AR Sponsor
I am FRT cursed (Page 1 of 2)
Posted: 5/6/2026 8:11:04 AM EDT
|
I just gotta vent a little. I swear I am cursed when it comes to FRT's. I have almost nothing but bad luck with them. And then I see countless people talking about just dropping them in and them running 100% perfectly out of the box and it pisses me off. I have 9 in total, only 2 of them work. I have spent probably a couple grand trying to get a 22lr AR running with nothing to show for it but lots of money and frustration. https://www.ar15.com/forums/ar-15/Who-here-is-using-a-FRT-with-a-22LR-What-is-your-setup-/130-790783/ I had a 9mm AR that was working great. I built it with a cmmg rdb bolt and barrel, then the ejector issues started and I switched to their fixed ejector kit and had a hell of a time getting it back working. But finally did. https://www.ar15.com/forums/ar-15/CMMG-fixed-ejector-kit-not-reliable-with-FRT/15-792108/ It had a frt15-l3 in it, but the trigger pull in them suck ass. So last week I swapped to a V1 arc-fire with a $G trigger and tested it over the weekend. Semi worked great, but frt it would choke. Just anywhere from 1-4 rounds then dead trigger, hammer down, and it could be either a empty chamber, or a live round. It was running fine with the RB trigger before. So WTF? I put the RB back in and will retest this weekend and hope it still works. If so I am not touching the trigger in it again. I had a 20in AR that was working great with a V1 arc-fire, but when I swapped to their milspec safety levers, it stopped running. They sent me new shafts, new levers, but nothing fixed it. I even tried one of the new V2 arc fires with no luck. https://www.ar15.com/forums/ar-15/I-need-help-getting-my-ARC-fire-to-work-again/130-793213/ I have now completely given up on that gun and have rebuilt it into a carbine in a completely different caliber (PCC) and it will probably stay semi auto, out of frustration. I just purchased a older bushmaster 20in and will be trying again with it. Just hoping and praying right now. I have a 16in carbine I have not been able to get running with a frt from the start. I started with the RB one, then switched to the V1 arc fire, then just tried the V2 arc fire over the weekend with a fresh cut $G trigger. Bench testing was fine, but it chokes on live fire. It actually ran much worse with the V2 than it did with the V1. I have tried different gas settings (it has a adjustable gas block), it has a H3 buffer, and I tried different buffer springs too. It ran the worst with a standard carbine buffer spring, so I put the tubbs flat wire back in it. I took the V1 out of the above mentioned 20in AR and put it and the trigger into my DPMS G2 308. I had to open the gas a couple clicks, but after that, it so far has run perfectly. I am not touching ANYTHING on it until it stops working (other than cleaning it). I have a cheap ass TX22 and a $5 frt and that stupid thing runs perfectly. These are the only two functioning ones I have. I am just at a loss as to why I am so cursed with these things. I have configurations exactly like others do that work perfectly for them, but will not work with me. I am not death gripping the trigger and only pull it just what is needed to make it work. Just gotta vent some. |
|
Most require some work and adjustment; don't be discouraged. Most aren't true drop-in if you have to swap buffers, etc. Some people are more comfortable working on their guns and troubleshooting than others. An OEM manufacturer that makes an FRT lower will make a boatload of money. I suspect that will only happen when the legal aspects are fully settled. |
|
.22 is notoriously hard to work with given how little energy it has. 5.56 is normally easier to work with but they can have timing issues. My understanding with the ARC-FIRE is that some people need a shim to get them functioning correctly. I tried a Partisan in my AR57 and the timing was too late/it wouldn't ever let me pull the trigger. Put an ARC-FIRE in and she ran immediately. I've had ejection issues with my PSA AR-V 9mm that only appear in FRT. I wanted it to run with one of my Partisans and it has not worked. It used to run with my AZ Regulator. I need to swap it out and try again to see if it's an ejector problem or something related to the Partisan. IME, the easiest setups to get running are a Partisan or RB cassette in a 5.56 gun with a H3 buffer. They normally drop in and eat all the brass cased ammunition you can feed them right away. |
|
Originally Posted By jaqufrost: .22 is notoriously hard to work with given how little energy it has. 5.56 is normally easier to work with but they can have timing issues. My understanding with the ARC-FIRE is that some people need a shim to get them functioning correctly. I tried a Partisan in my AR57 and the timing was too late/it wouldn't ever let me pull the trigger. Put an ARC-FIRE in and she ran immediately. I've had ejection issues with my PSA AR-V 9mm that only appear in FRT. I wanted it to run with one of my Partisans and it has not worked. It used to run with my AZ Regulator. I need to swap it out and try again to see if it's an ejector problem or something related to the Partisan. IME, the easiest setups to get running are a Partisan or RB cassette in a 5.56 gun with a H3 buffer. They normally drop in and eat all the brass cased ammunition you can feed them right away. That is my next thing. I am going to order a pack of those shims to try. And yes, it seems 22lr is the hardest of anything to get working. I even used bore buddys "certified" rave 140/atrius combo and it does not work either. I have been so disgusted with it that it has set in the safe untouched for a long time. I have not made up my mind yet if I am going to spend more money for a few more parts, or just throw in the towel and part the thing out and give up on 22lr. |
|
Originally Posted By Mike_Golf: Most require some work and adjustment; don't be discouraged. Most aren't true drop-in if you have to swap buffers, etc. Some people are more comfortable working on their guns and troubleshooting than others. An OEM manufacturer that makes an FRT lower will make a boatload of money. I suspect that will only happen when the legal aspects are fully settled. Yea I am a tinkerer and a hobby grade/pretend gunsmith. I only work on my own stuff. I gave up on all local gunsmiths, and also got burnt by a couple I shipped stuff too. So a few years ago I bought a hobby grade lathe and mill and have been doing all my own work. Here is my latest project. The one I rebuilt from the above mentioned 20in I could not get running. https://www.ar15.com/forums/ar-15/I-built-a-9x23-win-upper-how-to-make-it-semi-auto/15-793176/ |
Member
Joined:
Aug 2025
Posts:
169
EE: 0% (0)
TX, USA
|
