Posted: 12/13/2012 6:59:53 PM EDT
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[Phase 1 build is complete and fully tested on the air.
Assembly #1: IC7000 and Microham USB III. I elected to put the USB III permanently together with the 7000 because there are just too many wires. Assembly #2: Rat-Shack 25A power supply. To do: swap out the USB cable with a cable assembly that ends in a USB jack so that it is connectorized and I don't have to stow a USB cable tail in the back. Also slightly reposition Microham so it doesn't interfere with removing IC7000 control head (hey, I planned ahead, just not far enough  )
Phase 2 will be another assembly that will contain an SG239 tuner with a PTC-1 tuner controller. That assembly will nominally lay on top of the radio unit. This one will be mechanically more complex in some ways than the others. I plan on using Phase 2 to travel between my home, BOL and in the truck once I get the truck set up with a power cable and an antenna. Phase 3 will be another assembly that will contain a battery and a Powergate and a Pelican case to hold it all, i.e full boat EMCOMM box. Front view. Note that all equipment is positioned so that the enclosure protects all knobs and switches. You can lay it right on its face and nothing touches. 
Rear view. Again, everything is positioned so that nothing sticks out. I oriented the all of the vent grids (I wish all the parts had more of that) to the rear, cut out two of the sections and put in a grommet. This allows me to route connections without coming outside of the protection of the enclosure. It should be possible to sit the entire assembly on its ass if I want to (like in a vehicle). The ground wire is connectorized to a Powerpole for quick attachment. All of the wires going to my big 993 tuner,which is rated at 200W and lets me run digital at 100W, will ultimately go to the SG239 module (which also is rated at 200W  ). The giant ferrite is on the USB cable to the Microham which is otherwise very sensitive to RFI without it.
Side view. I'm trying to think of the best way to connect the enclosures together. I don't want a solution that requires tools. Right now I'm thinking about a piece of 2" webbing around the entire mess and a cam-lock type buckle. Total size of both assemblies including all protrusions is 8.25 x 8.25 x 10.5 inches. I haven't weighed it yet. 
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That looks really nice!
What about a pair of draw latches on each side for joining them? |
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You know, that's a good idea. In fact that would be the number one answer and would really be kick ass. And I already thought of it But I'm not sure I want to pull the trigger on it.
I prefer the Southco rotary style ones. In fact I did a project at work that was almost exactly like this one and used two Southco's and some guide pins to keep each piece attached. So I'm completely familiar with the tolerance requirements for hole placement, etc. The problem is that a) they are relatively expensive and b) I don't want to do all the fabrication and assembly, particularly on something like that where tolerances are important. Basically I'm lazy. For instance, the radio didn't have to be in the exact position needed, just square to the enclosure, and you can always drag a hole to get it square on a home project because the washers will hide that
The other idea I had was to make some connecting straps/bars. There are two additional threaded holes on each side of each enclosure. I could probably make them out of some surplus 2 or 3U rack blank panels. While we are on the subject of improving my project, a couple of things I'm looking for: 1. The world's tiniest digital voltage meter. Maybe a 0.5" x 1"? There's a nice space for one next to the Microham. 2. A very thin speaker, perhaps 1" x 6". If I could find something like that I'd make it part of the SG239 assembly in Phase 2. Thanks! |
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Quoted:
nice! esp like the protected thru-holes....needs a little dash of green really make it stand out 
will link in Emcomm Box Thread! Thanks! I"m thinking of having my lovely XYL whip me up some handles in olive drab webbing instead of the ugly red. What are those Tac-Comm guys thinking? |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
nice! esp like the protected thru-holes....needs a little dash of green really make it stand out
will link in Emcomm Box Thread! Thanks! I"m thinking of having my lovely XYL whip me up some handles in olive drab webbing instead of the ugly red. What are those Tac-Comm guys thinking? I think the hive wants to see you paint the box green. |
AA, thank you for creating this thread 
This is very timely for me, because I have several Icom UHF IC-F2821 mobile rigs and power supplies that were purchased to tie into my emergency GMRS repeaters for family and friends to use. I've been vacillating about how to put together a simple and durable self-contained enclosure for a radio, power supply, and Powergate-along with a laminated cheat sheet for non-technical users for initial set up and basic operation. The solution you have come up with is elegant and perfect-I hope you don't mind me slavishly plagiarizing your setup for my own nefarious ends Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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What... no duracoat safety orange!? Seriously, thanks for the paint job idea. Anyone have a line on replacement handles for this? It's sew your own for handles. I actually want to create some sheet metal handles out of some aluminum .090" flat stock. Like rack handles but flatter. Attach them to front. Phase 4, I guess
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The parachute rigger in me (I'm a FAA certificated parachute rigger in my bag of tricks) says MIL-W-5625 1" tubular nylon webbing in olive drab or orange. But a dog leash would work just as well in this application. Use a hot knife. Do not cut. Fold the bitter end like the OEM handles. Punch in a hole and install a metal grommet. Grommets can be found at sewing supply stores.
What... no duracoat safety orange!? Seriously, thanks for the paint job idea. Anyone have a line on replacement handles for this? |
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Phase 2 build is complete and fully tested on the air! The shack is looking mighty neat and clean now!
