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Posted: 5/9/2021 2:11:11 AM EDT
Or at least keep track of the turns on your z axis in the mill. Attached File
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I know someone else who did that. I watched him do it. It sucked.
If you use a self contained FCG ("cassette" or "drop-in" style) that doesn't require tension against the floor of the receiver, you can still hobble along. |
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Quoted: I know someone else who did that. I watched him do it. It sucked. If you use a self contained FCG ("cassette" or "drop-in" style) that doesn't require tension against the floor of the receiver, you can still hobble along. View Quote I think I'm gonna try a small roll pin to create a false floor for the spring to rest on. If it doesn't work I'm only out a a $0.99 pin in addition to the $99 lower. |
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Good chance your end mill pulled out of your collet a little bit.
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On the plus side, popped primers won't get stuck in the trigger group.
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That would motivate me to purchase a DRO.
It's metal there for fixable. |
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Well, at least you won’t have to worry about a popped primer jamming up the fcg
Eta, beat like a rented mule!! |
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Bolt on a floor plate for the perfect start of your Steampunk build.
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@OP
Flat sheet metal cut to a paper templet with capture legs can be dropped in to create the right floor height. Strategically placed new holes on the sides of the lower would allow you to make fold through locking tabs on the legs to keep the sheet metal in place without taking up space in critical areas. Downward pressure from the trigger spring will prevent rattle. I'd probably use stainless steel for strength and corrosion resistance. |
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Bolt some clear plexiglass in the bottom through the sides. The windowed looked might catch on.
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Quoted: fill the void with J-B Weld MarineWeld and re-mill it. View Quote I had a mill bit come loose and ended up with half the bottom about as thick as a soda can. I did a layer of JB Weld and machined it again. I also had a lower with oversize hammer and trigger pin holes. Once again JB Weld and a cassette fire control group with anti-rotation pins. Drilled and tapped into the cassette and added screws to solidly anchor it. Ugly but functional! Attached File Attached File |
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We’ve ALL done that on one receiver. And Rise RA-140 triggers are your friend.
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I did mine with a drill press. I put a collar on the milling tool that I set to the pocket depth for the jig. Never came close to over cutting the bottom.
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At least it's a non-pressure bearing part. Just weld in a cover plate.
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Ufda.
Cut a piece of aluminum plate to fit, JB weld in place and then cut a trigger slot. Or just chalk it up as a lesson learned and send it to be recycled. |
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Quoted: DRO's on the quill (Z axis) used to be pretty uncommon. Are they readily available now and what is the cost? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: That would motivate me to purchase a DRO. It's metal there for fixable. DRO's on the quill (Z axis) used to be pretty uncommon. Are they readily available now and what is the cost? You can use something like this https://www.amazon.com/iGaging-Digital-Mounting-Bridgeport-Fractions/dp/B07SPW1M47. You'd have to make a collar to fit on the quill but that should be pretty easy. |
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View Quote Bummer. That looks like an expensive billet lower too. |
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Quoted: Bummer. That looks like an expensive billet lower too. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Bummer. That looks like an expensive billet lower too. |
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“Plexiglass floorplate”
Hey good idea, now I want one of those! |
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Don’t bother with the plexiglass. It will look interesting until you shoot it, then it will smoke up and look like crap. Think of the Ruger 10-22 clear mags, after a couple of boxes of ammo they smoke up you can barely see anything through them. Even the clear Lancer mags smoke up pretty quickly and need to be taken apart and cleaned fairly frequently. The Lancers are at least easy to take apart, but not the Ruger’s, and I imagine you’d have to pull the FCG to clean the bottom of the FCG pocket to clean the plexiglass enough to make it worth your time. JB Weld it, hit it with Aluma-hyde or Duracoat and be done with it.
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JB Weld.
Or, use a evil 3D printer to make a insert that you can "glue" in place. I have three 3D printers on order, one is a laser type using sintered metal powder, it makes good metal parts. |
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Bend a sheet metal cover.
Extend the sides enough to cover the FCG pin holes. Drill those holes out. Make extended FCG pins. Secure sheet metal cover with extended pins. |
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Quoted: Quoted: Bend a sheet metal cover. Extend the sides enough to cover the FCG pin holes. Drill those holes out. Make extended FCG pins. Secure sheet metal cover with extended pins. |
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Quoted: only works with a drop in trigger, correct? View Quote It should work just fine with regular parts. It would look out of place to us because we are AR people but it wouldn't necessarily look out of place on a gun. Look at the bottom cover on a sten or the magazine cover on an old 88 commission rifle. The pins could just be C clipped on each side. |
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Quoted: It should work just fine with regular parts. It would look out of place to us because we are AR people but it wouldn't necessarily look out of place on a gun. Look at the bottom cover on a sten or the magazine cover on an old 88 commission rifle. The pins could just be C clipped on each side. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: only works with a drop in trigger, correct? It should work just fine with regular parts. It would look out of place to us because we are AR people but it wouldn't necessarily look out of place on a gun. Look at the bottom cover on a sten or the magazine cover on an old 88 commission rifle. The pins could just be C clipped on each side. Its a neat theory and concept |
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Quoted: those other rifles are not the same as a AR. the trigger spring interfaces with the floor and needs the correct tension. a plate like you said, although it would look kinna cool, would put the floor too low for normal function. then you would have to mess around with spring tensions. Its a neat theory and concept View Quote I don't think the spring tension is "that" critical. I've put in several reduced power spring kits to improve the trigger pull for cheap and they all come with a different trigger spring that has a lower rate. I have not fixed my boo boo yet. But y'all have some creative ideas. |
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Quoted: I don't think the spring tension is "that" critical. I've put in several reduced power spring kits to improve the trigger pull for cheap and they all come with a different trigger spring that has a lower rate. I have not fixed my boo boo yet. But y'all have some creative ideas. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: those other rifles are not the same as a AR. the trigger spring interfaces with the floor and needs the correct tension. a plate like you said, although it would look kinna cool, would put the floor too low for normal function. then you would have to mess around with spring tensions. Its a neat theory and concept I don't think the spring tension is "that" critical. I've put in several reduced power spring kits to improve the trigger pull for cheap and they all come with a different trigger spring that has a lower rate. I have not fixed my boo boo yet. But y'all have some creative ideas. |
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Quoted: might not be that critical, but too little and your disconnector might fail to engage with the correct tension to prevent a full auto situation. tolerance stacking the wrong way and your back to square one. View Quote So a couple of bumps, say solder, would fix such a thing? Yes it would. Or yas clowns jb weld? Or a couple of puched in dimples. Or it just wouldn't be too critical and a slight bend on the spring legs. |
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