Might sound dumb to those who are SURE about their side in this argument, but a fairly significant reason that I bought all Echo stuff was so I never had to worry about that question.  Even run the Echo mix, so the bottle says 50:1 and the equipment manual calls for 50:1.

I would recommend buying exactly what the manufacturer recommends and mixing it to thier ratio.

I'm not a huge fan of amsoil.  I ran it when I was a kid and raced motocross and never had any problems that I know of.  We've tested it and it actually never made it far enough to be field tested.  It was ruled out in our lab test and I can tell you in our particular application, it would have caused catastrophic failure in a very short time.  

These types of things are a huge concern for us as we really have no idea or way of proving that customers use a sub-par oil.  If an engine burns down under warranty because of it, we have to foot the bill.

Thanks for the info. I appreciate the insight and will continue with my current practice.

 

Look at the gas cap on the engine. If it says 50:1 run 2.7oz. of oil per gallon of gas. Run the oil/gas ratio the engine manufacturer specs. If you over oil a 2 stroke it leads to higher carbon build up. If you stick a ring from too much carbon and scuff a cylinder complete seizure is just a matter of time. Run only the best ashless TC-3 oil you can find. Don't mix oils. Find a good one and stick with it. And finally, Engine tuner is a 2 strokes best friend. If your not using it now. Check it out.

Amsoil Dominator 42/1, will work on everything I own, 2st dirt bikes, chainsaws, weedwakers, hell I even throw it in the 4st lawn mower, runs fine.

Oh quit with the logic & facts.  I want to see destruction.

I'm not one to fuck up this goat rope with facts but.....

Here is one oil manufacturer that says follow the engine builders guidelines for mix ratio.

Red Line Oil

Thank you, thank you, thank you. The voice of reason has spoken.

This has to be the funniest post of the month.

This needs to be added to ARFCOM 101.

After using it 10 years and ran roughly 100+ gallons of mixed gas using Opti-2 through 2 chain saws, limb saw, weed wacker and have not had a carbon or lubrication issue.   Both for lawn care and cut about 5 -6 cords of wood a year.  If it was shit I should of blown something up by now.  

I did buy a Ronco Pocket fisherman at a yard sale,   My sister has used it as cat toy thrower and retract device,  The cats love it.

DO NOT MIX IT AT WHAT THE OIL BOTTLE RECOMMENDS!!

Use what the manufacture of equipment has specified!

The manufacturer has set the carburetor jetting specifically for what oil gas ratio they want. Not for what the oil bottle says.
If it says 32:1 mix it at that unless you want to rejet the carb for something different like 50:1 etc.

If you do mix it different than what the manufacturer states you will most likely not damage the engine immediately, although that can happen also, but it will cause issues sooner than mixing at the proper ratio specified by the manufacturer.

I run Amsoil in my 9.9 outboard, I have ran it for the past 3 years and no problems YET



 

Stihl, Husqvarna, Echo, Shindaiwa, Redmax, etc.

It's not a believe thing, it's how I make my living.

I gave up on page 2.

That's not what I'm saying. If a mix oil bottle says mix with 1 gallon, you mix it with one gallon, and use it in any 2-cycle engine. this could mean anywhere from 40:1 - 100:1. Again, it depends on the oil.

Opti-2 packets mix 1 gallon of fuel. That equates to about 80:1.

You are correct.

Yes. Mix it to whatever ratio the oil is designed for.

FIFY

Read the oil bottles. Mix accordingly.

Ahh, good old Autozone mix oil.

That may have been the issue back in the day, but not now. I do probably 200-300 engine overhauls each year on commercial saws, trimmers, blowers, etc. I have also kept up to date on factory training from Stihl, Husqvarna, Redmax, Kohler, Kubota, plus a few others in the past 16 years. I can assure you that ALL of the major manufaturers use similar metals, clearances, tuning, carburetion, etc.

You could not be more wrong.

Whole lot of herpity derpity in here.  I guess a weedwhacker is pretty forgiving, but for more powerful 2-stroke if you start bouncing around ratios it causes damage.



The oil-fuel ratio controls the air-fuel mixture also, 32-1 will run lean of fuel compared to 50-1.  Also if you run a higher ratio of gas to oil, you increase the risk of washing the oil off the cylinder walls.



