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ARC-Fire Talk (G$ trigger mod instructions inside) (Page 13 of 28)
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Originally Posted By Corn-fed-556:
Interesting. So the little nub on the left side needs to be knocked off. Never would I have thought something like that would be needed. Glad to have at least something to go by now. |
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Originally Posted By StealthyBlagga: Awesome, well done for being so responsive. I’d suggest offering the levers individually so folks can choose their preferred combination of size. Originally Posted By StealthyBlagga: Originally Posted By ASDesigns: …we're going to add some texture to the current design and then we're also making mil-spec style selectors to swap them out with, including longer ambi side. These will be a few weeks, but they're coming and trying to keep price reasonable… Awesome, well done for being so responsive. I’d suggest offering the levers individually so folks can choose their preferred combination of size. Yes, I think selling the levers separately would be great. I would also update the included one to something more traditional once you clear your inventory with the current selector. |
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| Didn't get a chance to round the left side of my trigger last night, but it did reinstall this morning. I can see that it should still work with the chipped piece, and my trigger no longer functions in semi or frt. I must have had something installed incorrectly last night, so I will slowly grind and retest the left side today. |
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I tested out my ARC Fire trigger today. I am exceptionally pleased! It has no trigger slap at all in semi auto mode, it has an okay to good mil spec trigger pull, and it ripped through a magazine of Wolf Gold effortlessly. Most pleasingly, it was truly drop in. No work needed on the tail of the trigger to make it fit like an Atrius. I ran it with an H3 buffer. Is that the consensus buffer to use with this trigger? Just one more question to make absolutely certain: There is no spring meant to keep the trip lever in position? The lever is only manipulated by the clutch design? |
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A question about cut Geissele triggers: Are the cuts needed to make the ARC-Fire work identical to the cuts needed to make a Hoffman super safety work? Can I buy a "super safe" cut Geissele from anybody, or send one of my Geisseles to any machinist who does super safety cuts and expect it to work? Or is it a cut unique to AS Designs? The Geissele triggers on AS Designs' website is advertised to work with both super safeties and the ARC-Fire, so I should be good to go, yes? I would buy from them, but they're out of stock. |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: A question about cut Geissele triggers: Are the cuts needed to make the ARC-Fire work identical to the cuts needed to make a Hoffman super safety work? Can I buy a "super safe" cut Geissele from anybody, or send one of my Geisseles to any machinist who does super safety cuts and expect it to work? Or is it a cut unique to AS Designs? The Geissele triggers on AS Designs' website is advertised to work with both super safeties and the ARC-Fire, so I should be good to go, yes? I would buy from them, but they're out of stock. Worked on mine more today. Over scalloped the right side, but it is a non-issue. Went further on the left side, bench tested and repeated a few times and got it going. Bench tested fine as well an 8 rounds in the backyard  
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Originally Posted By spyderboy03: I assume so. I went further on the left side based on someone's picture in the "is there consensus on the 'best'" thread. The right side really has no impact on function and you are just getting it out of the way. The standard angle cut is more than needs to come off but doesn't hurt anything. Worked on mine more today. Over scalloped the right side, but it is a non-issue. Went further on the left side, bench tested and repeated a few times and got it going. Bench tested fine as well an 8 rounds in the backyard https://i.imgur.com/VsMfa5k.jpeg Originally Posted By spyderboy03: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: A question about cut Geissele triggers: Are the cuts needed to make the ARC-Fire work identical to the cuts needed to make a Hoffman super safety work? Can I buy a "super safe" cut Geissele from anybody, or send one of my Geisseles to any machinist who does super safety cuts and expect it to work? Or is it a cut unique to AS Designs? The Geissele triggers on AS Designs' website is advertised to work with both super safeties and the ARC-Fire, so I should be good to go, yes? I would buy from them, but they're out of stock. Worked on mine more today. Over scalloped the right side, but it is a non-issue. Went further on the left side, bench tested and repeated a few times and got it going. Bench tested fine as well an 8 rounds in the backyard https://i.imgur.com/VsMfa5k.jpeg Thank you. I finally get to say I'm a Deez Nuts customer!  Like I said in the other thread, I think an ARC-Fire with a Geissele is going to be the best FRT on the market. |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Thank you. I finally get to say I'm a Deez Nuts customer! Like I said in the other thread, I think an ARC-Fire with a Geissele is going to be the best FRT on the market. Agreed on the combo. I really like the thickness of the selectors too. I agree with some that a little texture would be helpful, but I think that could just be some grooves the length of the levers. |