Phase 2 adds Assembly #3 and a couple of minor improvements to Phase 1. See the OP for details on Phase 1. Assembly #3: SG-239 coupler with PTC-1 Icom-to-SGC tuner controller. The 239 is mounted up on stand-offs to provide a place for cable routing, interconnects and storage. There are some ferrites on the coax tail to 239 input. The PTC-1 is a fantastic product that is, sadly, no longer available. It makes any SGC coupler appear to the radio as if it is an Icom AH-4 thereby preserving all radio tuner automation. I built a custom banana jack fixture on the back of the 239 to allow for quick, tool-less connect/disconnect of ladder line or other wires type antennas. I was a little concerned about the proximity of the ladder line to the other cables however it has not proven to be any sort of problem. Improvements to Phase 1: I changed the USB cable to one that ends in a USB port (sourced from L-Com) and changed from the giant ferrite on the USB cable to a couple of smaller ones that fit better. I also remounted the Microham so that it doesn't interfere with removing the IC7000 front panel in case I ever want to remote it. I now have a Phase 2A planned. This will be fabrication of some cables for a deployment kit and a Plexiglas cover for the 239 assembly. Oh, and some OD webbing for the handles, too 
Phase 3 will be another assembly that will contain a battery and a Powergate. And now the obligatory pic's... 
Front view of the entire stack. The 239 is pushed back a little in the housing to allow space for a hinged Plexiglas cover to provide some protection of the exposed terminals. I'm planning that cover in Phase 2A. The controls and LEDs on the 239 are easily accessible. The paint on the front of the 239 housing makes it much sexier! 
Rear view. Note the passthrough holes, USB port, and ladderline connections. While I've engineered it so that nothing protrudes and it can sit on its ass with everything going through a passthrough, this is going to be a little challenging with a ladderline connection. However this probably won't be an issue since I'll likely only use it that way in a vehicle and in that case I'll be making a coax transition to the 239 output. 
A more detailed view of the interior. That Microham has a lot of cable to stow! 
And finally the side view. Yes, yes, I know, that horrible red! I swear I'm going to ask the XYL to sew me up some OD handles, really...
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AA, aren't you worried about your rig running hot, especially considering how hard you run it HF digital? I did think about that! I left a good 1/2 inch space above the rig (helps with the built-in speaker, too). It's hard to see with the angles I shot. There's also plenty of space around the sides, as you can see in the rear view. There are no vents on the bottom. And the rear heatsink is unobstructed as well. I have been keeping an eye on it, though. If necessary I can add a 12V fan in the back to move things along a little better, but so far so good. |
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Phase 2 build is complete and fully tested on the air! The shack is looking mighty neat and clean now! Phase 2 adds Assembly #3 and a couple of minor improvements to Phase 1. See the OP for details on Phase 1. Assembly #3: SG-239 coupler with PTC-1 Icom-to-SGC tuner controller. The 239 is mounted up on stand-offs to provide a place for cable routing, interconnects and storage. There are some ferrites on the coax tail to 239 input. The PTC-1 is a fantastic product that is, sadly, no longer available. It makes any SGC coupler appear to the radio as if it is an Icom AH-4 thereby preserving all radio tuner automation. I built a custom banana jack fixture on the back of the 239 to allow for quick, tool-less connect/disconnect of ladder line or other wires type antennas. I was a little concerned about the proximity of the ladder line to the other cables however it has not proven to be any sort of problem. Improvements to Phase 1: I changed the USB cable to one that ends in a USB port (sourced from L-Com) and changed from the giant ferrite on the USB cable to a couple of smaller ones that fit better. I also remounted the Microham so that it doesn't interfere with removing the IC7000 front panel in case I ever want to remote it. I now have a Phase 2A planned. This will be fabrication of some cables for a deployment kit and a Plexiglas cover for the 239 assembly. Oh, and some OD webbing for the handles, too
Phase 3 will be another assembly that will contain a battery and a Powergate. And now the obligatory pic's...
Front view of the entire stack. The 239 is pushed back a little in the housing to allow space for a hinged Plexiglas cover to provide some protection of the exposed terminals. I'm planning that cover in Phase 2A. The controls and LEDs on the 239 are easily accessible. The paint on the front of the 239 housing makes it much sexier! http://home.comcast.net/~rocketscienceracing/Phase2Front.jpg Rear view. Note the passthrough holes, USB port, and ladderline connections. While I've engineered it so that nothing protrudes and it can sit on its ass with everything going through a passthrough, this is going to be a little challenging with a ladderline connection. However this probably won't be an issue since I'll likely only use it that way in a vehicle and in that case I'll be making a coax transition to the 239 output. http://home.comcast.net/~rocketscienceracing/Phase2Rear.jpg A more detailed view of the interior. That Microham has a lot of cable to stow! http://home.comcast.net/~rocketscienceracing/Phase2Detail.jpg And finally the side view. Yes, yes, I know, that horrible red! I swear I'm going to ask the XYL to sew me up some OD handles, really...
http://home.comcast.net/~rocketscienceracing/Phase2Side.jpg Alright man, been away for a while and come back to find the thread full of win. I send you all of the documents I downloaded on the PTC-1, I figured the guy was getting out of the business and downloaded all of the info in case his site went down, and it did. It should not be too complicated, although I had some problems with mine, but I have since upgraded to a DSO so I could probably figure it out. Looks very nice! |