@Jeeps-And-Guns ... My ARFCOM observations lead me to believe you like eclectic hole punchers (E.g., 20" ARs, rifle buffers, 9x23, etc.). Same observations have me believing, you are not shy about sharing your problems. Most of us have faced problems and eventually overcome them. Of this most, very few have offered a play by play of the problems as they occurred. My wife will tell you, correctly, that I hate asking for help. She's describing the problem I'd most like to improve. It's sure not my favorite to live with, but me. I watch my father throw money at stuff until he stumbles across the magic fix. When I help him, I generally find an issue several steps before the problem he's trying to tackle. When I solve the problem I find, it often eliminates the symptom he'd identified as the problem. My journey started with 5 rifles that function tested perfectly. I drove them half way across Texas (yes, really) to a friends 80 acre compound. Planned a weekend that was gonna be great. But, zero of five were live fire functional. A few sporadic bursts before packing back up. Odin Heavy buffers were NOT the way. Roller delayed 9mm buffer was NOT the way. Kabuto's with plastic safety selectors were NOT the way. Heavy, solid steel 9mm buffer was NOT the way. Et cetera. And my 22lr is still a work in progress. Bounce is a beast. I wanted to blame lack of Tungsten. Those Odin Heavies learned me about sliding mass v. total mass. Applying this logic, I brought the aluminum body to the party and found my glimmer of hope. But she's still unfinished 'cause - new barrel (shorter) demanded Form 1 which is approved. But, I'm dragging feet getting it engraved so I can put her together and evaluate. My Tx22 remains unfired going on month 3 - saving her for an easy win. So, I wouldn't call you cursed. I would not call you patient either. I expect that concentrating on any single (non rimfire) project will get it up and running in reasonable order. My prescription. Put your wallet away - you can run these without spending more. Get your bolts running as slowly as they'll function reliably in Semi. Bolt velocity is not a friend to forced reset. So, less gas, more buffer, less buffer spring. Ensure that you have maximised the sliding to total weight ratio in any buffer you select. Start with the locked breech examples. For your Hoffman inspired stuff, confirm lack of binding, confirm function, load up quality brass cased ammo, test, smile and report back. Do this one example at a time. Before you know it, your entire collection will fall in line with the tx22 and the 308. |
|
Originally Posted By dredeagle: @Jeeps-And-Guns ... My ARFCOM observations lead me to believe you like eclectic hole punchers (E.g., 20" ARs, rifle buffers, 9x23, etc.). Same observations have me believing, you are not shy about sharing your problems. Most of us have faced problems and eventually overcome them. Of this most, very few have offered a play by play of the problems as they occurred. My wife will tell you, correctly, that I hate asking for help. She's describing the problem I'd most like to improve. It's sure not my favorite to live with, but me. I watch my father throw money at stuff until he stumbles across the magic fix. When I help him, I generally find an issue several steps before the problem he's trying to tackle. When I solve the problem I find, it often eliminates the symptom he'd identified as the problem. My journey started with 5 rifles that function tested perfectly. I drove them half way across Texas (yes, really) to a friends 80 acre compound. Planned a weekend that was gonna be great. But, zero of five were live fire functional. A few sporadic bursts before packing back up. Odin Heavy buffers were NOT the way. Roller delayed 9mm buffer was NOT the way. Kabuto's with plastic safety selectors were NOT the way. Heavy, solid steel 9mm buffer was NOT the way. Et cetera. And my 22lr is still a work in progress. Bounce is a beast. I wanted to blame lack of Tungsten. Those Odin Heavies learned me about sliding mass v. total mass. Applying this logic, I brought the aluminum body to the party and found my glimmer of hope. But she's still unfinished 'cause - new barrel (shorter) demanded Form 1 which is approved. But, I'm dragging feet getting it engraved so I can put her together and evaluate. My Tx22 remains unfired going on month 3 - saving her for an easy win. So, I wouldn't call you cursed. I would not call you patient either. I expect that concentrating on any single (non rimfire) project will get it up and running in reasonable order. My prescription. Put your wallet away - you can run these without spending more. Get your bolts running as slowly as they'll function reliably in Semi. Bolt velocity is not a friend to forced reset. So, less gas, more buffer, less buffer spring. Ensure that you have maximised the sliding to total weight ratio in any buffer you select. Start with the locked breech examples. For your Hoffman inspired stuff, confirm lack of binding, confirm function, load up quality brass cased ammo, test, smile and report back. Do this one example at a time. Before you know it, your entire collection will fall in line with the tx22 and the 308. As a mechanic for the last 17 years, I deal with finding, diagnosing, and fixing issues daily. However guns and engines are not the same. I am not too proud to admit when I need help and when I am in over my head. I have learned over the years that most times, you are not the first person to run into a specific issue. Lots of times I run into a issue on a piece of equipment, I can check with the manufacturer and they have already detailed the issue and implemented a fix. However sometimes they have not. So a lot of times, I like to stop before I get too far into a issue and before I start throwing parts at it, and ask for help. Sometimes it is good to have a "fresh set of eyes". We do this in the shop all the time. One of the other guys is having a issue finding a issue, calls me over, and I can look at it and see something they missed. And they can do the same for me, see something I missed. As I mentioned above, sometimes you are not the first to have the issue, and there is a chance someone might see it and say HEY, I had this exact same issue and this was the fix for it. It has happened a lot over the years. So yea it might sound like I am not shy about sharing my problems. But I am doing it to ask for help with the issue. Plus, if I do fix it, I will post up what worked and hopefully it may help other people in the future. However sometimes I do need to vent a little. |
|
Some things that helped get my Disruptor running in a 16" 5.56 build: Old school style H3 aluminum buffer with sliding weights. I started out with a PWS steel bodied H3 and it did not run. The Tromix H3 buffer was also recommended to me. Polymer mags. Bolt was outrunning some of my GI style aluminum mags. Different ammo types. Lower velocity ammo would not run reliably. I clipped about 1/2" off of the buffer spring to try to reduce the bolt return velocity, just as an experiment. It did seem to help. Once I got it running and put a couple hundred rounds or so through it, the function seemed to smooth out a bit and I was able to use some of the lower velocity ammo with decent results. So it seems like a bit of break-in on the trigger parts also helped. |
|
Originally Posted By JKinAZ: Some things that helped get my Disruptor running in a 16" 5.56 build: Old school style H3 aluminum buffer with sliding weights. I started out with a PWS steel bodied H3 and it did not run. The Tromix H3 buffer was also recommended to me. Polymer mags. Bolt was outrunning some of my GI style aluminum mags. Different ammo types. Lower velocity ammo would not run reliably. I clipped about 1/2" off of the buffer spring to try to reduce the bolt return velocity, just as an experiment. It did seem to help. Once I got it running and put a couple hundred rounds or so through it, the function seemed to smooth out a bit and I was able to use some of the lower velocity ammo with decent results. So it seems like a bit of break-in on the trigger parts also helped. Ammo should be good. It is my handload but is basically a M193 clone. The 16in does have the aluminum buffer with the 3 sliding tungsten weights. I am using p-mags. In fact, that is actually all I have. I do not have anything else. I have been running a tubbs flat wire spring and it has been great for years in semi auto. I tried a standard carbine spring this past weekend and it would pretty much not run at all. I have had this carbine for quite a few years and have somewhere between 500-800 rounds through it. I am going to try the shim next. Whenever they get here. |