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Originally Posted By spyderboy03: Lol Agreed on the combo. I really like the thickness of the selectors too. I agree with some that a little texture would be helpful, but I think that could just be some groovers the length of the levers. Originally Posted By spyderboy03: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Thank you. I finally get to say I'm a Deez Nuts customer! Like I said in the other thread, I think an ARC-Fire with a Geissele is going to be the best FRT on the market. Agreed on the combo. I really like the thickness of the selectors too. I agree with some that a little texture would be helpful, but I think that could just be some groovers the length of the levers. Certainly. They say they're working on it, and it shouldn't be too hard an option to produce. It's not a huge deal, just something I would prefer. |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: I tested out my ARC Fire trigger today. I am exceptionally pleased! It has no trigger slap at all in semi auto mode, it has an okay to good mil spec trigger pull, and it ripped through a magazine of Wolf Gold effortlessly. Most pleasingly, it was truly drop in. No work needed on the tail of the trigger to make it fit like an Atrius. I ran it with an H3 buffer. Is that the consensus buffer to use with this trigger? Just one more question to make absolutely certain: There is no spring meant to keep the trip lever in position? The lever is only manipulated by the clutch design? In 99% of applications it's a H2 or H3 buffer, occasionally people can get by with H1 (though at a very high ROF). Yes, there is no spring, that is something we tested early on in our development and realized it could be a reliability issue especially if the hammer starts contacting it (which Hoffman agreed with and is one of the reasons he couldn't figure out how to make the original super safety something like this, though he probably wouldn't have split the cam and lever like we did). Originally Posted By ELittlefield: A question about cut Geissele triggers: Are the cuts needed to make the ARC-Fire work identical to the cuts needed to make a Hoffman super safety work? Can I buy a "super safe" cut Geissele from anybody, or send one of my Geisseles to any machinist who does super safety cuts and expect it to work? Or is it a cut unique to AS Designs? The Geissele triggers on AS Designs' website is advertised to work with both super safeties and the ARC-Fire, so I should be good to go, yes? I would buy from them, but they're out of stock. Yes, SS and ARC use the same reset area recess so triggers are mostly cross-compatible (there are occasional outliers or vendors that overcut SS triggers for better compatibility). DNT offers the Geissele precuts and we've tested them multiple times and they've been perfect, so much that we worked with them to share their machinist. We will have stock in a few weeks. We've been waiting on Geissele to ship our big order and this is the first time we've listed the Geisseles on our site without being part of our MP5 lowers. We've installed enough of them at this point in those lowers to be confident in offering them standalone. |
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Originally Posted By ASDesigns: In 99% of applications it's a H2 or H3 buffer, occasionally people can get by with H1 (though at a very high ROF). Yes, there is no spring, that is something we tested early on in our development and realized it could be a reliability issue especially if the hammer starts contacting it (which Hoffman agreed with and is one of the reasons he couldn't figure out how to make the original super safety something like this, though he probably wouldn't have split the cam and lever like we did). Yes, SS and ARC use the same reset area recess so triggers are mostly cross-compatible (there are occasional outliers or vendors that overcut SS triggers for better compatibility). DNT offers the Geissele precuts and we've tested them multiple times and they've been perfect, so much that we worked with them to share their machinist. We will have stock in a few weeks. We've been waiting on Geissele to ship our big order and this is the first time we've listed the Geisseles on our site without being part of our MP5 lowers. We've installed enough of them at this point in those lowers to be confident in offering them standalone. Originally Posted By ASDesigns: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: I tested out my ARC Fire trigger today. I am exceptionally pleased! It has no trigger slap at all in semi auto mode, it has an okay to good mil spec trigger pull, and it ripped through a magazine of Wolf Gold effortlessly. Most pleasingly, it was truly drop in. No work needed on the tail of the trigger to make it fit like an Atrius. I ran it with an H3 buffer. Is that the consensus buffer to use with this trigger? Just one more question to make absolutely certain: There is no spring meant to keep the trip lever in position? The lever is only manipulated by the clutch design? In 99% of applications it's a H2 or H3 buffer, occasionally people can get by with H1 (though at a very high ROF). Yes, there is no spring, that is something we tested early on in our development and realized it could be a reliability issue especially if the hammer starts contacting it (which Hoffman agreed with and is one of the reasons he couldn't figure out how to make the original super safety something like this, though