By Light1984: That's interesting if Leupold said they could do a custom M3 turret. I thought the custom shop was closed. The correct turret for the 3.5-10 mk4 is pictured below and super rare. If they could reproduce that it would be amazing. Any chance you saved the info of the person you talked to? https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/80236/1000003252_png-3716226.JPG I didn't unfortunately. It started through their CDS portal, but then pivoted into a phone call with customer service where he acknowledged that a CDS turret was not what I needed, but confirmed that they could make me a turret for this scope. |
|
Originally Posted By Bullseye_Doc_Holiday: I didn't unfortunately. It started through their CDS portal, but then pivoted into a phone call with customer service where he acknowledged that a CDS turret was not what I needed, but confirmed that they could make me a turret for this scope. That's kind of a huge deal. I'll see if I can duplicate your experience and report back. Going to buy 5 or more if they can do it, lol. Edit: ok just got off the phone with them, they said they can do a custom dial for the exposed M3 turret, but it won't physically look like the originals. He said it wouldn't be clone correct. So they are basically using a CDS dial that works on the M3 style turret. |
|
Originally Posted By Light1984: That's kind of a huge deal. I'll see if I can duplicate your experience and report back. Going to buy 5 or more if they can do it, lol. Edit: ok just got off the phone with them, they said they can do a custom dial for the exposed M3 turret, but it won't physically look like the originals. He said it wouldn't be clone correct. So they are basically using a CDS dial that works on the M3 style turret. Well that's a bummer. Thanks for confirming and reporting back. |
|
Do they sell turret blanks we can engrave ourselves? There's a cottage industry forming around quasi-custom clone stuff, its too small for the makes to care about and its too small for anyone to make a living off of but this is my hobby anyway and the work is all very straightforward stuff if we can get some semblance of supply chain. |
|
Originally Posted By Light1984: Will you report back and let us know what they say? Curious if it's first run hiccups or they genuinely just missed the mark. This was PRI's response to my email: "We designed it off the original one that I have in my office that was one of the originals. No inserts. There were several variation from inserts to hecoils." I'm guessing they have a Gen 2 with no inserts like in Trunks picture above and just decided to make them all like that. I also asked if I could send it back to have the inserts installed and he didn't respond to that part, so sounds like they aren't interested in going any further with it. 
|
|
Originally Posted By Slu54: Do they sell turret blanks we can engrave ourselves? There's a cottage industry forming around quasi-custom clone stuff, its too small for the makes to care about and its too small for anyone to make a living off of but this is my hobby anyway and the work is all very straightforward stuff if we can get some semblance of supply chain. Now this is a very good idea. I thought about ordering blanks after getting off the phone them. I bet they do have some. How would we go about getting them engraved/printed on properly? If we could source someone to do the latter, we could get a bunch done for cloners wanting the M3 SPR one and the Mod1 versions. I'll reach out to them to see if I can purchase some blanks. Let me know if you have any leads on printing/laser engraving. |
Strength Determination Merciless Forever
Joined:
Oct 2009
Posts:
29794
EE: 100% (234)
PA, USA
|
Originally Posted By Into_the_Void: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/220444/1000013135_jpg-3717412.JPG Sweet! CAR stock on a SPR is the chef's kiss Attached File |
|
Originally Posted By walkinginadangerzone: Anyone know where I can get a colt stripped upper with the BCG? Back in the day it was with sharkarms, but last I heard they went down hill. New ones? Brownells, Midway, Arms Unlimited, I have a handful if you want to buy one. They are all gonna be dot matrix laser engraved with cage code. For a raised C/stamped C that's a bit more clone appropriate you'd have to check the clone DRMO dealers like Thoroughbred or Wetworx. Here's a C marked BCG: https://www.rooftopdefense.com/product/colt-full-auto-m16-bolt-carrier-group-c-marked/ |
Strength Determination Merciless Forever
Joined:
Oct 2009
Posts:
29854
EE: 100% (234)
PA, USA
|
Originally Posted By teamjawbox: Sweet! CAR stock on a SPR is the chef's kiss https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/343681/IMG_4797_Copy_JPG-3717736.JPG Originally Posted By teamjawbox: Originally Posted By Into_the_Void: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/220444/1000013135_jpg-3717412.JPG Sweet! CAR stock on a SPR is the chef's kiss https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/343681/IMG_4797_Copy_JPG-3717736.JPG It is the sexiest, but functionally I hate it, especially when using bags |
|
I've been sitting on this unfinished Mk12 Mod 1 for about 10 months now. The optic is the only thing left. I've been holding out for a Nightforce NXS 2.5-10x24 because I want a Navy build and I’d like to use my NF 30mm rings and the JPOINT RDS in the Baldknobber Armament Wilcox repro mount I bought for this. There are like three 2.5-10x24s on the secondhand market right now: one has an undesirable reticle and the other two are basically $3K. I'm starting to think I'm never going to get the scope I had hoped for and am now considering a non-clone correct NXS 2.5-10x42. With the 42's length, I'm guessing that it will hang off the back of the upper receiver if I want to retain the NF rings and not mount the front ring on the handguard (is this still considered a bad practice because of flex?) Would welcome input here; I hate to settle but I want to have a shootable rifle and with so many clone builds using the 2.5-10x24, finding one for $2K or less seems like a pipe dream. 