Joined:
Nov 2025
Posts:
2
EE: 0% (0)
AZ, USA
|
It seems from your notes here that you are DESPERATELY throwing a LOT OF MONEY at various problems, and when you run into an obstacle, you put it aside and ATTACK another with yet more cash? That's what I'm getting here... Consider SLOWING WAY DOWN and addressing ONE SYSTEM AT A TIME until you get or do not get satisfaction from it, rather than "spraying and praying?" I promise you, sir, that If I made THAT trigger and it was giving you THAT MUCH GRIEF, I'd want to see the damn thing, make it right, and perhaps modify my product so nobody else suffers like you have. Be prepared to pay a reasonable gunsmithing fee if the trigger mfgr makes no mods to it! Approach by phone that trigger manufacturer and ask if you can send it in WITH THE WEAPON YOU WANT IT IN and see if they will accept it for evaluation and possible correction. At the worst case they might tell you it won't work on your weapon and return the funds you paid for the trigger. See above about reasonable fees. When you contact these firms, and I recommend by PHONE, BE! ORGANIZED! Keep clear and concise notes about the firm, the number you called, who you talked to and the results of the conversation. Use a separate computer file or tablet for each firm so you can keep your shite straight. Buy a STACK of tablets at an office supply store before you start! Be nice. Be professional. Treat them like you would want to be treated if things were reversed! Respect goes a long way. And remember that HONEY catches more flies than VINEGAR. If you are concerned that you are not going to be able to discuss this with them w/o getting upset? Apologize in advance that you are at the end of your freaking rope and intend the conversation to be civil. And if they still refuse to help you, I would hint that you intend to spread the word about their "lack of standing behind their product", because if they refuse they are not a firm you and your buds want to do business with. |
|
Man I hate that for you. I’ve got right at three dozen guns set up with FRTs. It’s an eclectic mix. Honey Badger, Boom Box, B&Ts, HKs, 7.62 ARs, 556 PDX to 12.5” barrels and 300 BO with 5” barrels tucked and suppressed to 9” ones and all sorts of other stuff. SD ported barrel guns too. Using CARLS for 3 rd burst to az regs, az regs I converted to 3 position, Arcs (favorite) with g$ I cut, Atriuses, Atriai? With trigger shoes I shaved and slaved to the frt, RB, CF, SS, Partisan, partisan that I welded a portion of a trigger on the trip bar to change geometry allowing it to function with a B&T GHM9  . I’ve ground the shit out of receivers, bolt carriers, the rear of partisan trigger packs and countless triggers and everything in between.The resounding theme is I had to mess with almost everything in some shape form or fashion. Oh yeah I’ve spent a fortune on adjustable gas blocks and bags and bags of tungsten cylinder chunks. The adjustable gas was the key to my success in short barreled suppressed subsonic 300. Keep your chin up and don’t let it whip you. All of my guns run lights out now but I used to spend hours at night in the shop after the kids went to bed working the problem. I just counted my unused FRTs and I’ve got 20 or so just waiting on guns lol. The only one not running is my MARs 22 trigger (it’s a trigger pack now-that I can swap easily). My 10/22 was sort of custom and had two recoil rods and springs. I’ll be picking up my Jager Chassis Charger tomorrow and hopefully I’ll have a suppressed 22 sub gun by dinner time. This one may cause me to struggle since it’s a 22 but I’m hopeful. Good luck and be sure to reach out whenever you need assistance. E Littlefield is the man. I’m just the hack that gnaws away at the issue till I find a solution. |
Member
Joined:
Dec 2023
Posts:
9855
EE: 100% (7)
USA
|
Originally Posted By pcmacd1: It seems from your notes here that you are DESPERATELY throwing a LOT OF MONEY at various problems, and when you run into an obstacle, you put it aside and ATTACK another with yet more cash? That's what I'm getting here... Consider SLOWING WAY DOWN and addressing ONE SYSTEM AT A TIME until you get or do not get satisfaction from it, rather than "spraying and praying?" I promise you, sir, that If I made THAT trigger and it was giving you THAT MUCH GRIEF, I'd want to see the damn thing, make it right, and perhaps modify my product so nobody else suffers like you have. Be prepared to pay a reasonable gunsmithing fee if the trigger mfgr makes no mods to it! Approach by phone that trigger manufacturer and ask if you can send it in WITH THE WEAPON YOU WANT IT IN and see if they will accept it for evaluation and possible correction. At the worst case they might tell you it won't work on your weapon and return the funds you paid for the trigger. See above about reasonable fees. When you contact these firms, and I recommend by PHONE, BE! ORGANIZED! Keep clear and concise notes about the firm, the number you called, who you talked to and the results of the conversation. Use a separate computer file or tablet for each firm so you can keep your shite straight. Buy a STACK of tablets at an office supply store before you start! Be nice. Be professional. Treat them like you would want to be treated if things were reversed! Respect goes a long way. And remember that HONEY catches more flies than VINEGAR. If you are concerned that you are not going to be able to discuss this with them w/o getting upset? Apologize in advance that you are at the end of your freaking rope and intend the conversation to be civil. And if they still refuse to help you, I would hint that you intend to spread the word about their "lack of standing behind their product", because if they refuse they are not a firm you and your buds want to do business with. I have contacted manufacturers. Bore buddy will not take complete guns. But they did let me send in my upper (the one they made), which they claimed "worked perfectly right out of the box" (which I say is bull shit). But they then go on to tell me I should use this part and this part, and this trigger, to make it run right. They recommended a arc-fire, even though I was using their "certified" atrius/rave 140 combo. I did try the upper on a lower that has a arc fire in it and guess what, it did not work either. ASD was initially good with customer support, but once a new lever and new shaft did not fix the issue, they just stopped responding. They also do not accept complete guns or even gun parts. They only do triggers. So no sending my gun to them either. The 22 was the only one I threw money at as it was the first one I had troubles with, and still to this day it will not run. That is why I stopped with it. The 20in AR, it was working perfectly until I swapped selectors, then never worked right since. I did not throw any money at it. I asked for help and suggestions, but nothing seemed to work. The 16in, I have not thrown any money at either, just tried a few different things. |