he probably wouldn't have split the cam and lever like we did). Originally Posted By ELittlefield: A question about cut Geissele triggers: Are the cuts needed to make the ARC-Fire work identical to the cuts needed to make a Hoffman super safety work? Can I buy a "super safe" cut Geissele from anybody, or send one of my Geisseles to any machinist who does super safety cuts and expect it to work? Or is it a cut unique to AS Designs? The Geissele triggers on AS Designs' website is advertised to work with both super safeties and the ARC-Fire, so I should be good to go, yes? I would buy from them, but they're out of stock. Yes, SS and ARC use the same reset area recess so triggers are mostly cross-compatible (there are occasional outliers or vendors that overcut SS triggers for better compatibility). DNT offers the Geissele precuts and we've tested them multiple times and they've been perfect, so much that we worked with them to share their machinist. We will have stock in a few weeks. We've been waiting on Geissele to ship our big order and this is the first time we've listed the Geisseles on our site without being part of our MP5 lowers. We've installed enough of them at this point in those lowers to be confident in offering them standalone. I ordered one from Deez Nuts. Thank you! 
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Originally Posted By StealthyBlagga: Awesome, well done for being so responsive. I’d suggest offering the levers individually so folks can choose their preferred combination of size. We will offer all parts separately eventually. The levers will be first cause that's simple and our intended plan for people wanting to customize. The other parts will wait a bit until we have the inventory stabilized enough that people aren't building kits out of spare parts while the main kit is out of stock Also, I don't think it's been mentioned in this thread as we've mentioned it elsewhere (I think Reddit), we will be publishing the lever blanks prints for other 3rd parties to make their own ARC compatible levers. This would allow somebody like Radian to offer a ARC-Fire Talon selector set. Honestly if you had your own machinery or knew a local machinist, you could make whatever kind of selectors you wanted. We want to get everything dialed in fully before we release those, but they will be available. Additionally, non-ambi specific models are coming (you can take the ambi lever off the current ones, just doesn't look clone correct). We will have them made as a flat blank and then laser on the little line for position indication to offer both for people that think each one is "clone correct." We will get close, but the only thing we won't be able to offer is the primary selector looking perfectly like an original mil-spec due to the internal geometries that are built into it. I hope this provides a bit more information for those reading this thread as we didn't have a chance to address these questions when they came up before. |
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Originally Posted By ASDesigns: We will offer all parts separately eventually. The levers will be first cause that's simple and our intended plan for people wanting to customize. The other parts will wait a bit until we have the inventory stabilized enough that people aren't building kits out of spare parts while the main kit is out of stock Also, I don't think it's been mentioned in this thread as we've mentioned it elsewhere (I think Reddit), we will be publishing the lever blanks prints for other 3rd parties to make their own ARC compatible levers. This would allow somebody like Radian to offer a ARC-Fire Talon selector set. Honestly if you had your own machinery or knew a local machinist, you could make whatever kind of selectors you wanted. We want to get everything dialed in fully before we release those, but they will be available. Additionally, non-ambi specific models are coming (you can take the ambi lever off the current ones, just doesn't look clone correct). We will have them made as a flat blank and then laser on the little line for position indication to offer both for people that think each one is "clone correct." We will get close, but the only thing we won't be able to offer is the primary selector looking perfectly like an original mil-spec due to the internal geometries that are built into it. I hope this provides a bit more information for those reading this thread as we didn't have a chance to address these questions when they came up before. Originally Posted By ASDesigns: Originally Posted By StealthyBlagga: Awesome, well done for being so responsive. I’d suggest offering the levers individually so folks can choose their preferred combination of size. We will offer all parts separately eventually. The levers will be first cause that's simple and our intended plan for people wanting to customize. The other parts will wait a bit until we have the inventory stabilized enough that people aren't building kits out of spare parts while the main kit is out of stock Also, I don't think it's been mentioned in this thread as we've mentioned it elsewhere (I think Reddit), we will be publishing the lever blanks prints for other 3rd parties to make their own ARC compatible levers. This would allow somebody like Radian to offer a ARC-Fire Talon selector set. Honestly if you had your own machinery or knew a local machinist, you could make whatever kind of selectors you wanted. We want to get everything dialed in fully before we release those, but they will be available. Additionally, non-ambi specific models are coming (you can take the ambi lever off the current ones, just doesn't look clone correct). We will have them made as a flat blank and then laser on the little line for position indication to offer both for people that think each one is "clone correct." We will get close, but the only thing we won't be able to offer is the primary selector looking perfectly like an original mil-spec due to the internal geometries that are built into it. I hope this provides a bit more information for those reading this thread as we didn't have a chance to address these questions when they came up before. Whatever you’re doing, keep it up! I want your selectors to spread across the known universe like an unquenchable fire! |
