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Posted: 9/12/2004 2:47:27 PM EDT
| I'm all set for my post, post ban party. I have my 6 position stock ready to go and I cant get my Ace stock off! The horror. I took out every screww I could find. Has anybody ever done this? |
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I'll assume you've got an ARFX stock. I'll assume that by "every screw" you mean all of them except the ones in the buttplate that go horizontally into the wrench flats of the receiver extension (buffer tube). Those 2 setscrews are often overlooked, they'll keep the whole shebang on lockdown until they're out. If this doesn't help, be a little more specific- which ACE stock (there are about 10 for the AR), where's it catching, how far off can you get it, etc.. |
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I'm going to have to revive this thread... I'm having the same problem with my ARFX Skeleton stock. I removed the screws from the butt plate (and al ot eh others as well). This suck ain't budging. I'm beginning to wonder if this bitch is glued to the extension tube. And on top of that I'm going to post the pre-emptive follow up question assuming someone can give me some good advice to get this off. Occe it's off I'm installing an Ace Ltd. M4 SOCOM. What is the best way to remove the receiver extension tube? Will it just unscrew off or am I looking at another sticky part that won't break free? |
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As already noted, be sure you've got all the screws out... On my 2 ARFX stocks, one comes off very easily while the other has always needs some lovin' from a rubber mallet to get it on or off the receiver extension. I've always had to give it a good rap on the buttplate to knock it off the extension. The quickest way to remove the extension itself is with an armorers wrench or a 5/8" open ended wrench. I put the lower on the floor, kneel on the pistol grip and give the wrench a quick 'pop' to break the extension loose... righty tighty, lefty loosey...  |
I'll have to get the rubber mallet. ALL the screws are out and when I twist the thing something is moving, but I have a feeling it's the extension tube moving WITH the stock. GRRRRR 
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I'd be happy to be at the stage where that is any issue... this thing is stuck at the molecular level... I think it somehow permanently bonded itself to the receiver tube because this bitch ain't budging. |
| I know this sounds crazy but did you remove the foam pad thing yet. It has to be pulled back little by little so you can take the stock off. I had two one came off after I fooled with it for a long time. The other I just cut off a got a new one for 4 bucks. It was not worth my time to save it. |
| Remove the screw from the back that does into the buffer tube. Then twist the buffer tube out off the upper. Grip hard as you may be just spinning the neoprene over the buffer tube. Once the whole stock clears the upper, just twist the whole thing off. Then, if you want, pull the buffer tube out of the removed stock. Remember to catch your buffer tube retainier and pin as well as the rear takedown detent and spring. |
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I have had the same problem with arfx stocks..... However, when installing it... I use a little soap and water to install the neoprene cover.. so.... the easiest way to remove it... a paper towel wet with soapy water and lightly squeeze the towel on the sleeve and it slids right off. No brute force or mallets needed. :) |
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OK... I got it off... I shot some WD-40 into the hole in the back and where the stock meets the receiver... then I beat the ass out of it with a rubber mallet. Knocked it loose after a few hits. The receiver extension tube (RET) came loose with it. Of course, as Murphy would have it, the problems just kept on coming. First problem... and hindsight 20/20 I should have checked this before getting as far as I did. After the new stock was all locked down in place it was time to put the buffer and spring in. I fed the spring into the RET and then got to the buffer... and that was as far as it went. The buffer won't go into the RET. It's not the spring detent keeping it from going in... it's the lip that is somehow formed on the edge of the RET. It's not flat all the way around... and it's looks almost like it's slightly damaged. This "lip" is making the RET hole a smaller inside diameter than the buffer's outside diameter, so it can't get past this part now. I'm not sure if I should just send it back and have them replace it or just file down the "lip" and hope for the best. If I decide the send it back for replacement I run into problem #2 which is going to probably need to be addressed at some point anyway. The frickin allen/hex screw stripped out while I was tightening down the sling gusset. There is no way I can get it off with an allen key now. Suggestions on how to get it off to put a new one on? I'm expecting "drill it out" although I've never done this to a stripped our screw before. I hate allen screws. They always do this to me. If they's just make the hole a little deeper it probably wouldn't happen so often. If I file it I still need to worry about whether it's filed down enough to allow the bolt carrier to go into the RET during function check/firing. When it rains it pours. It really takes all the excitement right out of a new toy... Should I start a new thread to address this problem? |