|
Not to throw salt on the wound in your time of suffering, but at a certain point, you have to consider that the problem isn't with the FRT parts. Like the old adage, if you run into an asshole, it was just an asshole; if all you run into are assholes, you're the asshole. You need to take a step back and fundamentally change whatever approach you're taking. As far as help from vendors, I would assume most aren't going to go much beyond replacing the potentially faulty parts. That's all they can reasonably be expected to do. Going the extra mile to endlessly troubleshoot would be nice, but I wouldn't expect it. Personally, I would pick one gun and put all the others to the side -- tinkering with half a dozen systems all at once is too much. Work the problem on that single gun until it's either fixed or you determine with certainty why it can't be fixed. These aren't terribly complex systems, and you say you have mechanical aptitude. Toss out all previous assumptions, and methodically work it from the very beginning with the mindset that everything was potentially done incorrectly, even down to the most basic things. If necessary, look for function animations and study them, so you have a better understanding of what should be happening. If you have fancy BCGs or non-standard springs/buffers, etc., swap them for basic milspec parts. Start from scratch, and eliminate variables until you isolate the problem, then move on to the next gun. |
Practice, the master of all things. - Augustus
IG: @cqbr.kurdt
Looking for: Savannah Mk18 RIS II in light blonde/bronze - LMT SOPMOD Gen 1 Tan
IG: @cqbr.kurdt
Looking for: Savannah Mk18 RIS II in light blonde/bronze - LMT SOPMOD Gen 1 Tan
|
I use a CMMG .22 kit, a GMR super safety, printed super safety trip, Bore Buddy weight (with aluminum inserts) and a Taylor Tactical reduced power hammer spring. The super safety lever was replaced by a printed version that is 10% larger to eliminate the “slop” between the lever and safety cylinder. Eliminating the slop will eliminate 99% of the function problems. Runs like a raped ape with CCI mini mags and CCI standard velocity. I’ve never seen a cassette style FRT work that well in a .22 set up. |
|
Originally Posted By krdt: Not to throw salt on the wound in your time of suffering, but at a certain point, you have to consider that the problem isn't with the FRT parts. Like the old adage, if you run into an asshole, it was just an asshole; if all you run into are assholes, you're the asshole. You need to take a step back and fundamentally change whatever approach you're taking. As far as help from vendors, I would assume most aren't going to go much beyond replacing the potentially faulty parts. That's all they can reasonably be expected to do. Going the extra mile to endlessly troubleshoot would be nice, but I wouldn't expect it. Personally, I would pick one gun and put all the others to the side -- tinkering with half a dozen systems all at once is too much. Work the problem on that single gun until it's either fixed or you determine with certainty why it can't be fixed. These aren't terribly complex systems, and you say you have mechanical aptitude. Toss out all previous assumptions, and methodically work it from the very beginning with the mindset that everything was potentially done incorrectly, even down to the most basic things. If necessary, look for function animations and study them, so you have a better understanding of what should be happening. If you have fancy BCGs or non-standard springs/buffers, etc., swap them for basic milspec parts. Start from scratch, and eliminate variables until you isolate the problem, then move on to the next gun. I have not ruled out the issues being with the gun itself. However it is hard to diagnose a issue with the gun, when it runs 100% flawlessly on semi auto. So it gives the appearance that nothing is wrong. However it only seems to be a issue when trying to run in forced reset mode. https://www.ar15.com/forums/ar-15/Possible-running-issues-with-this-rifle-/118-793466/ I have since rebuilt that rifle into my 9x23 carbine (I still have the 20in complete upper though), as I needed a lower and I was getting frustrated with it. I have just bought a older bushmaster for cheap that is almost identical (20in barrel, flat top upper) made back in the day (has a flash hider, bayo lug, L prefix SN and made in Windham) I am only changing the bolt carrier to a FA version so it can trip the frt, and I am installing the arc-fire. No other mods what so over. All original buffer, spring, barrel, gas tube, etc.. I am going to try it this weekend and see what it does and go from there. I am not touching any other guns/frt's and will focus on just this one for now. |
|
I got my first Arc-Fire about a year ago. It was out of spec, but since it was my first one, I didn’t realize it at the time. I spent weeks trying to get it working, thinking the problem was either me or the parts I was using. Over about a six-month period, I bought around 20 different trigger groups and spent countless hours researching and troubleshooting. Once I finally figured out the Arc-Fire itself was out of spec, they did send me a replacement. The new one dropped right in and worked perfectly. During all of that, I also tried several different FRTs and Super Safeties. I’m one of those people who can’t let a problem beat me—I have to understand exactly what’s causing it and how to fix it. What I learned is that the Arc-Fire can be buggy and extremely picky about compatible parts. The drop-in Kabutos and similar setups will most likely need tweaking to run properly. The drop-in FRT triggers are hit or miss. The Cornfire and Super Safety setups usually drop right in and work well with standard mil-spec trigger groups. With all of them, though, a good heavy buffer with sliding weights and a solid dead-blow effect makes a huge difference. .22 LR setups can be very difficult to tune with an FRT, and AR9s really need the correct buffer and spring combination to run reliably. With all of that trial and error behind me, I now stick with heavy buffers that use sliding weights and quality mil-spec triggers like the Schmid brands. I picked up a couple more Cornfires and standard Super Safeties, and they all dropped right in and worked great. |
|
Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: I have not ruled out the issues being with the gun itself. However it is hard to diagnose a issue with the gun, when it runs 100% flawlessly on semi auto. So it gives the appearance that nothing is wrong. However it only seems to be a issue when trying to run in forced reset mode. https://www.ar15.com/forums/ar-15/Possible-running-issues-with-this-rifle-/118-793466/ I have since rebuilt that rifle into my 9x23 carbine (I still have the 20in complete upper though), as I needed a lower and I was getting frustrated with it. I have just bought a older bushmaster for cheap that is almost identical (20in barrel, flat top upper) made back in the day (has a flash hider, bayo lug, L prefix SN and made in Windham) I am only changing the bolt carrier to a FA version so it can trip the frt, and I am installing the arc-fire. No other mods what so over. All original buffer, spring, barrel, gas tube, etc.. I am going to try it this weekend and see what it does and go from there. I am not touching any other guns/frt's and will focus on just this one for now. Good luck. Hopefully, you'll get one working without too much hassle; just for a morale boost, if nothing else, lol. |
