The other issue in addition to parts breakage is tolerance stacking that creates problems when a gun is run hard. My rule of thumb, if I can't have a factory rifle, is to use Colt FCG's, bolts, and barrels.

Just be sure you have a mil-spec bolt and you'll be good to go.

What we see go down at class falls into these catagories.

Wear items
Specifically, extractors and extractor springs.
Bolt rings
Buffer springs

Parts guns
Parts ain't parts. If you get your stuff from gun shows and garage sales, don't expect quality
I had a guy in a recent class bragging on T1 that he built his carbine for $400 and "it is just as good as..." That feternoon it wouldn't ectract. The extractor was worn snooth and then re park'd; the extractot spring was flat (no joke) and the insert was just crumbs.
We replaced it all.
On T3 his bolt broke in half.

Hobby guns
Generally ok, but non MPI bolts may not last (we see less problems with breaking lately) and some of the new guns may not work at all. These should not have to be shot in- they should work out of the box.
Chambers are often 223, no matter what is marked on the barrel. When the gun gets hot, extraction slows down.

Worn out guns
Parts wear. Sometimes the guns are just plain shot out- more often, military guns.

Think MEAL
Magazines- serviceable mags
Extractor- serviceable
Ammunition- quality ammo, not garbage
Lube- generous lubrication

If you have that, most of the guns- even some of the very low end guns- might do well for a class or more.

On the other hand, some of the companies make absolutely great guns. They will last a long time.

Absent the gas key/ gas key bolts, never.

Originally Posted By xmikex: Bolts and bolt carriers tend to be the primary issues I've seen. Bring a spare. If you've got a chrome-lined barrel, m4 feed ramps, properly staked gas key, good bolt with strong extractor (add a d-fender or "O" ring if needed) you shoud be set. Mags are another weak point. The latest Pmags have actually gotten good reviews (though I've never used them). I've used USGI mags with magpul followers and been happy. Be sure to locktight BUIS, Aimpoints, eo-techs, etc. etc. If it's got screws and its on your gun, locktight that sucka' It sucks to lose a BUIS or have an eo-tech pop off during a string of fire. LUBE: I use Grease The key is to keep the gun lubed up. Run it wet and you'll be happy. I like grease because it stays where it's supposed to and doesn't run off the parts that need lube like oil does. Take care, Mike

Have to 2nd the loc tite deal. Use the blue, and it will keep screws from coming out but isnt impossible to get them out easily. A soldering gun on the bolt head for a minute will break down the loc tite and the bolt will be able to be removed just as easily as without any on there. It works with red and green too but just have to heat it up more.

I also put it on the bolt for the pistol grip, castle nut (staked as well), ACOG mount screws.

I keep enough spare parts that I pretty much have 2-3 of everything I need, and if I replace something it gets ordered so I keep the same amount on hand. I keep a complete spare BCG for each AR15 I have.

Bolts get rebuilt at 3k rounds as well as the buffer spring gets replaced...Check everything during every cleaning...

Originally Posted By Pat_Rogers: I have written several articles in SWAT about this very stuff in the past few years, and i keep it in the AAR's from the classes. We seldom see the Locking Nut come loose- probably because most of the guns coming to class are Colt or others that actually build them to spec. Probably 60% of the optics mounts we see are Larue. The throw lever is lockable, and there is thread locker on the screws, so not to many problems there. We have been trying to convince guys to run the guns wet- as in wet- for about 15 years now. Some are payning attention, and that reduces the potential for problems. Whew!

Those spray bottles of CLP come in damn handy dont they? There's one on my desk right now actually...

Originally Posted By Pat_Rogers: Actually i haven't used CLP in 7 years. I run Slip 2000 EWL, but yeah i have a big spray bottle on the line and i give the students a 1 oz bottle for their gear.

Alot of the talk of guys saying they use a liberal application of some light synthetic motor oil like mobil 1 seems to make a lot of sense to me. Have you tried anything like that yourself or just wound up happy with slip?

Thanks!

Pat, thanks for the info. It is nice to have someone around here that can contribute like you can.

