Hi All,

I recieved last week from CMP a Greek Service Grade. Came in very good condition. I completely striped it and refinished it myself. It's the one on the bottom. It's a HRA from '55. The one on the top is my SA from '44. I spent hours cleaning the stock, but did not strip it and refinish it like the darker HRA. I spent time taking the shine off my HRA today before reassembling it. What do you think??




http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/7594/1494/1600/Garand%27s.jpg

Damn that turned out nice!

Care to tell us how you did that??

Quoted: Damn that turned out nice! Care to tell us how you did that??

+1

Quoted: Quoted: Damn that turned out nice! Care to tell us how you did that?? +1

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Damn that turned out nice! Care to tell us how you did that?? +1

+1

Looks great!!!

sweet

Thanks guys!

I did research on the net before doing it.  Seems like there are 1001+ ways.  I picked the way I liked the best, and then tweaked it a bit.  It was REALLY nerveracking getting the metal off, and it was tough putting it back on (specifically the pin that holds the fron ferrulle.)  My suggestion is to take off as little metal as possible.

-spray the wood with easy-off oven cleaner.  Let is sit for 2-3 mintues then scrub it off gently with a scotch-brite pad and under hot tap water.  Some people rec. to do this twice and let it sit longer-I chose once and for only a couple of minutes.  It was ok is not ALL the grime got off, I was more concerned with not damaging the wood.

-let it dry 48 hours.

-lightly sand with #00 steel wool.

-two coats of minwax natural stain, applied with a clean cleaning patch.  Did not wipe off excess like can said-the wood was so dry it soaked it up.

-apply heavy coat of tung oil with new pathes.  wiped off excess after 5 minutes with balled up pantyhose.  let dry 24 hours.

-apply second coat of tung oil.  after 5 minutes wipe with balled up panty hose.  This helps take some of the really shiny shine off.  

-after 24 hours, I sanded with #0000 steel wool until the finish was dull to my liking, wiped off with a cheese cloth.

I bought all the supplies from Home depot and walmart.  I think I spent $20-$25.  TIP: I used the empty plastic tray that came with my case of 16oz bottles of soda I bought from BJ's (local wholesale club) as a place to lay and work with the wood.  THIS WAS VERY HELPFUL rather than lying it on the ground.

Let me know if you have any other questions.  Again, it was real nerve racking the first time you see your stripped wood after using oven-off and you have the sick feeling in your stomach of "am I in over my head?".  I'm REALLY happy with the outcome, and proud of myself for kinda stumbling my way through this.

Thanks!!!

I have to try this!  You did an EXCELLENT job.

Beautiful, Im a fan of the greek service grade as they have seen very little use

Refer the program to others.

Here is a pic of the soda rack I was talking about and how it helped.  I also was able to rest the handguard and front wood on the sides of the rack-they sat on there nicely and held them while I worked on them!  I hope this helps!

http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/7594/1494/1600/Garand%20on%20rack.jpg

Not bad!

It's acutually more dark-walnutty than in the pic looks.  By using natual minwax stain, I didn't alter the natural color of the wood at all (though I could have chosen a different shade).

Your soda rack pic isn't working.

It will work if I paste the url into a browser though.  I hope this is ok...

http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/7594/1494/1600/Garand%20on%20rack.jpg

Purposely not hotlinked so others can copy/paste.  That's a great idea using the rack.

Nice, real nice work.

I have an Greek HRA SG that has stock that needs to be done. Being short on time and patience, I bought a new stock in Real Tree Camo so that I can take the time to do it right. When winter comes, I'll be working on the US SA Field Grade and the HRA SG. Once I get my last bit of metal in, I'll post pic's of the Real Tree. With the black finish on the Greek, the new camo looks fantasic... a purist??? No, but I can always go back to wood. Even buying the pliers for the clip on the hand guard, that clip sucks.

Although is VERY nerve-racking while you're doing it (wondering if you're doing it correctly), it's a GREAT feeling when it's complete and it comes out nice.   Thanks for the compliments, it's always nice to hear someone else other than just yourself thinks it came out OK.  I tend to be impatient, but forced myself to do it over several days I knew I would be busy to force myself to allow it to dry the appropriate amount of time.  I'm very much a firm believer in this process 'less is more'-take off as little metal as possible, sand with the steel wool only lightly, only let the easy-off sit on it for 2-3 mintues, etc., etc.  The soda rack was VERY helpful in the process.

If anyone has any questions on trying it yourself, feel free to ask.  You are right about one thing though, I started off with one back in January, now I've got two...

Quoted: ... I was more concerned with not damaging the wood.

Once you sprayed the EZ-Off, it became too late to NOT damage the wood.

Tim

Maybe so, but all the research I did rec. easy-off, and to leave it on 5-10 minutes.  As I stated I only left it on 2 mintues.  If the wood is damaged, it's beyond my ability to see it.  

I've read the thing about using EZ-Off some place. I bought a neutralizer spray as suggested by one the sites to help offset any damage and to correct the ph of the wood. A breif two minute soak and a thorough washing probably eliminates the need for the neutralizer.  Leaving it soak overnight...well that might yield something not so desireable.  As long as it meets your expectations its good...and from the looks of it, I'd be smiling with the out come.

Thanks wojo, I've very happy with the outcome.  I REALLY washed the stock in hot water for several minutes.  Not sure why, but the sites all said washing it in hot water, or water with dish soap.  I'm guessing that's like the neutralizer you were refering to.