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Posted: 10/3/2003 5:24:36 PM EDT
[#1]
There is a set screw on the top-front side of the f/s just under the front sight. It is angled down towards the castle nut and fits between the notchs in the nut. Back out the set screw and the castle nut can be removed. There is a special tool for loosening the nut, you may need it, or you may get lucky and not.
Or being a a Chinese barrel, is the flash suppressor welded on? Some were tack welded, especially on the post ban rifles. |
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Posted: 10/3/2003 8:13:31 PM EDT
[#2]
This thing must be pinned or welded on or pressed because it won't budge with convention methods.
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Posted: 10/4/2003 5:13:48 AM EDT
[#3]
Can you loosen the "castle nut?" Run it all the way forward in the slot and strike the rear of the bayonet lug with a hammer. Put a piece of hard wood between the hammer and lug to avoid damage to the piece.
If it's welded no sweat, any barrel shortening will remove this section anyway. -- Chuck |
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Posted: 10/4/2003 5:10:02 PM EDT
[#4]
Some of those polytechs I worked on were brazed on instead of welding.If that's the case you'll have to heat it up to remove the flashider.
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Posted: 10/4/2003 6:02:33 PM EDT
[#5]
I whacked it with a shot hammer and the old 26 oz ball peen and no luck. It must be welded, although I see no signs of such, or brazed. I will heat it up to see if it is brazed on and if that is not successful I'll just cut it off. I want to true it up in the lathe and replace the crown at the same time.
What if any gas port or spring tension needs to be adjusted to get it to run correctly? ANything? Thanks for the responses gentlemen, Kentlik |
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Posted: 10/5/2003 2:13:14 PM EDT
[#6]
The gas port may be a different size, I've no way of measuring it. I use the USGI spring etc. in my shorty. (Photo in the "Vortec" thread.)
-- Chuck |
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Posted: 10/5/2003 2:18:24 PM EDT
[#7]
Chuck thanks for the link to the other thread, helped me get an idea about how it looks on a GI setup. I am going after it again tomorrow.
kent |
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Posted: 10/5/2003 4:45:20 PM EDT
[#8]
When ya heat it up ya don't need to get it cherry red.Only eough to soften the brazing if it's brazed on.
Only heat the part of the flashider that contacts the barrel behind the castle nut Loosen the castle nut as much as possible then heat it a little while tapping the flahider untill it moves forward.Go easy then give it more as needed. HTH |
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Posted: 10/6/2003 6:52:18 PM EDT
[#9]
Copy that, thanks.
Kent |
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