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Link Posted: 10/21/2010 11:39:37 AM EDT
[#1]
Link Posted: 10/21/2010 12:28:53 PM EDT
[#2]
sorry, I figured with over 35K posts the dude should know what a sear spring is....
Link Posted: 10/21/2010 2:34:03 PM EDT
[#3]
Link Posted: 10/21/2010 5:57:20 PM EDT
[#4]
Quoted:
sorry, I figured with over 35K posts the dude should know what a sear spring is....


This is the kind of thing Larry Vickers was referring to. Misinformation.

OP, maybe for legal security, you should ask a mod or staff to delete this thread. I would, but I'm paranoid.
Link Posted: 10/21/2010 8:42:41 PM EDT
[#5]
I may be new here but if Stickman was posting a question for an answer it has to be for legit informational purposes.

I know on my build if Stickman asked me something I would not want to bullshit around with some snarky remark to him.  It would be in my best interest not to have the alphabet bubbas knocking on my front door with silver bracelets and a one way ticket to the cornhole motel.
Kind of a hijack sorry.

Now Mr. Stickman which part for this parts noob am I looking at?  Magwell side or tube side?
Link Posted: 10/22/2010 4:59:41 AM EDT
[#6]
replace the trigger and the hammer looks to me by the uneven wear on the hammer engagement area that someone polished the the area or stoned it to "smooth" the trigger out take a look at the pics again check them out
Link Posted: 10/22/2010 5:15:15 AM EDT
[#7]
Quoted:
Quoted:
sorry, I figured with over 35K posts the dude should know what a sear spring is....




I think if rule #5 and #7 were followed (LINK), it would be a big help.  The focus of the board has drifted, but it looks like Aimless is taking it on his shoulders to start cleaning up the tech forums.  He needs a lot of help.  There are a lot of honest mistakes, but the problem is increased when people are posting what they read from someone else, who posted bad info.


This is for damn sure.
Link Posted: 10/22/2010 5:22:02 AM EDT
[#8]
Quoted:
Quoted:
The sear spring is looking a bit "off"




How so???


It is a bit "off" as in completly left "off" the gun???
Link Posted: 10/22/2010 5:39:07 AM EDT
[#9]
Look at the pics of the fire control group…
I really think you are missing the disconnector spring.

http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=2&f=282&t=186316
Link Posted: 10/22/2010 11:15:26 PM EDT
[#10]
Quoted:
A quick, safe, easy way to fix this would be to pull out the all the FCG components, throw them away, and replace it all with new.  I only mention this because there was a member of another forum who ended up doing a year in prison because his gun he bought used went FA and ended up having an M16 part in it.  If there is no way to tell what the guy did or what parts he used in his build, or how to reach him, it is worth the $50 bucks or so just to get a new, safe, legal trigger group and have some degree of certainty what is in the gun.  JMHO, but in this case it is a small price to pay to remove any and all doubt.


Why in the world throw out the FCG?  Just get a disconnector spring, install it, and enjoy the rifle.

After looking at the pics the OP posted, there are no M16 parts in that FCG.  Maybe, the disconnector, but the FA tail has been cut off.  I say that because the rear of the disconnector looks a little uneven.  A Bushmaster of mine has a FCG that, from the factory, was modified from M16 to AR15 (the hammer and disconnector––the trigger is AR15).  It's really easy to tell that they were modified––the disconnector wasn't even refinished, heh.  I don't lose any sleep over it.
Link Posted: 10/24/2010 6:32:24 PM EDT
[#11]
Quoted:
Quoted:
A quick, safe, easy way to fix this would be to pull out the all the FCG components, throw them away, and replace it all with new.  I only mention this because there was a member of another forum who ended up doing a year in prison because his gun he bought used went FA and ended up having an M16 part in it.  If there is no way to tell what the guy did or what parts he used in his build, or how to reach him, it is worth the $50 bucks or so just to get a new, safe, legal trigger group and have some degree of certainty what is in the gun.  JMHO, but in this case it is a small price to pay to remove any and all doubt.


Why in the world throw out the FCG?  Just get a disconnector spring, install it, and enjoy the rifle.

After looking at the pics the OP posted, there are no M16 parts in that FCG.  Maybe, the disconnector, but the FA tail has been cut off.  I say that because the rear of the disconnector looks a little uneven.  A Bushmaster of mine has a FCG that, from the factory, was modified from M16 to AR15 (the hammer and disconnector––the trigger is AR15).  It's really easy to tell that they were modified––the disconnector wasn't even refinished, heh.  I don't lose any sleep over it.