Practice, the master of all things. - Augustus
IG: @cqbr.kurdt
Looking for: Savannah Mk18 RIS II in light blonde/bronze - LMT SOPMOD Gen 1 Tan
IG: @cqbr.kurdt
Looking for: Savannah Mk18 RIS II in light blonde/bronze - LMT SOPMOD Gen 1 Tan
|
Your method for diagnosing problems and sorting out solutions is what is lacking. Change one thing at a time instead of tossing out entire firearms and frt types. And stop trying to get harder to run setups going when you have issues with basic setups. And just because something runs fine in semi means zero for working at higher rpms. Zero. So stop spending money on the problem, and start doing a more scientific approach to figuring out the problems. |
a loaded gun won’t set you free, so you say…
Member
Joined:
Jun 2025
Posts:
31
EE: 0% (0)
NC, USA
|
Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: ASD was initially good with customer support, but once a new lever and new shaft did not fix the issue, they just stopped responding. They also do not accept complete guns or even gun parts. They only do triggers. So no sending my gun to them either. Not sure why you wouldn't have gotten further responses, but based on what you've tried there is a local gunsmith we work with that you can ship into for troubleshooting/diagnosis. Feel free to message me for their info. |
|
Originally Posted By Mav3rick: Now I am really beginning to understand why jeepnguns opened this thread. I am about ready to throw all this frt crap on the EE. So I have two frt related issues. One is with the arc fire v1 and the other is a as designs sp5k complete lower with geissele trigger I bought used off the EE. First issue is my ongoing issue with the arc fire v1 I bought new. I have tried getting it installed in a RRA lower. Turned out it had a high shelf despite ASD having it on approved lower list. I then decided to try a spikes tactical lower, but I also decided to send off a new geissele SD3G trigger to deez nutz to have them cut and test the trigger, and also bought the lever blocker from them. I got everything back a week or so ago, and today I sat down again to try to get this crap installed in the spikes lower. I got everything installed, but it still doesnt work dry firing on a 9mm upper that I want to use. WIthout the upper on, it does the following: 1) In safe position, it does not fire. 2) In semi position, it sometimes fires and sometimes it is like it is in safe position 3) In FRT position, if I pull the trigger and ride the hammer with my thumb, the hammer goes forward. Then while holding the trigger back I move hammer back, then rotate cam all the way back and as I come forward the hammer releases. Seems to be working. When I put the upper on, it does the same for 1 and 2, but not 3. FRT mode does not work. Some observations that make me think there are issues, are first thing I noticed is there is a ton of side to side movement of the cam. Like probably 1/8 to 1/4". I took some pics Cam all the way to the left https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/240449/cam_all_the_way_to_the_left-3762776.jpg Cam all the way to the right. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/240449/cam_all_the_way_to_the_right-3762777.jpg The second problem is unlike the first RRA lower where the cam didn't come back far enough, I think this time the cam is coming too far back. Again some pics In safe position it is a little bit above the rear takedown pin. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/240449/lever_in_safe-3762780.jpg In semi position it is even lower and almost resting on the takedown pin. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/240449/lever_in_semi-3762779.jpg In frt posiiton, it is about the same position as semi. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/240449/lever_in_frt-3762778.jpg The other FRT related problem I am having is with a completely built AS designs SP5K lower I bought with the SS. It has a geissele trigger in it as well and it too doesn't work with the upper on in SS mode. Safe mode and semi mode work, but in SS mode the trigger doesn't reset and it doesnt fire, If I let me finger off the trigger just resets. I installed the included slip trip on the bcg, pulled it far enough back to install the AD designs lower with the cam forward, the assembled the stock. I don't know why it doesnt work. At this time I would like to get one of them working for 9mm. I am going to email both AS designs and deez nutz but figured I would ask here as well for some help. To be clear, when the upper is on the AR lower, what happens when you pull the trigger in FRT? Same with the ASD lower. You say it doesn't fire, but you also say it resets if you release the trigger. Does the hammer release when you pull the trigger while in FRT position? |
Practice, the master of all things. - Augustus
IG: @cqbr.kurdt
Looking for: Savannah Mk18 RIS II in light blonde/bronze - LMT SOPMOD Gen 1 Tan
IG: @cqbr.kurdt
Looking for: Savannah Mk18 RIS II in light blonde/bronze - LMT SOPMOD Gen 1 Tan
|
Originally Posted By Mav3rick: Now I am really beginning to understand why jeepnguns opened this thread. I am about ready to throw all this frt crap on the EE. So I have two frt related issues. One is with the arc fire v1 and the other is a as designs sp5k complete lower with geissele trigger I bought used off the EE. First issue is my ongoing issue with the arc fire v1 I bought new. I have tried getting it installed in a RRA lower. Turned out it had a high shelf despite ASD having it on approved lower list. I then decided to try a spikes tactical lower, but I also decided to send off a new geissele SD3G trigger to deez nutz to have them cut and test the trigger, and also bought the lever blocker from them. I got everything back a week or so ago, and today I sat down again to try to get this crap installed in the spikes lower. I got everything installed, but it still doesnt work dry firing on a 9mm upper that I want to use. WIthout the upper on, it does the following: 1) In safe position, it does not fire. 2) In semi position, it sometimes fires and sometimes it is like it is in safe position 3) In FRT position, if I pull the trigger and ride the hammer with my thumb, the hammer goes forward. Then while holding the trigger back I move hammer back, then rotate cam all the way back and as I come forward the hammer releases. Seems to be working. When I put the upper on, it does the same for 1 and 2, but not 3. FRT mode does not work. Some observations that make me think there are issues, are first thing I noticed is there is a ton of side to side movement of the cam. Like probably 1/8 to 1/4". I took some pics Cam all the way to the left https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/240449/cam_all_the_way_to_the_left-3762776.jpg Cam all the way to the right. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/240449/cam_all_the_way_to_the_right-3762777.jpg The second problem is unlike the first RRA lower where the cam didn't come back far enough, I think this time the cam is coming too far back. Again some pics In safe position it is a little bit above the rear takedown pin. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/240449/lever_in_safe-3762780.jpg In semi position it is even lower and almost resting on the takedown pin. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/240449/lever_in_semi-3762779.jpg In frt posiiton, it is about the same position as semi. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/240449/lever_in_frt-3762778.jpg The other FRT related problem I am having is with a completely built AS designs SP5K lower I bought with the SS. It has a geissele trigger in it as well and it too doesn't work with the upper on in SS mode. Safe mode and semi mode work, but in SS mode the trigger doesn't reset and it doesnt fire, If I let me finger off the trigger just resets. I installed the included slip trip on the bcg, pulled it far enough back to install the AD designs lower with the cam forward, the assembled the stock. I don't know why it doesnt work. At this time I would like to get one of them working for 9mm. I am going to email both AS designs and deez nutz but figured I would ask here as well for some help. |