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The post office delivered my package from ASD late last night, so I did not know until this morning it was in the mail box. I will attach a few pictures of the triggers they modded for me. The SS cut jig I show in the pictures is one another member printed for me. Hopefully the pictures can help some people. Sadly I do not have a un modified trigger to show side by side. I ordered two of the blem SSA's from primary arms on 11-27, but the post office has decided to send them on a scenic vacation across the east coast. They made it all the way to my town, to then be sent back out for some more scenic views where they are still at.  Anyways, the first two pictures are of the G2S I originally cut, and then they finished for me. The 2nd two pictures are a SSA-E that was unmodified when I sent it.   The SSA-E they cut   I installed the G2S into my old DPMS 20in rifle. I have posted pictures of it in this thread at some point. It is just a standard 20in with rifle stock/buffer, tubbs flat wire buffer spring, full auto BCG. The SSA-E I installed into my 16in carbine. It has a 16in mid length gas with a superlative arms gas piston kit. Carbine stock, H3 buffer, tubbs flat wire buffer spring. I brought out 100 rounds. Loaded one 30 round mag, and then 20 rounds in another. So 50 rounds per rifle. I started with the 20in rifle, and the mag with 20 rounds. I shot 10 rounds semi auto with zero issues. Man I forgot how much I missed a nice trigger! I then switched to forced reset and dumped the last 10 with zero issues. I then put in the 30 round mag and did a full dump with zero issues. It ripped through it like a champ. If anyone here has never shot a 20in rifle with a FRT, you should! 20 inch is the best inch! I then repeated the same thing with the carbine. All went well except for half way through the full 30 round mag, it stopped. I checked and I had a empty chamber. It finished out the rest of the mag fine. That would very well could have been ammo or gun related. I will need further testing to see if it does it again. I am SO happy to have a nice semi auto trigger pull and forced reset! Now all I need are the equal length milspec style safety levers and I will be complete. I want to order another ARC, but I will wait until the milspec levers come out, and then order it and the levers for the two I have all at the same time. |
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| I have 3 triggers, the one in my main gun that I cut a Ssae-x for works fantastic, function checks and all that. The uther 2 in stock lowers with the included trigger don’t function check, specifically if you press the hammer down in arc fire mode and move the lever back it binds. I tested with a super safety and a couple other precut triggers, same. I’m wondering if the lever could be a bit out of spec, the issue it the left side of the trigger needs sanded more but I would expect the trigger that came with it to be cut right and it works fine with super safeties. Will reach out tomorrow before I take out my dremel as if it binds when you press the hammer down in super safe it will snap the lever. |
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Runs 100% in a Wolf A1 piston upper with carbine spring/buffer. Quite controllable from a bipod. Going to try a Spikes ST2 and a RRA 9mm buffer to see if I can slow it down a little. Keep up the good work AS Desings. Looking forward to your improved selectors coming out. |
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I haven’t heard back from ASD but can someone with an ARC do this test with stock trigger? Put the safety in semi and press down the hammer, see if the lever goes all the way back to the takedown pin. Repeat with the safety in arc fire mode. Do you experience binding? Trying to figure out if I have an out of spec part OR if that’s expected with arc. I know in SS land or any other similar FRT you need the lever to swing freely back to the takedown pin on semi and SS modes or it will eventually snap. Polling the audience here
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Originally Posted By jclendineng: I haven’t heard back from ASD but can someone with an ARC do this test with stock trigger? Put the safety in semi and press down the hammer, see if the lever goes all the way back to the takedown pin. Repeat with the safety in arc fire mode. Do you experience binding? Trying to figure out if I have an out of spec part OR if that’s expected with arc. I know in SS land or any other similar FRT you need the lever to swing freely back to the takedown pin on semi and SS modes or it will eventually snap. Polling the audience here Zero binding in either mode. The hammer down bind test was part of my initial install, and I just did it again to confirm for you.  " />
