|
Originally Posted By Ziess:
Got the camera in its final position, you can now view my marina live 24/7 :) Live Webcam That is nicely done. 
|
-----BEGIN GEEK CODE BLOCK-----
Version: 3.1.2
GMD d-- a+ C++ L++ w M e++++
PS--- PE++ Y++ t+ R- !tv b++++ D---
h---- A++ r+++ y+ z++++ k++ F+++/F4
------END GEEK CODE BLOCK------
Version: 3.1.2
GMD d-- a+ C++ L++ w M e++++
PS--- PE++ Y++ t+ R- !tv b++++ D---
h---- A++ r+++ y+ z++++ k++ F+++/F4
------END GEEK CODE BLOCK------
|
TGM,
I just read through the entire thread: the wealth of knowledge you've put together is amazing. Thank you for taking the time to document and share! I have a few questions, assuming a 4-6 IP and 2-4 Analogue (through camera servers) setup using PoE, external IR illuminators and external PIR sensors: 1: Can you expect any interference (from or on) an amateur radio station? If yes, are there ways to easily combat it, such as chokes? 2: I noticed that (if it's not PoE) most of this stuff is 12V DC... most ham gear is 12-13.8V DC... is there any way to share a centralized power supply and battery backup? Thanks for any info! -.PPTRanger |
|
Originally Posted By PowerPointRanger:
TGM, I just read through the entire thread: the wealth of knowledge you've put together is amazing. Thank you for taking the time to document and share! I have a few questions, assuming a 4-6 IP and 2-4 Analogue (through camera servers) setup using PoE, external IR illuminators and external PIR sensors: 1: Can you expect any interference (from or on) an amateur radio station? If yes, are there ways to easily combat it, such as chokes? 2: I noticed that (if it's not PoE) most of this stuff is 12V DC... most ham gear is 12-13.8V DC... is there any way to share a centralized power supply and battery backup? Thanks for any info! -.PPTRanger Taking your questions in order: 1. Probably would depend on what band you're operating in. I'm a HAM myself, and have never noticed any problem. Then again, I don't get up into HF much... mostly down in VHF/UHF range. 2. Yes... a centralized 12VDC PSU could probably run all of your equipment... just ensure it has enough amperage (you may have to combine channels if you're using a CCTV PSU to power a ham rig... you'll blow those little 1A fuses if you don't). You could also centralize a UPS. |
-----BEGIN GEEK CODE BLOCK-----
Version: 3.1.2
GMD d-- a+ C++ L++ w M e++++
PS--- PE++ Y++ t+ R- !tv b++++ D---
h---- A++ r+++ y+ z++++ k++ F+++/F4
------END GEEK CODE BLOCK------
Version: 3.1.2
GMD d-- a+ C++ L++ w M e++++
PS--- PE++ Y++ t+ R- !tv b++++ D---
h---- A++ r+++ y+ z++++ k++ F+++/F4
------END GEEK CODE BLOCK------
|
The Gray Man:
Sorry if this has been answered already but the 81 (I red the first few pages) pages is kind of daunting and I am limited on time right now. Last night we (2-3 houses on my block) got egged. Now over the past 3 months someone has spray painted (tagged) ~ 15 cars and some fences. The cops have no leads and no one has any idea who it is. I am getting sick of this crap and would like to set up a security system to catch them. I would like to do it as inexpensive as possible (money is tight right now) but I would like it to work. my house is forty feet long and shaped like a rectangle (old 1970's HUD home). We are set up on a grid with the other houses if that matters. I think I could get the coverage with 2-3 cameras. i would even settle for at least one. What do you recommend? Thanks |
|
Need some help selecting a IR illuminator, see the photos below.