Alrighty.. so now I'm shopping for a Dremel and a file today. Looks like I'll be using the birthday money I got from the in-laws for this little project. While I'm in here, I'll also ask, for those who have installed an M4 SOCOM. What is the best way to get a dead center alignment of the stock. Please don't say laser level, because I don't think I could justify buying one of those jst for this purpose.  Also, again for those that have installed this stock before: how loose was the stock/RET when you screwed it into the receiver? Was there a lot of play and is this partly the purpose of the gosset, so tighten it down into place? Obviously the odds of the stock threading down as far as it'll go and be aligned center are pretty unlikely so I would assume that this is normal, but I just wanted to make sure. Thanks again guys |
| Did you try reading the -23&P prior to attacking the rifle with a screwdriver? Chapter 3 in particular? |
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They can be a real bitch to get off. I just unscrewed the 2 back screws in the buttplate and squirted a little Windex down the soft, cushy, warm, fuzzy tube pad thing. Then just slowly twist the pad back then move the stock back, move the pad move the stock, move the pad move the stock. Don't loose the little spring in the lower. I bent mine but it still manages to slide in and hole the safety selector in. Good luck on getting the tube off. THAT IS A MAJOR BTICH!! |
Who said anything about a screwdriver? Not sure what you're referring to... |
Does a "cut-off" wheel come with a Dremel kit or is it something you have to buy separate? I'm not too versed in Dremel-speak yet. I'm figuring that I can do both jobs with the Dremel though and skip buying the file. I can probably Dremel down the little "lip" that is stopping the buffer from getting into the RET. What do you think? |
Why not just get a $0.50 allen wrench that fits it? Look for them at your local hobby shop. |
This quote from the initial post:
Unless he's removing screws with a butterknife... [Edited to add] Ok I didn't realize you were ressurecting a thread from Sept - I was responding to original thread starter. |
Moly who? Actually, the one I was removing was on a rifle I got in a trade. I didn't install it. |
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______________________________________ Originally posted by Pathfinder74 Does a "cut-off" wheel come with a Dremel kit or is it something you have to buy separate? I'm not too versed in Dremel-speak yet. I'm figuring that I can do both jobs with the Dremel though and skip buying the file. I can probably Dremel down the little "lip" that is stopping the buffer from getting into the RET. What do you think? _______________________________________ Depends, there are several different kits available, you will just have to check the contents. A cut off wheel set consists of two parts, the arbor and the replaceable emory disk. The arbor runs ~$4.00 and a sleeve of 36 cut off disks runs ~$8.00. Part number for the disks is #409, not sure of number for arbor. These will cut just about anything you will need to, but the disks do wear down and are fragile to shock. To slot a screw will only take a few seconds. If you have not done it before, I would suggest you pratice on a similar type screw held by pair of vice grips before cutting the stripped screw in your stock. The kit will contain several different grinding bits to solve your other problem quickly. You will find that a Dremel will be one of the most useful small power tools you will ever buy. |
Just wanted to post this so if this thread left a bad taste in anyone's mouth about getting an Ace stock hopefully this will redeem them...
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Here's another good word for the guys at ACE: There's a roll pin in the bottom rail just behind were the rail fits into the collar at the receiver. For a while that pin has been walking out when I've fired the rifle for an extended time and no matter what I've tried to do the pin refused to stay in place. I finally got off my broken ass, called ACE, and described the problem, saying that I thought maybe the pin wasn't large enough. The gent on the other end agreed and send he would send me two larger pins and would mushroom the top end of them so they would stay in place once I drove them home. Well, not only did he send me the pins as promised, he sent them via Priority Mail! A $3.25 charge (that they ate!) for two lousy pins, which were also gratis. Folks, we're talking some seriously great people here who deserve a lot of our business. 
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