|
|
Originally Posted By Bowhntr6pt: Questions for those in the know... 1. Does A.R.M.S. still make the #22 rings (high I suppose is what I need for a Mod 1)? 2. If yes, what are the best places to get in line? Thanks Yes #22H rings, but they make them in pretty small batches. I'd recommend looking at a few different sites that offer them and subscribe to their in stock notification. Note: Please do NOT support the Gunbroker or eBay scalpers online that are charging $300+ for these rings, they're not worth that. Also, they only make the lever stop versions now, so if you want the original profile you'll need to do one of these 2 things: * Buy an old original non-lever stop set, these are running $400 - $600 from what I have seen. * Find a lever stop version, have someone machine the lever-stops out (clonechinist and a few others on here can do it), and refinish the rings. I'd recommend Norrell's Grayish-Black Colt Flat if you want to keep the grey finish, there are a few extra steps if you go that route. |
|
Originally Posted By AZ_SBR: I've been sitting on this unfinished Mk12 Mod 1 for about 10 months now. The optic is the only thing left. I've been holding out for a Nightforce NXS 2.5-10x24 because I want a Navy build and I’d like to use my NF 30mm rings and the JPOINT RDS in the Baldknobber Armament Wilcox repro mount I bought for this. There are like three 2.5-10x24s on the secondhand market right now: one has an undesirable reticle and the other two are basically $3K. I'm starting to think I'm never going to get the scope I had hoped for and am now considering a non-clone correct NXS 2.5-10x42. With the 42's length, I'm guessing that it will hang off the back of the upper receiver if I want to retain the NF rings and not mount the front ring on the handguard (is this still considered a bad practice because of flex?) Would welcome input here; I hate to settle but I want to have a shootable rifle and with so many clone builds using the 2.5-10x24, finding one for $2K or less seems like a pipe dream. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55119157993_964d170588_b.jpg Have you ever shot a 2.5-10x24? If so, ignore the following. I've had one, and it was not a pleasant experience. It's similar to the NX8 1-8. It's not un-useable, but it's not exactly a stellar experience. That optic trades form factor and footprint for forgiveness. I've never shot a X42, but I have also had a X32 and it was noticeably better than the x24. Personally I prefer the Leupold M3 to either. The X42 may be better yet. I would not recommend bridging onto the hand guard. I'd bet you'd see some POI shift varying with pressure shot to shot. |
|
Originally Posted By AZ_SBR: I've been sitting on this unfinished Mk12 Mod 1 for about 10 months now. The optic is the only thing left. I've been holding out for a Nightforce NXS 2.5-10x24 because I want a Navy build and I’d like to use my NF 30mm rings and the JPOINT RDS in the Baldknobber Armament Wilcox repro mount I bought for this. There are like three 2.5-10x24s on the secondhand market right now: one has an undesirable reticle and the other two are basically $3K. I'm starting to think I'm never going to get the scope I had hoped for and am now considering a non-clone correct NXS 2.5-10x42. With the 42's length, I'm guessing that it will hang off the back of the upper receiver if I want to retain the NF rings and not mount the front ring on the handguard (is this still considered a bad practice because of flex?) Would welcome input here; I hate to settle but I want to have a shootable rifle and with so many clone builds using the 2.5-10x24, finding one for $2K or less seems like a pipe dream. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55119157993_964d170588_b.jpg Donate more blood/semen.  For now, just get something on it so you can enjoy shooting it while you keep searching/put away more cash. |
God will not look you over for medals, diplomas, or degrees – but for scars
|
Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: Donate more blood/semen. For now, just get something on it so you can enjoy shooting it while you keep searching/put away more cash. Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: Originally Posted By AZ_SBR: I've been sitting on this unfinished Mk12 Mod 1 for about 10 months now. The optic is the only thing left. I've been holding out for a Nightforce NXS 2.5-10x24 because I want a Navy build and I’d like to use my NF 30mm rings and the JPOINT RDS in the Baldknobber Armament Wilcox repro mount I bought for this. There are like three 2.5-10x24s on the secondhand market right now: one has an undesirable reticle and the other two are basically $3K. I'm starting to think I'm never going to get the scope I had hoped for and am now considering a non-clone correct NXS 2.5-10x42. With the 42's length, I'm guessing that it will hang off the back of the upper receiver if I want to retain the NF rings and not mount the front ring on the handguard (is this still considered a bad practice because of flex?) Would welcome input here; I hate to settle but I want to have a shootable rifle and with so many clone builds using the 2.5-10x24, finding one for $2K or less seems like a pipe dream. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55119157993_964d170588_b.jpg Donate more blood/semen. For now, just get something on it so you can enjoy shooting it while you keep searching/put away more cash. How much you paying for semen? Asking for a frie….aw, hell…I’m asking for me I’ll second the M3 recommendation. Could also grab a M4 3.5-10x and pretend you stole it off a bolt gun from the armory like I did with my Mod 0  Or get the little 2.5-8x on the Mod H. I like both very much. Attached File |
Been working on a MK12 Mod 0 and a deployment kit for a while now, just about got everything except the suppressor and the mildot master. Need to do some work on the top rail as discussed above, would also like to reprofile the FSB to match the earlier MK12's from 1999-2001.   |
|
Originally Posted By Trunks: Been working on a MK12 Mod 0 and a deployment kit for a while now, just about got everything except the suppressor and the mildot master. Need to do some work on the top rail as discussed above, would also like to also reprofile the FSB to match the earlier MK12's from 1999-2001. https://i.imgur.com/lBCpEOa.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/6YdFwkW.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/dvlMWpC.jpeg Bitchin' 
|
God will not look you over for medals, diplomas, or degrees – but for scars
Strength Determination Merciless Forever
Joined:
Oct 2009
Posts:
29856
EE: 100% (234)
PA, USA
|
Originally Posted By Into_the_Void: Those labels look awfully fresh https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/220444/20190826_160016_jpg-3720644.JPG They are, each tag and label you see is a reproduction I found online. |
Member
Joined:
Feb 2023
Posts:
553
EE: 100% (3)
PA, USA
| Yes, that's the right latch. The engravings aren't the same as on the originals, they are coming out with an updated version with the correct markings at some point though, they had some examples at Clone Rifles back in October. If you want it to be super autistic I'd wait for those to come out, and if you wanted to shoot in the meantime then buy a normal gasbuster and use that until they get the proper ones in (I really like the combat latch model, have them on two of my rifles). If the difference in markings doesn't matter to you then yeah go ahead and get that one |
Collector, historian, and enthusiast of A.R.M.S. rails, mounts, and accessories.
|
Originally Posted By thatARMSguy: Yes, that's the right latch. The engravings aren't the same as on the originals, they are coming out with an updated version with the correct markings at some point though, they had some examples at Clone Rifles back in October. If you want it to be super autistic I'd wait for those to come out, and if you wanted to shoot in the meantime then buy a normal gasbuster and use that until they get the proper ones in (I really like the combat latch model, have them on two of my rifles). If the difference in markings doesn't matter to you then yeah go ahead and get that one Thanks! Been shooting it with a car stock and a Griffen charging handle while I get my socom stock sorted out. By the way, thanks everybody here that’s helped me out. Running down the parts has been the most fun. So much fun I’m sourcing mod 0 parts. |
Official Mk12 Mod0, Mod1, ModH Photo and Discussion Thread (Page 1221 of 1226)
AR Sponsor