I used to have a Yamaha Banshee that needed to be rejetted if the temp changed 20-30 degrees.

After my neighbor's mower (4 cycle) seized up I asked to see what oil he had used.    Had been putting 2 cycle oil when it was calling for 30 weight.   Nice!!

Lets look at this another way. Imagine we are using other oils to mix fuel.

Would you use the same ratio using 90W as if you were using 5W20?

Not all 2-cycle mix oils are created equal. Not all 2-cycle oils share the same lubricity. This is why the mix ratio is determined my the type/brand/formulation of the oil.

Hopefully this will make it easy for all to understand.

I am getting confused James, are you saying that my Husqvarna saw calls for a 50:1 ratio but if I dump some 100:1 mixed gas I have extra of into my Husqvarna saw it is ok?



 

wow ...what a response. Anyway what started all thios is a ruined 2 cycle craftsman blower which , in its  manual, aid to use 40:1 mix.  all of my other yard euip. uses 32;1 mix. 6 or 7 yrs later , said blower is in the shop with ruined piston and ring..... the mech that worked on it (a trusted shooting buddy) asked about the fuel i was using. I told him the lawnboy mix which is 32;1  .  He promptly told me thats what killed the blower .... that in had to have 40:1 mix ....not 32;1 mix .   and that running the blower fat out for many many hrs for 6 or 7 yrs was enough to kill it.Further he warned about my new blower that uses a 50 :1 mix .... he told me not to use the lawnboy32;1 mix  ! Bassically different engines ..different tolerances  some can take slight changes in mixes ....others cannt.  I would rather be spending my money on toys that go bang ... so for now on this ol boy will have 3 or 4 different gas cans!   thanks for the response guys

Holy cow, I don't know where to start. This thread is full of stupid!





Two stroke-cycle engines ARE NOT all the same, neither are Two stroke oils.





Some manufacturers like Ryobi, Homelike, Stihl and others use STAMPED STEEL parts for major engine components like connecting rods in some of their engines. (Think Hesse)





Others like Red-Max, Echo & Shindaiwa used Forged con-rods, that in a lot of cases are copper coated. (Think LaRue or Spikes)
Likewise, besides Air Cooled and Water Cooled, not all Air Cooled oils are the same, regardless of  mix ratio. I could mix some piss in a bottle with canola oil and sell it as PAR's Super Duper Two Stroke Oil, and to mix at 100:1, and offer it on the EE if I wanted. The "oil" in the oil does not do much anymore than act as a carrier for the additive package mixed in, such as detergents, anti-seize, anti-scuff... Without using a standard you cannot accurately compare oils.





Since 1996 JASO oil standards are available for a Two stroke Oil mfg that makes oil for air cooled engines to meet. When the Oil is independently tested and the test data is submitted and reviewed by JASO, the oil will be given a registration number for the rating it passed.





There are three current levels... FB, FC, FD. FD rating is the highest rating, intended for High RPM High Performance Air Cooled Two Stroke-Cycle engines. That oil MFG will be given a registration number that needs to be put on the bottle as PROOF that the oil was tested and passed that standard. Just because a bottle says "meets JASO Fx" (and doesn't have a registration number) doesn't mean it was tested and passed. There is no proof and you are taking the oil MFG word for it.





Right now the best JASO FD rated oil your hard earned money can buy is the Shindaiwa Red Armor. The testing that I have done on this stuff, it is UN-freaking believable with it's detergent package to deal with the crappy fuels we see. It is a 50:1 oil (that is a requirement of the JASO standard) that should be run @ 50:1 in any air cooled two stroke-cycle engine. Remember, it is the additive package that is doing the work, it isn't straight 30 weight oil that you had to mix 16:1.





Going down the line in JASO FD rated oils would be ECHO, Husky, Shindaiwa One, Red-Max Alco No-Smoke 2 Stroke, off the top of my head. All these are JASO FD registered.
SO, if there are standards to measure the oil you make by, and you refuse to have it done, what are the reasons? I have heard them all, from "We know our oil is the best, we don't need an outside standard to tell us that" to "our oil is much better then the standard, we don't want to be lumped in with inferior oils"... Common sense tells us otherwise.
Read the owners manual for the product you have. Use the oil they recommend if it is still available. If you have multiple brands of products that state to use different oils, use the one with the highest JASO registration in them all. Using an oil that does NOT meet the requirements set by the MFG of that Engine WILL VOID the engine warranty for a lubrication failure. Do NOT go by what an oil manufacturer says about their oil. Don't use PAR's Super Duper oil...





