I've loaded some .223 with 69gr Match Kings to spec with 25.5 gr of Varget for an AR.

This load is half a grain less than maximum.

Some have told me this load may be on the hot side. However according to the loading manual, it is still less than the hottest load for an AR with the Match King bullet.

Am I asking for a Ka-Boom?

If you are shooting a 5.56 or Wylde-chambered AR, no.

You should ALWAYS start off with at least 10%

If you are using BR4 primers in once-fired LC for use in a 5.56 chamber, you are probably fine.  But a hotter primer in a shorter-throated chamber and it might be too hot.

And if the brass is thin webbed...you might sacrafice a magazine.

work up your loads and then ye'll know

Ditto on workup the loads. I've not found where the max load produced the best accuracy or even the best consistency in .223 I've loaded.

Evan at a specified max of 26 grains, why would he have a problem?  Why would you have a problem?  It's specified SAAMI max load, still less than the max specified chamber pressure, and less than milspec pressures regardless.

Of course it's smart to work up, but why would any modern rifle have a problem with that load?

If you have new components or a rifle that shit the bed at that, you should dump either or both.

Anyway, your mileage will vary.  Yes, before everyone complains that velocity/hot loads suck over accurate loads, who cares?  That's why it's called "reloading", you can do both.

I'll happily stick a SAAMI max reload in a rifle, as long as it's MY reload.  

Well the SAAMI spec is based on a SAAMI spec chamber and test barrel, with likely commercial spec brass, under controlled temps.  There is a lot of different factors that all affect pressure:
ambient temp
chamber temp
powder lot characteristics
primer lot characteristics
bullet dimensions
brass dimensions
chamber dimensions
throat dimensions
rifling type
COL
Distance to lands

If tolerance stacking goes the wrong way, your published max might be too high.  That all said, it is pretty hard to get Varget to give you excessive pressures before it fully fills the case, at least with the heavier bullets.

No Truer Words Can Be Repeated!  

Quoted: work up your loads and then ye'll know

Quoted: Quoted: Evan at a specified max of 26 grains, why would he have a problem?  Why would you have a problem?  It's specified SAAMI max load, still less than the max specified chamber pressure, and less than milspec pressures regardless. Of course it's smart to work up, but why would any modern rifle have a problem with that load? If you have new components or a rifle that shit the bed at that, you should dump either or both. Anyway, your mileage will vary.  Yes, before everyone complains that velocity/hot loads suck over accurate loads, who cares?  That's why it's called "reloading", you can do both. I'll happily stick a SAAMI max reload in a rifle, as long as it's MY reload.   The point is to prevent a rifle from shitting the bed, not take care of the problem afterwards.  That's not hard to understand. They're still mechanical devices.  All of them wear out, and some of them break as a result of wear or an occasional defective part or assembly that slips through. Using start loads at the top of the published ranges is careless behavior.  Your advice is careless.  But, everyone is free to decide for themselves how they will operate as long as they also understand the risk and accept the responsibility for the consequences when things don't work out. Your risk tolerance is probably too high for most people and I'll say right out that it's too high for new reloaders.

I don't believe I said start with the max load.  I just don't understand the fear of a "max load".  Has there ever been a ka-boom posted here that  involved this type of failure?  "Look, Speer's listed max load blew up my rifle!" has not happened, as far as I recall.

Shooting mil-spec rounds should be approached with fear then, as those are above SAAMI max.  Black Hills, Silver State and other "hot" rounds should be avoided also.

Anyway, thanks.

I have been reloading for over 20 years. In my earlier years the word was reloading manual's max loads were on the conservative side so no one would use a max listed load and blow thier gun up and then try to sue. Then we discovered chronograph's. Which IMO is the single most important piece of reloading equipment you can purchase. You now can clock your loads and make a correlation of velocity and it's corosponding chamber pressure. Using this you can then determine the max safe load in your gun. When you reach max velocity you are at max pressure. My mil spec load for my AR is slightly slower than real M855 according to my reloading software and chrono data I'm at a safe chamber pressure. Fire that same load in my Model 70. And bad thing's may occur. In short invest in good software buy a chronograph. Learn to use both. And then you won't have to trust the internet to figure out when your gun is going to blow up in your face.

This doesn't always work,, for instance.
Loading a heavy bullet with a slow powder vs a fast powder,, chamber pressure with a fast powder is much higher than a slow powder that is still creating pressure while burning doew the Bbl with the same vel, or higher. The same thing can be applied to a faster powder also,, just look in some of the manuals that list pressures, you'll find that the vel doesn't equal pressure.
A chronograph in not an item to depend on for chamber pressure.
'Borg

Why do some people HAVE to go right to the edge of MAX?