Because, if he does not know what to look for, he is sure to get the proper parts by replacing all of them.   The history of the gun and how it was built has already been thrown into question.  If any of the FCG is from an M16 (which has been the case in several dubious builds including the one I mentioned from another forum), it is a small price to pay to avoid legal hassles.  At best,  he could dink around with it and have more parts break because the original owner used inferior parts or didn't know how to put it together.  At worst, he could run the risk of going to prison over an illegal machinegun like others have.  There is a good likelihood that the gun is fine and just missing a disconnect spring; there is also a possibility the idiot that built the gun used parts he shouldn't.  Installing all new parts solves all of those problems decisively and comes at a very low cost.
Link Posted: 10/24/2010 8:11:35 PM EDT
[#12]
Quoted:
I could be mistaken, but it appears your disconnector spring may be missing.


+1
Link Posted: 10/24/2010 8:26:20 PM EDT
[#13]
Link Posted: 10/24/2010 8:39:48 PM EDT
[#14]
Quoted:
replace the trigger and the hammer looks to me by the uneven wear on the hammer engagement area that someone polished the the area or stoned it to "smooth" the trigger out take a look at the pics again check them out


I thought the same.  It looks like the relief angle on a 1911 hammer stoning.  I thought it might be glare in the foto.
Link Posted: 10/24/2010 8:52:28 PM EDT
[#15]
Quoted:
Quoted:
replace the trigger and the hammer looks to me by the uneven wear on the hammer engagement area that someone polished the the area or stoned it to "smooth" the trigger out take a look at the pics again check them out


I thought the same.  It looks like the relief angle on a 1911 hammer stoning.  I thought it might be glare in the foto.


I noticed that too.  99% chance is that the missing disco spring is the culprit... but bad engagement surfaces cannot be good either.
Link Posted: 10/25/2010 6:57:57 AM EDT
[#16]
School me here.
The frankingun I put together is a Spike's lower with a Bushmaster upper. Bought from an FFL friend of mine, he and I both believe the lower was never assembled before I got it. I'm under the opinion that because the Spike's lower has the "bridge" in the reciever behind the FCG there is no way to make it FA. Is that so?
I have looked at diagrams and have dry fire function tested,and all springs are there, and look right. but am yet to run rounds through it.
My point is that even if Spike's or anyone else in the chain before I got the lower assembled parts incorrectly I  simply have a a mlfunction as opposed to a mag full of FA, correct?
I really like the idea of starting with a single round, and stepping up a round at a time. Thanks, Mike
Link Posted: 10/25/2010 12:03:04 PM EDT
[#17]



Quoted:


School me here.

The frankingun I put together is a Spike's lower with a Bushmaster upper. Bought from an FFL friend of mine, he and I both believe the lower was never assembled before I got it. I'm under the opinion that because the Spike's lower has the "bridge" in the reciever behind the FCG there is no way to make it FA. Is that so?

I have looked at diagrams and have dry fire function tested,and all springs are there, and look right. but am yet to run rounds through it.

My point is that even if Spike's or anyone else in the chain before I got the lower assembled parts incorrectly I  simply have a a mlfunction as opposed to a mag full of FA, correct?

I really like the idea of starting with a single round, and stepping up a round at a time. Thanks, Mike


You wont have a FA lower if you bought it from spikes and I seriously doubt it'll have any FA parts in it. All you need to do is a function check and if that checks out you'll be fine shooting it.



From the FAQs-

"

* THE FOLLOWING CHECKS ARE PERFORMED ON UNLOADED RIFLES *


























SAFE


Pull the charging handle to the rear and release. Place the selector
on SAFE. Pull the trigger, and the hammer should not fall.






SEMI


Place the selector on SEMI. Pull the trigger and hold to the rear.
The hammer should fall. Continue to hold the trigger to the rear, pull
the charging handle to the rear, and release it, Release the trigger
with a slow, smooth motion until the trigger is fully forward. The
hammer should not fall. Pull the trigger. The hammer should fall."









 
Link Posted: 10/25/2010 1:54:19 PM EDT
[#18]
Copy that. Those are the tests I did and all was well. Thanks.
Link Posted: 10/26/2010 2:42:08 AM EDT
[#19]
Quoted:
Quoted:
sorry, I figured with over 35K posts the dude should know what a sear spring is....


This is the kind of thing Larry Vickers was referring to. Misinformation.

OP, maybe for legal security, you should ask a mod or staff to delete this thread. I would, but I'm paranoid.


My thoughts exactly.
Link Posted: 10/26/2010 4:25:14 AM EDT
[#20]
Quoted:
I may be new here but if Stickman was posting a question for an answer it has to be for legit informational purposes.

I know on my build if Stickman asked me something I would not want to bullshit around with some snarky remark to him.  It would be in my best interest not to have the alphabet bubbas knocking on my front door with silver bracelets and a one way ticket to the cornhole motel.
Kind of a hijack sorry.

Now Mr. Stickman which part for this parts noob am I looking at?  Magwell side or tube side?


Buffertube side. See the U shaped piece of metal with the tab and the spring right above the selector switch? Don't ask me how it works, 'cause I don't know. I just know what it is.