|
Stop changing too many things at once if you ever want to learn how to diagnose and fix issues with firearms. Period. That is a common factor seen with these complaints- too many things thrown in at once. Whether it is an FRT, a Glock, an AR…. isolate the part in question- especially if you are not that experienced at fixing issues with guns. That kind of knowledge is a learning curve, and nobody tries to learn calculus before learning algebra do they? |
a loaded gun won’t set you free, so you say…
|
I got the shims in and installed one into my 16in carbine that still has the V1. It causes the selector to stick between positions and the whole arc fire to just jam up. I had to take it back out. An yes, I installed it in the correct location. I found the pictures posted in the main arc-fire thread. So scratch that. |
|
Originally Posted By HKPDW: I use a CMMG .22 kit, a GMR super safety, printed super safety trip, Bore Buddy weight (with aluminum inserts) and a Taylor Tactical reduced power hammer spring. The super safety lever was replaced by a printed version that is 10% larger to eliminate the “slop” between the lever and safety cylinder. Eliminating the slop will eliminate 99% of the function problems. Runs like a raped ape with CCI mini mags and CCI standard velocity. I’ve never seen a cassette style FRT work that well in a .22 set up. Only quoted this one to say, I wish I could mine to eat cci standard velocity. My mostly bore buddy build runs great on either 36 or 40gr mini-mags and the 45gr winchester super Suppressor. 22 frt suppresssed is an amazing amount if fun. Honestly, if I could only have one working, that would be it. She's seen well over 5k rounds and counting. I did break the Atrius lever some where near 4000 on the 22, but I had also ran around 1k of various other uppers. That said, mine all run great, 5.56 7.5, 10.5, 11.5, 14.5, 16, 18 and 20, 300bo, and blow back 9mm. All AR's. RB, SS and Atrius. The only one I can't get to run is the cmmg rdb 9mm. But I haven't messed with it much either. They have all required some tuning. But so far I haven't bothered with or needed, adjustable gas blocks. I have a 3d printer (and several 3dp firearms) but I haven't done anything 3d printed for my FRT's. |
A firearm is like a parachute, if you need one but don't have one, you'll probably never need one again. IG @jimstagramguns
|
Originally Posted By AFCarbon15: Only quoted this one to say, I wish I could mine to eat cci standard velocity. My mostly bore buddy build runs great on either 36 or 40gr mini-mags and the 45gr winchester super Suppressor. 22 frt suppresssed is an amazing amount if fun. Honestly, if I could only have one working, that would be it. She's seen well over 5k rounds and counting. I did break the Atrius lever some where near 4000 on the 22, but I had also ran around 1k of various other uppers. That said, mine all run great, 5.56 7.5, 10.5, 11.5, 14.5, 16, 18 and 20, 300bo, and blow back 9mm. All AR's. RB, SS and Atrius. The only one I can't get to run is the cmmg rdb 9mm. But I haven't messed with it much either. They have all required some tuning. But so far I haven't bothered with or needed, adjustable gas blocks. I have a 3d printer (and several 3dp firearms) but I haven't done anything 3d printed for my FRT's. Sorry, I’m not too familiar with the Altrius Super Safety. I only use the OG GMR super safeties. The key to .22 set-ups is using an oversized, printed Super Safety lever. Using this will eliminate the lever/safety cylinder slop which eliminates most problems. If there’s too much slop, the trip will not move far enough to reliably force the trigger reset. I recommend using a Taylor Tactical reduced power hammer spring when shooting CCI Standard Velocity. None of this applies to cassette style FRTs… |
|
Ok, I just got back in from some testing. I was not able to do anything last weekend between working saturday, and mothers day on sunday. The new to me bushmaster 20in I just bought. It is a plain jane A4 style (flat top upper, A2 stock) and someone installed a goofy quad rail on it. It is a older model, Windham made, L prefix SN, bayo lug and flash hider. (possible pre ban?) Google says before L63000 is pre sep 94, and this one is L39xxx. Anyways, The only things I did to it is as follows: Replace the bolt carrier (just the carrier, not the whole BCG) with one of the BCM $39 "commercial spec" ones https://bravocompanyusa.com/commercial-bolt-carrier-stripped-w-gas-key/ Replaced the trigger with a freshly cut (by me) $G G2S trigger (it might be a SSA, fuck I can not remember) Arc fire V2 0-90-180 ambi. KNS trigger pins and ambi mag release (these should have no effect on FRT, they are just for me shooting left handed). I did not even put a optic on it yet as I wanted to test fire it first and see if it even runs.  Result: It rips. No issues. I am not touching a fucking thing on this rifle other than cleaning it. Well, I am going to remove the cheese grater quad rail and swap to normal A2 handguards. (that aluminum rail gets hot and you almost need gloves to hold it it is so sharp) I started with 50 rounds, not a single issue. Now the first 5 were semi auto, just as a base line function check, but the rest were forced reset. So now I got curious. I grabbed the DPMS upper out of the closet and put it on the bushmaster lower. Hey guess what, it ran like shit, just like it was when I had the DPMS all together. Hammer down, live round in the chamber, dead trigger. I put the bushmaster upper back on, it went back to running perfectly. So it seems the issue is the DPMS upper. But WTF could be wrong with it? So curiosity got me again. The DPMS upper, I had installed a complete toolcraft nitrided BCG with a C158 bolt I got from PSA. I took that BCG and put it in the bushmaster upper. It ran perfectly. So it seems the issue is not the BCG. There is not really much else on the upper that could cause it. The barrel/gas system? So WTF could be wrong with that barrel/gas system? It does shoot noticeably softer than the bushmaster upper. So I am wondering, could that DPMS barrel be under gassed? In total other than the 10 I tried to put through the DPMS upper, I shot 100 rounds out of the bushmaster. On to the next. The 9mm. Just to re cap, It was running before with the rare breed 3 position, I swapped in a arc fire and $G trigger and it would not run (semi was fine, just would not run forced reset). Today I swapped the RB trigger back in and it went back to running perfectly. Not sure why this gun does not like the arc fire. I just know I despise the trigger pull of the RB. So, curiosity got me again. I grabbed the lower off my 22lr. It has a rave 140 and atrius (bore buddies 22lr "certified" combo that does not work for shit with 22lr). It does have a H3 buffer and a tubbs flat wire buffer spring in it, (just in case I wanted to use it with a centerfire upper). So I pined on my 9mm upper and gave it a test. It actually ran great. Rate of fire was a little quicker, but it ran with no jams. So why is this running with the RB 3 position, the rave 140/atrius, but not with a arc fire? I put about 50 rounds through it with the lower with the RB, and the remaining 50 through it with the rave 140/atrius. Not a single jam or hiccup. So I may transfer the rave 140 and atrius over to the 9mm, and go a different direction with the 22lr. I have not had a chance to do anything else to my 16in 223 carbine. It is next. I am slowly trying to work my way though them. I am just glad that I finally got something working for once. |