Because, when working up a load, sometimes that is where the accuracy node is, but not always.
'Borg

Quoted: Why do some people HAVE to go right to the edge of MAX?

Because it's my choice?

Again, all things being equal (good components, non-shitty AR) why would you NOT be safe using a max-published load from a component maker who has tested these five ways from Sunday to avoid a lawsuit?

I will try to make this simple, though perhaps I am not smart enough to do so:

There should be nothing unsafe about using a published max load.

Quoted: I've loaded some .223 with 69gr Match Kings to spec with 25.5 gr of Varget for an AR. This load is half a grain less than maximum. Some have told me this load may be on the hot side. However according to the loading manual, it is still less than the hottest load for an AR with the Match King bullet. Am I asking for a Ka-Boom?

You SHOULD be okay.  However, it is always prudent to work up a load slowly.  I load 26 gr varget, 69 HPBT match, CCI #41 primer, Rem case.  No sign of high pressure out of my RRA 16" middy.

Varget is pretty forgiving and I have yet to be able to get a max load in a case without some serious compression of the powder. FWIW I get more accuracy at lower levels with Varget. May just be my rifle.

Quoted: This doesn't always work,, for instance. Loading a heavy bullet with a slow powder vs a fast powder,, chamber pressure with a fast powder is much higher than a slow powder that is still creating pressure while burning doew the Bbl with the same vel, or higher. The same thing can be applied to a faster powder also,, just look in some of the manuals that list pressures, you'll find that the vel doesn't equal pressure. A chronograph in not an item to depend on for chamber pressure. 'Borg

Beat's asking on the internet by a whole bunch though. Don't ya think? And yes with today's software most of the guess work is taken out of the equation.

Quoted: I've loaded some .223 with 69gr Match Kings to spec with 25.5 gr of Varget for an AR. This load is half a grain less than maximum. Some have told me this load may be on the hot side. However according to the loading manual, it is still less than the hottest load for an AR with the Match King bullet. Am I asking for a Ka-Boom?

My favorite load with 69gr SMK is 25.5gr of varget in win brass fired by a Federal match primer.  I shoot about 500 above sea level and have used this in all seasons in all of my AR's.  They all have 5.56 chambers.  I did work up to this load of course.  If you have worked up to this load and your brass does not show any pressure signs you are fine.  Looking at the brass is not the most reliable way to see your using to much, but it does work if you know what to look for.  I have never personally seen a rifle blow up from a reloading mistake.  Most of the kabooms I read about have been from squibs rather than too much powder or using the wrong powder.  When I load 25.5grs into win brass, it's a compressed load.  You would really be jamming down that powder to blow up a gun.  I'm not sure that it's physically possible to do.  I don't want to find out either.  Be sure your crimping your rounds.  I started out not crimping with a load that was not compressed and everything was fine.  Later on down the line when I started to compress the powder, it was pushing out the bullet just a little bit overnight.  I caught it before I fired them, but I'm not sure what it would have caused or even if I could get them into the mag.  

Like others have said, work up to that load.  You should be fine, but that's the safest way.  Use common sense and good judgment and you and everybody around you will be fine.  I have gone kinda hot with one of my bolt gun's and you will be able to tell when you are approaching the limit if you pay attention to your gun and brass.  

Have fun and stay safe.  

Quoted: I've loaded some .223 with 69gr Match Kings to spec with 25.5 gr of Varget for an AR. This load is half a grain less than maximum. Some have told me this load may be on the hot side. However according to the loading manual, it is still less than the hottest load for an AR with the Match King bullet. Am I asking for a Ka-Boom?

Another thing to keep in mind is which brass you are using.  Those published max loads are for commercial cases.  Military cases (LC, etc) have lower case volumes than commercial cases, and will result in higher pressures for the same given powder charge.

I think that use of the term "Ka-Boom" is very misleading.  It would be extremely unlikely that your AR would "Ka-Boom" (have a catastrophic failure) with the load you mentioned if your components and other considerations are in line.  These rifles have been tested with proof loads that are much higher without failure.  But you can't run a steady diet of loads that go from over "practical maximum" to the proof load range without problems ensuing later.  