Recently purchase this: 
http://www.amazon.com/CMVision-IR30-WideAngle-IR-Illuminator/dp/B001P2E4U4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1370053047&sr=8-2&keywords=IR+Illuminator Here are some photos: 
*********************************************** 
The quality of photos suck, because they were screen shots taken over the network. These are Zmodo cameras, not trying to excuse their performance (they suck) but they do look better straight off the DVR...lets not make this about the performance of the cameras, rather the IR illumination (I plan to upgrade the cams). Not bad for the price, but obviously this thing will not cut it for the yard, does ok on the porch, but sucks aimed into the yard. Question is, what IR Illuminator will fix the obvious problem without breaking the bank? |
|
Originally Posted By Blackoperations:
Need some help selecting a IR illuminator, see the photos below. Recently purchase this: http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51qYQvm9kCL._SX385_.jpg http://www.amazon.com/CMVision-IR30-WideAngle-IR-Illuminator/dp/B001P2E4U4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1370053047&sr=8-2&keywords=IR+Illuminator Here are some photos: http://i626.photobucket.com/albums/tt342/sellmytires/IR-OFF_zps00b8bacb.jpg http://i626.photobucket.com/albums/tt342/sellmytires/IR-ON_zps3bf7def4.jpg *********************************************** http://i626.photobucket.com/albums/tt342/sellmytires/IR-OFF-DOOR_zps5a613d16.jpg http://i626.photobucket.com/albums/tt342/sellmytires/IR-ON-DOOR_zpsdf65bd33.jpg The quality of photos suck, because they were screen shots taken over the network. These are Zmodo cameras, not trying to excuse their performance (they suck) but they do look better straight off the DVR...lets not make this about the performance of the cameras, rather the IR illumination (I plan to upgrade the cams). Not bad for the price, but obviously this thing will not cut it for the yard, does ok on the porch, but sucks aimed into the yard. Question is, what IR Illuminator will fix the obvious problem without breaking the bank? You need something with more IR output for the yard... it's simply a question of insufficient power, and a narrow beam. I have a couple of those supercircuits puck illuminators, and it would be like attempting to illuminate your whole front yard with a surefire. You get one lit area, and the rest is dark. You want something wide-angle, and something that puts out more light. Something like this would probably do a better job. |
-----BEGIN GEEK CODE BLOCK-----
Version: 3.1.2
GMD d-- a+ C++ L++ w M e++++
PS--- PE++ Y++ t+ R- !tv b++++ D---
h---- A++ r+++ y+ z++++ k++ F+++/F4
------END GEEK CODE BLOCK------
Version: 3.1.2
GMD d-- a+ C++ L++ w M e++++
PS--- PE++ Y++ t+ R- !tv b++++ D---
h---- A++ r+++ y+ z++++ k++ F+++/F4
------END GEEK CODE BLOCK------
|
You need something with more IR output for the yard... it's simply a question of insufficient power, and a narrow beam. I have a couple of those supercircuits puck illuminators, and it would be like attempting to illuminate your whole front yard with a surefire. You get one lit area, and the rest is dark. You want something wide-angle, and something that puts out more light. Something like this would probably do a better job. What are your thoughts on this? 
http://www.amazon.com/CMVision-IR200-Outdoor-400-500ft-Illuminator-Adapter/dp/B004V9Z7ZY/ref=cm_cmu_pg__header |
|
Originally Posted By Blackoperations:
You need something with more IR output for the yard... it's simply a question of insufficient power, and a narrow beam. I have a couple of those supercircuits puck illuminators, and it would be like attempting to illuminate your whole front yard with a surefire. You get one lit area, and the rest is dark. You want something wide-angle, and something that puts out more light. Something like this would probably do a better job. What are your thoughts on this? http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/71LNNeTtPdL._SX300_.jpg http://www.amazon.com/CMVision-IR200-Outdoor-400-500ft-Illuminator-Adapter/dp/B004V9Z7ZY/ref=cm_cmu_pg__header Don't do that. You're going to have the same problem. That illuminator will spotlight badly, and even if you aim it at a distant target, your camera can't see jack 200+ feet away. You want dispersed, even illumination. You want a floodlight... not a spotlight. ETA: here are two images to illustrate the point 
Which would you rather have? |
-----BEGIN GEEK CODE BLOCK-----
Version: 3.1.2
GMD d-- a+ C++ L++ w M e++++
PS--- PE++ Y++ t+ R- !tv b++++ D---
h---- A++ r+++ y+ z++++ k++ F+++/F4
------END GEEK CODE BLOCK------
Version: 3.1.2
GMD d-- a+ C++ L++ w M e++++
PS--- PE++ Y++ t+ R- !tv b++++ D---
h---- A++ r+++ y+ z++++ k++ F+++/F4
------END GEEK CODE BLOCK------
|
Originally Posted By TheGrayMan:
Originally Posted By Blackoperations:
You need something with more IR output for the yard... it's simply a question of insufficient power, and a narrow beam. I have a couple of those supercircuits puck illuminators, and it would be like attempting to illuminate your whole front yard with a surefire. You get one lit area, and the rest is dark. You want something wide-angle, and something that puts out more light. Something like this would probably do a better job. What are your thoughts on this? http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/71LNNeTtPdL._SX300_.jpg http://www.amazon.com/CMVision-IR200-Outdoor-400-500ft-Illuminator-Adapter/dp/B004V9Z7ZY/ref=cm_cmu_pg__header Don't do that. You're going to have the same problem. That illuminator will spotlight badly, and even if you aim it at a distant target, your camera can't see jack 200+ feet away. You want dispersed, even illumination. You want a floodlight... not a spotlight. ETA: here are two images to illustrate the point http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TGrayman/westside.jpg http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TGrayman/utilities2.jpg Which would you rather have? what is the model of that one? Looks great. |
|
Originally Posted By Blackoperations:
Originally Posted By TheGrayMan:
Originally Posted By Blackoperations:
You need something with more IR output for the yard... it's simply a question of insufficient power, and a narrow beam. I have a couple of those supercircuits puck illuminators, and it would be like attempting to illuminate your whole front yard with a surefire. You get one lit area, and the rest is dark. You want something wide-angle, and something that puts out more light. Something like this would probably do a better job. What are your thoughts on this? http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/71LNNeTtPdL._SX300_.jpg http://www.amazon.com/CMVision-IR200-Outdoor-400-500ft-Illuminator-Adapter/dp/B004V9Z7ZY/ref=cm_cmu_pg__header Don't do that. You're going to have the same problem. That illuminator will spotlight badly, and even if you aim it at a distant target, your camera can't see jack 200+ feet away. You want dispersed, even illumination. You want a floodlight... not a spotlight. ETA: here are two images to illustrate the point http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TGrayman/westside.jpg http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TGrayman/utilities2.jpg Which would you rather have? what is the model of that one? Looks great. That's one I don't really recommend any more (it had an unacceptable failure rate)... I was just using it to illustrate the concept. 