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I've got my stripped one I built with an arc fire I purchased separately. Problem was it was for the AP 53. ASD has now paused development of the 53 slip trip. That's concerning to me as this lower will not fit my MP5 or MP5K. I've got an expensive paperweight currently. I emailed asking for clarification of the word paused  hoping against hope that they just meant paused for a week or so.Patiently waiting for a (hopefully) Christmas miracle! I believe in |
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Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: The post office delivered my package from ASD late last night, so I did not know until this morning it was in the mail box. I will attach a few pictures of the triggers they modded for me. The SS cut jig I show in the pictures is one another member printed for me. Hopefully the pictures can help some people. Sadly I do not have a un modified trigger to show side by side. I ordered two of the blem SSA's from primary arms on 11-27, but the post office has decided to send them on a scenic vacation across the east coast. They made it all the way to my town, to then be sent back out for some more scenic views where they are still at. Anyways, the first two pictures are of the G2S I originally cut, and then they finished for me. The 2nd two pictures are a SSA-E that was unmodified when I sent it. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54970356749_6259c95129_b.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54970356699_3f8236c602_b.jpg The SSA-E they cut https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54970279113_b7c93479eb_b.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54970405155_70428bba69_b.jpg I installed the G2S into my old DPMS 20in rifle. I have posted pictures of it in this thread at some point. It is just a standard 20in with rifle stock/buffer, tubbs flat wire buffer spring, full auto BCG. The SSA-E I installed into my 16in carbine. It has a 16in mid length gas with a superlative arms gas piston kit. Carbine stock, H3 buffer, tubbs flat wire buffer spring. I brought out 100 rounds. Loaded one 30 round mag, and then 20 rounds in another. So 50 rounds per rifle. I started with the 20in rifle, and the mag with 20 rounds. I shot 10 rounds semi auto with zero issues. Man I forgot how much I missed a nice trigger! I then switched to forced reset and dumped the last 10 with zero issues. I then put in the 30 round mag and did a full dump with zero issues. It ripped through it like a champ. If anyone here has never shot a 20in rifle with a FRT, you should! 20 inch is the best inch! I then repeated the same thing with the carbine. All went well except for half way through the full 30 round mag, it stopped. I checked and I had a empty chamber. It finished out the rest of the mag fine. That would very well could have been ammo or gun related. I will need further testing to see if it does it again. I am SO happy to have a nice semi auto trigger pull and forced reset! Now all I need are the equal length milspec style safety levers and I will be complete. I want to order another ARC, but I will wait until the milspec levers come out, and then order it and the levers for the two I have all at the same time. My blem SSA's from primary arms finally showed up. I have not been able to find a single blemish on either of them. Anyways, here are a couple pictures of one of them in the same trim jig to give a comparison of how much was trimmed/removed. I quoted my post with the other pictures to hopefully make it easier to see.  
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Originally Posted By AbstractIdeas: Does the arc fire need the rear of the receiver milled out like the Hoffman ss? Aka a m16 cut receiver pocket? The SS and ARC (and most systems that aren't cassettes) need a low shelf lower, but do not need a M16 pocket. Originally Posted By HKH: Yeesh ASD This hurts Is there any hope? Originally Posted By HKH: I've got my stripped one I built with an arc fire I purchased separately. Problem was it was for the AP 53. ASD has now paused development of the 53 slip trip. That's concerning to me as this lower will not fit my MP5 or MP5K. I've got an expensive paperweight currently. I emailed asking for clarification of the word paused hoping against hope that they just meant paused for a week or so.Patiently waiting for a (hopefully) Christmas miracle! I believe in It's paused. We are still working on coming up with a solution for it, but Century ruined most of these bolt carriers for doing anything like the MP5 (i.e. AP51 is absolutely a no-go). The main solution we've been trying to get running with it (which, it does run) is unreliable and potentially hazardous if it failed, so back to the drawing board. |
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Originally Posted By ASDesigns: The SS and ARC (and most systems that aren't cassettes) need a low shelf lower, but do not need a M16 pocket. It's paused. We are still working on coming up with a solution for it, but Century ruined most of these bolt carriers for doing anything like the MP5 (i.e. AP51 is absolutely a no-go). The main solution we've been trying to get running with it (which, it does run) is unreliable and potentially hazardous if it failed, so back to the drawing board. What if a man has an HK 53 bolt carrier? Just sayin’ 
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Well, it's not going in an AP53, lol But yes, there would be a solution for that (the slip trip we're trying to finalize for PTR/HK94 shelf guns uses the auto sear area of the bolt to reset and it will fit all the lowers pretty much, like if people were to have FA bolts in like a Century AP53 for some reason).
