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Posted: 7/4/2008 9:19:33 PM EDT
[#1]
I assume you aren't trying to use the bullets for a "performance" application. Since you said 200 gr. SWC, I'm assuming it's for target work.
IF so, I wouldn't worry about them. Just cast as usual. Aloha, Mark |
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Posted: 7/4/2008 9:31:53 PM EDT
[#2]
Yes, casting for target loads, 750 to 800 fps.
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Posted: 7/5/2008 3:17:32 AM EDT
[#3]
Not all wheel weights are created equal. Some have a zinc (IIRC) alloy.
Eddie |
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Posted: 7/5/2008 4:25:08 AM EDT
[#4]
Any hints on how to spot the zinc ones?
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Posted: 7/5/2008 4:38:46 AM EDT
[#5]
dont worrie about it add a little tin and some linotype take a test sample let it cool test the BNH i go for around 26 -28 thats great stuff for 750-950 fps
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Posted: 7/5/2008 4:46:44 AM EDT
[#6]
The tape weights is close to pure soft lead, spread it out over your ingot making so you dont have ingots with high soft lead content. I suppose if you wanted, you could put all the tape weight aside, and ingot them alone, and then trade them, that is what I am currently doing. As to the zinc, you likely not find them, as they is currently reserved to the $$$ cars, but they will typically have a "Zn" cast on them, and not look like regular clip-on weight. Run your pot hot enough to melt wheel weights, and non-lead and steel clips will float.        |
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Posted: 7/5/2008 5:50:42 AM EDT
[#7]
Fortunately, zinc melts at a significantly higher temperature than lead/tin/antimoney alloys. just don't walk away while you're smelting. When the majority of the weights turn liquid, give a quick stir and skim off the unmelted zinc weights along with the clips. Then flux and pour ingots as normal. I respectfully disagree with SBR7_11. Zinc weights are becoming much more common. I've found several here in the Philly suburbs. Mostly stick on types. |
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Posted: 7/5/2008 6:42:40 AM EDT
[#8]
 
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Posted: 7/5/2008 6:46:02 AM EDT
[#9]
1. every time you post those pics I feel inadequate....   2. what are the cases in the pic of the reloads.? Don't look to be brass. |
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Posted: 7/5/2008 7:37:39 AM EDT
[#10]
WOLF 45acp  |
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Posted: 7/5/2008 4:24:17 PM EDT
[#11]
Thanks for the help guys.
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Posted: 7/5/2008 7:14:51 PM EDT
[#12]
Welll, the first green drum (with CASTROL sticker showing) is officially empty late this afternoon, it is now muffins in the drum closest to the door opening.
This was done over several sittings of about 2hr each. |
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Posted: 7/6/2008 4:53:10 AM EDT
[#13]
Damn, I gotta get a magnet.... What's with the Sharpie marks on the heads...?Sorry for the hijack OP... 
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Posted: 7/6/2008 5:38:16 AM EDT
[#14]
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Posted: 7/6/2008 7:55:40 AM EDT
[#15]
I've run into very few zinc weights but I have encountered them.
I keep the rendering temp about 650-660 and the zinc will float to the top. It's slower that way but I'm paranoid about running accross zinc alloys that would have a lower melting temp. I may be worrying about nothing there.. |
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Posted: 7/6/2008 11:41:10 AM EDT
[#16]
Not much can be economically added to make the zinc melt at lower temperature. So keep the initial melt at a low temp and you are fine. Some of the newer lead weights have a thick paint, almost like a powder coat. But they are the same underneath the paint. The smoke sucks... |
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Posted: 7/6/2008 3:24:25 PM EDT
[#17]
I think you need to check your bnh tester- linotype on its own might go 18-19bnh without heat treating. adding lino and tin isn't going to get the mix to 26-28. Besides, 26-28 bnh is way overkill for target loads under 1000 fps. i shoot 11-12 bnh blends of ww and pure in 44mag, 45 and 9mm. 9mm is over 1000fps no leading. fit to the bore is more important by far than bnh. good link fore anyone looking to learn about casting is here: LASC Cast Bullet ref |
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Posted: 7/6/2008 3:32:54 PM EDT
[#18]
SBR7_11 has those barrels of lead, they are famous.
His pics always bring out the worst lead ho posting in me though, I'm trying to catch him but i don't think it is possible:   
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Posted: 7/6/2008 3:56:25 PM EDT
[#19]
I just did about 16lb of tape weight about an hr ago, thought the fellas was here paving the street from the smell of it and the thick black smoke of tape burning. |
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Posted: 7/6/2008 4:13:54 PM EDT
[#20]
Great link, thanks cohutt. |
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Posted: 7/6/2008 5:29:11 PM EDT
[#21]
You've never seen smoke until you've smelted roof flashing complete with tar and shingle pieces that can't be removed any other way. This pile is mostly a bathub basin but there is one piece of roof flashing where you can see the tar. Waiting for a windy day to smelt it. 