Here's what happened when those failed... note the two on the right? See how the IR element is brown and burnt compared to the illuminator on the left? Yeah... avoid those. 
I've gone to using dome illuminators... they seem to provide a much more even pool of light, without the hot-spotting you get with narrow-beam sources... and the longevity has proven to be much better: 
|
-----BEGIN GEEK CODE BLOCK-----
Version: 3.1.2
GMD d-- a+ C++ L++ w M e++++
PS--- PE++ Y++ t+ R- !tv b++++ D---
h---- A++ r+++ y+ z++++ k++ F+++/F4
------END GEEK CODE BLOCK------
Version: 3.1.2
GMD d-- a+ C++ L++ w M e++++
PS--- PE++ Y++ t+ R- !tv b++++ D---
h---- A++ r+++ y+ z++++ k++ F+++/F4
------END GEEK CODE BLOCK------
|
A decent primer on IP cameras, and how to set them up.
Six videos... well worth it if you're not already a geek. Link |
-----BEGIN GEEK CODE BLOCK-----
Version: 3.1.2
GMD d-- a+ C++ L++ w M e++++
PS--- PE++ Y++ t+ R- !tv b++++ D---
h---- A++ r+++ y+ z++++ k++ F+++/F4
------END GEEK CODE BLOCK------
Version: 3.1.2
GMD d-- a+ C++ L++ w M e++++
PS--- PE++ Y++ t+ R- !tv b++++ D---
h---- A++ r+++ y+ z++++ k++ F+++/F4
------END GEEK CODE BLOCK------
|
Here's something I'm trialing... a new, wide-angle IR panel illuminator. This one is made by Axton Tech. The illuminators themselves are designed/manufactured in Salt Lake City, and I like to keep as much business on this side of the pond as possible, given a reasonable price-point and performance. These are available at a more-reasonable price-point than some of the higher-end Axis/Raymax/Raytec/Rainbow/Extreme stuff, so I thought I'd pick one up to see how it works.
I've also run into the problem of my favored "dome" illuminators becoming both more-expensive, and harder to find... and I'm only willing to pay so much for Chinese stuff. If I can get American-built/made, and the price isn't 10x what I'm paying for Chicom stuff, I'm willing to give it a shot. This one runs about $300, which is several hundred dollars cheaper than the Raymax/Axis models. The box: 
The device: 
The connections... note the various colored wires. Depending on which wires you jumper together (with that skinny black wire on the right/lower side), you can get constant-on, day/night switching, and camera-triggered switching. The black-and-white wires are strictly for power. 
Here is what we're replacing. This is one of the dome illuminators that I've been unable to find for about a year. They work well, but get a bit warm... note the central brown discoloration on the white disc. I've had one fail due to capacitor plague, but other than that (and the occasional burnt-out LED), these have served me well for several years. Not bad for $40-50 each. By way of comparison, the Axton Tech illuminators boast a LIFETIME warranty, with advance replacement. 
And let's face it... the Axton Tech illuminators are lower-profile, and look cooler. The general build quality is also head-and-shoulders above the Chicom illuminator. 
Here it is energized. The camera sees the IR easily... and there are obviously three high-powered LEDs behind that faceplate. I'm left wondering whether those three LEDs will be able to throw out sufficient light to fulfill Axton Tech's range claim of 18 meters. Also, the harder you drive a few LEDs, the shorter their lifespan (in general). Hopefully we won't need that extended warranty. 
The dome was still functional, so it was moved in place of this old illuminator. This is a supercircuits puck that has been outdoors for several years. It's rusted, and corroded, but still weatherproof (as the casing claims)... and still works. I included an extra Supercircuits illuminator that's been stored in a drawer in my toolbox... identical model. Other than weathering, they both still work. Taiwan manufacture. 
I will post comparison night-shots when I can grab some screenshots this coming week. |
-----BEGIN GEEK CODE BLOCK-----
Version: 3.1.2
GMD d-- a+ C++ L++ w M e++++
PS--- PE++ Y++ t+ R- !tv b++++ D---
h---- A++ r+++ y+ z++++ k++ F+++/F4
------END GEEK CODE BLOCK------
Version: 3.1.2
GMD d-- a+ C++ L++ w M e++++
PS--- PE++ Y++ t+ R- !tv b++++ D---
h---- A++ r+++ y+ z++++ k++ F+++/F4
------END GEEK CODE BLOCK------
|
Any chance of a recommendation for a camera setup as a baby monitor that can be viewed on an iPhone?
