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Posted: 4/1/2006 9:57:43 AM EDT
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I've been in the market for an old beater shotgun to rebuild and refinish, something to keep by the bedside for a little HD. Well, I came across and old 870 Wingmaster a few weeks ago, and couldn't have found a better gun to work with. I'm not sure exactly how old the gun is, but I would guess it left Remington back in the late 70's. It has a 20" barrel with the older style Remington rifle sights. The barrel is set up for only 2 3/4" shells, which is no big deal considering I won't be shooting 3" loads through this gun. I really like the rifle sights, as I keep a few slugs in the stock. The first priority was to replace the stocks. I did a little checking on the EE, and found a good deal on a Speedfeed pistol grip stock and forend (not sure the make of it). I replaced the wood, and then moved on to refinishing the metal. It was really a no brainer on the color, OD Green! I recently bought 8oz of the Duracoat OD Green and Matte Black, and have been really itching to try the stuff out. Well, this shotgun gave me that chance. I stripped the gun completely down and thoroughly degreased all the metal, then let it air dry. I even heated the parts a little with a heat gun to make sure the metal was 100% dry. I then coated the metal with the Duracoat, and used two coats over two days. I was very surprised at how easy it was to use. It took me exactly 28cc's of Duracoat to do the metal, and that was two coats. Doing a little math, that's just under 1oz of paint (30cc's = 1oz). Looks like I should get a few jobs out of 8oz of paint. In hindsight, I should have done a little more metal prep before coating. I will definitely bead blast next time, but didn't feel it was necessary on this gun. The wear on the metal gave the Duracoat plenty of material to stick to, but I will be investing in a bead blaster before I do another gun. Now, I just have see how durable the finish will be! Lauer suggested letting the gun cure for at least a couple of weeks, which is fine. Its loaded right now sitting beside my bed, so hopefully I won't have to use it! My next project will be an AR15 and my Springfield Armory Factory Comp 1911. So, how does the old Wingmaster look as a "tactical" home defense gun??            |
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According to other threads, its supposed to be a very durable and resistant finish. However, you must let it fully cure, which takes allmost a month. If it proves to be as durable as suggested, then I will definitely do my 1911 (OD frame/matte slide). My main concern in chipping, which I have seen happen with various other bake on finishes. |
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Looks great Jason. If I may offer some advice given to me by Lee Hadaway..don't use glass beads to blast the metal with. While it will remove any rust, finish..it leaves the surface looking like the surface of a golf ball.. If you want a nice rough surface..use aluminum oxide to blast with. I'm using it in my little "refinishing" hobby and it does a fantastic job. I blast at 40 psi. |
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Would a super fine grit sand paper (like 600 grit) be adequet to prep the surface with? I have a beater mossberg 500 that I was thinking of selling for a case of ammo but after seeing this thread I might refinish it to match my AR. Another question, the pump action on it is kind of loose (I can twist it latterally a little bit) and wanted to know if there was anything i could do to make it more solid like my Mossberg 590. ETA: where did you purchase the new stock and pump handle? |
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I ordered the DuraCoat through Midway, and paid around $26 per 8oz bottle. You can also order an airbrush kit through Midway for $25-28, but I think Wal Mart sells a similar set up for cheaper. Just check the model car section. I do recommend using an air compressor though, as I have read many complaints of others using canned air propellant. Of course, by the time you have bought a compressor, air brush, and paint, its a significant investment for just refinishing one gun. However, I use the compressor for a lot of other projects, so I don't really consider it in the cost. If you are going to do several guns (like I am), then it really saves you money when you see how much others charge for the same refinish job. Here's the breakdown. Standard 4gal/2HP compressor: $100, 8oz Matte Black Duracoat: $28, Airbrush Kit: $20, degreasing solvents for metal prep: $10. Total is just under $160, and you will have enough to do at least 4-5 long guns, depending on whether you refinish the stocks. It took me just under an ounce to do all the metal on my shotgun, and it has a lot more surface area than most rifles. I think most places charge $100+ for DuraCoat refinishing, so doing only two guns saves you money. |
| The finish looks great, nice job. Just a quick reminder, the 870's seen a few internal updates to let you quickly restore function if it jams or doublefeeds. The bottom of the bolt has a cutout to allow a shell to slide out and the lifter ramp has a"flexitab" cut in it to help this along. You look like you know what you're doing just wanted to throw that out there. Cheers, Grant |