What normally happens with a warm load is that it shortens brass and rifle parts life with the extra pounding.  Primer pockets will loosen quickly, and you risk stress fractures and other issues with your rifle parts

This load may end up to be just fine for pressure in your rifle for all the thousands of rounds it takes to burn out a couple of barrels.  But you need to work up to it so you can get a feel for what is going on.

The use of a chronograph, like YoteSlayer69 suggests, will be the best aid you have in figuring out pressure.  If you chronograph Black Hills ammo using the same 69 MK bullet and then chrono your work-ups and stop at the velocity Black Hills gave you in your gun, you will be absolutely SAAMI pressure-safe.  If chronographing factory ammo is not something you can do - look at book velocity very thoroughly, including barrel lengths used, and do not exceed that velocity.  

Handloading lore is full of high-pressure "signs," such as hard bolt lifts, flattened primers, bolt-face marks on the case head etc. With a chronograph you shouldn't ignore those signs, but you can generally avoid them. A chronograph will tell you when you're approaching the practical maximum velocity for a certain bullet and powder combination. If you stop there, you'll normally avoid ruining any brass or stressing your fine firearm.
And you may find that 25.5 grains of Varget with the 69 MK is just fine, just like Gibme has found out - but you will have something concrete to base it all on.

"Muzzle velocity for a selected load is a function of the mean effective pressure and the barrel length." - Lloyd E. Brownell, Ph.D. - Firearms Pressure Factors, Wolfe Publishing Co.

Again, Vel doesn't always equal presure.
'Borg

Safer than XM193 or MK262.

I know it is not the same bullet, but I have 69gr hpbt loaded with 26 grains varget 2.260 COAL... Good round, no pressure problems..

All I can go by are what people much smarter than me in the reloading field say.  There are whole articles detailing the experiment results, especially in Handloader magazine past issues, but here are a few quotes that lead me to believe that velocity and pressure are VERY interrelated - with barrel length factored in.  One assumes the use of powder of the proper burning range and application and very similar bullets to those that the velocity figures are checked against, of course.





[An extensive review and test of pressure divining methods associated with handloading conducted in conjunction with custom rifle builder Charlie Sisk, and using strain gauge machine for final checking, brought this conclusion:]  









As an aside - John Barsness has proved to be one of the more astute gun writers of our time.  Rather than just parroting handloading "truths" or "common wisdom", he has conducted numerous experiments, and talked to many industry insiders to see if they are really true, or are true today as compared to when first touted in the first half of the century or so.  Doing so, he has exploded several long-held "truths" as myths, and has made a real contribution to our knowledge.  Sadly, he and Wolfe Publishing went their separate ways this summer, so we will have to look elsewhere for his byline and literate writing style.  He can also be found skulking around 24hourcampfire.com "Ask The Gunwriters" forum

You are correct.  There is no direct correlation between say: "3100 fps from load X = 60,000 PSI".
Neither is there a direct correlation between "ejector mark on brass (or flattened primer e.g.) from load X = 68,000 PSI" with our older pressure reading methods.
And the problem with traditional pressure signs is that they occur AFTER excessive pressure has been reached, either once or over several loadings.

And I will add that YOU REALLY DON'T NEED TO HAVE AN EXACT FPS = PSI CORRELATION when you use the chronograph method intelligently!  Here's why, using the .223/Varget/69 MK example:

1) You KNOW that factory Black Hills ammo is held to strict SAAMI pressure specs.

2) You KNOW, by chronographing, that said Black Hills factory ammo loaded with the 69 SMK will give you a 10-shot average of 2784 fps with a SD of 14 from your 20" barrel AR15.  (You also know that the factory specs it at 2850 fps from an undisclosed barrel length - 20"? 24"?)  You also know that it is engineered to be safe in virtually ALL .223 good-condition rifles.

4) Your research shows you that Varget is one of the optimum burn rate powders for the 68-69 grain bullet in the .223 Rem.  
You are not using faster stuff like IMR 4198 that reaches peak SAAMI pressures and lesser velocities (2700 fps) quicker than Varget - this by looking at the reloading manual (Sierra data).  Nor is it so slow burning that you can't get enough in the case to reach full velocity like IMR 4064 (2600 fps) e.g.

5) Your research indicates that in a 20" AR15 that:
A. Sierra SAAMI pressure-tested max data indicates that 26.1 grains gives 2850 fps.

B. Hornady SAAMI pressure-tested max data indicates that 24.9 grains gives 2800 fps.

C. Hodgdon SAAMI pressure-tested max data indicates that 26.0 grains gives 3010 fps with no barrel length specified (24" Universal fixture assumed) so velocity data is not very helpful, but charge weight is.