The dedicated "video baby monitors" are pretty expensive, usually ~$200+, and the handheld video units are generally pretty tiny. I can't imagine the video quality is that great, either. Heck I might have already asked this and can't remember...I apologize in advance if this has already been discussed. 
|
Fear became the ultimate tool of this government...
|
Originally Posted By SparticleBrane:
Any chance of a recommendation for a camera setup as a baby monitor that can be viewed on an iPhone? The dedicated "video baby monitors" are pretty expensive, usually ~$200+, and the handheld video units are generally pretty tiny. I can't imagine the video quality is that great, either. Heck I might have already asked this and can't remember...I apologize in advance if this has already been discussed. Just get a Foscam, and the app that goes to the iphone. Or you can use IP Cam Viewer... I use the latter to control a wireless Foscam, and it works great over a wireless LAN. |
-----BEGIN GEEK CODE BLOCK-----
Version: 3.1.2
GMD d-- a+ C++ L++ w M e++++
PS--- PE++ Y++ t+ R- !tv b++++ D---
h---- A++ r+++ y+ z++++ k++ F+++/F4
------END GEEK CODE BLOCK------
Version: 3.1.2
GMD d-- a+ C++ L++ w M e++++
PS--- PE++ Y++ t+ R- !tv b++++ D---
h---- A++ r+++ y+ z++++ k++ F+++/F4
------END GEEK CODE BLOCK------
|
Originally Posted By TheGrayMan:
Originally Posted By SparticleBrane:
Any chance of a recommendation for a camera setup as a baby monitor that can be viewed on an iPhone? The dedicated "video baby monitors" are pretty expensive, usually ~$200+, and the handheld video units are generally pretty tiny. I can't imagine the video quality is that great, either. Heck I might have already asked this and can't remember...I apologize in advance if this has already been discussed. Just get a Foscam, and the app that goes to the iphone. Or you can use IP Cam Viewer... I use the latter to control a wireless Foscam, and it works great over a wireless LAN. Looks great!! Thanks. I figured something that wasn't emblazoned with "baby" all over it would likely be cheaper and possibly higher quality.
|
Fear became the ultimate tool of this government...
-----BEGIN GEEK CODE BLOCK-----
Version: 3.1.2
GMD d-- a+ C++ L++ w M e++++
PS--- PE++ Y++ t+ R- !tv b++++ D---
h---- A++ r+++ y+ z++++ k++ F+++/F4
------END GEEK CODE BLOCK------
Version: 3.1.2
GMD d-- a+ C++ L++ w M e++++
PS--- PE++ Y++ t+ R- !tv b++++ D---
h---- A++ r+++ y+ z++++ k++ F+++/F4
------END GEEK CODE BLOCK------
More illuminators.
Here's another dome illuminator that's going to be replaced: 
Here's why... some of the LEDs have burnt out. 
Replaced with one of the Axton Tech illuminators: 
|
-----BEGIN GEEK CODE BLOCK-----
Version: 3.1.2
GMD d-- a+ C++ L++ w M e++++
PS--- PE++ Y++ t+ R- !tv b++++ D---
h---- A++ r+++ y+ z++++ k++ F+++/F4
------END GEEK CODE BLOCK------
Version: 3.1.2
GMD d-- a+ C++ L++ w M e++++
PS--- PE++ Y++ t+ R- !tv b++++ D---
h---- A++ r+++ y+ z++++ k++ F+++/F4
------END GEEK CODE BLOCK------
|
Originally Posted By TheGrayMan: More illuminators. http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TGrayman/Axton%20IR%20illuminator/DSCN1877_zpsd1204c80.jpg Here's another dome illuminator that's going to be replaced: http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TGrayman/Axton%20IR%20illuminator/DSCN1878_zpsce47c6e8.jpg Here's why... some of the LEDs have burnt out. http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TGrayman/Axton%20IR%20illuminator/DSCN1879_zps57d9eeaa.jpg Replaced with one of the Axton Tech illuminators: http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TGrayman/Axton%20IR%20illuminator/DSCN1881_zpsbfc81727.jpg http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg286/TGrayman/Axton%20IR%20illuminator/DSCN1882_zps05488e4e.jpg I need to get off my ass and install my illuminators. |
molon labé
-If you take me too seriously, you're doing it wrong
-Going HOT!!! Somebody get hands on the Doc!!!
-If you take me too seriously, you're doing it wrong
-Going HOT!!! Somebody get hands on the Doc!!!
... daylight for thee, but not for them.
-----BEGIN GEEK CODE BLOCK-----
Version: 3.1.2
GMD d-- a+ C++ L++ w M e++++
PS--- PE++ Y++ t+ R- !tv b++++ D---
h---- A++ r+++ y+ z++++ k++ F+++/F4
------END GEEK CODE BLOCK------
Version: 3.1.2
GMD d-- a+ C++ L++ w M e++++
PS--- PE++ Y++ t+ R- !tv b++++ D---
h---- A++ r+++ y+ z++++ k++ F+++/F4
------END GEEK CODE BLOCK------
|
New PSU I presume?
