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ARC-Fire Talk (G$ trigger mod instructions inside) (Page 12 of 28)
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Order 23***. I suspect Santa will be delivering mine. I also ordered the cornfire a couple days after and it’s already been shipped. I’m excited that this one doesn’t require a trigger cut. |
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Originally Posted By Jeremy2171: Easiest fix is a lever blocker. Originally Posted By Jeremy2171: Originally Posted By Texasmusic: Has anyone had an issue with the lever falling too far forward with a milspec hammer? If I hold the rifle pointed downward the BCG will basically over-center on the lever & it will be a hard stop when trying to retract the bolt. When holding it upwards the lever falls back slightly under gravity & it is allowed to rotate normally. Using their trigger & a Colt 6920 hammer. Only happens in Safe / Semi positions since the lever is held slightly further back in the 3rd pos. A small piece of heat shrink on the hammer alleviated the issue in testing. I haven't gotten very far with the email support. https://i.ibb.co/BV61dxpt/Screenshot-2025-11-24-153619.png The lever blocker doesn't fit around the mil hammer |
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Originally Posted By Corn-fed-556: I’ve got mine installed in my Leber v2 lower. Shaft definitely seems a little long, like there’s some extra side to side play in the lever that wasn’t there on the Atrius due to the spring tension. However, dry function test seems to be good. I’m not sure when I’ll get out for a live fire test. How are we looking on tolerance? I don’t have calipers to confirm length. [tweet]https://x.com/cornfed_pleb/status/1985859118502990226?s=46[/tweet] Finally got out to live fire test my ARC in the leber v2 sp5. Runs like an absolute top. Used the included trigger and my own rounded hammer. The timing is very smooth. |
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Originally Posted By maggiethecat: Has anyone put this in a Leber V2 lower? Seems like the lower is too wide. Hope I didnt get too far ahead of myself. Multiple versions of the Leber v2, one has the selector "cut out". Just look in the file pack, you'll see it. Attached File |
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Originally Posted By Bye_Felicia: Multiple versions of the Leber v2, one has the selector "cut out". Just look in the file pack, you'll see it. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/40084/470_jpg-3666983.JPG Thank you sir. My Leber file was from May. Got the new file. time to print again I guess. anyone want a lower? |
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Tried mine yet again, BCG dripping wet (just in case) and it was a three shot wonder and then would either not pick up the next round or would jam a bullet into the top of the receiver (BCG moving too slow). This is in a 9mm PCC with a modified Geissele trigger. Going to transfer everything over to a 5.56 setup and see if things improve and the PCC will go back to the $100 Super Safety which worked without a hitch. |
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 Hello everyone! Appreciate all the feedback and support we've received in here! Took a bit to get our vendor account approved (probably a spam filter hiding our email to admins, no biggie), but we'll try to be active on here as time allows... ignore the time I'm posting this at... haha Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: I would be down for another one, but I am waiting on the results of the two I have right now. They should be getting to them soon. If they are able to get my ARC's and G triggers fitted and working, then I will hopefully be able to see where and how much needs to be taken off them to properly work. Then I will be down for another one. We did want to clarify what was done to make your G$ functional. You didn't remove quite enough material off the right side (the angle cut, not the rounding). We fixed that one and then cut/rounded the other one, did function checks, and ran a few rounds through for live test, should be all good. |
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Originally Posted By georgeib: If drag is the issue, perhaps a lighter buffer would be the solution. FWIW. I'm at a 3oz. buffer weight now (radial delayed not blowback). I also have an adjustable buffer but honestly the cheap super safety from Fudd Arms worked like a charm. Tired of spending the time and money to go to the range every weekend only to have it fail. I've dealt with the AS Designs and the Atrius and neither worked out of the box. My AS Desigs was used with a Geissele SSA I modified so waiting to see what develops with that. I do have the lever blocker in place. |
