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Posted: 4/15/2009 5:07:23 AM EDT
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Well living in florida the desrt color did not make much sense. So I took some ultra flat green spray paint and painted it
Here is the before pic. 
Here it is after spray painting it. The Pistol mag pouch needs some touch up, but I ran out of spray paint so I will touch it up in the future. 
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looks cool. did the paint make the material real stiff when it dried? I would be more worried about the paint cracking/peeling/chipping etc. J- The paint will eventually crack and fade as it is used. It'll eventually develop it's own natural camo pattern. |
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Here's a helpful hint for all you guys about to embark on this Rattle Can journey.
Make sure you cover up any Velcro that may be on the vest/pouches so that you don't spray paint it. Unless you don't care about using it again, then by all means paint it too.. CXS |
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Here's a helpful hint for all you guys about to embark on this Rattle Can journey. Make sure you cover up any Velcro that may be on the vest/pouches so that you don't spray paint it. Unless you don't care about using it again, then by all means paint it too.. CXS Good call, none of my stuff is velcro so I am good to go. I did have a idea for hunting season, buy another $10 vest toss whatever pouches on it I want, and then paint it blaze orange. |
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Here's a helpful hint for all you guys about to embark on this Rattle Can journey. Make sure you cover up any Velcro that may be on the vest/pouches so that you don't spray paint it. Unless you don't care about using it again, then by all means paint it too.. CXS Good call, none of my stuff is velcro so I am good to go. I did have a idea for hunting season, buy another $10 vest toss whatever pouches on it I want, and then paint it blaze orange. Gotta watch for the smell.. Unless deer are attracted to paint fumes.. 
CXS |
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Here's a helpful hint for all you guys about to embark on this Rattle Can journey. Make sure you cover up any Velcro that may be on the vest/pouches so that you don't spray paint it. Unless you don't care about using it again, then by all means paint it too.. CXS Good call, none of my stuff is velcro so I am good to go. I did have a idea for hunting season, buy another $10 vest toss whatever pouches on it I want, and then paint it blaze orange. Gotta watch for the smell.. Unless deer are attracted to paint fumes..
http://www.thedenverchannel.com/2006/0721/9554549_240X180.jpg CXS Would you people quit posting that mF'er, he is from my home town, and if I keep seeing him on ARFCOM< I'll have to go interview him for youins/ |
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I will let it air out in some pine straw for a while or set it over the stand for a week or two so they get used to it. Or I could poor fox pee all over it Go with doe estrus urine haha 
... Might be kinda cool to add some yarn or what not and make a ghilli vest haha |
| I just finished dyeing my desert color vest with dark green Rit dye. I put about 3 gallons of hot water in a 5 gallon bucket with half a bottle of dark green. I put a 10 lb weight on it to hold it down and poked at it with a stick to make sure there were not any trapped air bubbles. I soaked it for an hour and after thorough rinsing it's drip drying now. It looks great. |
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I just finished dyeing my desert color vest with dark green Rit dye. I put about 3 gallons of hot water in a 5 gallon bucket with half a bottle of dark green. I put a 10 lb weight on it to hold it down and poked at it with a stick to make sure there were not any trapped air bubbles. I soaked it for an hour and after thorough rinsing it's drip drying now. It looks great. Post pics or your lying. |
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I just finished dyeing my desert color vest with dark green Rit dye. I put about 3 gallons of hot water in a 5 gallon bucket with half a bottle of dark green. I put a 10 lb weight on it to hold it down and poked at it with a stick to make sure there were not any trapped air bubbles. I soaked it for an hour and after thorough rinsing it's drip drying now. It looks great. wash it before you wear it, or you will stain your clothes and skin. a 'thorough rinsing" does not cut it. |
| Almost all grocery stores carry Rit dye, it's less than $3 a bottle. It's in the detergent isle. I dyed my second vest this morning using the leftover dye from last night. It wasn't hot like it was supposed to be but I was looking to get a bit lighter green than the night be fore's job. Anyway I soaked it for 40 minutes to get a good green kaki color. I guess what I'm saying is that you can pull the vest out of the dye and rinse it in another bucket and see how you like the color, it does lighten as it dries, but build up to the color you want. I works great. |
| Dying synthetics with that stuff is sometimes difficult. Rit is not a commercial-grade dye, doesn't penetrate the nylon fibers thoroughly. Sometimes mixing a pint of isopropal (rubbing) alcohol with the hot water helps. Also, adding salt helps to achieve a darker color. |
| After dyeing I ran it through the washing machine twice. It bled some because I had an old cup towel in with it. It had a slight green tint after the first wash I didn't put a new cup towel in the second wash but it looked the same. As much as I can tell it was a successful dye job. |
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Here's my result after dyeing some desert camo MOLLE FLC's:
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2478/3533875841_2af795db25_b.jpg Here's the method I used... In a 5 gallon bucket I mixed: 3 gallons of HOT water 1/2 cup Dark Green liquid Rite Dye (1/2 of 8 fl oz. bottle) 1 cup of Salt 1 pint of 70% isopropyl alcohol The process is very simple and has been described in earlier posts, but here's how I did it... Wet the FLC and then soak in the bucket while stirring every few minutes and keeping the FLC submerged completely. Then remove and rinse repeatedly in the washing machine. Then wash once or twice in warm water with detergent. The darker one on the left was done first and it remained in the dye for 20 minutes. The lighter one on the right was done second in the same solution used on the first one (25 minutes after initial mixing) and it remained in the dye for 15 minutes. I didn't want these to be too green because I was aiming to match the green on the ACU I have. If you want it darker I would soak for 30 to 45 minutes... just keep checking the color of it while dyeing and pull it out to rinse when it is as dark as you want it to be. It worked pretty well. The belt area obviously has some sort of water repellent on it which causes the water to bead off of it and thus the dye did not work as well in this area. The plastic buckles did actually take up some of the dye although not very much. The netting, which previous posters had some trouble with, took up the dye well and uniformly. This is a very nice and cheap MOLLE solution. $12 a piece shipped from Ghilliesuits.com, about $4 for the dye, and another $1 or so for the isopropyl Thanks to the previous posters who inspired this project and gave the links to the cheap FLC's! 
