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I am FRT cursed (Page 2 of 2)
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I put 200 more rounds through the 9mm last weekend without a single issue. So hoping I have this one dialed in finally. However my curse continues. Since I could not ever get my 16in 223 I built running, I bought a old bushmaster M4 style carbine. I think this one is a older pre ban based off the SN. I replaced the buffer with a H3, and I replaced the bolt carrier for a FA one. I had a extra brand new in the package V1 arc fire and a new G2S trigger (and the lever blocker). I cut the right side of the trigger, and just barely round the left, like clearly outlined in the arc fire thread. I have done two other G triggers and they are both working. Doing a function test, safe works fine, semi works fine, I put it in forced reset and I feel the trigger push forward against my finger, but when the bolt closes the hammer does not fall. I can release the trigger and I hear the click of it resetting and then I can pull it fine. It is as if the arc is not fully resetting the trigger. Again, I only barely rounded the corner. Hammer held down with my finger, the arc lever moves freely forward and backwards in semi and arc positions. I have another older bushmaster 20in rifle, and I have a V2 in it, but also a cut G trigger. It is working fine. I take the 16in upper and put it on the 20in lower. It bench tests fine in semi and forced reset with no issue. I put the 20in upper on the 16in lower and it bench tests fine as well. But the 16in upper and lower together and it will not reset in forced reset mode. I tried swapping to a different BCG and still the same. I am scratching my head on this one. |
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Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: I put 200 more rounds through the 9mm last weekend without a single issue. So hoping I have this one dialed in finally. However my curse continues. Since I could not ever get my 16in 223 I built running, I bought a old bushmaster M4 style carbine. I think this one is a older pre ban based off the SN. I replaced the buffer with a H3, and I replaced the bolt carrier for a FA one. I had a extra brand new in the package V1 arc fire and a new G2S trigger (and the lever blocker). I cut the right side of the trigger, and just barely round the left, like clearly outlined in the arc fire thread. I have done two other G triggers and they are both working. Doing a function test, safe works fine, semi works fine, I put it in forced reset and I feel the trigger push forward against my finger, but when the bolt closes the hammer does not fall. I can release the trigger and I hear the click of it resetting and then I can pull it fine. It is as if the arc is not fully resetting the trigger. Again, I only barely rounded the corner. Hammer held down with my finger, the arc lever moves freely forward and backwards in semi and arc positions. I have another older bushmaster 20in rifle, and I have a V2 in it, but also a cut G trigger. It is working fine. I take the 16in upper and put it on the 20in lower. It bench tests fine in semi and forced reset with no issue. I put the 20in upper on the 16in lower and it bench tests fine as well. But the 16in upper and lower together and it will not reset in forced reset mode. I tried swapping to a different BCG and still the same. I am scratching my head on this one. |
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Originally Posted By D_Man: It must be some tolerance stacking issue between the upper/lower combo and parts. The issue sounds like the trigger is not getting pushed far enough down from the reset function when the bolt is back. Since this has to do with the clearance (slop) between the carrier in the upper, the FRT lever interaction with the ramp on the carrier, and the trigger interaction with the FRT; all combined might not be moving the lever quite all the way rearward as it should. The issue might also be effected if you possibly took just a bit too much off the trigger tail for the mod, but it's a combination of factors since your part swapping tests resolved it. Well, the parts swapping was just to see what would happen and to try and narrow it down. It did not resolve the issue. I agree that it does seem like the lever is not pushing the trigger down far enough to fully reset it, but it resets fine when moving the lever by hand. However I only jut barely took anything off the corner, Just enough to give me a starting point, as the others I have done, I had to take it out and take a little more off as I could not get the hammer to drop until I took enough off the corner. I'm going to try the included milspec trigger with a spare milspec trigger I have and see what it does. If it works, then I know the issue is the trigger I cut. But if it still does not work, then there might be something else going on. I also have a extra brand new V2 I might try and see if it works with the G trigger I cut. I also have a spare un cut SSA (or SSAE, I can not remember) that I can try too. |
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Im curious what the issue is . So in frt mode movement of the lever will not keep the disconnector from holding the hammer back until you release the trigger at which time the trigger catches the hammer? I'm having a similar issue but with a MARC FRT/ SSA-E and It test functions fine with upper off and I'm manually working the lever with my finger. But with upper on it does just like yours. The disconnector is holding the hammer back regardless of lever movement. Seems as maybe not enough movement in the lever when being moved by the BCG????? |
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Originally Posted By fulautotank: Im curious what the issue is . So in frt mode movement of the lever will not keep the disconnector from holding the hammer back until you release the trigger at which time the trigger catches the hammer? I'm having a similar issue but with a MARC FRT/ SSA-E and It test functions fine with upper off and I'm manually working the lever with my finger. But with upper on it does just like yours. The disconnector is holding the hammer back regardless of lever movement. Seems as maybe not enough movement in the lever when being moved by the BCG????? Yea it just kinda feels like that to me too. I can feel it push the trigger forward, but it is not enough to fully reset it. |
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Ok, had a little time this afternoon to fiddle with it. I tried installing the cut milspec trigger it came with, and a hammer/related parts I had. It bench tested fine in all positions. It reset and released in frt mode (on the bench, I did not live fire). So now I got curious. I put the G2S trigger back in, and then installed the brand new V2 arc-fire I had laying around. It bench tests with the V2 just fine. It resets and releases in frt mode on the bench. I will do a live fire tomorrow and see if it runs or chokes. |
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Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: Ok, had a little time this afternoon to fiddle with it. I tried installing the cut milspec trigger it came with, and a hammer/related parts I had. It bench tested fine in all positions. It reset and released in frt mode (on the bench, I did not live fire). So now I got curious. I put the G2S trigger back in, and then installed the brand new V2 arc-fire I had laying around. It bench tests with the V2 just fine. It resets and releases in frt mode on the bench. I will do a live fire tomorrow and see if it runs or chokes.  I had a G$ / V1 combo that worked fine, the first time I took it out. then second time it would only fire semi, no frt mode. I switched it out for a v2 and it solved the problem. |
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I put 100 rounds through it. I fired 10 rounds semi auto just to verify function and it ran fine. The other 90 was all FRT. I am happy to say it ran great. I did have a moment of cussing though. After the first 10 rounds semi, I put in a full 30 round mag and only made it half way through and it stopped. MOTHER FUCKER I said, as I knew it was going to start not running. I eject the round and it has a nice deep firing pin hit. I fire the rest of the mag fine no issue, then put this round back in and try again. Still nothing, so turns out it was just a dud round, and was not the gun. All the rest of the mags/rounds ran fine. I even did back to back mags comparing the factory carbine spring, and a tubbs flat wire spring. It actually shot better, smoother, and less recoil with the tubbs spring, while still running great. So I am just going to leave it in there. |
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Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: I put 100 rounds through it. I fired 10 rounds semi auto just to verify function and it ran fine. The other 90 was all FRT. I am happy to say it ran great. I did have a moment of cussing though. After the first 10 rounds semi, I put in a full 30 round mag and only made it half way through and it stopped. MOTHER FUCKER I said, as I knew it was going to start not running. I eject the round and it has a nice deep firing pin hit. I fire the rest of the mag fine no issue, then put this round back in and try again. Still nothing, so turns out it was just a dud round, and was not the gun. All the rest of the mags/rounds ran fine. I even did back to back mags comparing the factory carbine spring, and a tubbs flat wire spring. It actually shot better, smoother, and less recoil with the tubbs spring, while still running great. So I am just going to leave it in there. |
I am FRT cursed (Page 2 of 2)
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