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Posted: 8/3/2008 12:47:38 AM EDT
[#22]
This is what I think the wheel weights with Zinc look like.
Lower left, normal wheel weights Upper left, coating on top of normal wheel weights, GTG Center, Zinc  , they have a riveted on look
Right, Zinc that I thought I had sorted out, but found their way into the pot. Using low heat that just melts the lead, these float to the top. Just like I was told in a post. 
6 gang Lee mold, some ingots, and finished bullets. 200 gr SWC, 45 Cal, sizing to .452, using Lyman orange high temp lube. Thanks for all the help guys. Have to lube, and load them up now. |
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Posted: 8/4/2008 10:24:12 PM EDT
[#23]
dryflash...
Thanks for the pics and the informative thread. I recently started collecting wheel weights so that I can get into casting soon and this thread helped me out a bunch! Can I ask what the blue bullets in the bin were? Was that a moly coating or something??  Do you got any tips or preferences for cleaning the weights before casting? (All the wheel weight I have collected so far are nasty...) Thanks for the thread dryflash. |
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Posted: 8/4/2008 11:45:25 PM EDT
[#24]
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Posted: 8/5/2008 8:45:47 PM EDT
[#25]
Where did you get that melting pot? Or did you make it? I have quite a bit of lead to melt into ingots and this campfire method is gettting old. |
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Posted: 8/5/2008 10:29:07 PM EDT
[#26]
Get a propane burner, like what is used to fry turkeys.
Mine is a two burner camping stove type model. Yard sale. Run it off a 5 gal propane tank. Melt lead in a large cast iron pot. Thrift store for the pot and scoops. Use a metal slotted spoon to remove the clips, metal soup scoop to pour molten lead into ingot mold. Lee, Lyman, RCBS all sell the ingot molds. |
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Posted: 8/5/2008 10:51:36 PM EDT
[#27]
Quoted:
Where did you get that melting pot? Or did you make it? I have quite a bit of lead to melt into ingots and this campfire method is gettting old. The pot itself seen sitting on the burner actually is the bottom off a 30lb R-134 cylinder. I just took and cut around the weld seam and slid the upper and lower apart, deburr as needed. I use 2 pair of vise grip to grab the pot and pour. Dont forget to form a "V" on the edge to use a s pour spout. I almost had the huge bottle off our old R-134 recovery machine, but it somehow got away and ended up going out with the scrap monkeys that come around and buy our junk. |
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Posted: 8/5/2008 11:26:13 PM EDT
[#28]
And the burner is just a turkey fryer?
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Posted: 8/14/2008 12:32:13 AM EDT
[#29]
OK here gos 150lb pot
98lbs wheel weights 40lbs lineotype 4lbs Tin |
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Posted: 8/14/2008 6:40:14 AM EDT
[#30]
What are you going to cast for that you're being so wasteful of the lino and tin? That stuff is expensive. |
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Posted: 8/14/2008 2:57:38 PM EDT
[#31]
yeah but it dont lead my barrel or gas ports like that ...
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Posted: 11/6/2008 4:26:44 PM EDT
[#32]
Okay - newb to the whole casting thing, but I had a tireshop give me several buckets
worth of weights. Propane burner for heat Cast iron pot for melting How do you know the proper temp? I see some use muffin tins for casting - do you just pour in and let cool, or do you have to coat the cups w/ something for the ingots to come loose? Link for info on linotype use, tin, etc.? |
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Posted: 11/6/2008 4:57:59 PM EDT
[#33]
Quoted:
Any hints on how to spot the zinc ones? They FLOAT on molten lead. Just don't get the lead temperature too high as they will eventually melt, ruining the alloy. The adhesixe WWs are nearly pure lead. They don't need strength as they are forced onto the rim from centripetal acceleration. Don't worry about the smoke, it will keep you from breathing lead fumes! It might also have urethane which releases cyanide fumes. Another reason to do this OUTSIDE. Igniting the smoke will destroy the HCN. |
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Posted: 11/6/2008 5:06:32 PM EDT
[#34]
Quoted:
Okay - newb to the whole casting thing, but I had a tireshop give me several buckets worth of weights. Propane burner for heat Cast iron pot for melting How do you know the proper temp? I see some use muffin tins for casting - do you just pour in and let cool, or do you have to coat the cups w/ something for the ingots to come loose? Link for info on linotype use, tin, etc.? The lead will melt at one temp. Do NOT heat on high after it all melts. Begin skimming once only clips are floating. Flux with bacon grease, smells better, works fine. I have a stirring stick that is made from fat wood, pitchy pine. Just stir until it mokes, then remove. It will BURN. Muffin tins made of aluminum will not stick. But muffin tins made of tinned steel WILL STICK. Do not use them! Make DOUBLE DAMN SURE the muffin tins are CLEAN AND DRY. Water is a DEVIL. Oil can be almost as bad. Get a FULL FACE SHIELD, LONG GLOVES, apron and long sleeves. Wear leather slip-on boots, laces can leak. And a good box fan to blow the smoke away. I have been burned on the face and neck with lead splatter. Not fun. |
