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Posted: 11/28/2011 1:20:41 PM EDT
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Trimmer just arrived and seller also included the trim dies for .223 & .308 guess I don't have to wait to try it.
So I;m thinking use the Lee universal decap die , then the trimmer and finish with a FL sizer set shallow ? any other thoughts ? |
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i use a universal decapper, then trim and size with the rt but i don't set the shoulder back all the way. then i use my redding sizer with carbide ball with no decaping pin
to finish size. this pulls any burrs off the inside of the neck and i don't have to chamfer or debur the cases. |
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Decap on SS first if you have one. Then clean cases.
Mount trim die in dedicated toolhead, followed by regular resizer at next available position. On my 550 toolhead I have to mount trim die/trimmer in station #1 and resizer in station #3. rRsizer is used to run necks over an expander ball which brings the neck up to a reasonable dimension –– the trim die really squeezes them down. The hole spacing in the toolhead is such that I can't mount them right next to each other. Depending upon what press you have, this may or may not be a problem for you. The bastard is loud. Earpro is recommended. I don't bother hooking up vacuum, that just makes everything louder. Every 50 or so cases I just give the toolhead and trimmer a quick vacuum. Don't bother priming until after you tumble lube off of cases. Either prime using a handheld primer or prime when you load using another dedicated toolhead with charging die, seater and crimper mounted/adjusted. I don't bother chamfering and deburing –– the trimmer blade spins at such high RPM that it cuts very cleanly. The post-sizing tumbling does a decent job of taking care of any minute burrs left from trimming. |
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FL carbide sizing die trimmer with die set high enough to not hit shoulder. Trimmer set low enough to trim. RCBS neck sizer die set just to kiss the neck. The expander runs all the way though the neck. To remove any burr left by the trimmer. What station are you using to trim ? |
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On my 650 I have a full length sizing / decapping die set up in station one, but I don't set the shoulder back all the way. Station two is empty. Station 3 has my trimmer set up to fully size the brass so there is full contact of the brass with the die while trimming. NOTE: with the 1200 in station three you can't put the front tool head locating pin in. I use an appropriate sized pin bent like in an L instead to help hold the tool head in. Station four is empty and station 5 has an "M" die in just to slightly touch the case mouth. If I don't use the "M" die I get jacket shavings when loading FMJBTs.
This works good for me. Right now I'm working on going through close to 15 gallons of 223 brass. I don't know how it could be done faster. After running the brass through the 650 I have to run it through the Super Swage - which is the bottle neck in the system. Since you have a 1050, that isn't much of a concern!  Every time I'm standing and doing primer pockets I have some serious debates about laying down the money for a 1050 and just leave it set up for 223. If I could find a deal like you did, I know I'd be looking for some more room on my bench!
EDITED TO ADD: When I'm prepping brass I have a system down that works to keep the trimming motor from getting real hot. I process brass until I have 2 650 bins filled up. I then turn off the trimmer and vacuum and I put those processed cases that are lubed in the tumbler to clean them off. As that brass is tumbling, I go back, lube up some cases if I need to and process two more bins. By the time that's done, the brass in the tumbler is clean. After that I just keep the cycle going! |
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FL carbide sizing die trimmer with die set high enough to not hit shoulder. Trimmer set low enough to trim. RCBS neck sizer die set just to kiss the neck. The expander runs all the way though the neck. To remove any burr left by the trimmer. What station are you using to trim ? On the 1050 station 5 |
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What a timely thread! I just ordered a 1200 and a super swage tonight. I was planning on FLR/decapping on station 1 and just trimming on station 3 of my 550. Is there a way to adjust the 1200 so that it trims only and doesn't size the brass? ...Or like RR hinted at, do you adjust it to the point where the trim die contacts the case enough to hold it securely in place without actually sizing the case much? |
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If you size seperately- and before the RT 1200 trimmer, the neck will get resized down by the RT1200 sizer die.
