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Posted: 5/9/2021 2:11:11 AM EDT
Or at least keep track of the turns on your z axis in the mill.
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Posted: 5/9/2021 2:15:05 AM EDT
[#1]
That will NOT rub out!
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Posted: 5/9/2021 2:18:07 AM EDT
[#2]
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Posted: 5/9/2021 2:22:42 AM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted: That will NOT rub out! For some reason the trigger doesn't reset. 
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Posted: 5/9/2021 2:24:44 AM EDT
[#4]
I know someone else who did that. I watched him do it. It sucked.
If you use a self contained FCG ("cassette" or "drop-in" style) that doesn't require tension against the floor of the receiver, you can still hobble along. |
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Posted: 5/9/2021 2:28:53 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I know someone else who did that. I watched him do it. It sucked. If you use a self contained FCG ("cassette" or "drop-in" style) that doesn't require tension against the floor of the receiver, you can still hobble along. I think I'm gonna try a small roll pin to create a false floor for the spring to rest on. If it doesn't work I'm only out a a $0.99 pin in addition to the $99 lower. |
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Posted: 5/9/2021 4:09:10 AM EDT
[#6]
Good chance your end mill pulled out of your collet a little bit.
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Posted: 5/9/2021 6:14:19 AM EDT
[#7]
On the plus side, popped primers won't get stuck in the trigger group.
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Posted: 5/9/2021 6:15:59 AM EDT
[#8]
That would motivate me to purchase a DRO.
It's metal there for fixable. |
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Posted: 5/9/2021 7:23:24 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted: That would motivate me to purchase a DRO. It's metal there for fixable. DRO's on the quill (Z axis) used to be pretty uncommon. Are they readily available now and what is the cost? |
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Posted: 5/9/2021 7:27:59 AM EDT
[#10]
At least you got the your crap one out of the way.
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Posted: 5/9/2021 7:47:11 AM EDT
[#11]
Well, at least you won’t have to worry about a popped primer jamming up the fcg
Eta, beat like a rented mule!! |
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Posted: 5/9/2021 8:15:23 AM EDT
[#12]
fill the void with J-B Weld MarineWeld and re-mill it.
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Posted: 5/9/2021 8:32:44 AM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: fill the void with J-B Weld MarineWeld and re-mill it. or bolt on a floor. dont some "kits" come as sheet metal cutouts you stick together? |
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Posted: 5/9/2021 8:48:15 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted: fill the void with J-B Weld MarineWeld and re-mill it. This! JB solves all. |
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Posted: 5/9/2021 8:55:18 AM EDT
[#15]
Bolt on a floor plate for the perfect start of your Steampunk build.
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Posted: 5/9/2021 9:04:45 AM EDT
[#16]
@OP
Flat sheet metal cut to a paper templet with capture legs can be dropped in to create the right floor height. Strategically placed new holes on the sides of the lower would allow you to make fold through locking tabs on the legs to keep the sheet metal in place without taking up space in critical areas. Downward pressure from the trigger spring will prevent rattle. I'd probably use stainless steel for strength and corrosion resistance. |
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Posted: 5/9/2021 10:22:55 AM EDT
[#17]
Bolt some clear plexiglass in the bottom through the sides. The windowed looked might catch on.
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Posted: 5/9/2021 10:28:06 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted: fill the void with J-B Weld MarineWeld and re-mill it. I had a mill bit come loose and ended up with half the bottom about as thick as a soda can. I did a layer of JB Weld and machined it again. I also had a lower with oversize hammer and trigger pin holes. Once again JB Weld and a cassette fire control group with anti-rotation pins. Drilled and tapped into the cassette and added screws to solidly anchor it. Ugly but functional!  Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 5/9/2021 10:28:33 AM EDT
[#19]
We’ve ALL done that on one receiver. And Rise RA-140 triggers are your friend.
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Posted: 5/9/2021 10:34:15 AM EDT
[#20]
I did mine with a drill press. I put a collar on the milling tool that I set to the pocket depth for the jig. Never came close to over cutting the bottom.
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Posted: 5/9/2021 1:03:36 PM EDT
[#21]
At least it's a non-pressure bearing part. Just weld in a cover plate.
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Posted: 5/9/2021 3:34:22 PM EDT
[#22]
Ufda.
Cut a piece of aluminum plate to fit, JB weld in place and then cut a trigger slot. Or just chalk it up as a lesson learned and send it to be recycled. |
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Posted: 5/9/2021 5:24:32 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted: DRO's on the quill (Z axis) used to be pretty uncommon. Are they readily available now and what is the cost? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: That would motivate me to purchase a DRO. It's metal there for fixable. DRO's on the quill (Z axis) used to be pretty uncommon. Are they readily available now and what is the cost? You can use something like this https://www.amazon.com/iGaging-Digital-Mounting-Bridgeport-Fractions/dp/B07SPW1M47. You'd have to make a collar to fit on the quill but that should be pretty easy. |
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Posted: 5/9/2021 7:05:47 PM EDT
[#24]
 Been there. |
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Posted: 5/9/2021 9:25:13 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryBummer. That looks like an expensive billet lower too. |
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Posted: 5/9/2021 10:40:08 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Bummer. That looks like an expensive billet lower too. Quote HistoryQuoted: Bummer. That looks like an expensive billet lower too. |
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Posted: 5/10/2021 11:46:47 AM EDT
[#27]
Weld it up and start over
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Posted: 5/10/2021 12:48:15 PM EDT
[#28]
Wouldn’t an all in one / self contained trigger work?