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Posted: 11/6/2008 9:38:03 PM EDT
[#35]
Quoted:
Okay - newb to the whole casting thing, but I had a tireshop give me several buckets worth of weights. Propane burner for heat Cast iron pot for melting How do you know the proper temp? Lead thermometer, Link I see some use muffin tins for casting - do you just pour in and let cool, or do you have to coat the cups w/ something for the ingots to come loose? Just pour in. When cool, invert pan, they will fall out. Link for info on linotype use, tin, etc.? Just Google "cast boolets". A great casting forum and site. |
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Posted: 11/7/2008 2:52:05 PM EDT
[#36]
TAG
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Posted: 11/14/2008 11:08:13 PM EDT
[#37]
set archive toggle
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Posted: 11/26/2008 1:10:39 AM EDT
[#38]
More contraband:
Look for Fe on weights. I haven't seen that warning yet. If you don't watch, and skim your floaters, you'll end up melting these steel weights into your mixture. |
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Posted: 11/26/2008 9:21:11 AM EDT
[#39]
Quoted:
More contraband: Look for Fe on weights. I haven't seen that warning yet. If you don't watch, and skim your floaters, you'll end up melting these steel weights into your mixture. You haven't seen a warning because steel weights cannot be melted in home casting equipment. They are the same basic material as the clips, the pot, the burner stand, the ladle... |
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Posted: 12/22/2008 4:18:42 PM EDT
[#40]
Wheel weights smelted into muffins bump. |
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Posted: 12/22/2008 4:26:55 PM EDT
[#41]
Any idea how much a muffin bump weighs?
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Posted: 12/22/2008 4:51:34 PM EDT
[#42]
Quoted:
Any idea how much a muffin bump weighs? The ones on the right, cast out the cast Iron pan weighed about 2 pounds each. Of course I used my bathroom scale and 10 muffins, so accuracy of my 2 pound statement may not be 100% correct. The muffins on the left should be about 1# to 1.5#s each. |
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Posted: 3/10/2009 12:03:13 AM EDT
[#43]
Bump; in hopes of getting other casters to add their 2 cents. Great info here, thanks to everyone who posted it.
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Posted: 11/10/2009 8:11:43 PM EDT
[#44]
btt
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Posted: 11/10/2009 9:58:22 PM EDT
[#45]
Quoted:
This is what I think the wheel weights with Zinc look like. http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg272/dryflash3/P8020121.jpg Lower left, normal wheel weights Upper left, coating on top of normal wheel weights, GTG Center, Zinc , they have a riveted on look
Right, Zinc that I thought I had sorted out, but found their way into the pot. Using low heat that just melts the lead, these float to the top. Just like I was told in a post. http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg272/dryflash3/P8020122.jpg 6 gang Lee mold, some ingots, and finished bullets. 200 gr SWC, 45 Cal, sizing to .452, using Lyman orange high temp lube. Thanks for all the help guys. Have to lube, and load them up now. I have run across some zinc wheelweights that looked almost identical to standard lead ww's. When I find one that looks odd, I use a pair of wirecutters to try cutting it(if it isn't magnetic). Lead will cut fairly easily, but you'll only make a little dent in zinc. |
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Posted: 11/10/2009 10:01:09 PM EDT
[#46]
Quoted:
More contraband: Look for Fe on weights. I haven't seen that warning yet. If you don't watch, and skim your floaters, you'll end up melting these steel weights into your mixture. I have heat treated steel at over 2000 degrees with zero melting. You will not even get close to melting steel at home without a torch. |
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Posted: 11/10/2009 10:20:24 PM EDT
[#47]
I have used an asphalt burner with a 35 gallon barrel mounted on top of fire rated bricks to melt a realy big batch of WW and lino mix, the goal being very consistent alloy every time I cast. I pour the lead into soda cans with the top cut off (no moisture of course) then after it cools I peel the can away leaving a nice large ingot. This works really well for the 95LB bottom pour pot that I use. The really big pot is great when using multiple 10 cavity molds, the temp stays consistant as does the rate that that it pours and you never have to wait for the lead to heat back up. You can just keep on going.
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Posted: 11/12/2009 6:09:02 AM EDT
[#48]
Tagferlater
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Posted: 11/13/2009 9:04:05 PM EDT
[#49]
I've encountered the zinc wheel weights––if a few were melted in 20 lbs of wheel weights––how badly would the alloy be effected?
What does zinc do to the alloy? I've read some posts on castboolits were one or 2 guys add trace amounts of zinc––how much zinc is OK & how much is too much? |
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Posted: 11/13/2009 10:46:46 PM EDT
[#50]
Be careful with old linotype scraps. There can be some VOCs released that can ruin your whole day if you breathe them.
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