|
Originally Posted By HKPDW: Sorry, I’m not too familiar with the Altrius Super Safety. I only use the OG GMR super safeties. The key to .22 set-ups is using an oversized, printed Super Safety lever. Using this will eliminate the lever/safety cylinder slop which eliminates most problems. If there’s too much slop, the trip will not move far enough to reliably force the trigger reset. I recommend using a Taylor Tactical reduced power hammer spring when shooting CCI Standard Velocity. None of this applies to cassette style FRTs… My bore Buddy Build will run great with the SS or the artius. Bore Buddy SS specific trip and their stainless weight body. Rarely even a couple round with the OG RB. |
A firearm is like a parachute, if you need one but don't have one, you'll probably never need one again. IG @jimstagramguns
|
Originally Posted By jaqufrost: I'm glad you got a few of them running. My guess is a timing issue due to something being out of spec on your dpms upper. I knocked out the taper pins and removed the FSB and gas tube from the DPMS upper. No debris or any issues in the gas system. All passageways are clear. I used my pin guage set and started checking the gas port in the barrel. .094 fits and goes into the bore. .095 fits the hole but will not go into the bore (possible slight burr?) This seems to be about right according to what I can find online. I am almost tempted to get some bits and drill it slightly oversized. I do have a adjustable gas tube for a 20in barrel I could install if it was overgassed after that. I suppose I could also try putting my suppressor on it to give it a little more backpressure, before I go drilling. I am still really curious to know why this DPMS upper will not run, but still really happy my bushmaster does run. |
|
Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: I knocked out the taper pins and removed the FSB and gas tube from the DPMS upper. No debris or any issues in the gas system. All passageways are clear. I used my pin guage set and started checking the gas port in the barrel. .094 fits and goes into the bore. .095 fits the hole but will not go into the bore (possible slight burr?) This seems to be about right according to what I can find online. I am almost tempted to get some bits and drill it slightly oversized. I do have a adjustable gas tube for a 20in barrel I could install if it was overgassed after that. I suppose I could also try putting my suppressor on it to give it a little more backpressure, before I go drilling. I am still really curious to know why this DPMS upper will not run, but still really happy my bushmaster does run. |
|
Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: I knocked out the taper pins and removed the FSB and gas tube from the DPMS upper. No debris or any issues in the gas system. All passageways are clear. I used my pin guage set and started checking the gas port in the barrel. .094 fits and goes into the bore. .095 fits the hole but will not go into the bore (possible slight burr?) This seems to be about right according to what I can find online. I am almost tempted to get some bits and drill it slightly oversized. I do have a adjustable gas tube for a 20in barrel I could install if it was overgassed after that. I suppose I could also try putting my suppressor on it to give it a little more backpressure, before I go drilling. I am still really curious to know why this DPMS upper will not run, but still really happy my bushmaster does run. Energy is consumed resetting the trigger, so it’s not surprising a marginally gassed upper could be problematic with an FRT. Drilling the gas port a little larger will tell you for sure. |
|
Did some independence day shooting today. The 20in bushmaster runs great. I put 100 rounds through it and had only 1 malfunction. I will take that. I ran 200 rounds of 9mm through the 9mm carbine with no issues. The DPMS G2 308 ran 100 round 100% flawlessly. The tx22 ran 150 rounds flawlessly. The 16in 223 carbine still refuses to run. I tried opening up the gas adjustment a few clicks and it actually started getting worse as I gave it more gas. So I put it back to where it was. Seems this thing just does just not want to run in forced reset. |
|
I have now completely and totally given up on making this 16in 223 carbine run in frt. I tried it again this past weekend. I had forgot I had one of those "accu wedge" rubber things in it. So I thought, it is a variable, lets try it without it. I also ordered one of the new tromix steel H3 buffers made for frt, as another thing to try. Tried it without the rubber wedge. No change. Tried the tromix buffer, still not change. I now get 2 rounds fired on frt, then its a empty chamber. (runs perfectly in semi auto) I open the gas up little by little till it is all the way open. Still no dice. Two rounds then a empty chamber. I have now removed the frt and put a timney single stage semi auto trigger into it, where it will stay. Something about this thing refuses to run at all with a frt. It will just be a semi auto carbine from now on. Frt's are like playing the lottery. Sometimes you win, most of the time you do not. |
Member
Joined:
Jan 2025
Posts:
98
EE: 100% (3)
OH, USA
|
Originally Posted By krdt: ... Personally, I would pick one gun and put all the others to the side -- tinkering with half a dozen systems all at once is too much. Work the problem on that single gun until it's either fixed or you determine with certainty why it can't be fixed. ... Start from scratch, and eliminate variables until you isolate the problem, then move on to the next gun. This is the way. I was (and still am) in the same boat as the OP. I have found from experience that all of the advice above is golden. I have many that are working perfectly and a few that aren't. I would only add to disassemble, clean, lube, and reassemble the gun in its original configuration. Verify functionality again before adding the FRT and related components. Too many times I have discovered and resolved problems that had nothing to do with the FRT. Try to find an FRT friendly range (or friend's property) that is closer to you so you can iterate and test without traveling long distances. Take extensive notes that you can review and track what works and what doesnt. Record all of the variables (e.g. ammo weight/type, buffer size/type, etc.). Try changing the upper for a given lower. One of my Arizona Regulators would not work with the upper I had on it.... so as an experiment I swapped to another upper and it ran perfectly. Most of all, don't lose the passion for figuring these things out. If you are frustrated, take a break for a day or two and refresh.... Many times, you will see things differently. FRTs are extremely cool and are an economical alternative to shooting a registered transferable. Ask your friends with FRTs to go out shooting with you. They may have some things to help get you up and running. |