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Originally Posted By ASDesigns: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/608566/1_oX2S3kaIrKJgcLQbjzYgpA_2x-3669744.jpg Hello everyone! Appreciate all the feedback and support we've received in here! Took a bit to get our vendor account approved (probably a spam filter hiding our email to admins, no biggie), but we'll try to be active on here as time allows... ignore the time I'm posting this at... haha We did want to clarify what was done to make your G$ functional. You didn't remove quite enough material off the right side (the angle cut, not the rounding). We fixed that one and then cut/rounded the other one, did function checks, and ran a few rounds through for live test, should be all good. Originally Posted By ASDesigns: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/608566/1_oX2S3kaIrKJgcLQbjzYgpA_2x-3669744.jpg Hello everyone! Appreciate all the feedback and support we've received in here! Took a bit to get our vendor account approved (probably a spam filter hiding our email to admins, no biggie), but we'll try to be active on here as time allows... ignore the time I'm posting this at... haha Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: I would be down for another one, but I am waiting on the results of the two I have right now. They should be getting to them soon. If they are able to get my ARC's and G triggers fitted and working, then I will hopefully be able to see where and how much needs to be taken off them to properly work. Then I will be down for another one. We did want to clarify what was done to make your G$ functional. You didn't remove quite enough material off the right side (the angle cut, not the rounding). We fixed that one and then cut/rounded the other one, did function checks, and ran a few rounds through for live test, should be all good. Glad to see you here. Hopefully you being here helps things along. I am also glad to hear you got my triggers working, and glad to hear I did not go too far with my fitting. As I have mentioned in past posts, I really felt like I did not go too far, but had no way of knowing for sure, and was starting to fear that I did. I am looking forward to getting them back and comparing them to unmodified triggers to see the difference. Have they shipped back out yet? Also, I figure the answer is no, but do you have any plans on making right side levers that are the same length as the left? Even if this is optional and must be purchased separately, I would buy them. I really really prefer both levers to the be same (original) length. Having the right side lever short really makes it harder to use for those shooting lefty. And lastly, just a tiny gripe, maybe a little constructive criticism, could you start adding some type of texture to the levers? Some type of serrations similar to OE safeties would be great. The butter smooth levers do make it kinda easy for the finger to slip off. This is not required, but it would be a user friendly upgrade. |
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Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: My hammer would not fall at first. It acted like the safety was on. I removed only just enough to allow the hammer to fall, nothing more. Did not matter if a upper was on it or not, hammer would not fall until I trimmed the left side some, and I took off only just enough to let the hammer fall. I cut the right side on my Geissele SSA and also had to remove a bit of material on the left and round off the corner on the left side as well before the hammer would drop. I saw a post on Instagram talking about the left side and the need to remove a bit of material there and round the corner. But even with that, it will function for 2-3 shots and then it fails to pick up the next round or a bullet doesn't feed correctly and it jams. Also...in normal semi-auto, it'll run through an entire 30 round magazine as fast as I can pull the trigger. |
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Originally Posted By ASDesigns:We did want to clarify what was done to make your G$ functional. You didn't remove quite enough material off the right side (the angle cut, not the rounding). We fixed that one and then cut/rounded the other one, did function checks, and ran a few rounds through for live test, should be all good. |
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You'll see a curved line on the Geissele and you can just follow that to start. If you drop it in and it doesn't work, you may need to take a very small amount off the top of the left side and round the corner slightly. I'll try to take a pic today. I need to pull the trigger out of the lower first. |
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Originally Posted By Ape_Factory: You'll see a curved line on the Geissele and you can just follow that to start. If you drop it in and it doesn't work, you may need to take a very small amount off the top of the left side and round the corner slightly. I'll try to take a pic today. I need to pull the trigger out of the lower first. |
