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Posted: 9/9/2020 5:59:50 PM EDT
I had my first sustained session loading on my new Dillon XL750...500 rounds of the 9mm. <-- shit-eatin grin
Bullet: Black Bullet Intl. 147gr FN Brass: Top Brass mixed once fired, prepped Powder: 3.7gr CFE Pistol Primer: Fed GM100M Everything was smooth and no hiccups for the first ~200 rounds. Except I get now why, **CASEFEEDER**. It will be next on the list. o 1st problem: After about 200 rounds, about every fifth round or so, the cases weren't getting fed completely into station #1, causing the press to jam when the case mouth hit the resizing die. I need to see how to adjust this so it's not happening (unless someone has a suggestion). o 2nd problem: I had a handful of rounds where the primer wasn't fully seated. I believe this was because when I stopped to refill the case feed tube, I did it with the handle in the up position. When I restarted, I neglected to (fully) push forward the handle and finishing seating the primer. I guess the solution here is to stop only on the down stroke? o 3rd problem: I had four rounds in a row that didn't get a primer. Not sure what the problem was, but by the time I caught it, the cases were getting primers again. I pulled the bullet and reloaded correctly. o 4th problem: Cocked primers (x2). No idea what is happening here. o 5th problem: Bullet seated sideways. Operator error. Some other takeaways... I NEED A CASE FEEDER! I need the Inline Fab 4" Riser for the press quick change. I need a roller/ergo handle. Need a bigger tub for the "whoopsies". So what I'm left with is ... o 5 rounds with the primer not completely seated. Can I try to finish seating the primer in loaded rounds? Are these safe to disassemble with a kinetic bullet puller? o 2 rounds with cocked primers. Once I disassemble these rounds, how do I make them safe? o 2 primed cases, but the case is destroyed. How do I make these safe? |
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Slow down and be more deliberate with your movements/handle strokes.
Does any of your brass need to be swaged/reamed? |
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The slide that pushes cases can be tapped with your hand when finishing the priming stroke.
As you gain experience, you’ll feel primers seat. |
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Quoted: Slow down and be more deliberate with your movements/handle strokes. Does any of your brass need to be swaged/reamed? View Quote It's supposed to already have been. https://www.topbrass-inc.com/collections/re-spec-brass/products/9mm-luger-reconditioned-brass?variant=6064259006502 |
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Been a while since I first set up my 650, but IIRC the black plastic piece that shuttles the case into position 1 can be adjusted to change its stop point by just loosening the Allen bolt and sliding it to the appropriate position.
As for the priming issues, I'll not opine as the primer mech for the 750 as it is a different setup than the 650. |
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If you have a hand primer Id see if the ones that aren't fully seated would go in it. Then use it to press the primer the rest of the way in. Not sure if thats the recommended way to do it, but its an idea. My 750 arrives Tuesday so I'm sure I'll be adding to your thread asking questions.
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1. Not sure
2. When I leave the press for any reason, the handle is down and ram is up. Always. 3. I have a 650, so I’m not sure how the priming works on 750. But on the 650, when the primer warning goes off I stop (see 2above) and refill the primer magazine. 4. Make sure your bench is rock solid. 5. That’s on you. |
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The page numbers are from the 750 manual.
1 - Check the case insert slide/slide cam. Im gonna butcher this... My assumption is that you ordered the press setup for pistol and not rifle. The slide cam has a rifle and pistol side. The longer angled side is pistol. If that's ok there is really only one adjustment #22 screw on the left side facing the handle. The back of the triangular piece has to be aligned to the back of the slide cam. Sometimes its adjusted too far forward and it inserts the case into the shell plate too deep and it bounces out or not enough forward to push it all the way in. Finally check any dirt in the shell plate. trouble shooting page 48 2,3 - Your on your own. My SDB and the 550 have a similar priming system and it sucks in my opinion compared my 650. 4 - Could just be the way you laid the primer tube down. I don't lay my tubes down but stand them up in a coffee cup. If it persists use a pipe cleaner with some isopropyl alcohol to clean out the primer tube or the primer magazine on the press. Make sure red/blue plastic at the end of the tube is not messed up. trouble shooting on page 48 |
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Quoted: The page numbers are from the 750 manual. 1 - Check the case insert slide/slide cam. Im gonna butcher this... My assumption is that you ordered the press setup for pistol and not rifle. The slide cam has a rifle and pistol side. The longer angled side is pistol. Yes, ordered setup for 9mm which is what I'm loading. If that's ok there is really only one adjustment #22 screw on the left side facing the handle. The back of the triangular piece has to be aligned to the back of the slide cam. Sometimes its adjusted too far forward and it inserts the case into the shell plate too deep and it bounces out It may be bouncing out due to a bit of wobble in the table or not enough forward to push it all the way in. Finally check any dirt in the shell plate. trouble shooting page 48 I'll check this, thanks. 2,3 - Your on your own. My SDB and the 550 have a similar priming system and it sucks in my opinion compared my 650. 4 - Could just be the way you laid the primer tube down. I don't lay my tubes down but stand them up in a coffee cup. Boom. I did lay down my tubes. That idea will probably solve that issue for me. If it persists use a pipe cleaner with some isopropyl alcohol to clean out the primer tube or the primer magazine on the press. Make sure red/blue plastic at the end of the tube is not messed up. trouble shooting on page 48 View Quote Until I can get my workbench better stabilized, I'll just load smaller batches and slow down & take it easy. Thanks for all the feedback. |
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I told you that you needed a casefeeder.