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Here is a couple of before and after pics of our first two rifles for customers. This is a Marlin model 97. Before  After  Savage model 99. Before  After  We didn't do the stocks on either rifle..just the metal. Both were done in gun metal blue. The Savage was in really bad shape... |
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I picked up some 80 grit Aluminum Oxide from Tractor Supply today, and wanted to see how well it works. I was afraid it would be too coarse, but this isn't the case. I used it to blast a Remington 788 I am refinishing, and it worked very well. I did learn a few things in the process, though. First, I have to build a blast cabinet! Two, it will take a while to use up 50lbs of the Al-Ox. I used it at 40psi, and it worked very well. I refinished the 788 in matte black, and I'll post pics once I have it reassembled. I'm going to give it a little more time to cure than the shotgun, and see if that helps. |
Very interesting..I can buy 80 grit off the shelf up here for half the price of 120 grit. It didn't make the surface to rough Jason? You should check auto supply stores for blasting cabinets. I bought mine at a chain store called Princess Auto for $188. |
Actually, 80 grit is all I can find here in town. 50lbs of it set me back $24, which seems pretty reasonable considering how long it will take me to use it up. It did very well with the finish, and didn't roughen it up at all. Matter of fact, I'd called Lauer ahead of time and they actually recommended the 80 grit aluminum oxide. My 788 came out real well, and I have been very impressed with the DuraCoat so far. The jury is still out on durability, but I am going to allow the guns to fully cure before I really test them. As far as my blasting cabinet, I can build one for less than $25-35, so I doubt I will actually go out and purchase one. Basically, all you need is something to collect and capture all the blasting material, which pretty much any box will accomplish. I'll simply fabricate a cabinet out of wood, throw in a plexiglass window, some chicken wire at the bottom, and I should be set. I will be buying a parts degreaser, though! I'll post some pics of the 788 as soon as I refinish the stock. |
| Interesting. I was able to get by at around 45psi, and didn't try anything higher. Its possible the sprayer may have something to do with this, but I have no way to really know. I think my next project is going to be a Remington 7400 .30-06, which I'll refinish to match the 870. Then its on to the 1911... |
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We were going to build one too..but by the time we priced out a nozzle, air hose, etc..it was cheaper to buy the one on sale. You pour the media in the bottom of the cabinet and it is recycled. Be sure to get a mask and wear it while you are blasting Jason..after the aluminum oxide starts to wear out it gets really dusty. I think I'll stick with the 120 as that is what KGCoating recommends. Our next gun is a heavily engraved over and under shotgun. I'd hate to ruin the engraving by using a media that was to abrasive... |
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Absolutely on the cleaning part. I completely cleaned and degreased prior to blasting, as it makes everything so much easier. I did wipe the parts down with acetone after the blasting part, but I'm not real sure how much difference this made. Striker, I actually picked up a CH sand blaster kit from Wal Mart for $7, which included the nozzle and hoses. I don't know how it differs from the ones in the cabinets, but I wouldn't expect it to be too much. |
Another thing KGKoting suggests to do is wear cotton gloves after the blasting part to prevent oil from your hands getting on the surface. Jason..no different at all..I just took the easy way out! 
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Dayuum, that's sweet George!!! |
Great job! 
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nice lookin job ..this is why im addicted to refinishing ive done anything i could find in my vault and am currently doing anything my freinds come up with, its a great hobby and i like the three hour turn around time( at least thats what im avergeing start to finnish ) now i just gotta find somthin else to do maybe set up a plate and park operation |
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Thanks guys. A retired CO and I are trying our hand at it. If there is a demand for it we will probably start a small business so we can claim all the expenses.. Just by word of mouth we have approx a dozen rifles lined up. Duck hunting is very popular around here..there are a lot of shotguns around that need some tlc. |
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Looks great Jason. Matte black? I gotta warn you..it's addictive. Here is a Ducks Unlimited shotty we finished today for a customer. The receiver is stainless but would rust in the engraving. (He uses the gun for hunting..it isn't a safe queen). It's done in satin brass and gun blue.  Jake saw the shotgun and thought we were going hunting. 
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[Looks over at old 870 with bright metal and mix matched finishes.] "Damn you all." [Calculates number of hours painting house over number of hours refinishing times cost of complete set up with full sized compressor and all the paint guns money can buy.] "Sweety, I was thinking about painting the house this summer and....." Sweet finishes. Nice looking weapons. Very fine work gentlemen. |
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