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Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: …could you start adding some type of texture to the levers? Some type of serrations similar to OE safeties would be great… not required, but it would be a user friendly upgrade. It needs more than just texturing - the lever should be substantially thicker and more prominent, like a GI selector at a minimum. It’s not a “nice to have” either; I ran my ARC Fire in an action rifle match last weekend and switched between fire modes during the course of fire - ARC for open targets, semi for tight targets with adjacent no-shoots. I found switching mode on the clock to be slow and clumsy. I’d happily buy an improved selector lever as an extra-cost accessory. In the absence of one being available, I‘m planning to build up the original lever with weld and optimize the profile for quicker actuation. |
My trigger wasn't working at all, now it is working after I took the right side scallop further towards the trigger and engraving. This is before I did that. After taking it a touch further, my trigger now works and feels normal in semi. However, it remains in semi in the forced reset position. This is with the the lever blocker installed. I have not tried it without the blocker. This is a full Geissele build. Geissele lower, upper, REBCG, etc. Then there is this. No idea how it happened. It came out like this when I removed the trigger for the above picture. Not sure if that is impacting the forced reset function. ETA: I have redone the function test without the upper on. The piece that chipped off the transfer lever should be rotating the cam to reset the trigger. Since it is broken, it can't reset the trigger.  |
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Originally Posted By HKH: Did you fire the gun? Or is that just from test function checks? Can you post a closer image of the exposed metal? |
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Originally Posted By spyderboy03: I hadn't even function checked it yet. That's from before I trimmed the trigger enough to even function in semi auto when all I was doing was rotating the selector from safe to semi to frt and back. I'll try to get a better picture in a bit. Was this without the lever blocker installed? |
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Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: Have they shipped back out yet? Yep, should be there tomorrow from USPS. Also, I figure the answer is no, but do you have any plans on making right side levers that are the same length as the left? Even if this is optional and must be purchased separately, I would buy them. Yes, we just got samples for them, we're working on getting production in. And lastly, just a tiny gripe, maybe a little constructive criticism, could you start adding some type of texture to the levers? Some type of serrations similar to OE safeties would be great. The butter smooth levers do make it kinda easy for the finger to slip off. . Originally Posted By StealthyBlagga: It needs more than just texturing - the lever should be substantially thicker and more prominent, like a GI selector at a minimum. It’s not a “nice to have” either; I ran my ARC Fire in an action rifle match last weekend and switched between fire modes during the course of fire - ARC for open targets, semi for tight targets with adjacent no-shoots. I found switching mode on the clock to be slow and clumsy. I’d happily buy an improved selector lever as an extra-cost accessory. In the absence of one being available, I‘m planning to build up the original lever with weld and optimize the profile for quicker actuation. We're doing two things where we're going to add some texture to the current design and then we're also making mil-spec style selectors to swap them out with, including longer ambi side. These will be a few weeks, but they're coming and trying to keep price reasonable. Here's the samples I installed on the upcoming B&T lower prototype:   Originally Posted By spyderboy03: My trigger wasn't working at all, now it is working after I took the right side scallop further towards the trigger and engraving. This is before I did that. After taking it a touch further, my trigger now works and feels normal in semi. However, it remains in semi in the forced reset position. This is with the the lever blocker installed. I have not tried it without the blocker. This is a full Geissele build. Geissele lower, upper, REBCG, etc. Then there is this. No idea how it happened. It came out like this when I removed the trigger for the above picture. Not sure if that is impacting the forced reset function. ETA: I have redone the function test without the upper on. The piece that chipped off the transfer lever should be rotating the cam to reset the trigger. Since it is broken, it can't reset the trigger. It looks like your left side of the trigger wasn't rounded or modified at all. All triggers, including Geissele, need to be modified before being installed with ARC. If it were installed without the lever blocker or cam and the positions were switched a few times until the lever caught the side of the uncut trigger (which based on the small gouge in it, maybe it did), then it was forced to move from that position it could cause that breakage. Not really sure how else it would occur since that area isn't under stress in any normal operation. We can replace the transfer lever, but it should function fine even with that area missing (that area just shields the internal surfaces from powder/residue a little better), the cam does the reset technically not the lever. If it's not resetting, it's because it hasn't been modified correctly. |