ETA: not all Engines made by Stihl, Ryobi... use stamped components. The larger Stihl saws made in Germany are high quality still.




 

Lawnboy 32:1 oil would meet the defunct API-TC and JASO FA standards. So does straight 30wt Non Detergent 4 cycle oil.





ETA: for 15 + years Two Cycle engines have been required to meet EPA emission standards. That level dropped from 1996 to 2005 on a stepped basis from 300+ grams/hp/hr to 50 grams/hp/hr of total HC + NOx. That means they are much leaner and hotter. The oil quality is critical.
 

You are a Prince among men.

Only if you do not care about any warranty of your Husky saw for oil related failures... Husky wants a JASO FD oil run their equipment such as the Husky XP oil.



 

If the oil is designed for 100:1, yes.

Your post is misleading.  Stihl does not use stamped steel connecting rods in all their saws.  Equating Stihl with Hesse, Ryobi, or Homelite is just adding to the stupid in this thread.  

If folks want to ensure that their 2-stroke engines last a long time, the easiest way is to buy the oil from the equipment manufacturer, and mix it to the ratio stated by that manufacturer.  Use good, fresh, 89+ octane non-ethanol gas, if you can find it, and your 2-stroke will run for years.

This! I have run 32-1 in mineral oils like maxima and blenzoil and 100-1 with synthetic oils like redline and amsoil

Great info. If you have a bottle of Stihl Ultra that requires a 50:1 ratio, but your unit calls for 32:1 should you mix the Stihl Ultra oil at a 32:1?

Sorry, not my intent, ETA to clarify...





 

Yep, I have a dozen or so Stil saws torn down now, and none have a stamped rod.I've also never seen a copper coated engine cae.

My weed eater gets my old quad gas. So 32:1 klotz super techniplate for that sweet benol smell with high octane. Sometimes golden spectro if they are out of the klotz.

I would use the Stihl Ultra for drilling oil since it is not JASO FD registered, and use a high quality oil that does meet JASO FD at the 50:1 ratio as I mentioned.



 

But I would not mix the 50-1 with the 100-1 fuel. Empty or use up whats in there and then run the 100-1 stuff.

This thread is full of herp and derp.  You should put a poll up so I can cast my vote as such - Always follow manufacturers' recommended mix ratios for optimum performance and protection. (plagiarized from my bottle of 2 cycle oil).

You may have a point if we lived back in the 1960s still when you mixed one quart of 30 weight oil to 6 gallons of fuel to get 25:1.

Here are 5 different gallons of todays most popular outboard oil.



Any of these oil can be used to make a variety of ratios they mix exactly the same.









Please quit spreading your igronace on this thread, people are confused enough about this subject.  

Wow!

When I attended the Stihl Gold school we tested oils. We took new saws and ran a tank of mixed fuel through each. After that we ran straight gas. The saw that was broken in with the Stihl Ultra oil lasted 3 tanks, and the others diddn't make it through one.

Stihl Ultra is by far the best on the market.

Wow, I didn't know we were talking about outboard engines.

I'll chalk your post up to lack of reading comprehension.

Outboard, weed wacker, motorcycle. They are all 2-strokes and use similar oil.

Outboard oil is actually one of the best oils to use because they are designed to run hard and have a great detergent package.

Theses all also nice to have laying around.

Yeah those new ficht-ram injected, water cooled chainsaws are exactly like a modern outboard.

RIF....it says "That in a lot of cases are copper coated", the con-rod that is...



I don't have 210C handy for a pic so here is a Stihl trimmer engine...







By your logic on oil it is ok to use this because the bottle has on it that it is good for chainsaws...













It does not meet JASO FD by the way...





 

My head is now full of fuck. Here's what I've always done:



I buy the oil the mfr recommends, and I mix it at the ratio they tell me to. It works.



You all have fun with this academic "yeah, but what if..." discussion, because if I keep reading it, I'm going to end up throwing my 2 stroke equipment away.