My office just moved to a new building, and I noticed we have a few cameras now. A bunch of expensive (my definition of expensive, at least -- looks like they're ~$500 each) Panasonic IP dome cameras. I'll have to talk to the IT guy about them and see what he can tell me. |
Fear became the ultimate tool of this government...
|
Originally Posted By SparticleBrane:
New PSU I presume? My office just moved to a new building, and I noticed we have a few cameras now. A bunch of expensive (my definition of expensive, at least -- looks like they're ~$500 each) Panasonic IP dome cameras. I'll have to talk to the IT guy about them and see what he can tell me. The Panasonic IP domes can run closer to a grand each. Great cameras... but not cheap. |
-----BEGIN GEEK CODE BLOCK-----
Version: 3.1.2
GMD d-- a+ C++ L++ w M e++++
PS--- PE++ Y++ t+ R- !tv b++++ D---
h---- A++ r+++ y+ z++++ k++ F+++/F4
------END GEEK CODE BLOCK------
Version: 3.1.2
GMD d-- a+ C++ L++ w M e++++
PS--- PE++ Y++ t+ R- !tv b++++ D---
h---- A++ r+++ y+ z++++ k++ F+++/F4
------END GEEK CODE BLOCK------
|
Originally Posted By TheGrayMan:
Originally Posted By SparticleBrane:
New PSU I presume? My office just moved to a new building, and I noticed we have a few cameras now. A bunch of expensive (my definition of expensive, at least -- looks like they're ~$500 each) Panasonic IP dome cameras. I'll have to talk to the IT guy about them and see what he can tell me. The Panasonic IP domes can run closer to a grand each. Great cameras... but not cheap. Panasonic WV-SW155 is the model number. Looking around online these are supposed to be really wide angle. They're pointed down a few hallways. BTW I got that Foscam you recommended. Works great so far. Thanks!
|
Fear became the ultimate tool of this government...
I've been meaning to share my setup for some time and I decided to do it now since a recent power outage here highlighted the need for some of the lighting solutions that TheGrayMan talks about so frequently. I'll also be adding an Axis P3364-VE camera and reworking some of the setup soon so I don't have any security concerns about sharing my coverage, etc. 
After a few years of X10 junk, and then many more years of analog cameras with several DVR units I decided to slowly transition to IP cameras. The first one I bought was an Axis P3346-VE and faced it down my driveway from the peak of the garage. Awesome during the day but loses a lot at night and just sucks on motion in low light. The processing in the camera is just too slow. Then I added an Axis P3384-VE on the garage and a Vivotek FD8134V on the back of the house. I needed a small camera there because of mounting space requirements. All the cameras are streaming 1280x800 to 1280x1024 at 20 to 30 FPS to a 6 core AMD PC running Milestone Xprotect Essential. A 4-core AMD could not handle all that video with Milestone... All these photos are taken from Milestone and they look even better straight from the camera. Here's the cameras this afternoon. Lighting conditions change a lot during the course of the day but this is how it is at the moment. Axis P3384-VE facing North down the drive: 
Axis P3346-VE facing Northwest: 
Vivotek FD8134V facing Southeast: See how badly the lighter areas are washed out by the Sun? 
Axis P3384-VE at 0122 AM with the yard lights that are normally on. This camera has their LightFinder technology and is still in color mode. Areas towards the street that were completely dark with the P3346 are visible with this camera. 
P3346-VE at same time: Still in color mode because of the yard light. 
FD8134V at the same time with IR illumination on: 
Seconds after the last pictures were taken the power went out for the entire neighborhood. My system kept running fine on backup power and here is what happened with the cameras. P3384-VE quick changes to IR mode but can't see much because of super low light. Pretty much worthless even with LightFinder. 
P3346-VE took a full 10 seconds to switch out the mechanical IR filter and you can hear it click on the recording from the camera's built-in mic. It was completely blind until the cutover. It would be 100% worthless but it's getting IR light from the Vivotek. 
FD8134V at the same time. It didn't have to switch over since it was already in IR mode. 
|
Not everything that counts can be counted, and not everything that can be counted counts. - Albert Einstein
|
Originally Posted By 67Roadster:
Are there any decent wireless security camera systems? What would you consider "good?" You can put the occasional wireless camera or two on your home wifi... but any more than that, and you start to run into bandwidth problems. Conventional wifi just doesn't have enough pipe to carry too many streams... even wireless "N" |
-----BEGIN GEEK CODE BLOCK-----
Version: 3.1.2
GMD d-- a+ C++ L++ w M e++++
PS--- PE++ Y++ t+ R- !tv b++++ D---