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YES!! Put me down for a set of equal length mil spec style levers for both of mine! If this all comes to fruition, I will have my complete wet dream. 3 position FRT with nice G$ semi auto trigger pull, ambi safety with equal length mil spec style safety levers. If I get these two working, then I am more than ready to ditch the crap-tastic dairyland defense I currently have in my 9mm. I will probably wait to order one for it until I can order it with the equal length mil style safety levers. |
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Lulz just did a couple mag dumps with this gun. Replaced the two steel weights in the LWRC UCIW buffer with tungsten weights and it’s on the bleeding edge of functionality. 11.5” Noveske bbl and G$ everything else upper wise. The ROF is retarded fast. Really needs a heavier buffer but it works. Proper guidance from ASD on cutting G$ triggers will be nice, or I’ll sell it for another Cornfire MARC that (my sample size of one so far) works with an uncut trigger. Attached File |
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Originally Posted By ASDesigns: Yep, should be there tomorrow from USPS. Yes, we just got samples for them, we're working on getting production in. We're doing two things where we're going to add some texture to the current design and then we're also making mil-spec style selectors to swap them out with, including longer ambi side. These will be a few weeks, but they're coming and trying to keep price reasonable. Here's the samples I installed on the upcoming B&T lower prototype: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/608566/001be2bd-7f82-4a6c-8b50-e84f6d745d49-3670583.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/608566/d3b922a3-7269-4c59-b1fc-749eaf1703e0-3670584.jpg It looks like your left side of the trigger wasn't rounded or modified at all. All triggers, including Geissele, need to be modified before being installed with ARC. If it were installed without the lever blocker or cam and the positions were switched a few times until the lever caught the side of the uncut trigger (which based on the small gouge in it, maybe it did), then it was forced to move from that position it could cause that breakage. Not really sure how else it would occur since that area isn't under stress in any normal operation. We can replace the transfer lever, but it should function fine even with that area missing (that area just shields the internal surfaces from powder/residue a little better), the cam does the reset technically not the lever. If it's not resetting, it's because it hasn't been modified correctly. Originally Posted By ASDesigns: Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: Have they shipped back out yet? Yep, should be there tomorrow from USPS. Also, I figure the answer is no, but do you have any plans on making right side levers that are the same length as the left? Even if this is optional and must be purchased separately, I would buy them. Yes, we just got samples for them, we're working on getting production in. And lastly, just a tiny gripe, maybe a little constructive criticism, could you start adding some type of texture to the levers? Some type of serrations similar to OE safeties would be great. The butter smooth levers do make it kinda easy for the finger to slip off. . Originally Posted By StealthyBlagga: It needs more than just texturing - the lever should be substantially thicker and more prominent, like a GI selector at a minimum. It’s not a “nice to have” either; I ran my ARC Fire in an action rifle match last weekend and switched between fire modes during the course of fire - ARC for open targets, semi for tight targets with adjacent no-shoots. I found switching mode on the clock to be slow and clumsy. I’d happily buy an improved selector lever as an extra-cost accessory. In the absence of one being available, I‘m planning to build up the original lever with weld and optimize the profile for quicker actuation. We're doing two things where we're going to add some texture to the current design and then we're also making mil-spec style selectors to swap them out with, including longer ambi side. These will be a few weeks, but they're coming and trying to keep price reasonable. Here's the samples I installed on the upcoming B&T lower prototype: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/608566/001be2bd-7f82-4a6c-8b50-e84f6d745d49-3670583.