EDIT: It's hard to tell in the picture, but the green is actually a little brighter than I'd like it to be so I decided to modify it. The previous procedure with a 20 minute soak time gave a pretty accurate approximation of OD green. I wanted it to be a little more muted so I decided to add some brown to the dye. I used the same batch of dye from the first round and added 2 quarts of boiling water (to heat it back up) and 1/4 cup of "Cocoa Brown" liquid Rite Dye (I suggest using less... maybe 1/8 of a cup because with only an additional 7.5 minutes of soak of the FLC that got 15 minutes of the green solution before, turns out more olive colored than I'd like) With the FLC that was OD green that soaked for 20 minutes in the first round I only soaked for 3 minutes is this green and brown solution and it turned out nicely; it muted the OD green, but didn't turn out too olive colored. If I was doing it again I would probably just add a small amount of the brown dye to the batch to begin with (probably 1/16 cup Cocoa Brown to 1/2 cup Dark Green) and soak around 20 to 25 minutes. This should give you a more subdued OD green color. |
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what kind of pouches do you want/need? These –– http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/cb.aspx?p=WX2&i=164174. Around that price would be nice; something not too expensive for experiementing on with paint and/or dye. |
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looks cool. did the paint make the material real stiff when it dried? I would be more worried about the paint cracking/peeling/chipping etc. J- The paint will eventually crack and fade as it is used. It'll eventually develop it's own natural camo pattern. +1 also, krylon with fusion is good stuff IMO, everything will chip or scrath eventually, but it holds up well. hell i was all freaked out cause i painted my holster with krylon but grabbed the wrong can and it was not the fusion made for plastic, it was just indoor/outdoor, i was worried it was gonna chip real easy, but after some use i am VERy impressed with durability. like i said, everything will peel or chip with enough force, but so far its holding up much better then expected. also, if you ever repaint use a differnt shade and only do the parts that need it, you will just make a better camo pattern in the end. |
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Here's my result after dyeing some desert camo MOLLE FLC's: http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2478/3533875841_2af795db25_b.jpg Here's the method I used... In a 5 gallon bucket I mixed: 3 gallons of HOT water 1/2 cup Dark Green liquid Rite Dye (1/2 of 8 fl oz. bottle) 1 cup of Salt 1 pint of 70% isopropyl alcohol The process is very simple and has been described in earlier posts, but here's how I did it... Wet the FLC and then soak in the bucket while stirring every few minutes and keeping the FLC submerged completely. Then remove and rinse repeatedly in the washing machine. Then wash once or twice in warm water with detergent. The darker one on the left was done first and it remained in the dye for 20 minutes. The lighter one on the right was done second in the same solution used on the first one (25 minutes after initial mixing) and it remained in the dye for 15 minutes. I didn't want these to be too green because I was aiming to match the green on the ACU I have. If you want it darker I would soak for 30 to 45 minutes... just keep checking the color of it while dyeing and pull it out to rinse when it is as dark as you want it to be. It worked pretty well. The belt area obviously has some sort of water repellent on it which causes the water to bead off of it and thus the dye did not work as well in this area. The plastic buckles did actually take up some of the dye although not very much. The netting, which previous posters had some trouble with, took up the dye well and uniformly. This is a very nice and cheap MOLLE solution. $12 a piece shipped from Ghilliesuits.com, about $4 for the dye, and another $1 or so for the isopropyl Thanks to the previous posters who inspired this project and gave the links to the cheap FLC's!
EDIT: It's hard to tell in the picture, but the green is actually a little brighter than I'd like it to be so I decided to modify it. The previous procedure with a 20 minute soak time gave a pretty accurate approximation of OD green. I wanted it to be a little more muted so I decided to add some brown to the dye. I used the same batch of dye from the first round and added 2 quarts of boiling water (to heat it back up) and 1/4 cup of "Cocoa Brown" liquid Rite Dye (I suggest using less... maybe 1/8 of a cup because with only an additional 7.5 minutes of soak of the FLC that got 15 minutes of the green solution before, turns out more olive colored than I'd like) With the FLC that was OD green that soaked for 20 minutes in the first round I only soaked for 3 minutes is this green and brown solution and it turned out nicely; it muted the OD green, but didn't turn out too olive colored. If I was doing it again I would probably just add a small amount of the brown dye to the batch to begin with (probably 1/16 cup Cocoa Brown to 1/2 cup Dark Green) and soak around 20 to 25 minutes. This should give you a more subdued OD green color. Here's the thread on the FLC and Rit dyeing - http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=6&f=10&t=270564 I like the lighter version in the pics myself. I was curious about the times involved. You could get more of a Sage Green color with the Dark green and perhaps some tan or gray. The link to the Rit dye color chart is in the thread. I'm curious about trying this in a washing machine. |
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