h---- A++ r+++ y+ z++++ k++ F+++/F4
------END GEEK CODE BLOCK------
Version: 3.1.2
GMD d-- a+ C++ L++ w M e++++
PS--- PE++ Y++ t+ R- !tv b++++ D---
h---- A++ r+++ y+ z++++ k++ F+++/F4
------END GEEK CODE BLOCK------
|
Originally Posted By TheGrayMan:
Originally Posted By SparticleBrane:
Any chance of a recommendation for a camera setup as a baby monitor that can be viewed on an iPhone? The dedicated "video baby monitors" are pretty expensive, usually ~$200+, and the handheld video units are generally pretty tiny. I can't imagine the video quality is that great, either. Heck I might have already asked this and can't remember...I apologize in advance if this has already been discussed. Just get a Foscam, and the app that goes to the iphone. Or you can use IP Cam Viewer... I use the latter to control a wireless Foscam, and it works great over a wireless LAN. I there any particular Foscam model that you recommend for a wireless baby monitor? |
|
Originally Posted By jake-cutter:
Originally Posted By TheGrayMan:
Originally Posted By SparticleBrane:
Any chance of a recommendation for a camera setup as a baby monitor that can be viewed on an iPhone? The dedicated "video baby monitors" are pretty expensive, usually ~$200+, and the handheld video units are generally pretty tiny. I can't imagine the video quality is that great, either. Heck I might have already asked this and can't remember...I apologize in advance if this has already been discussed. Just get a Foscam, and the app that goes to the iphone. Or you can use IP Cam Viewer... I use the latter to control a wireless Foscam, and it works great over a wireless LAN. I there any particular Foscam model that you recommend for a wireless baby monitor? I'm using this one in the house, and I recommended the same to a friend whose wife just had a baby. It's worked well for them, and they can access it with their Ipad over their home wifi. Saves having to get up and walk to the baby's room when you hear her making noise at night. Great peace of mind. |
-----BEGIN GEEK CODE BLOCK-----
Version: 3.1.2
GMD d-- a+ C++ L++ w M e++++
PS--- PE++ Y++ t+ R- !tv b++++ D---
h---- A++ r+++ y+ z++++ k++ F+++/F4
------END GEEK CODE BLOCK------
Version: 3.1.2
GMD d-- a+ C++ L++ w M e++++
PS--- PE++ Y++ t+ R- !tv b++++ D---
h---- A++ r+++ y+ z++++ k++ F+++/F4
------END GEEK CODE BLOCK------
|
Originally Posted By TheGrayMan:
I'm using this one in the house, and I recommended the same to a friend whose wife just had a baby. It's worked well for them, and they can access it with their Ipad over their home wifi. Saves having to get up and walk to the baby's room when you hear her making noise at night. Great peace of mind. I just picked up 2 of those and they are easy to set up and work well. |
Mach
“Necessity is the plea for every infringement of human freedom. It is argument of tyrants. It is the creed of slaves.”
William Pitt, 1783:
NRA Life Member
NRA Cerified Instructor
“Necessity is the plea for every infringement of human freedom. It is argument of tyrants. It is the creed of slaves.”
William Pitt, 1783:
NRA Life Member
NRA Cerified Instructor
|
Originally Posted By 67Roadster:
Has anyone had success using ethernet through your electric outlets for their security cams? Last I looked that has a 10 mb/s bandwidth. Wifi is much better and ethernet is 100 mb/s and gigabit is 1000 mb/s |
Mach
“Necessity is the plea for every infringement of human freedom. It is argument of tyrants. It is the creed of slaves.”
William Pitt, 1783:
NRA Life Member
NRA Cerified Instructor
“Necessity is the plea for every infringement of human freedom. It is argument of tyrants. It is the creed of slaves.”
William Pitt, 1783:
NRA Life Member
NRA Cerified Instructor
|
Originally Posted By Mach:
Last I looked that has a 10 mb/s bandwidth. Wifi is much better and ethernet is 100 mb/s and gigabit is 1000 mb/s Originally Posted By Mach:
Originally Posted By 67Roadster:
Has anyone had success using ethernet through your electric outlets for their security cams? Last I looked that has a 10 mb/s bandwidth. Wifi is much better and ethernet is 100 mb/s and gigabit is 1000 mb/s +1 You can get maybe one decent camera on that electric-outlet broadband. Not enough pipe. |
-----BEGIN GEEK CODE BLOCK-----
Version: 3.1.2
GMD d-- a+ C++ L++ w M e++++
PS--- PE++ Y++ t+ R- !tv b++++ D---
h---- A++ r+++ y+ z++++ k++ F+++/F4
------END GEEK CODE BLOCK------
Version: 3.1.2
GMD d-- a+ C++ L++ w M e++++
PS--- PE++ Y++ t+ R- !tv b++++ D---
h---- A++ r+++ y+ z++++ k++ F+++/F4
------END GEEK CODE BLOCK------
Commandant of His Majesty's Flying Monkey Brigades
Joined:
Jan 2001
Posts:
2175
EE: 100% (15)
FL, USA
|
I apologize ahead of time for not having read through the 82 previous pages. I read through some of the first few and I promise I'll go back and read more, but I just wanted to start getting some ideas for a system for my home.
