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Posted: 12/19/2019 12:06:36 AM EDT
I've been looking for an M1 Garand, but at the same time keeping an eye out for an M1A simply because I already have a few rifles chambered in .308.  The rifle is a factory built Springfield Armory with synthetic stock, which was painted green, and the following parts:
-Winchester barrel
-Winchester op rod
-HRT bolt
-SA trigger group
-Lugged FH

Anything particular that sticks out about this rifle?  What would be a reasonable price in good-excellent condition?

Attachment Attached File
Link Posted: 12/19/2019 12:36:08 AM EDT
[#1]
1200 to 1400 , unless you find an enthusiast . Probably made before 2000 .
Link Posted: 12/19/2019 9:13:03 AM EDT
[#2]
Quoted:
I've been looking for an M1 Garand, but at the same time keeping an eye out for an M1A simply because I already have a few rifles chambered in .308.* * *
View Quote
If .308 is your preferred chambering, you do understand that you can get what's essentially a *new* Garand chambered in .308/7.62 (Criterion barrel), right?  ... And likely for less than what you're going to pay for that pre-owned M1A.
Link Posted: 12/19/2019 9:38:24 PM EDT
[#3]
Meh, if I'm going to go with a Garand it will be in .30-06.
Link Posted: 12/20/2019 9:37:59 AM EDT
[#4]
A lot of people like the older M1As, because they have USGI parts in them.  If one needs, or prefers a scope, the M14 platform is much easier to scope than the M1 Garand. I have both, and it is a tossup between them.  I will say that the famous Garand "ping" is an awesome sound.
Link Posted: 12/20/2019 2:09:11 PM EDT
[#5]
Earlier rifles with GI parts will bring a premium. Worth equal or more than a brand new production Standard M1a depending on condition.

If they want less than 1500 it is a very good deal.
Link Posted: 12/20/2019 2:26:36 PM EDT
[#6]
Sounds like an older one with a ton of USGI parts.

Serial number 5 digit or early 6 digit?

All my M1A's are 4 or 5 digit, pretty much everything except the receiver is USGI.
Link Posted: 12/20/2019 8:59:31 PM EDT
[#7]
Not sure, I'll check on the SN...
Link Posted: 12/20/2019 9:18:12 PM EDT
[#8]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Not sure, I'll check on the SN...
View Quote
I'm going to say it's around the 60-65000 SN# range.
Link Posted: 12/21/2019 3:05:11 PM EDT
[#9]
Link Posted: 12/21/2019 3:21:33 PM EDT
[#10]
Right around that SN# I think SA got a bunch of USGI parts in so it's probably a good one.

$1100-$1200.
Link Posted: 12/21/2019 8:34:54 PM EDT
[#11]
What's the go to on mags?
Link Posted: 12/21/2019 8:51:12 PM EDT
[#12]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
What's the go to on mags?
View Quote
Checkmate.

Period.

I have a couple but I also have about 25-30 USGI ones including quite a few still in boxes  and some Korean ones that were sold here maybe 12-15 years ago that I use as range mags. For that they seem to work pretty well but they tend to rust if you don't take care of them.
Link Posted: 12/21/2019 8:56:34 PM EDT
[#13]
Thanks for the information.

Looks like I should be picking up the M1A, hope to get it later next week.
Link Posted: 12/23/2019 12:11:54 AM EDT
[#14]
I highly doubt it left the factory with all those parts, anything is possible in that serial number range.  By that serial number range they had  run out of a lot of USGI parts.  I have a 102,xxx rifle, loaded model, and the only USGI parts on it are the rear sights and hammer.  
It is a 1997-98 serial number range, post-ban, so the FH is defiantly not original.  I can't recall the exact time when SAI stopped selling bare receivers but I think they were still selling receivers during that time frame.  To me this appears like a build from a parts kit and receiver, although if it has a commercial SA trigger housing then it is possible that it left the factory that way.   Best way to tell is call SAI with the serial number and ask how it left the factory.  Nothing wrong with a rifle built from a bare receiver and parts, I've got 3 of them that were built from a stripped receiver.

If the barrel is good and not peeling any chrome in the chamber or bore,  $1100-1200 would be a decent deal.
Link Posted: 12/26/2019 4:20:46 AM EDT
[#15]
Any suggestions on a powder for the M1A?  I have a lot of IMR-4064, Ramshot TAC, Varget, and XBR 8208, but have read that you shouldn't use anything slower than H4895.
Link Posted: 12/26/2019 10:49:30 PM EDT
[#16]
I bought my M1A new in Dec. 2003 and the only thing USGI on it is the barrel. I don’t know if I’ve ever used any other powder than IMR4895.
Link Posted: 12/27/2019 5:11:47 AM EDT
[#17]
Here are a few pics...





























...and the mags and mounts.


Link Posted: 12/27/2019 8:21:34 PM EDT
[#18]
Link Posted: 12/27/2019 9:20:53 PM EDT
[#19]
Yeah, I locked it back in place.
Link Posted: 12/30/2019 12:06:51 AM EDT
[#20]
Nice looking rifle.
Link Posted: 12/30/2019 1:26:26 AM EDT
[#21]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Any suggestions on a powder for the M1A?  I have a lot of IMR-4064, Ramshot TAC, Varget, and XBR 8208, but have read that you shouldn't use anything slower than H4895.
View Quote
Any of those powders will work.  Varget is a little on the slower end but still a good powder.  I have used all of those powders at one time or another.  XBR 8208 is not the most ideal powder, it can work with 150 grain and lighter bullets,it can get temperamental at the upper end and it can happen pretty quick.

For High-power shooting I use IMR4895.  I can load 41 grains of IMR4895 behind any 155 or 168 grain bullet and it will shoot really good in any of my M1As.  I like IMR 4064 for my long range load with 175s.  Varget and RL15 are good powders.  I use TAC/AA2520/W748 for bulk reloading when shooting steel.

You found a good rifle. I find the M14/M1A rifles are the most natural for me to shoot.  
Just make sure it has plenty of grease and good ammo.
Link Posted: 1/7/2020 3:41:12 AM EDT
[#23]
Thanks for all the information!

Has anyone ever tried bedding an M1A, and were the results positive?
Link Posted: 1/7/2020 6:16:50 AM EDT
[#24]
Bedding will benefit any M1A in a wood of fiberglass stock, also unitizing the gas block assy and installing a Sadlak solid operation rod spring guide. These things help stiffen things up and improve accuracy.
Aluminum chassis type stocks like the JAE don’t need bedding.
Once you’ve bedded an M1A it’s best to keep removing the stock from the receiver to a minimum, unless absolutely necessary, to maintain the tight fit between the receiver and the bedding.
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