If you size seperately- and after the RT 1200 trimmer, the case/neck will get stretched by the seperate sizing die. Both situations sort of negate any advantages to sizing seperately. I have a 650 and: decap on station 1 size/trim on station 3 neck size on 5 The neck sizer on station 5 has the expander ball trimmed to just slightly open the case mouth up on LC brass. The expander does it's job pushing into the case mouth and does not stretch the brass. This also rolls off any burr left by the RT1200. The air flow created by the vacuum helps cool the trimmer motor. Leave the vacuum running and wear ear protection. Tinnitus (permanent ringing in ears) is a bitch and you will regret ever getting it- there is no cure. |
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Trimmer just arrived and seller also included the trim dies for .223 & .308 guess I don't have to wait to try it. So I;m thinking use the Lee universal decap die , then the trimmer and finish with a FL sizer set shallow ? any other thoughts ? Like 1911Smith mentioned, you have to Full Length size the brass BEFORE trimming it, the FL sizer will have a built in decapping pin, I highly suggesting using a Redding LF resizing die w/Carbide button as this anong with spray lube with stop the decapping/inside neck sizing buttom from pulling the necks out of spec on extraction. When I switched to Redding die's and the carbide button, I have pretty much 0 variation in my sizing and trimming. Every once and ahwile the trimmer will cut a piece of brass really short, which I have not been able to figure out as the shoulder set back is the exact same as the rest of my brass, so those cases just get recycled and I move on. Typically you will install the universal decap die on another tool head that yo use for loading your rounds, this will push out any media you may have in the flash hold from tumbling the brass after trimming it. For .223 I have 2 tool heads: 1st tool head has: Station #1 Redding FL sizing die w/carbide sizing button, Station #4 has the case trimmer (The trimmer die is adjust to just above the shoulder so it does not bump it back, since the FL sizer already took care of that) then adjust the trimmer to trim the brass to 1.750", and stations #2, #3 & #5 are all empty. My second tool head has: #1 RCBS Universal decaping die (Brad doesn't really matter), Station #2 has the Powder measure, Station #3 has my Mr. Bullet Feeder, Station #4 has my Redding bullet seating die w/built in dial, Station #5 has Redding Bullet crimp die. I believe this is the best and easiest way to set up your press to process any bottle necked brass. If you reload more then 1 bottle necked round, then you can just unscrew the trimmer from the trim die on 1 tool head and screw it into the other, I would suggest using either an RCBS or Hornady locking nuts on the trim die to prevent movement when installing/uninstalling the trimmer. HTH -Masta |
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The trimmer is more accurate if the trim die does the sizing, if the trim dies isn't sizing the case then every case isn't the same dimension during trimming.
Even brass with different hardness and spring back will trim the same if they are sized in the trim die, being sized in the trim die assures every case is being forced to the same dimension during the trimming operation. The best way is decap in station one, FL size completely and trim in station three, and follow with a neck sizing die(I use a bushing die to keep from overworking the brass) with carbide expander ball in station five to set the final neck tension and remove any burrs. I see no benefit in sizing first, if you have case necks that are bent so bad that the trim die will not make them round then replace the decapping pin retainer on the decapping die with a .223 tapered expander, this will open the necks and leave sizing for the trim die where it should be done. My trimmers set the shoulder back perfectly and trim to +/-.0005" OAL with a total neck run-out of .002" or less(.001" or less on 90%) which is good enough for even BR brass prep. |
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One more tip for the 1200 that I forgot about that I do. I put a locking ring on top and underside of the tool head. When you turn that motor on, there's a lot of torque. The locking ring on the underside of the tool head helps to keep the die from moving. That sounds like a good idea, stopping at Grafs in STL today was a waste of time should have ordered online Think I'll undersize with a FL die in 1 station , swage, 5th station trim and finish sizing, 7th station M die,, anything wrong with that ? |
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One more tip for the 1200 that I forgot about that I do. I put a locking ring on top and underside of the tool head. When you turn that motor on, there's a lot of torque. The locking ring on the underside of the tool head helps to keep the die from moving. That sounds like a good idea, stopping at Grafs in STL today was a waste of time should have ordered online Think I'll undersize with a FL die in 1 station , swage, 5th station trim and finish sizing, 7th station M die,, anything wrong with that ? Sounds like a good plan to me! You could send that 1050 this way and I'll check it out for you! 
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I don't dbl nut the trimmer on my 1050. I do however put the nut to the die below the tool head. This makes it easy to make adjustments. Seeing as I don't size with the trimmer die I don't have to do that very often. I do need to make adjustments after changing cutter blades.
