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Posted: 6/26/2010 8:45:19 AM EDT
There it is... Almost twenty years old, after installing new case pawl ejector, index rod, and index rod flipper.
Just finished a run of 100. Flawlessly. 
Taken down for tuning. 
Heavily TetraGreased 
Notice where the bevel is at end of index rod in relation to flipper. Bevel would face to the right as your sitting behind press. 
Installing shell plate carrier. 
When installing, flipper should rest firmly against this vein. If it doesn't, loosen bolt at bottom of ram and pull shell plate carrier clockwise until flipper snugs to cast vein. Then tighten bolt. For you Bulls out there who like to pillage chrystal shops. If you force the index rod you'll likely cause carrier to slip on ram. If this ever happens this step will have to be done to correct indexing. 
Close up of flipper to vein. White stuff is TetraGrease. Grease keeps flipper running smooth without hanging up. 
You must have this o-ring spacer, other wise you'll lock up shell pate. 
Photo shows proper angle on tail of case pawl ejector. 
Notice how case pawl tail fits in index hole on shell plate carrier. When the tail starts to wear and it will. Keep spares on hand. Indexing will short stroke and indexing will not align. 
Shell plate is sequenced to index rod. Handle is up at ram down position and indexing checked to run. 
At this point your press will be indexing if all steps are followed. |
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Nice set up 1911. how do you like the portable reloading bench? I thought about getting one for my pistol loads but wasnt sure of its sturdiness. Would you say it was sturdy enough for rifle loads too? 
Most definitely Dragon. Loading .308 and .223 from my easy chair on this stand. .223 is set up to load on 4 hole progressive turret and .308 is loaded single stage. All my sizing - depriming is done on single stage these days. Depending on what I feel like priming with it's done with Lee hand primer or single stage press. I really like using the press, especially seating rifle primers. Powder drop is Forster - Bonanza. Describing how I like it. It's the Lee Perfect Powder Measure on steroids. Works much the same as PPM and will throw .308 charges with any powder to within 2/10ths. My next toy is going to be RCBS Charge Master. Not because I dislike trickling up rifle. Because I do enjoy the process. I'm wanting something for precision pistol loads that meters to within a nat's ass consistently with powders like Accurate # 5. It's probably going to be mounted on Frankford stand too. Laugh all you want guys but I like my easy chair and TV when reloading in the comfort of my living room. I get tired or something is on that actually gets my attention on TV all I do is move stand to side and kick my feet up. Your absolutley right Gator. Lubricating is the key and lots of it. Dogsplat. It's really simple to make a Load Master run. Trash the priming system. If there was a Mrs. 1911smith to account to I'd be set up much like the rest of you. Benefits of Freedom. For you guys that are young, single, and on a budget. These stands and equipment are perfect to get you started. |
Here we are with ram fully extended. Notice location of index flipper.
Flipper follows vein and over the hump in place for press handle to push index rod back to index shell plate. DO NOT SHORT STROKE YOUR PRESS. If you do shell plate cannot advance without index rod being fully extended. If you find your self short stroked. No pun intended. You'll need to reset index rod and flipper to top or bottom and index shell plate manually to index rod. 
Function run. 
Indexing fine now. Time for dies. 
Set screw groove. 
Confirm your alignment. 
Run your set screw down. 
Install dies in turret per Lee directions. Looping powder drop chain through lever holes. 
Adjustment in tension is best made one link at time. Keep extra chains in stock. 
Tension shoud be just enough that spring begins to collapse. That's enough to ensure throw arm is completely down. 
make an index run to check and set powder metering. 
I check my charge by weighing and repeat until charge is dialed in. 
Now ready to install case slider. Notice excess grease. Case feed system can place a lot of drag on your stroke. Have never tried but I'm thinking spray silicant could work here too. To my way of thinking grease is better. Remember gun powder and grease gum up together. 