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Originally Posted By rojotx: A question I'm interested in as well. Ordered complete ARC Fire lower for an MKE. Originally Posted By rojotx: Originally Posted By 68MUDSTUD: anyone else preorder an ap5 arc fire lower (complete) and get theirs yet? A question I'm interested in as well. Ordered complete ARC Fire lower for an MKE. Same boat, been searching online quite a bit to see if anyone has heard anything. I don’t know when preorder was, but ordered mid September at number 1006X with a G trigger. |
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Originally Posted By YourAlterEgo: Same boat, been searching online quite a bit to see if anyone has heard anything. I don’t know when preorder was, but ordered mid September at number 1006X with a G trigger. Originally Posted By YourAlterEgo: Originally Posted By rojotx: Originally Posted By 68MUDSTUD: anyone else preorder an ap5 arc fire lower (complete) and get theirs yet? A question I'm interested in as well. Ordered complete ARC Fire lower for an MKE. Same boat, been searching online quite a bit to see if anyone has heard anything. I don’t know when preorder was, but ordered mid September at number 1006X with a G trigger. End of October on mine..12XXX I emailed and got a response that parts arrived, orders being filled by number. |
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@ASDESIGNS Hey fellas Just ran into a strange issue. I’ve got the arc installed with your supplied trigger and it’s in a psa Sabre matched set in 300 blackout. 10.3” Hanson profile and gassed tuned. I’ve never seen this so I’m hoping it’s just a trigger shaving issue I may need to do. With 220gn subs it shoots semi in semi and in FRT. with 200gn subs it shoots semi in semi and no shit 3rd burst in FRT. legit, it only shoots 3rds and stops. But it doesn’t have a dead trigger. I just release the trigger to reset it and the next squeeze gives a 3 rd burst. I’m not complaining as it’s definitely unique but what do y’all think is happening.It does pass function check, but in live fire it performs as stated above. This is the first time testing this arc unit. |
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Originally Posted By HKH: @ASDESIGNS Hey fellas Just ran into a strange issue. I’ve got the arc installed with your supplied trigger and it’s in a psa Sabre matched set in 300 blackout. 10.3” Hanson profile and gassed tuned. I’ve never seen this so I’m hoping it’s just a trigger shaving issue I may need to do. With 220gn subs it shoots semi in semi and in FRT. with 200gn subs it shoots semi in semi and no shit 3rd burst in FRT. legit, it only shoots 3rds and stops. But it doesn’t have a dead trigger. I just release the trigger to reset it and the next squeeze gives a 3 rd burst. I’m not complaining as it’s definitely unique but what do y’all think is happening.It does pass function check, but in live fire it performs as stated above. This is the first time testing this arc unit. sounds like a feature not a bug to me lol |
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Originally Posted By HKH: @ASDESIGNS Hey fellas Just ran into a strange issue. I’ve got the arc installed with your supplied trigger and it’s in a psa Sabre matched set in 300 blackout. 10.3” Hanson profile and gassed tuned. I’ve never seen this so I’m hoping it’s just a trigger shaving issue I may need to do. With 220gn subs it shoots semi in semi and in FRT. with 200gn subs it shoots semi in semi and no shit 3rd burst in FRT. legit, it only shoots 3rds and stops. But it doesn’t have a dead trigger. I just release the trigger to reset it and the next squeeze gives a 3 rd burst. I’m not complaining as it’s definitely unique but what do y’all think is happening.It does pass function check, but in live fire it performs as stated above. This is the first time testing this arc unit. Totally a feature... totally, lol. It honestly sounds like it's just one click off on the gas setting for 200s. Most people get 2rds, but I've had some guns that'll be 4 or 5rds consistently and they just needed a slight tweak to gas, buffer spring, or buffer weight. 300BO is definitely the most finicky to get running, especially with the huge variety in bullet weights and powder loads and bullet types. |
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A little update from our friends at BoreBuddy for AR22 compatibility. They finished testing on the ARC-Fire and have certified it for use with their kits. They'll be releasing a kit for it (includes the trip and a shim to advance the reset timing where they wanted it). Their general consensus was something like "this is the best FRT we've tested and has matched our M16 lower in reliability so far which no other FRT has come close to." So take that how you will from some guys that test pretty much all the FRTs out there and have zero investment in which one customers buy 