On a 650 you can put a case back into the priming station to reseat a primer. I don't know if you can do that on a 750. As for the primers being seated sideways or upside down, keep your primer fill tubes in a vertical position when they have primers in them. |
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You can on a 750. Question is, is it advisable to put a fully loaded cartridge back into that station and finish seating the primer. I do have a hand primer, but don't know if that would be better/safer.
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Quoted: You can on a 750. Question is, is it advisable to put a fully loaded cartridge back into that station and finish seating the primer. I do have a hand primer, but don't know if that would be better/safer. View Quote As in already has powder and a bullet seated? Absolutely not. The chances of lighting one off during seating is pretty slim, but I'd rather the case be empty if it ever happened. |
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Yes. I have 5 rounds that are fully assembled with primer, powder & bullet. But the primer is not fully seated. I didn't think it would be a good aidea (I watched the Jiminy Cricket safety films as a kid ).
So what's the best way to disassemble these rounds. Kinetic bullet puller? |
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Quoted: Yes. I have 5 rounds that are fully assembled with primer, powder & bullet. But the primer is not fully seated. I didn't think it would be a good aidea (I watched the Jiminy Cricket safety films as a kid ). So what's the best way to disassemble these rounds. Kinetic bullet puller? View Quote Probably the fastest. If the primer is protruding far enough you might not get one in a shell holder to use a collet puller, assuming you have one. ETA: Oh, and don't attempt to decap it with a sizing die. I'd use a regular decap die, but some say don't even attempt to decap live primers. |
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Ok for those 5, I'll pull the bullet and then reseat the primer in the empty case and carry on.
What about the ones with the cocked primers? Any problems using like a Lee Hand Press with a decapper to punch out the cocked primer? |
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Personally, I'd re-seat the primer if it's just not in deep enough; the chances of anything going wrong are exceedingly small. As far as the crooked primers are concerned: Just toss 'em. It's not worth the hassle.
FWIW: I've had a 550 since 1992, and the primer feed will, after time, need some adjusting/fiddling. It's not the end of the world. You mentioned about stopping on the up stroke - I consider a full stroke to pull the handle back, then all the way forward to seat the primer to one complete cycle. It's just a matter of habit to go through that motion before you stop to do anything. |
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Quoted: Personally, I'd re-seat the primer if it's just not in deep enough; the chances of anything going wrong are exceedingly small. As far as the crooked primers are concerned: Just toss 'em. It's not worth the hassle. FWIW: I've had a 550 since 1992, and the primer feed will, after time, need some adjusting/fiddling. It's not the end of the world. You mentioned about stopping on the up stroke - I consider a full stroke to pull the handle back, then all the way forward to seat the primer to one complete cycle. It's just a matter of habit to go through that motion before you stop to do anything. View Quote Think of it this way, they didn't go off when you seated them did they? Always stop with press handle down. Do this when low primer alarm goes off. Refill primers, check powder level, then handle back up, seat primer then take the case just charged and weigh the charge. If all is well return case with it's charge to press and continue. So every 100 rounds when you refill primers, powder level in hopper gets checked, and charge verified. Crooked primers, deprime them, throw primer away, reuse case. Live primers can be decapped easily, just go slow and easy and they pop right out. |
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Quoted: The slide that pushes cases can be tapped with your hand when finishing the priming stroke. As you gain experience, you'll feel primers seat. View Quote If the rail the cases slide across has debris in the grooves, you might get jams. Same with a damaged cartridge base. |
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Quoted: Been a while since I first set up my 650, but IIRC the black plastic piece that shuttles the case into position 1 can be adjusted to change its stop point by just loosening the Allen bolt and sliding it to the appropriate position. As for the priming issues, I'll not opine as the primer mech for the 750 as it is a different setup than the 650. View Quote I replaced all of the things before I got the right guy on the phone and got these things ironed out. |
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I'm going with most of my problems being related to a wobbly bench. Going to shore up that issue before I load anymore rounds.