I keep my 1050 set-up so the swager back up rod hits hard at the bottom of the stroke for the type of brass I'm processing. This helps to limit travel in the tool head and to give a better swage. When set -up right I think you'll find that the 1050 with the RT1200 trimmer can stay between + or - .001. With the biggest variance coming from the headspace and the run out of the bearings in the trimmer motor. Another reason I never used the trimmer die to size is ; its to much trouble to clean and takes to long to do it. Along with the fact that I like my carbide die for a number of other reasons. OP are you going to run a vac to the trimmer ?? |
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OP are you going to run a vac to the trimmer ??
Was planning to, got a little 1 gal shop vac that'll fit under bench top. Tried talking myself into the carbide die but to cheap guess I could toss the SS600 in the EE and cover most of itReason I asked is. After the trimmer is set in the die I put a mark on the trimmer to to index the vac port in the die. So the vac is always pulling though the port. When making adjustments to the trim length this makes for a fast set up to the vac. Did you buy this trimmer new ? Is it one of the older models ? When Dillon changed over to the newer style trimmer motors they had trouble with the power supply. I know because they replaced both of my power supply cords. If not changed out for the next gen of power supply cords the brushes in the motor will burn out after about 40 to 50 thousand case's. This might not matter to you but it was killing me
You might want to pull the brushes and have a look at them. I have also changed the bearings on both of my trimmer motors. The bottom bearing is the 1st to go. buy the way these are the cutting blades Part # TCMT21.51 TCMT110204 AT530. Much cheaper than Dillon
TCMT21.51 TCMT110204 1/4 3/32 0.016 Cont Finish To Medium Boring PS AT530 TO-2554 $5.98 $ http://www.usshoptools.com/current_year/all_products/2010_11_pdf/PGS_326_345.pdf |
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ReefRaider thanks for the tips, Unit was purchased as new but from a third party and I see nothing that shows any use. Brush are available from manufacture so I would think bearing too. not a big deal and it will never see 40000 pieces of brass I'm thinking. Whats up with the power supply cords ?
Thanks for the insert # , I'll thinking it's the same one my small boring bar at work uses , will see Friday
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It was something with the DC converter board that's built into the cord. If your trimmer has a production date which it should. Ck it if more than say 1 year old I would call Dillon to make sure . The trimmers are only warranted for 1 year anyway. In this pic you can see where I mounted the switch.
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I was thinking of getting the normal RT-1200 to trim .308 & .30-30, and then getting a trim die from CH4D for the 6.8 SPC. Supposedly that combo will work without having to have a seperate trimmer for one caliber. Has anyone tried the trim dies from CH4D, and how is the quality on them? |
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progressive w/ case feeder: Trim/Resize on RT1200 Lyman M die for proper neck sizing ETA: on the LNL AP, I can't actually fit the Lyman M die onto the 5th station w/ the RT1200 on. I usually just use the RCBS die w/ the RT1200, then tumble the brass to get the lube off, and then position the Lyman M die on station 1 during the next pass that also does the priming/powder charging/seating/crimping. |
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TCMT21.51 TCMT110204 1/4 3/32 0.016 Cont Finish To Medium Boring PS AT530 TO-2554 $5.98 $ http://www.usshoptools.com/current_year/all_products/2010_11_pdf/PGS_326_345.pdf ReefRaider, I like the way you think! I was going to order a spare from Dillon, but I thought I'd check McMaster Carr - my dad always said if they don't have it, it isn't made- they have them too. As you found, they are much cheaper than Dillon. http://www.mcmaster.com/#tcmt-carbide-inserts/=f5pe6d If you want a cutter made out of a higher grade steel they have them too. I think the standard is good enough for cutting brass. I don't think I'll be cutting my trim die anymore!