Here's what I need: - IP based system - Single camera initially, possibility to add up to 3 more later as funds allow - First camera is to cover the driveway and vehicles in the driveway. Driveway is about 50' long and 16' wide. Camera could be mounted near the top of the garage which is at the end of the driveway. - Driveway is covered by a set of motion-activated lights, one on either side of the garage door. - Camera resolution good enough to identify faces in daylight or when lit up by the driveway lights. I have two desktop computers at my disposal already but don't know how "intensive" the video recording software would be. One computer is my "primary" which I used for almost everything (i5-2500k quad processer, 8gb of ram, Win7) and one is a very low-tech system that was designed as some sort of low-cost "green" PC that originally was supposed to run Linux, but now runs WinXP. Could either one handle the recording? Could the "primary" handle it while doing other tasks? or would I need another PC? |
"I awaken each day in a mood not of happiness or confidence, but in one of barely-concealed irritation and foreboding at what foolishness, knavery and hokum I’m about to see in the world about me." - KDT
|
If you get cameras, maybe you can post video/interview gold like this:
Woman repeatedly pooping in man's yard... caught on tape 
ETA: 
|
-----BEGIN GEEK CODE BLOCK-----
Version: 3.1.2
GMD d-- a+ C++ L++ w M e++++
PS--- PE++ Y++ t+ R- !tv b++++ D---
h---- A++ r+++ y+ z++++ k++ F+++/F4
------END GEEK CODE BLOCK------
Version: 3.1.2
GMD d-- a+ C++ L++ w M e++++
PS--- PE++ Y++ t+ R- !tv b++++ D---
h---- A++ r+++ y+ z++++ k++ F+++/F4
------END GEEK CODE BLOCK------
|
Looking for a camera suggestion. It gets hard to keep it all straight when going through the spec sheets and reviews all day Need a camera to watch the back yard, will be mounted outside of a second floor window so needs to be weatherproof and needs to be PoE and have a wide angle lens(90 degrees horizontal should be enough, 120 would be freaking awesome). The higher the resolution the better. $300 price point would be handy, the nicer cameras look like fun but are a stretch for my budget. Needing a separate IR illuminator is OK. Range to target viewing area is about 20 feet. I have a D-Link DCS-7010 out front that is working great, says it's a 73.5 degree horizontal FOV but still feels a bit narrow to me sometimes, it would be enough to watch the garage door but I'd like to be able to see more of the yard and patio without needing a second camera. I might get another one to watch the side of the house. So, anyone have any ideas on a wide-angle camera that won't bust the bank? |
I aim to misbehave.
|
The cheapest Axis outdoor dome camera will be close to $500.
Acti has some bargain-level domes with a FOV about 85-degrees wide, and you can get those for under $300... but going with a true panoramic camera from the same company will put you out almost $900. Here's three megapixels, outdoor dome, PoE... and you can get them for your price range: Link |
-----BEGIN GEEK CODE BLOCK-----
Version: 3.1.2
GMD d-- a+ C++ L++ w M e++++
PS--- PE++ Y++ t+ R- !tv b++++ D---
h---- A++ r+++ y+ z++++ k++ F+++/F4
------END GEEK CODE BLOCK------
Version: 3.1.2
GMD d-- a+ C++ L++ w M e++++
PS--- PE++ Y++ t+ R- !tv b++++ D---
h---- A++ r+++ y+ z++++ k++ F+++/F4
------END GEEK CODE BLOCK------
|
Originally Posted By redjeepxj:
I had a TCM-7411 that the POE stopped working. I believe it went to CA for repair. Originally Posted By redjeepxj:
Originally Posted By bigshooter81:
My acti 7411 just took a shit. 
Gonna try and send it in for repair. ...... in fing Thailand  I had a TCM-7411 that the POE stopped working. I believe it went to CA for repair. Yep, it just won't power up.... completely dead. What did it cost you to repair? |
|
Originally Posted By redjeepxj:
Did you try powering up via the A/C adapter? Mine worked that way just not POE. Not sure what it was but one of the surface mounted components was burned. Mine was under warranty so I just had to pay shipping to them. They had it back to me in about a week. That's the first thing I'd try. It takes 12VDC through one of those little green connector blocks. I don't know how/why the PoE blows, yet the rest of the circuitry is fine. I've had that happen from a nearby lightning hit. |
-----BEGIN GEEK CODE BLOCK-----
Version: 3.1.2
GMD d-- a+ C++ L++ w M e++++
PS--- PE++ Y++ t+ R- !tv b++++ D---
h---- A++ r+++ y+ z++++ k++ F+++/F4
------END GEEK CODE BLOCK------
Version: 3.1.2
GMD d-- a+ C++ L++ w M e++++
PS--- PE++ Y++ t+ R- !tv b++++ D---
h---- A++ r+++ y+ z++++ k++ F+++/F4
------END GEEK CODE BLOCK------
|
Could you answer a question for me? I did a search and looked through the thread but couldn't find my answer. I have 6-7 analog 700tvl outdoor cameras to put up. 3 of those and a PTZ will be a longer run than the included siamesed cable. They're only about 100 feet max, but wasn't sure if I would be better off using cat5e (solid, 24awg, etc) with power baluns or with buying more siamesed cable? I like the cat5e for the smaller holes and ease at running the cable, but if I will get a better result from the siamesed, that's fine too since I will have to buy material in either situation. If you suggest the cat5e, can you also suggest a quality balun (w/power) to use? I've seen a few, but prices are crazy different so not sure if one is better or just more expensive. Thanks for your posts and info. Edit for spelling |
Proud Member of Team Ranstad
|
Originally Posted By hawk1:
