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11/23/2006 4:11:01 AM EDT
Got a romy kit from copes with a rusted muzzle brake that will not come off ...........soaked it in clp over night ten depressed the pin and tried to twist it off in a vice ...............didn't work, any suggestions?

p.s.  they didnt include a selector lever either.
11/23/2006 5:40:59 AM EDT
[#1]

Quoted:
Got a romy kit from copes with a rusted muzzle brake that will not come off ...........soaked it in clp over night ten depressed the pin and tried to twist it off in a vice ...............didn't work, any suggestions?

p.s.  they didnt include a selector lever either.


Try putting some heat to it ! a propane torch will work. and you are turning it the proper direction correct(LH threads)  

If you dont want to heat it up , try soaking it in PB Blaster or Kroil
11/23/2006 6:32:14 AM EDT
[#2]
I had one that was a bitch too.  I wrapped it in leather and put a pair of channelocks on it.  Remember, twist to the right as you're looking down the muzzle to loosen it.  Call Copes, they should send out another selector.
11/23/2006 9:24:43 AM EDT
[#3]
Call us on monday.  Explain to the person who answers that you received a kit without a selector lever.  We will get you one out in that days shipments.


BTW: Happy Thanksgiving.


Roger
www.copesdist.com
11/23/2006 9:34:24 AM EDT
[#4]
its great to see a company so willing to take care of its customers


as for the fix (may require killing the slant)
rust scale gets built up on the inside and basicly locks the 2 together
smack the brake with a hammer few times try and break some of the crap off
then stick it in a vise and twist it like you got a pair LOL

PS sometimes going the wrong way isnt a bad thang
11/23/2006 11:46:01 AM EDT
[#5]
I got one of the kits that was fairly rusty.  If you heat it up with a torch and get a pair of locking pliers it will come off.  It wasn't easy to get it off but it did come off....
11/23/2006 1:44:52 PM EDT
[#6]
Just to be certain....

Please remember that an AK-47 brake will loosen when turned CLOCKWISE while examining the brake from the FRONT - "reverse" threads to most of us :)

CLP is good - but a soak in KROIL would be far better...
11/23/2006 8:44:46 PM EDT
[#7]
Keep in mind that the replacement selector lever will most likely have a different serial number than the rest of your parts.... don't know if that's important to you or not.
11/24/2006 11:56:56 AM EDT
[#8]
Yes I was turning the right way .....Righty loosey , lefty tighty.

Stuck it on the stove and it twisted right off.

I'll call about it on monday ......thanks Roger.
2/25/2007 8:42:29 PM EDT
[#9]
Bump... can't let this die...
2/25/2007 11:37:47 PM EDT
[#10]
I got like 5 of their kits right before they went up 10 bucks.


The first one had the complete front end covered in rust, with light pitting. The slant break was frozen on too.

I cant complain really, 3 others were pretty good with no rust or major problems. The last one was new, still had the wax paper down the barrel

So far, ive only built the rusted one. Hit the barrel and it's gas block/front sight with some steel wool and it cleaned up just fine. Barrel looks great, used but not shot out. Plenty of rifling left.

Built it on a flat, all I have left to do is re-install the barrel and pin it.

All my kits were matching numbers barrel/bolt/bc. None had matching FCG(doesnt matter anyways) and one didnt have a matching dust cover.

Overall I was more than happy with the kits. Cool to see they're are on here and interact with customers.

Also, I dont think any of my selectors were numbered at all.

Im gonna go put my barrel back in now, it's almost 03:45AM but I just drank a redbull

ETA: I tried to get off my break. I oiled it up and let it sit. I punched out the pins holding in the front sight/break detent pin. Got the detent pin out, then torqued the break down with my press. I thought that'd get it out but it was a NO-GO. I gave up after that, I dont plan on taking it off really so im not worried about it. Im just worried i'll have a problemt when I press the barrel back into the trunnion.

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