So thus armed with knowledge you conclude that:
SAAMI pressure-spec ammo using the same bullet gives 2784 fps in YOUR rifle.
If 2850 fps is exceeded, you most likely are in overpressure territory - even if no other traditional pressure signs are in evidence at this time.

Reloading data indicates that FROM a 20" barrel AR that you can expect 2784-2850 fps with the 69 SMK as a practical maximum velocity.  Differences between sources would be indicative of the differences in components (brass, primers etc.) used.  You decide, based on chronographing the factory ammo in YOUR gun that you will stop at 2800 fps (Sierra data + actual factory ammo chronograph data) because you believe that velocity is the by-product of pressure and that you can use your chronographed velocity as AID OR ADJUTANT TO OTHER ESTABLISHED PRESSURE SIGNS and that it can often be your FIRST warning sign and thus a safer method that working up until overpressure is actually reached, then backing off.

Maximum charge weights from 3 reliable sources give basically 25.0 grains as maximum for one and 26.0 maximum for two sources.
You decide to carefully work up to 26.0 grains of Varget behind the 69 SMK and load a test series thus (using 5 to 10 rounds per charge weight).

While chronographing your test/work-up loads you keep an eye on:

Velocity – 100 fps or in many cases even 50 fps faster than it should be, as per reliable sources, for the load/bullet weight/barrel length indicates excessive pressure.
[Handloader, June 2004, “More Pressure Experiments”, John Barsness]

My yardstick for pressure is a combination of chronograph readings and primer pockets... The speed readings are easy: don’t expect to get much more or much less than what you see published, and pay close attention to the rifle barrel specs the data came from... [GUNS Magazine, May 2010, “Reloading Puzzles & pieces thereof”, Glen Zediker]

Ejector Marks – A shiny mark on the back of the case head indicates that enough pressure was present to flow the metal of the head into the ejector recess of the bolt face.  If these marks appear only on the new cases, and if older cases using the same load show no ejector marks, it is possible that new cases are from a production lot that was annealed to a softer condition.  In either case, ejector marks are a definite sign of pressure and the load should be reduced accordingly.

Loose Primer Pockets – This condition is detected by the new primers seating too easily.  Cases with loose primer pockets have usually been exposed to hot loads and need to be discarded.  Continued use may result in gas leakage around the primers.

Gas Leakage Around the Primer – This is indicated by a black, sooty appearance around the primer and is a sign that the primer seats loosely in the primer pocket.  Discard these cases and reduce the load to a lighter charge.

Flattened Primer – Where this condition is accompanied by other signs, it is due to excessive chamber pressure.  However, flattened primers can also be an indication that the resizing die was improperly adjusted and has changed the shoulder position of the case.  This causes excessive headspace and allows case stretching.  The flattening is a result of the case moving forward slightly upon impact from the firing pin.  Ignition shoves the primer firmly against the bolt face, and when the pressure from powder ignition reaches its peak, the case head stretches until it contacts the bolt face, telescoping the primer and giving it a flattened appearance.

Heavily Cratered or Extruded Primers – This condition should not be confused with the light cratering that can occur from a poorly fitted or badly worn firing pin.  Look to the history of your rifle for correct analysis of this symptom.  However, if other pressure indications are present, significant cratering should be regarded as a sign of excessive pressure.

However - please remember John Barsness' pressure testing experiment results at Western Powder wherein he was forced to conclude: "The worst thing you can count on is primer appearance. How much primers flatten, or how much the metal "cups" around the firing pin indent, will vary considerably for reasons that don't have anything to do with pressure."
Or what Match AR15 guru Glen Zediker says: "Pressure symptoms don't seem to show as easily in .223 Remington as they may in other cartridges.  Spent primer condition clues especially."  GUNS Magazine, May 2010, “Reloading Puzzles & pieces thereof”.

Action Opens With Difficulty or Will Not Open – This is a definite sign of excessive pressure.  If the bolt or lever offers resistance to opening or will not extract the case without forcing, it is an indication that the case was jammed tightly against the chamber wall from too much pressure.

Short Case Life – While this symptom can be caused by other factors such as chamber dimensions, excessive headspace or faulty resizing techniques, repeated heavy pressures will shorten case life.
[Pressure signs as per Nosler Reloading Guide #5 pg. 40]

FINALLY you shoot your test/work-up load series until something around 2784 to 2800 feet per second is reached and then you QUIT! - reasonably secure in the knowledge that you are running less than 55,000 PSI with your component mix in your rifle, knowledge backed by your research of the above mentioned data sources (even if you don't know the EXACT pressure of the load).