Could you answer a question for me? I did a search and looked through the thread but couldn't find my answer. I have 6-7 analog 700tvl outdoor cameras to put up. 3 of those and a PTZ will be a longer run than the included siamesed cable. They're only about 100 feet max, but wasn't sure if I would be better off using cat5e (solid, 24awg, etc) with power baluns or with buying more siamesed cable? I like the cat5e for the smaller holes and ease at running the cable, but if I will get a better result from the siamesed, that's fine too since I will have to buy material in either situation. If you suggest the cat5e, can you also suggest a quality balun (w/power) to use? I've seen a few, but prices are crazy different so not sure if one is better or just more expensive. Thanks for your posts and info. Edit for spelling I'd definitely do baluns... no question. It will also allow you to change those cable runs to IP-based cameras later, should you choose to do so. As for brand, you can probably use whatever... just make sure your baluns also do power. They're a fairly cheap part, so get a few extras while you're buying, just in case you get a bad one. You should be able to get a pair for 15 bucks or so. Here are some brand-name ones on Amazon. |
-----BEGIN GEEK CODE BLOCK-----
Version: 3.1.2
GMD d-- a+ C++ L++ w M e++++
PS--- PE++ Y++ t+ R- !tv b++++ D---
h---- A++ r+++ y+ z++++ k++ F+++/F4
------END GEEK CODE BLOCK------
Version: 3.1.2
GMD d-- a+ C++ L++ w M e++++
PS--- PE++ Y++ t+ R- !tv b++++ D---
h---- A++ r+++ y+ z++++ k++ F+++/F4
------END GEEK CODE BLOCK------
|
Originally Posted By TheGrayMan: I'd definitely do baluns... no question. It will also allow you to change those cable runs to IP-based cameras later, should you choose to do so. As for brand, you can probably use whatever... just make sure your baluns also do power. They're a fairly cheap part, so get a few extras while you're buying, just in case you get a bad one. You should be able to get a pair for 15 bucks or so. Here are some brand-name ones on Amazon. Originally Posted By TheGrayMan: Originally Posted By hawk1: Could you answer a question for me? I did a search and looked through the thread but couldn't find my answer. I have 6-7 analog 700tvl outdoor cameras to put up. 3 of those and a PTZ will be a longer run than the included siamesed cable. They're only about 100 feet max, but wasn't sure if I would be better off using cat5e (solid, 24awg, etc) with power baluns or with buying more siamesed cable? I like the cat5e for the smaller holes and ease at running the cable, but if I will get a better result from the siamesed, that's fine too since I will have to buy material in either situation. If you suggest the cat5e, can you also suggest a quality balun (w/power) to use? I've seen a few, but prices are crazy different so not sure if one is better or just more expensive. Thanks for your posts and info. Edit for spelling I'd definitely do baluns... no question. It will also allow you to change those cable runs to IP-based cameras later, should you choose to do so. As for brand, you can probably use whatever... just make sure your baluns also do power. They're a fairly cheap part, so get a few extras while you're buying, just in case you get a bad one. You should be able to get a pair for 15 bucks or so. Here are some brand-name ones on Amazon. Thanks for the info Gray Man. I had seen those while doing some foot work. Not real happy that they have RJ45 jacks on them. I think I'd be better off wiring direct to the cat5e? Any opinion on these? Pricey, but not finding much else that looks decent or equivalent for less money . |
Proud Member of Team Ranstad
|
Originally Posted By hawk1:
Thanks for the info Gray Man. I had seen those while doing some foot work. Not real happy that they have RJ45 jacks on them. I think I'd be better off wiring direct to the cat5e? Any opinion on these? Pricey, but not finding much else that looks decent or equivalent for less money . Originally Posted By hawk1:
Originally Posted By TheGrayMan:
Originally Posted By hawk1:
Could you answer a question for me? I did a search and looked through the thread but couldn't find my answer. I have 6-7 analog 700tvl outdoor cameras to put up. 3 of those and a PTZ will be a longer run than the included siamesed cable. They're only about 100 feet max, but wasn't sure if I would be better off using cat5e (solid, 24awg, etc) with power baluns or with buying more siamesed cable? I like the cat5e for the smaller holes and ease at running the cable, but if I will get a better result from the siamesed, that's fine too since I will have to buy material in either situation. If you suggest the cat5e, can you also suggest a quality balun (w/power) to use? I've seen a few, but prices are crazy different so not sure if one is better or just more expensive. Thanks for your posts and info. Edit for spelling I'd definitely do baluns... no question. It will also allow you to change those cable runs to IP-based cameras later, should you choose to do so. As for brand, you can probably use whatever... just make sure your baluns also do power. They're a fairly cheap part, so get a few extras while you're buying, just in case you get a bad one. You should be able to get a pair for 15 bucks or so. Here are some brand-name ones on Amazon. Thanks for the info Gray Man. I had seen those while doing some foot work. Not real happy that they have RJ45 jacks on them. I think I'd be better off wiring direct to the cat5e? Any opinion on these? Pricey, but not finding much else that looks decent or equivalent for less money . Dead link. |
-----BEGIN GEEK CODE BLOCK-----
Version: 3.1.2
GMD d-- a+ C++ L++ w M e++++
PS--- PE++ Y++ t+ R- !tv b++++ D---
h---- A++ r+++ y+ z++++ k++ F+++/F4
------END GEEK CODE BLOCK------
Version: 3.1.2
GMD d-- a+ C++ L++ w M e++++
PS--- PE++ Y++ t+ R- !tv b++++ D---
h---- A++ r+++ y+ z++++ k++ F+++/F4
------END GEEK CODE BLOCK------
Lets try again.  |
Proud Member of Team Ranstad
Join the Community
Your next conversation starts here.
Create your free account to join discussions, share your experience, save topics, and connect with the AR15.COM community.
- Join discussions
- Follow topics and replies
- Connect with fellow enthusiasts
Already a member? Sign in
Stay informed by subscribing to our Newsletter