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Quoted: I would seat the primers until they were .002 to .003 below flush. Think of it this way, they didn't go off when you seated them did they? View Quote |
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Bah. Just toss 'em. I dump my 9mm in to a .30cal ammo box and it doesn't matter if there are 433 or 428 bullets in there.
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Quoted: I'm going to have to pull the bullets on these. They're far enough out of pocket that I think there's powder in the pocket causing it from fully seating. View Quote FYI, I recently loaded about 800 rounds of 9mm using the same bench and almost the same press. The only problem I had with any finished rounds was one flipped primer and I'm 95% sure that happened because I laid the primer pickup tube down when full. The more stable your bench the better but I don't think that is what the issue is. Just go slow and use a consistent stroke. Make sure to always follow through by pushing the handle forward to a full stop. You have a less than 2% failure rate and most of those were demonstrably operator error. Get back at it and it will become more and more natural. As for the case insert slide cam that feeds the cases into station one, make sure you are using the long side for pistol cases. On the back, the cam should be flush with the cam slide. Look under the caliber conversion section of your instruction manual for details. |
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I’m not familiar with the 750, but on the 650, there is a plastic rod that pushes down on the primer magazine.
Most guys put a 44 mag or 45 colt empty case on it to give it a little extra weight. That may help with a flipped primer |
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Just happened to cross my mind. If you're the sapper I'm thinking of that shot a 458 socom at Tom Bean years ago you're not far from Gunmaster in Plano. When I lived over there they had a lot of dillon stuff. They might have a case feeder or any little parts you might want or need. Might save you on some shipping.
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Quoted: I'm not familiar with the 750, but on the 650, there is a plastic rod that pushes down on the primer magazine. Most guys put a 44 mag or 45 colt empty case on it to give it a little extra weight. That may help with a flipped primer View Quote |
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Quoted: Just happened to cross my mind. If you're the sapper I'm thinking of that shot a 458 socom at Tom Bean years ago you're not far from Gunmaster in Plano. When I lived over there they had a lot of dillon stuff. They might have a case feeder or any little parts you might want or need. Might save you on some shipping. View Quote Yeah, I've already picked up some spares from Gunmaster. The new Scheels is closer to me and carries Dillon stuff, too. |
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Quoted: 44 will not fit, 45 ACP or 45 Colt is a press fit. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: I'm not familiar with the 750, but on the 650, there is a plastic rod that pushes down on the primer magazine. Most guys put a 44 mag or 45 colt empty case on it to give it a little extra weight. That may help with a flipped primer The cocked primers were almost certainly due to me laying the primer tubes on their side. |
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What's the headstamp on the brass with the primers that didn't go in all the way?
Military 9mm brass has crimped primers which could certainly be the cause. Most of the crimped 9mm I get is WCC but I get the occasional crimped FC. |
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Quoted: @bigsapper IM me with your address, I will send you a primer tube holder. https://i.imgur.com/t42cMvjl.jpg Made of Oak and holds 10 tubes. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: I stuck a 45 ACP case on there. The cocked primers were almost certainly due to me laying the primer tubes on their side. IM me with your address, I will send you a primer tube holder. https://i.imgur.com/t42cMvjl.jpg Made of Oak and holds 10 tubes. Wow! That's very generous. For now, I re-purposed one of my wife's tumblers. |
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Quoted: Wow! That's very generous. For now, I re-purposed one of my wife's tumblers. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/15341/20200912_150919-1589846.jpg View Quote Well I have it boxed, any other takers? EDIT, claimed by Corporal_Chaos in a post below. 1)Must be a regular posting member of this forum. My discretion on who is active here. 2) Post a Pic of your Dillon. Won't do a single stage guy any good. This means no Active topic guys. |
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Quoted: Ok. Well I have it boxed, any other takers? 1)Must be a regular posting member of this forum. My discretion on who is active here. 2) Post a Pic of your Dillon. Won't do a single stage guy any good. This means no Active topic guys. View Quote I could use a primer pickup tube stand. Attached File |
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Quoted: I could use a primer pickup tube stand. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/23635/20200814_211836_jpg-1547043.JPG View Quote @Corporal_Chaos PM me your address, you got it. |
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All I can add to this is to re-iterate about slowing it down a little. I got my 750 about a year ago and the first things I did with it were two buckets of 9 mm brass that needed resizing and deprimed. I have the case feeder and I found that while it is really easy to use the machine, if you move too fast things bind up or jam and then you have issues. It is the epitome of the old saying slow is smooth and smooth is fast.