IF any of the above mentioned traditional signs of over-pressure are reached before you hit 2800 fps, then you QUIT and BACK-OFF!

HOWEVER, using the chronograph intelligently during the process, it is likely that, with most guns, you will NEVER experience any of the traditional pressure signs.

Like certified "rifle looney" Johnny B says: "A chronograph will tell you when you're APPROACHING the practical maximum velocity for a certain bullet and powder combination. If you stop there, you'll normally avoid ruining any brass or stressing your fine firearm..."
The chronograph, coupled with intelligent research on your part and used in tandem with the traditional pressure signs, is a powerful tool in keeping loads safe, usually before you would know you are in trouble with any other single method.

Does this all make sense?

I totally agree that checking the velocity of M193, M855, or M262 would be, or is, a real plus in a particular rifle - especially for use as a top-end, do not exceed benchmark.
In the instance I illustrated, the use of Black Hills ammunition was made because they use the bullet that FL_flyfishing_guide was asking about + I have personally chronographed it in my 20" AR15 so that 2784 fps figure wasn't just pulled out of thin air.

LC 05 M855 goes 3083 fps in my 20" Wylde chamber AR15 (which is very close to specified velocity), so I have a benchmark for that ammo in my gun that can be helpful in future load development as you mentioned.  Sometimes getting some good mil-spec ammo of the various types (especially M262) for this use is a challenge, but well worth the effort IMO.  Also chronographing in different barrel lengths can be illuminating.

I think anything that gives a handloader a better picture of what their load is doing without leaving the safety zone is good.    

I have found 25.5 behind a hdy 55grfmj 205 pri in win brass is a juicy round imo ..I don't think I would run a 69gr bullet past 24gr .... if you are using A Dillon 550....because of the variance from round to round.....

Quoted: I have found 25.5 behind a hdy 55grfmj 205 pri in win brass is a juicy round imo ..I don't think I would run a 69gr bullet past 24gr .... if you are using A Dillon 550....because of the variance from round to round.....

And I take shit for my posts.

If you are using a modern, name-brand, non-forged in pig-shit in the hills weapon, how can you be terrified of using a load from a name-brand, verified, tested and vetted source?

I AM NOT ADVOCATING THAT YOU STUFF YOUR CASE TO THE MAX AND SHOOT

I AM NOT ADVOCATING THAT YOU STUFF YOUR CASE TO THE MAX AND SHOOT

I AM NOT ADVOCATING THAT YOU STUFF YOUR CASE TO THE MAX AND SHOOT

I am trying to say, one more time, and then I give up, that using the published max data, from your preferred source, is SAFE in a non-POS AR-15 rifle using modern components.  

My rifles are off-the-shelf to-standard modern production weapons that, unless something is wrong, SHOULD be perfectly safe using CURRENT TESTED MAX LOAD DATA for SAAMI SPEC loads, IF THAT IS WHAT YOU CHOOSE TO DO.  

If you have a nice nose-to-charging-handle stance and are shooting mil-spec ammo, PEE PANTS, as you may be over SAAMI max.

I can't make this any simpler.

ETA:  Thanks FriscoPete.

Quoted: Quoted: I totally agree that checking the velocity of M193, M855, or M262 would be, or is, a real plus in a particular rifle - especially for use as a top-end, do not exceed benchmark. In the instance I illustrated, the use of Black Hills ammunition was made because they use the bullet that FL_flyfishing_guide was asking about + I have personally chronographed it in my 20" AR15 so that 2784 fps figure wasn't just pulled out of thin air. LC 05 M855 goes 3083 fps in my 20" Wylde chamber AR15 (which is very close to specified velocity), so I have a benchmark for that ammo in my gun that can be helpful in future load development as you mentioned.  Sometimes getting some good mil-spec ammo of the various types (especially M262) for this use is a challenge, but well worth the effort IMO.  Also chronographing in different barrel lengths can be illuminating. I think anything that gives a handloader a better picture of what their load is doing without leaving the safety zone is good.     The reason I advocate for using M193, M855, or M262 is because we have reasonable assurance about the average pressure levels from the quality control specs for these these cartridges. www.ar15.com/content/page.html?id=434

None of the max loads published anywhere even approach those listed at the link, at first glance.  I'm tired, and seeing double thanks to wonderful prescription narcotics.

