I just got a relatively cheap M1 carbine off Gunbroker. I'm not sure how the bore is going to be when I get it, so I figured I'd ask questions now so I have time to know what to do/take advantage of the relativley short inspection/return grace period when the time comes (just in case the bore is unshootable).

- What is a good acceptable minimum for the "bullet test"? (i.e., what is the minimum amount that there should be between the muzzle and the neck of the casing on a bullet test?)

- What would be a reasonable estimate for a gunsmith to install/headspace a new barrel on it for me if need be (assuming I supply the new barrel)?

- What are some good, cheap sources of new M1 carbine barrels (after market or USGI)? I found these on KY Imports, brand new chrome-lined barrels for $100 ain't half bad (if they're good quality, I don't know anything about 'em).

Thanks a lot.

I'm interested in the responses you get because I just got two Plainfield carbines off gunbroker.

Quoted: - What is a good acceptable minimum for the "bullet test"? (i.e., what is the minimum amount that there should be between the muzzle and the neck of the casing on a bullet test?)

Don't put too much stock in that "test." My shooter Inland eats the whole bullet but last time I shot it it put five rounds under 1/2" at 25 yards.

The only way you ever know ANYTHING about a gun is by SHOOTING IT.

Quoted: I just got a relatively cheap M1 carbine off Gunbroker. I'm not sure how the bore is going to be when I get it, so I figured I'd ask questions now so I have time to know what to do/take advantage of the relativley short inspection/return grace period when the time comes (just in case the bore is unshootable).

Did you not ask the condition of the bore? Even if the bore is pitted, more than likely it is still shootable. What condition did the seller say it was?

- What is a good acceptable minimum for the "bullet test"? (i.e., what is the minimum amount that there should be between the muzzle and the neck of the casing on a bullet test?)

There is no neck on a .30 Carbine round, only the case mouth. Whatever you find, it may still shoot decently but then again may not. Carbines are not renowned for being accurate shooters, like the Garand, M14, etc.

- What would be a reasonable estimate for a gunsmith to install/headspace a new barrel on it for me if need be (assuming I supply the new barrel)?

That is going to depend on how much work the smith has and what his backlog is. This will vary greatly. Some are relatively fast, some aren't. Unless the guy is very, very slow I would be much more concerned with the *quality* of the work and that it is done correctly. You can find some smiths who are fast, but it is for a reason, they are no good and/or no one will use them. In other words, there is no set answer to your question.

- What are some good, cheap sources of new M1 carbine barrels (after market or USGI)? I found these on KY Imports, brand new chrome-lined barrels for $100 ain't half bad (if they're good quality, I don't know anything about 'em).

Good and cheap are not necessarily words that can be used together. Most times, you do get what you pay for. If I recall correctly, be wary of those chrome lined carbine barrels. USGI carbines were never chrome lined as new. Some, if not all of these barrels are rejects from back in the 60's and 70's that the govt. contracted for but did not buy due to problems with them. At least that is what one noted expert told me when I first started seeing these things pop up. At the very *least* I would contact the seller and see what the return policy is, in other words if they don't fit can you send them back. What I would do is to contact a smith who is familiar and competent with carbines and re-barreling them and ask about these barrels first. That way you're not out the price of the barrel, shipping and installation only to find out the barrel is a POS and you can't return it. Ask the smith first and see what they say and recommend. They may have some barrels already anyway.

Both DGR and Fulton charge about $260 installed plus freight.

A local smith may can beat that by 40 bucks or so.  MW doesn't always tell the story about accuracy.  Since all USGI carbine ammo has been noncorrosive since the beginning, dark bores in a carbine are a sign of neglect.  The rest of the gun should look poor as well.

These guns are not tack drivers, wern't designed to be.  They are designed to hit a man size target out to 150 yds.  Think of it as a long barreled pistol with a stock.