TCMT-21.511/4"3/32"1/64"3244A44210.223244A3338.483244A332$5.97 By the way, nice set up there with the 1050s! You guys are going to persuade me into getting a 1050 yet! |
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I was thinking of getting the normal RT-1200 to trim .308 & .30-30, and then getting a trim die from CH4D for the 6.8 SPC. Supposedly that combo will work without having to have a seperate trimmer for one caliber. Has anyone tried the trim dies from CH4D, and how is the quality on them? I have one in 6.8 but dont have enough 6.8 brass yet to do a run on it. I'll let you know how it works, but it looks like it will be just fine. |
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on my 550b I put the case prep tool head in that has a universal decapper in #1 and the size/trim die in #3 (set up to trim just a tad short); then I tumble the lube off the cases and clean the primer pockets.
once case prep is done, I put my loading tool head in, it's got a lee collet die in #1, charge/powder die in #2, bullet seater in #3 and crimp die in #4. I use the collet die in #1 because the trim die sizes the neck pretty tight; it's not needed if your using boattail bullets because they'll feed just fine and size the neck back up, but I do it because I don't like loading good bullets and having them size the neck back up because sometime the ogive gets deformed; now I know the bullet gets deformed a lot more being forced down the barrel, but it's just something I do because it isn't all that much trouble. |
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TCMT21.51 TCMT110204 1/4 3/32 0.016 Cont Finish To Medium Boring PS AT530 TO-2554 $5.98 $ http://www.usshoptools.com/current_year/all_products/2010_11_pdf/PGS_326_345.pdf ReefRaider, I like the way you think! I was going to order a spare from Dillon, but I thought I'd check McMaster Carr - my dad always said if they don't have it, it isn't made- they have them too. As you found, they are much cheaper than Dillon. http://www.mcmaster.com/#tcmt-carbide-inserts/=f5pe6d If you want a cutter made out of a higher grade steel they have them too. I think the standard is good enough for cutting brass. I don't think I'll be cutting my trim die anymore!
TCMT-21.511/4"3/32"1/64"3244A44210.223244A3338.483244A332$5.97 By the way, nice set up there with the 1050s! You guys are going to persuade me into getting a 1050 yet! I found the bearing's for $16.00 for 10 of them deliverd here. Let me know if you want the part # on the bearing's.
http://www.drillspot.com/ |
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I found the bearing's for $16.00 for 10 of them deliverd here. Let me know if you want the part # on the bearing's.
http://www.drillspot.com/ Well ya hope to never need them but at that price they can go into the spare parts bin
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The bearing part # is BL R6-2RS . The brushes I have looked high and low for. Found some that are close and will work. But your best bet is to just buy them from Dillon. I had 4 sets. You'll find that one side will wear out before the other. So if your checking them be sure to look at each side. Be sure to put them back in the same side as they came from and that the top is still in the top position. I mark mine as soon as I remove them. As a point of reference my trimmer motors have over 350K on them . They have both been rebuilt once now.
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Here are the Brushes
And thanks for the bearing #'s Got to ask if you don't mind what do you do to go through that much brass ? and what parts would you say to keep for the 1050 |
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What make you so sure those are them?? I found some that were close but the pig tail on the brush was a little to short to get the full use out of the brush.
I process brass for other people along with putting some rnds down range myself
Your not running on an auto drive so. Odds are you'll lose a part before you wear one out. The indexer paw is the weak link get that and the spring that resets it. I keep just about every small part and most of the springs. But I also have two machines that have to run when I need them. Some small tubing to go on the primer slide. If you do load in volume get a spare spring for the primer punch return. One or two of the bottom end caps for the primer tube insert. I have two spare ratchet bars Those were the 1st thing I removed from the machines Extra bearings for the lower. This also allows me to just have bearings greased and ready to install. The bearings that come out are cleaned later and lubed for the next go round. But once more I have two machine to do at the same time so I try to save as much time as I can doing the C&M.
What ever you do DO NOT let the handle come down when there is a shell plate in place with out a tool head on the machine. This is the only time the swager can hit the shell plate. If that happens you will be buying a new shell plate. Don't ask me how I know 
You should start a Super 1050 thread
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What make you so sure those are them?? I found some that were close but the pig tail on the brush was a little to short to get the full use out of the brush.
My trimmer had the Von Weise part number lable and thats the brushes that are for that part # Odds are you'll lose a part before you wear one out.
Cool just like Stars |
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You should start a Super 1050 thread Please don't start a 1050 thread. Not this close to Christmas anyway. It wouldn't take too much to send me over the edge to order one! I'm in for a 1050 thread, but don't forget the 1050 p0rn.  In reality, I am too. However I have the terrible feeling there would be hell to pay in the Henny household right before Christmas. I'm retiring next month....maybe after I hang up the badge and gun belt I'll have to give a call to Arizona!
ETA: when you guys start the thread........pictures. Lotsa pictures!
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