Link Posted: 10/26/2010 7:11:08 AM EDT
[#21]
Quoted:Buffertube side. See the U shaped piece of metal with the tab and the spring right above the selector switch? Don't ask me how it works, 'cause I don't know. I just know what it is.


As the bolt returns to battery, the tail of the bolt trips the top of the sear, pressing down on the disconnector, releasing the hammer and firing the gun, assuming the trigger is still depressed. On the OP's gun, the disconnector spring was missing, allowing the hammer to follow, potentially firing OOB as mentioned before.
Link Posted: 10/26/2010 8:19:54 AM EDT
[#22]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
A quick, safe, easy way to fix this would be to pull out the all the FCG components, throw them away, and replace it all with new.  I only mention this because there was a member of another forum who ended up doing a year in prison because his gun he bought used went FA and ended up having an M16 part in it.  If there is no way to tell what the guy did or what parts he used in his build, or how to reach him, it is worth the $50 bucks or so just to get a new, safe, legal trigger group and have some degree of certainty what is in the gun.  JMHO, but in this case it is a small price to pay to remove any and all doubt.


Why in the world throw out the FCG?  Just get a disconnector spring, install it, and enjoy the rifle.

After looking at the pics the OP posted, there are no M16 parts in that FCG.  Maybe, the disconnector, but the FA tail has been cut off.  I say that because the rear of the disconnector looks a little uneven.  A Bushmaster of mine has a FCG that, from the factory, was modified from M16 to AR15 (the hammer and disconnector––the trigger is AR15).  It's really easy to tell that they were modified––the disconnector wasn't even refinished, heh.  I don't lose any sleep over it.


Because, if he does not know what to look for, he is sure to get the proper parts by replacing all of them.   The history of the gun and how it was built has already been thrown into question.  If any of the FCG is from an M16 (which has been the case in several dubious builds including the one I mentioned from another forum), it is a small price to pay to avoid legal hassles.  At best,  he could dink around with it and have more parts break because the original owner used inferior parts or didn't know how to put it together.  At worst, he could run the risk of going to prison over an illegal machinegun like others have.  There is a good likelihood that the gun is fine and just missing a disconnect spring; there is also a possibility the idiot that built the gun used parts he shouldn't.  Installing all new parts solves all of those problems decisively and comes at a very low cost.


Look at the pic the OP posted.  That is an AR-15 spec FCG minus a spring.  He'll be fine with a new spring.  You shouldn't tell a new guy to go and replace his entire FCG when all he needs is a disconnector spring.
Link Posted: 10/26/2010 8:27:51 AM EDT
[#23]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
The sear spring is looking a bit "off"

How so???


More correctly... WHAT sear spring ?





I'll never get an answer now.  My interest is in seeing what people think is the sear spring in a non-FA lower.







Link Posted: 10/26/2010 10:37:21 AM EDT
[#24]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
A quick, safe, easy way to fix this would be to pull out the all the FCG components, throw them away, and replace it all with new.  I only mention this because there was a member of another forum who ended up doing a year in prison because his gun he bought used went FA and ended up having an M16 part in it.  If there is no way to tell what the guy did or what parts he used in his build, or how to reach him, it is worth the $50 bucks or so just to get a new, safe, legal trigger group and have some degree of certainty what is in the gun.  JMHO, but in this case it is a small price to pay to remove any and all doubt.


Why in the world throw out the FCG?  Just get a disconnector spring, install it, and enjoy the rifle.

After looking at the pics the OP posted, there are no M16 parts in that FCG.  Maybe, the disconnector, but the FA tail has been cut off.  I say that because the rear of the disconnector looks a little uneven.  A Bushmaster of mine has a FCG that, from the factory, was modified from M16 to AR15 (the hammer and disconnector––the trigger is AR15).  It's really easy to tell that they were modified––the disconnector wasn't even refinished, heh.  I don't lose any sleep over it.


Because, if he does not know what to look for, he is sure to get the proper parts by replacing all of them.   The history of the gun and how it was built has already been thrown into question.  If any of the FCG is from an M16 (which has been the case in several dubious builds including the one I mentioned from another forum), it is a small price to pay to avoid legal hassles.  At best,  he could dink around with it and have more parts break because the original owner used inferior parts or didn't know how to put it together.  At worst, he could run the risk of going to prison over an illegal machinegun like others have.  There is a good likelihood that the gun is fine and just missing a disconnect spring; there is also a possibility the idiot that built the gun used parts he shouldn't.  Installing all new parts solves all of those problems decisively and comes at a very low cost.


Look at the pic the OP posted.  That is an AR-15 spec FCG minus a spring.  He'll be fine with a new spring.  You shouldn't tell a new guy to go and replace his entire FCG when all he needs is a disconnector spring.


But I did.  It is a viable, inexpensive solution.  I base that on not just the fact it went full auto, but the reliability of the parts as well for reasons already submitted.
Link Posted: 10/26/2010 10:51:25 AM EDT
[#25]
I would put a disco spring in and see what it does.
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