Install feed bracket with nut. Nut provided by Lee is too wide. Ace hardware stores carry a narrow jam nut. Wide nut doesn't allow enough threads into press frame and can strip out. More on this later. Thread feed bracket completely in but leave jam nut loose. Then attach crank slider to feed rod. Crank slider is the doohickey with to screws. You will need to take crank slider apart and install feed crank. (chrome thing) Screw together leaving slack and run it down feed rod. Now you attach case slider to feed crank and slip case feeder over carrier arm as shown and run feed rod into feed bracket. Picture shown below shows spacing needed between carrier case slider arm and feed rod. A liitle wider than width of pencil. 
Tighten feed bracket bolt to secure feed rod with proper spacing, then tighten jam nut to secure feed bracket. If any of this is out of alignment case slider will make ram stroke hard if not impossible. You should have smooth action when proper alignment is acheived. If it isn't smooth follow action by puling press handle to point action is difficult. STOP. LOOK, THINK, and make necessary adjustment. Force will not solve your problems here. If you use force you risk carrier slipping on ram. If that happens you pretty much start over from beginning. 
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Now your case feeding system is in place and moving smoothly with final adjustments. Now to time it. - Check out the width of jam nut on feeder rod bracket. Factory supplied nut is too wide and does not leave enough threads inside press casting. It happens too. Jam nut can be found at Ace Hardware store.
Crank slider requires enough tension to hold in place for feed crank to cam over, but loose enough to slide freely. In other words enough tension to hold it while feed crank cams. Tension is made with top screw only. Bottom should remain loose enough to allow free and easy movement of crank slider. 
This picture simply shows the feed crank making cam rotation. 
Adding tension to crank slider so it holds at bottom of feed crank's cam stroke. This is one of two adjustments necessary for how deep case slider pushes your case. 
Inserted case to cycle in index. Adjustment is made at both crank slider with change in tension and feed rod angle. Feed rod angle can be made by running some threads out on feed rod bracket which requires dissasembly of case feeder parts - or - bend feed rod. I do this using crescent wrench. If your case is pushing in too far bend feed rod back. Not enough bend it in, change tension on crank slider if necessary. 
This shows full reach of case slider. Have feed rod too far back, using crescent wrench I bend rod forward and try again. 
Think I have feed rod right. Case pushes all the way into shell plate. 
All the way in so I'll index it and try another. 
Dropped second case to check case - shell plate clearance. 
Case binds on shell plate so I tweak feed rod back just a hair. 
Another run. 
It clears. Adjustment to feed rod done. 
Feed enough cases to fill index. 
Everything smooth with no hang ups. 
Grease or some type of lubricant is key to smooth case feed. 
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Machine indexes and case feed runs smoothly.
Now ready for case tubes. Middle nut adjusts case tube height. Too short and cases will not drop. Too high and cases will tumble. 
Seems best alignment is snug against press casting. 
Tighten bottom nut 
Filled tube with 5 cases and made run. 
Case feeder is snug with cast to insure proper alignment to case slider. 
Load it up. Crank it out. Ammo time. 
Remanufacturing begins. 
Double checking full extension of ram. Index flipper location marks full stroke. 
Powder dropped, bullet seated, checking tension on spring with powder chain inserted through. 
First bullet off. Looks like FCD is set right. One slight ring mark on case. Not much needed for tmj bullets. Just enough to remove bell at case mouth. 
Round hits case paw ejector and drops freely into bin. 
This photo does a nice job of showing the spce needed between case slider and case tub feeder. Looks like the width of height adjustment nut. 
There you go. Press is tuned. 
One last shot of proper spacing needed above case slider. 
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I have mine for many years and it works great. I also have the bullet feeder. My wife and I shoot about 10,000 rounds a year and we produce match grade ammo. If you keep them clean, lubed, and level they will last for a long long time. A buddy of mine has loaded over 250,000 rounds on his and only replaced the sizing dies. That's IMHO.