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/608566/d3b922a3-7269-4c59-b1fc-749eaf1703e0-3670584.jpg Originally Posted By spyderboy03: My trigger wasn't working at all, now it is working after I took the right side scallop further towards the trigger and engraving. This is before I did that. After taking it a touch further, my trigger now works and feels normal in semi. However, it remains in semi in the forced reset position. This is with the the lever blocker installed. I have not tried it without the blocker. This is a full Geissele build. Geissele lower, upper, REBCG, etc. Then there is this. No idea how it happened. It came out like this when I removed the trigger for the above picture. Not sure if that is impacting the forced reset function. ETA: I have redone the function test without the upper on. The piece that chipped off the transfer lever should be rotating the cam to reset the trigger. Since it is broken, it can't reset the trigger. It looks like your left side of the trigger wasn't rounded or modified at all. All triggers, including Geissele, need to be modified before being installed with ARC. If it were installed without the lever blocker or cam and the positions were switched a few times until the lever caught the side of the uncut trigger (which based on the small gouge in it, maybe it did), then it was forced to move from that position it could cause that breakage. Not really sure how else it would occur since that area isn't under stress in any normal operation. We can replace the transfer lever, but it should function fine even with that area missing (that area just shields the internal surfaces from powder/residue a little better), the cam does the reset technically not the lever. If it's not resetting, it's because it hasn't been modified correctly. I’m happy to see both you guys (cornfire & ASD) representing here on ARFCOM and am happy with your products. Whoever gets an ambi mil spec style safety compatible with G$ triggers with the least amount of mods necessary will win my money. I’m not the end all-be all of customer base, but that’s the grail for me personally. I have a lot of G$ triggers and don’t want to compromise that delicious 2 stage semi auto goodness. Raregreed and other cassette types can fuck right off. |
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Here's short guide on areas to look out for when modifying the trigger
I know modifying the trigger is a PITA but it really does come with significant durability benefits as it allows the cam and lever to be significantly thicker at the most critical area and this pushes the lifespan of the parts well into the 20K+ range consistently even with firm pressure on the trigger. I am currently working on a video showing actual proof of this in a extremely abusive platform that should be out in a few months. Also for anyone who isn't comfortable with cutting a trigger all DNT pre cut Geissele triggers should be plug and play with ARC. |
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Originally Posted By ASDesigns:It looks like your left side of the trigger wasn't rounded or modified at all. All triggers, including Geissele, need to be modified before being installed with ARC. If it were installed without the lever blocker or cam and the positions were switched a few times until the lever caught the side of the uncut trigger (which based on the small gouge in it, maybe it did), then it was forced to move from that position it could cause that breakage. Not really sure how else it would occur since that area isn't under stress in any normal operation. We can replace the transfer lever, but it should function fine even with that area missing (that area just shields the internal surfaces from powder/residue a little better), the cam does the reset technically not the lever. If it's not resetting, it's because it hasn't been modified correctly.   . I didn't rotate the selector at all without the whole thing being assembled. There was one time it would not go past semi, so I took the left lever off, took the cam out, reinstalled the cam and lever and it was good after that. My understanding of the system (possibly incorrect) is that the right side of the trigger needs clearance to operate in semi. The left side needs rounded to work with the cam to reset the trigger in FRT mode. I didn't think the trigger should work at all in FRT mode if the left side wasn't rounded enough. Is that incorrect thinking? As is, my trigger fires and resets exactly the same as semi while in FRT and the reset lever just freely floats and doesn't turn the cam at all. I'll try putting a radius on the left side tonight and see what happens based on you saying the broken piece shouldn't impact function of the reset lever and cam. ETA: a lever blocker was installed for all attempts |
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Originally Posted By ASDesigns: …we're going to add some texture to the current design and then we're also making mil-spec style selectors to swap them out with, including longer ambi side. These will be a few weeks, but they're coming and trying to keep price reasonable… Awesome, well done for being so responsive. I’d suggest offering the levers individually so folks can choose their preferred combination of size. |
ARC-Fire Talk (G$ trigger mod instructions inside) (Page 12 of 28)
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