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Originally Posted By ASDesigns: A little update from our friends at BoreBuddy for AR22 compatibility. They finished testing on the ARC-Fire and have certified it for use with their kits. They'll be releasing a kit for it (includes the trip and a shim to advance the reset timing where they wanted it). Their general consensus was something like "this is the best FRT we've tested and has matched our M16 lower in reliability so far which no other FRT has come close to." So take that how you will from some guys that test pretty much all the FRTs out there and have zero investment in which one customers buy Terrific! Bore Buddy is an incredible resource for the gun community. |
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Originally Posted By ASDesigns: A little update from our friends at BoreBuddy for AR22 compatibility. They finished testing on the ARC-Fire and have certified it for use with their kits. They'll be releasing a kit for it (includes the trip and a shim to advance the reset timing where they wanted it). Their general consensus was something like "this is the best FRT we've tested and has matched our M16 lower in reliability so far which no other FRT has come close to." So take that how you will from some guys that test pretty much all the FRTs out there and have zero investment in which one customers buy By the way, did they mention a timeline for when they're releasing that kit? |
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Originally Posted By ASDesigns: A little update from our friends at BoreBuddy for AR22 compatibility. They finished testing on the ARC-Fire and have certified it for use with their kits. They'll be releasing a kit for it (includes the trip and a shim to advance the reset timing where they wanted it). Their general consensus was something like "this is the best FRT we've tested and has matched our M16 lower in reliability so far which no other FRT has come close to." So take that how you will from some guys that test pretty much all the FRTs out there and have zero investment in which one customers buy Interesting, as I just tested my arc-fire with my bore buddy upper and it will not run. So I am guessing it requires a special trip to make it work? Fuck I am getting so tired of throwing parts at this 22 trying to get the fucking thing to run. |
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Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: Interesting, as I just tested my arc-fire with my bore buddy upper and it will not run. So I am guessing it requires a special trip to make it work? Fuck I am getting so tired of throwing parts at this 22 trying to get the fucking thing to run. Should be the same trip for a super safety/selector which you have. Can you take a picture of all the parts you are using and post it? You will need to adjust the trip so that it activates the lever enough to reset the trigger. Attached File |
NRA Life Member
I can see where you're coming from, 'cause I know where you've been and I can see where you're going 'cause I can see the direction you're headed in. I just don't know where the hell you're at right now.
I can see where you're coming from, 'cause I know where you've been and I can see where you're going 'cause I can see the direction you're headed in. I just don't know where the hell you're at right now.
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Originally Posted By ARKAR: Should be the same trip for a super safety/selector which you have. Can you take a picture of all the parts you are using and post it? Well he said "it includes a kit and shim", kinda insinuating it is something different. I've been fighting it in this thread: https://www.ar15.com/forums/ar-15/Who-here-is-using-a-FRT-with-a-22LR-What-is-your-setup-/130-790783/ I have a complete 16in BB upper, quiet collar, bolt buffer, stainless weight kit with aluminum, stainless, and lead weights (they no longer offer the tungsten), franklin armory extra power recoil spring, I have both the full auto trip and a SS trip. |
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The included other parts are for people that haven’t already purchased anything. You have everything you need. I’m the member that posted all the pictures a few days ago. You stated that you hadn’t tried to adjust the trip. I wish you lived closer, we would get your setup running. You need to remove the Franklin extra power spring. Is that what you have installed in your .22 bolt carrier kit? |
NRA Life Member
I can see where you're coming from, 'cause I know where you've been and I can see where you're going 'cause I can see the direction you're headed in. I just don't know where the hell you're at right now.
I can see where you're coming from, 'cause I know where you've been and I can see where you're going 'cause I can see the direction you're headed in. I just don't know where the hell you're at right now.
ARC-Fire Talk (G$ trigger mod instructions inside) (Page 13 of 28)
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