Mike |
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Great post. My dad left me a load master and a bunch of accessories when he passed away (complete set ups for 45 ACP, 9MM, 38/357 and maybe a few more). I have only loaded with a single stage press, but after seeing your post, I want to get it cleaned up and start making some ammo. If I need any parts/accessories where is the best/cheapest place to order them from? Thanks! |
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Quoted:
Great post. My dad left me a load master and a bunch of accessories when he passed away (complete set ups for 45 ACP, 9MM, 38/357 and maybe a few more). I have only loaded with a single stage press, but after seeing your post, I want to get it cleaned up and start making some ammo. If I need any parts/accessories where is the best/cheapest place to order them from? Thanks! Lee replaces broken parts within 2 years of purchase for free and for 1/2 retail after the two years. Otherwise, check Midway, Grafs, and the other big reloading sites. |
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What all would I need to order to load .223 on the LoadMaster––-especially if I did all sizing trimming and priming with a single stage press and hand primer? I am especially questioning the powder measures that my dad had set up with the pistol calibers. Those just don't look like they will work for the 223. Is there a different compatible powder measure that works with the LoadMaster? And would I need to change anything else other than the shell plate and reloading die station? Thanks! |
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Midway is a good source for parts but they do not carry some key critical parts like index flipper. Both MidwayUSA and I have exchanged e-mails to why or why not. Long story short. I do business with them when I can and go direct manufacturer more often now. Lee Precision's phone number 262-673-3075. All warranty has to go through Lee anyway. Lee sent what parts I needed for this free of charge knowing this press is almost two decades old.
For .223 I'm using Lee Pro Auto-Disk Powder Measure with Lee Auto-Disk Powder Measure Double Disk Kit. Those combined get powder charges close enough for AR rounds. |
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What parts do you feel are essential to have spares of? Excluding primer parts. Case Pawl Ejector, Index Flipper, Powder Throw Lever Chain. White assembly grease is the best for keeping your press greased. I'm using TetraGrease in the photos because it's in my range bag. For tools you'll need both straight and curved phillips screw drivers and two 8" crescent wrenches. |
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I've heard the priming system on these is finicky. How do you keep it running smoothly? As stated previously. I trashed the priming system. Size, de-prime single stage and hand prime. As you'll notice in the pictures I've only installed 3 dies for powder drop, bullet seat, and factory crimp. Sizing, de-priming, priming with this press offers nothing but inconsistency in primer depth and OAL. The only way I've figured to achieve consistency is to trim brass to uniform height. Maybe we'll play with that in this post or maybe someone can offer some insight with photos. Claims without photos don't count. 
<eta> I much prefer my 4 hole turret press. It produces match grade ammunition with no regard to trim height. The Load Master is fun to have around for running blaster ammo. It's not my idea of a match grade machine. But then I'm extremely AR about round consistancy. |
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Quoted:
Lee replaces broken parts within 2 years of purchase for free and for 1/2 retail after the two years. Otherwise, check Midway, Grafs, and the other big reloading sites. Quoted:
Quoted:
Great post. My dad left me a load master and a bunch of accessories when he passed away (complete set ups for 45 ACP, 9MM, 38/357 and maybe a few more). I have only loaded with a single stage press, but after seeing your post, I want to get it cleaned up and start making some ammo. If I need any parts/accessories where is the best/cheapest place to order them from? Thanks! Lee replaces broken parts within 2 years of purchase for free and for 1/2 retail after the two years. Otherwise, check Midway, Grafs, and the other big reloading sites. TitanReloading.com If you have a LM older than about 2-3 years now, it will have the original priming slider (positive capture). There are no more sliders to be found. You could 3d print one, or resin cast one if you have a good master. Lee used to sell the slilder part for $1. Now you have to buy the complete primer chute with open ended slider for $18. Slider is not sold seperately. My open ended slider always fed 2 primers, so for 50 rounds I used 100 primers, the other 50 were in with the fired primers in the ram. :^( Great pics btw OP !! |
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Quoted:
What all would I need to order to load .223 on the LoadMaster––-especially if I did all sizing trimming and priming with a single stage press and hand primer? I am especially questioning the powder measures that my dad had set up with the pistol calibers. Those just don't look like they will work for the 223. Is there a different compatible powder measure that works with the LoadMaster? And would I need to change anything else other than the shell plate and reloading die station? Thanks! You need either the double-disk kit, or a PerfectPowder Measure and rifle powder die (case activated slider for measure). PPM will accurately measure between 2gr to 100gr. PPM will work for .380/9mm up to 30-06 or a bit longer. Double Disk will easily load 223, and up to about 45gr for 308 or thereabouts. ETA: geez, reading post date comprehension fail... zombie thread. |
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