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Posted: 5/13/2021 3:52:13 PM EDT
[#29]
“Plexiglass floorplate”
Hey good idea, now I want one of those! |
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Posted: 5/13/2021 6:47:39 PM EDT
[#30]
Don’t bother with the plexiglass. It will look interesting until you shoot it, then it will smoke up and look like crap. Think of the Ruger 10-22 clear mags, after a couple of boxes of ammo they smoke up you can barely see anything through them. Even the clear Lancer mags smoke up pretty quickly and need to be taken apart and cleaned fairly frequently. The Lancers are at least easy to take apart, but not the Ruger’s, and I imagine you’d have to pull the FCG to clean the bottom of the FCG pocket to clean the plexiglass enough to make it worth your time. JB Weld it, hit it with Aluma-hyde or Duracoat and be done with it.
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Posted: 5/13/2021 9:04:10 PM EDT
[#31]
JB Weld.
Or, use a evil 3D printer to make a insert that you can "glue" in place. I have three 3D printers on order, one is a laser type using sintered metal powder, it makes good metal parts. 
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Posted: 5/14/2021 6:30:04 AM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted: JB Weld. Or, use a evil 3D printer to make a insert that you can "glue" in place. I have three 3D printers on order, one is a laser type using sintered metal powder, it makes good metal parts. Sounds deliciously expensive. |
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Posted: 5/14/2021 7:17:40 AM EDT
[#33]
Umm.. yea. You messed up that one up didn't you. Glad the shop foreman wasn't around to see it. Fixable? Yes. Mill a plug and mill some off the receiver to make it fit. No screws just a snap in part. Use a woodruff cutter to slot the inside and a chamfer mill on the plug. You got a mill so I would hope that you have some indicators and mag bases, you should use them. Reference the head to the table and zero off the part. z axis the DOC from that. This will eliminate any backlash you have as well and give you true readings.  |
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Posted: 5/14/2021 1:14:27 PM EDT
[#34]
Bend a sheet metal cover.
Extend the sides enough to cover the FCG pin holes. Drill those holes out. Make extended FCG pins. Secure sheet metal cover with extended pins. 
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Posted: 5/14/2021 6:39:44 PM EDT
[#35]
Or just fill with jb weld.
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Posted: 5/15/2021 9:33:31 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted: We've ALL done that on one receiver. And Rise RA-140 triggers are your friend. Nope Them again I have only done 11 or so lowers. |
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Posted: 5/15/2021 9:38:28 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Bend a sheet metal cover. Extend the sides enough to cover the FCG pin holes. Drill those holes out. Make extended FCG pins. Secure sheet metal cover with extended pins. |
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Posted: 5/16/2021 12:41:51 AM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted: That's not a bad idea. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Bend a sheet metal cover. Extend the sides enough to cover the FCG pin holes. Drill those holes out. Make extended FCG pins. Secure sheet metal cover with extended pins. |
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Posted: 5/16/2021 1:27:38 AM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted: only works with a drop in trigger, correct? It should work just fine with regular parts. It would look out of place to us because we are AR people but it wouldn't necessarily look out of place on a gun. Look at the bottom cover on a sten or the magazine cover on an old 88 commission rifle. The pins could just be C clipped on each side.  
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Posted: 5/16/2021 9:01:42 AM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted: It should work just fine with regular parts. It would look out of place to us because we are AR people but it wouldn't necessarily look out of place on a gun. Look at the bottom cover on a sten or the magazine cover on an old 88 commission rifle. The pins could just be C clipped on each side. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: only works with a drop in trigger, correct? It should work just fine with regular parts. It would look out of place to us because we are AR people but it wouldn't necessarily look out of place on a gun. Look at the bottom cover on a sten or the magazine cover on an old 88 commission rifle. The pins could just be C clipped on each side. Its a neat theory and concept |
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Posted: 5/16/2021 9:15:36 AM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted: those other rifles are not the same as a AR. the trigger spring interfaces with the floor and needs the correct tension. a plate like you said, although it would look kinna cool, would put the floor too low for normal function. then you would have to mess around with spring tensions. Its a neat theory and concept I don't think the spring tension is "that" critical. I've put in several reduced power spring kits to improve the trigger pull for cheap and they all come with a different trigger spring that has a lower rate. I have not fixed my boo boo yet. But y'all have some creative ideas. |
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Posted: 5/16/2021 9:21:18 AM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I don't think the spring tension is "that" critical. I've put in several reduced power spring kits to improve the trigger pull for cheap and they all come with a different trigger spring that has a lower rate. I have not fixed my boo boo yet. But y'all have some creative ideas. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: those other rifles are not the same as a AR. the trigger spring interfaces with the floor and needs the correct tension. a plate like you said, although it would look kinna cool, would put the floor too low for normal function. then you would have to mess around with spring tensions. Its a neat theory and concept I don't think the spring tension is "that" critical. I've put in several reduced power spring kits to improve the trigger pull for cheap and they all come with a different trigger spring that has a lower rate. I have not fixed my boo boo yet. But y'all have some creative ideas. |
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Posted: 5/16/2021 12:01:18 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted: might not be that critical, but too little and your disconnector might fail to engage with the correct tension to prevent a full auto situation. tolerance stacking the wrong way and your back to square one. So a couple of bumps, say solder, would fix such a thing? Yes it would. Or yas clowns jb weld? Or a couple of puched in dimples. Or it just wouldn't be too critical and a slight bend on the spring legs. |
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