|
Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: I have now completely and totally given up on making this 16in 223 carbine run in frt. I tried it again this past weekend. I had forgot I had one of those "accu wedge" rubber things in it. So I thought, it is a variable, lets try it without it. I also ordered one of the new tromix steel H3 buffers made for frt, as another thing to try. Tried it without the rubber wedge. No change. Tried the tromix buffer, still not change. I now get 2 rounds fired on frt, then its a empty chamber. (runs perfectly in semi auto) I open the gas up little by little till it is all the way open. Still no dice. Two rounds then a empty chamber. I have now removed the frt and put a timney single stage semi auto trigger into it, where it will stay. Something about this thing refuses to run at all with a frt. It will just be a semi auto carbine from now on. Frt's are like playing the lottery. Sometimes you win, most of the time you do not. I would put a different upper on and see if it works in FRT. |
|
Originally Posted By jaqufrost: You have something out of spec in the upper or lower. I would put a different upper on and see if it works in FRT. Yea there has got to be something with this combination of parts that makes it not work with a frt. It runs perfectly semi auto, I have never had a single jam, hiccup or even the slightest hankering of a issue in semi auto. Hence the reason I am giving up on this specific one and relegating it to semi auto only. I do not have any other 16in uppers to try. I have a 20in bushmaster that is running great, it suffices for my 223 frt uses. If I decide I want a 16in 223 with a frt, I will either build or buy another one. |
|
Originally Posted By DoctorMRG: This is the way. I was (and still am) in the same boat as the OP. I have found from experience that all of the advice above is golden. I have many that are working perfectly and a few that aren't. I would only add to disassemble, clean, lube, and reassemble the gun in its original configuration. Verify functionality again before adding the FRT and related components. Too many times I have discovered and resolved problems that had nothing to do with the FRT. Try to find an FRT friendly range (or friend's property) that is closer to you so you can iterate and test without traveling long distances. Take extensive notes that you can review and track what works and what doesnt. Record all of the variables (e.g. ammo weight/type, buffer size/type, etc.). Try changing the upper for a given lower. One of my Arizona Regulators would not work with the upper I had on it.... so as an experiment I swapped to another upper and it ran perfectly. Most of all, don't lose the passion for figuring these things out. If you are frustrated, take a break for a day or two and refresh.... Many times, you will see things differently. FRTs are extremely cool and are an economical alternative to shooting a registered transferable. Ask your friends with FRTs to go out shooting with you. They may have some things to help get you up and running. I have my own property with my own personal shooting range I built. So I only have to walk about 50-75 yards from my front door to my range. However I only have time during the weekends to test, weather permitting. I do not have any friends with frt's. The couple I do know that have guns, either are not really into them that much (pseudo fudd), or just can not afford to shoot them, so they do not even bother buying them. |
|
22LR was by far the hardest to get running reliably, adjusting the full auto trip, getting the weight right, have a bunch of those, then just the unreliablity of 22LR in general, it's sometimes hard to get one to run in semi auto, much less anything else. I used the Bore Buddy Adjustable trip kit, then added the Grey Market Research adjustable weight. I have their gen 1 weight as well that failed, he sent me the new one with the metal infused in it for free, and that one has run great although you have to add the weights yourself, I used to expoxy to secure them in place. Most of the ones I have built require an H2 or heavier buffer to run this is the most consistant thing to get them to run. The buffer also needs to have a sliding weight inside, I have tried several heavy buffers that are solid they do not work at all. 9mm use heavy 9mm buffer. You also need to take the weight out of the BCG if it has one in it, or mill it down. All my FRTs are Super Safties or Trigger kickers. |
Member
Joined:
Jan 2025
Posts:
99
EE: 100% (3)
OH, USA
|
Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: I have my own property with my own personal shooting range I built. So I only have to walk about 50-75 yards from my front door to my range. However I only have time during the weekends to test, weather permitting. I do not have any friends with frt's. The couple I do know that have guns, either are not really into them that much (pseudo fudd), or just can not afford to shoot them, so they do not even bother buying them. Understood. I am sure you will get some up and running once you get the time. |
|
I forgot to update about my 9mm. It was running perfectly on the 4th of july, but the next time I shot it, it started to choke. I found the atrius lever was getting stuck under the rear of the bolt carrier. Long story short, I found it was bent. Turns out it was hitting the upper and I did not notice. I clearanced the upper, ordered a new lever from atrius and tried again. It still would not run and the lever was still getting stuck under the bolt carrier. I was testing it at the same time I was testing the 16in 223. I put the 9mm upper onto the lower I have been using with the 16in 223, and it ran great. So I took the cut SSA and arc-fire out of my 16in 223, and swapped it into the 9mm. I tested it today and it ran 200 rounds perfectly. So the issue with the 16in 223 is not the trigger or FRT. As it sets right now, the 9mm is as follows: Spikes lower receiver CMMG RDB 16in barrel, fixed ejector upper/bcg. SSA trigger, cut for a ARC-fire, and arc fire V1 Tromix steel H3 FRT buffer. Tubbs flat wire buffer spring. So far it is running great. |
|
Originally Posted By jaqufrost: You have something out of spec in the upper or lower. I would put a different upper on and see if it works in FRT. I am using a 17 yr old delton upper on my FRT. Even works with a Hoffman tactical lower and trigger kicker. The lower was a experiment, it works but man is it ugly. I just took it off and stuffed it back in the safe. Funny thing is that ACOG is 23yrs old   |
Member
Joined:
Dec 2023
Posts:
11799
EE: 100% (7)
USA
|
Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Believe not that in the land of Gondor the blood of Númenor is spent, nor all its pride and dignity forgotten By our valor the wild folk of the East are still restrained, and the terror of Morgul kept at bay; and thus alone are peace and freedom maintained in the lands behind us, bulwark of the West. |
I am FRT cursed (Page 1 of 2)
AR Sponsor