Originally Posted By K9Dude124: I've used Super Lube (Teflon grease) for my Sig Sauer Handguns for many years and have never had any problems. Used it on my M-4 also. No worries so far.

Are you using JUST the grease? The purpose of oil lubes on the AR15 is that it gets down into the nooks and crannys of the gun when applied, and then you have to use enough that there is enough on there where there will still be lube when it starts getting burned off. You should be using an oil/liquid lube in your AR... Personally Ive found a couple sprays of CLP every 3-400RDS keeps things working for quite a while depending on how used the gun is. A newer gun where things havent quite worn together yet might need it more often to ensure reliability.

Guy... Don't get wrapped around the axle as to what brand of lube.. Slip.. Breakfree.. Mobil 1 ..
it all works, some a tad better then others, the key is how much and where and at what interval..

I've been to a course now and again and the guns that run consistently are built to a standard and ran by guys who know how to keep them running,how to clean them, etc.

Bad magazines probably account for more problems then anything else.. lack of lube...
Last year I ran into a problem with low powered Radway Ammo making my gun sluggish and causing some failures to extract. A new extractor and spring and some fresh lube and I was back in the game..

I did loose a Locking lug on a Bushy bolt several years back in a course..but that gun had about 10K rds on it when it went..
Keep spares and your good. One year I ran a gun and kept a spare BCG.. the next year I just kept a spare gun.
If you don't have a spare gun, then at a minimum have a spare bolt.

Honestly.. the only reason guys break shit at a class, is because for a lot of them and there guns, it's the first time it ever ran hard ..300-500 rds per day... and the low quality crap usually "floats" to the top quick. EVERY body's shit breaks... but the quality stuff just does it less often and with lesser predictability...

If you have a Gun that has thousands of rds thru it and it runs great.. you will have no problems.

Trying to predict different combinations of lowers/uppers/LPKs/BCG's etc is like trying to pic the winning lottery numbers.... good luck...Arm yourself with knowledge and learn how to maintain/clean and lube is the key and have a spare BCG and good mags and you will be fine.

Thanks for the kind words...

Re grease/ oil.
While the M1/ M14 were made to run on Lubriplate, the M16 runs better on oil.
Having said that (and i say it often), grease, 3-1 oil, motor oil, saliva, WD40, Urine, CLP, Slip 2000 and Vagisil will all keep the gun running (and i have done it.) However, Urine smells, and some of the other stuff doesn't last long.

Of the greases, we have used TW25B (known as Elephant Sperm) for certain applications- specifically water related.

But i think oil is a much better lubricant overall.

Yes- i believe that the Slip EWL is less likely to burn off, more likely to stay viscous and probably a whole lot better for your health.

See "Keep Your Carbine Running", Dec 2006 SWAT magazine.

Originally Posted By Pat_Rogers: What we see go down at class falls into these catagories. Wear items Specifically, extractors and extractor springs. Bolt rings Buffer springs Parts guns Parts ain't parts. If you get your stuff from gun shows and garage sales, don't expect quality I had a guy in a recent class bragging on T1 that he built his carbine for $400 and "it is just as good as..." That feternoon it wouldn't ectract. The extractor was worn snooth and then re park'd; the extractot spring was flat (no joke) and the insert was just crumbs. We replaced it all. On T3 his bolt broke in half. Hobby guns Generally ok, but non MPI bolts may not last (we see less problems with breaking lately) and some of the new guns may not work at all. These should not have to be shot in- they should work out of the box. Chambers are often 223, no matter what is marked on the barrel. When the gun gets hot, extraction slows down. Worn out guns Parts wear. Sometimes the guns are just plain shot out- more often, military guns. Think MEAL Magazines- serviceable mags Extractor- serviceable Ammunition- quality ammo, not garbage Lube- generous lubrication If you have that, most of the guns- even some of the very low end guns- might do well for a class or more. On the other hand, some of the companies make absolutely great guns. They will last a long time.

Thanks Pat, that is exactly what I wanted to know. Great info.

Bill

I believe this is the Article Mr. Rogers was referring to:

www.ar15.com/content/swat/keepitrunning.pdf