AeroE, nobody here questions you.  When you speak, it might as well be carved in stone.

I just disagree.  In-spec gun plus in-spec ammo = safe.

All I can go by are what people much smarter than me in the reloading field say. There are whole articles detailing the experiment results, especially in Handloader magazine past issues, but here are a few quotes that lead me to believe that velocity and pressure are VERY interrelated - with barrel length factored in. One assumes the use of powder of the proper burning range and application and very similar bullets to those that the velocity figures are checked against, of course.

Current chronograph offerings are cheap enough, provided you do not end up shooting them.  I have discovered things I would have not otherwise discovered about some of my Varget / .223 (almost M193) work ups.  For instance, and it is not unusual, the vel. consistency (minumum spread) occured before the published max. press. load.  Consistent velocity usually contributes to maximum accuracy at the target, unless your limp barrel is flailing all over the place.

Considering the usefulness of the information, I would not hesitate to buy another chrony when I shoot mine.    Also, a chrony range only needs to be 15 feet long.  You can do it in your garage, or on your pool deck, with a sand bucket backstop.  

Hey I dont like to be hard on my brass.... high pressure loads are not brass frendly.....

Quoted: Hey I dont like to be hard on my brass.... high pressure loads are not brass frendly.....

And that's a good reason not to load to max; resizing is easier and you only give up a hundred feet per second or so.

That and companies like Nosler post max loads for their bullets and flag the most accurate combo in their load data too. YMMV of course, but Varget tends to be the most accurate at a fair amount below maximum charge according to that data.

Quoted: Quoted: ... I just disagree.  In-spec gun plus in-spec ammo = safe. I gave up trying to figure out what you're arguing about. No one had better set anything I write in stone.  For starters, what I write is usually intentionally not the whole story with a bias to the conservative side due to the enormous number of new reloaders here.  Plus, I think everyone should do the work themselves without relying too heavily on what they find on the internet; there's no other way to get first hand experience. At the end of the day, I'm all about personal responsibility and I truly don't care what other people load in their guns for their own use as long as they don't expose other people to dangerous loads.

I'll try one more time because I respect your opinion, and then I will also give up.

don't expose other people to dangerous loads.

My point:  How is a published, tested max load dangerous in a good firearm?  That's it.

Quoted: Hey I dont like to be hard on my brass.... high pressure loads are not brass frendly.....

Which is why they go in the scrap bucket, not left behind for someone else.

Man, I give up on this.

Good stuff here.  But please remember HOW the pressure-tested data was obtained.  The chamber has a GREAT DEAL of influence.  And even with Varget.

Anyone who has experimented with seating length with non-magazine length ammunition (80+ grain bullets, VLDs and the like) over a chronograph has seen this.
These bullets and the variety of chambers assures the reloader that they are outside of published data and into the world of the wildcatter.

I know 25 grains and a naked Sierra 90 with  BR4 primer IS a danger hot load.  But in a moly seasoned barrel (10-20 rounds) and a dry moly coated bullet (no wax), it is safe for at least 5 reloadings.  That is my test of pressure.  If a load opens up the primer pocket after 5 loadings, it is too hot.  Here, a portable press and a hand priming tool with pre-weighed charges is perfect.

Here's what happens when I load 25.5 grains of Varget with a 69 SMK, CCI BR4, LC brass, and then backup 148 yards:

[IMG]http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q304/mccullm6/noveskerangereport004.jpg[/IMG]

My Noveske 16.1" loves this load.

I've shot quite a few 69 grainers and Varget.

Before I commit to KABoom or no KABoom I need to see a cartridge over all length.

That is a pet load of mine.
25.5 Varget
69gr Sierra MK
Fed 205M primer

I don't think it is possible to blow yourself up if you use Varget and a good piece of brass...





I don't believe you can physically get enough powder in the case to harm yourself.

Could be.  Varget has not been all that consistent in lot to lot tests.  

Varget can be unpredictable with Federal primers as these have a different ignition profile.  While BR4s have generally great consistency with Varget, they also produce the lowest velocity.

I have cratered CCI 400s with 25 grains of a 2001 lot of Varget and the 69 Sierras in a 1:7" Colt barrel.  That is getting close to the 53,000 PSI range...now with BR4s, no cratering but that is a thicker cup.

That's 1/2 grain over maximum in two of my reloading manuals. I use 24.5 grains with 69 Sierra's with excellent accuracy. I still have all my fingers, both eyes and half a mind.

pics of the ka-boom?

     


Enough already.....