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Quoted: @Corporal_Chaos PM me your address, you got it. View Quote Really nice craftsmanship. I love the grain of the wood. Nice and solid too. Now I just need to get my order from Dillon so I can finish filling it up. Attached File |
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I’m 90% sure that a solid bench will fix a lot of your issues. So will going a bit slower. And so will being very deliberate in each cycle of the handle.
My 750 is mounted on an Inline Fabrication Quick Change UltraMount that’s bolted THROUGH the bench AND an added 2x4 on each side. The top does not flex, and the bench doesn’t shift. And the bench is fastened to the wall with a 2x4 cleat, so it’s solid the whole time. I have several years of experience with a Hornady LnL AP press. It was kind of sensitive to how smoothly you moved the handle, particularly in how it advanced the shell plate. Priming needed that deliberate attention to make sure the handle went ALL the way forward. And feeding, like with the XL750, required the handle to go ALL the way forward for the case to go into the shell plate. When I did my first run on my XL750, I was more cautious than I needed to be. Dillon’s equipment moves more smoothly and has fewer “gotchas” in operation, so it was both amazingly easy and much quicker than my experience with the LnL AP. But I was also learning what happened when, so I wasn’t too worried about how fast I went. I DID have to adjust the case feeder arm a bit. It didn’t go all the way back to drop the next case in the tube 100% of the time. I turned its adjustment set screw about 1/2 a turn out and bingo! And yeah, you NEED a case feeder. |
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Quoted: Really nice craftsmanship. I love the grain of the wood. Nice and solid too. Now I just need to get my order from Dillon so I can finish filling it up. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/23635/20200919_231747_jpg-1599499.JPG View Quote Glad you like it. The little copper stub sticking up on the end, when you first put a primer tube in the holder push the tube over the copper stub. This frees the last primer picked up so it will release easily when tube is filling the primer mag on the press. |
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Quoted: @Corporal_Chaos Glad you like it. The little copper stub sticking up on the end, when you first put a primer tube in the holder push the tube over the copper stub. This frees the last primer picked up so it will release easily when tube is filling the primer mag on the press. View Quote I was wondering about that. Pretty clever. Thanks again! |
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Quoted: I’m 90% sure that a solid bench will fix a lot of your issues. So will going a bit slower. And so will being very deliberate in each cycle of the handle. My 750 is mounted on an Inline Fabrication Quick Change UltraMount that’s bolted THROUGH the bench AND an added 2x4 on each side. The top does not flex, and the bench doesn’t shift. And the bench is fastened to the wall with a 2x4 cleat, so it’s solid the whole time. I have several years of experience with a Hornady LnL AP press. It was kind of sensitive to how smoothly you moved the handle, particularly in how it advanced the shell plate. Priming needed that deliberate attention to make sure the handle went ALL the way forward. And feeding, like with the XL750, required the handle to go ALL the way forward for the case to go into the shell plate. When I did my first run on my XL750, I was more cautious than I needed to be. Dillon’s equipment moves more smoothly and has fewer “gotchas” in operation, so it was both amazingly easy and much quicker than my experience with the LnL AP. But I was also learning what happened when, so I wasn’t too worried about how fast I went. I DID have to adjust the case feeder arm a bit. It didn’t go all the way back to drop the next case in the tube 100% of the time. I turned its adjustment set screw about 1/2 a turn out and bingo! And yeah, you NEED a case feeder. View Quote EXACTLY the process I went through going from a LnL to a 750. If my LnL was easier to prime cases I don't know that I would have boUgh a 750. My hand used to get beat up shoving forward for the priming step. |
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