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Posted: 2/23/2024 11:35:56 AM EDT
I have been removing crimps from .223/5.56 brass using the RCBS crimp cutter on a case prep center. These get dull quick, which is surprising, and as such has me looking at options.
Looking at everything from the Frankford/RCBS/Dillon super swagers to Lee and RCBS dies, to the Hornady LNL AP crimp rig, to new cutters... I read reviews and they are all over the place. Some better than others. Looking forward to and appreciate you opinions - based on your use of several options. My goals are obviously crimp removal but want something that just plain and simple works, will last, and is easy to use and is efficient. Leaning toward the Lee die or the Hornady LNL... Thanks in advance! |
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I am using the Lee app press. It works well. I did have a swage it on my 550 but it wasn’t great.
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I use a chamfer tool. Two twists and usually good to go
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Global Warming Hoax Skeptic before it was cool
WA, USA
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For a powered crimp removal, I like the Hornady crimp reamer with the positive stop, chucked in a drill. https://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/product/productId/6409 Reamer is screwed into a coupling nut and chucked into drill. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-32-x-8-Stainless-Steel-Stainless-Steel-Regular-Coupling-Nut/4582541 |
Selling agent for Algores carbon credit scam.
Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other. |
I use the Dillon Super Swage for 5.56, thousands of rounds. Occasionally I will get a random case that needs a touch with the rotary cutter. Not all case brands have the same thicknesses.
I use Hornady cutters mounted in a battery drill for the other lower volume things. |
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Preferred pronoun: MARINE
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Global Warming Hoax Skeptic before it was cool
WA, USA
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Originally Posted By wildearp: I use the Dillon Super Swage for 5.56, thousands of rounds. Occasionally I will get a random case that needs a touch with the rotary cutter. Not all case brands have the same thicknesses. I use Hornady cutters mounted in a battery drill for the other lower volume things. View Quote |
Selling agent for Algores carbon credit scam.
Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other. |
The absolute best crimp removal is to sell the crimped brass and buy non-crimped brass. It is about cost neutral and you save a ton of time and wear on your hands.
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Global Warming Hoax Skeptic before it was cool
WA, USA
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Originally Posted By pepe-lepew: The absolute best crimp removal is to sell the crimped brass and buy non-crimped brass. It is about cost neutral and you save a ton of time and wear on your hands. View Quote Crimp removal is not hard, and a great technique every reloader should learn. |
Selling agent for Algores carbon credit scam.
Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other. |
I use the Hornady reamer on a Frankford Case Trim and Prep center. Been using the same one for a good bit. A great setup for me uniforming and processing brass new to me.
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Global Warming Hoax Skeptic before it was cool
WA, USA
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Originally Posted By smokinghole: I use the Hornady reamer on a Frankford Case Trim and Prep center. Been using the same one for a good bit. A great setup for me uniforming and processing brass new to me. View Quote Chuck yours in a drill and you won't go back. Takes 2 seconds in a drill, how long in your prep machine? |
Selling agent for Algores carbon credit scam.
Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other. |
Originally Posted By dryflash3: https://i.imgur.com/QOlBlxnl.jpg For a powered crimp removal, I like the Hornady crimp reamer with the positive stop, chucked in a drill. https://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/product/productId/6409 Reamer is screwed into a coupling nut and chucked into drill. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-32-x-8-Stainless-Steel-Stainless-Steel-Regular-Coupling-Nut/4582541 View Quote I'm a @dryflash3 convert. |
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Originally Posted By dryflash3: The reason I chuck my reamer in a drill is because prep centers have too slow of an RPM for anything other than deburring. Chuck yours in a drill and you won't go back. Takes 2 seconds in a drill, how long in your prep machine? View Quote That’s how I used it before I got the FA trim/prep . I find it to be fine, I’m pretty light/conservative with the cut. Its not the fastest but its a check step on cases I know need trimming. |
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Originally Posted By dryflash3: The reason I chuck my reamer in a drill is because prep centers have too slow of an RPM for anything other than deburring. Chuck yours in a drill and you won't go back. Takes 2 seconds in a drill, how long in your prep machine? View Quote Agree, think that is the way to go. Again. Mine is dull and had me thinking through the process... I like new tools but it is too easy to have two buckets and a drill. And earbuds... |
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I use a Lee Ram Swage and check the pockets with go/nogo gage pins.
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Global Warming Hoax Skeptic before it was cool
WA, USA
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Selling agent for Algores carbon credit scam.
Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other. |
Global Warming Hoax Skeptic before it was cool
WA, USA
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Selling agent for Algores carbon credit scam.
Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other. |
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Originally Posted By Trollslayer: I bought one of these for small primer pockets. It sucks whether hand driven or motor driven. RCBS Crimp Remover https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/510J6mjmc0L._AC_SL1200_.jpg View Quote This is the one I have now and I agree with you. It got dull very fast, soft metal in my opinion for brass to dull it in 500-750 cases?? Like rounded off and rough edges - useless. Heard of a guy using hard metal #2 phillips bits.... Hmmmmmm |
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Originally Posted By dryflash3: Not what OP is asking. Crimp removal is not hard, and a great technique every reloader should learn. View Quote Totally meets his requirements and he already knows how to remove crimps. I was in his shoes and spent lots of money, time and wear on my hands trying to find good ways to remove a crimps in volume. I found the LC once fired brass I had stock piled was just as valuable as once fired non-crimped brass so it was a no-brainer decision and excellent solution. |
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Originally Posted By wildearp: I use the Dillon Super Swage for 5.56, thousands of rounds. Occasionally I will get a random case that needs a touch with the rotary cutter. Not all case brands have the same thicknesses. I use Hornady cutters mounted in a battery drill for the other lower volume things. View Quote This is the way. |
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I have numerous crimp removing tools from hand-held Lyman and Hornady to Dillon Super Swage and I don't use them anymore.
I send all the brass that needs crimps removed to M&S Brass Processing. I'd much rather spend the time reloading than removing crimps. |
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<placeholder for something good in the future>
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Originally Posted By FB41: I have numerous crimp removing tools from hand-held Lyman and Hornady to Dillon Super Swage and I don't use them anymore. I send all the brass that needs crimps removed to M&S Brass Processing. I'd much rather spend the time reloading than removing crimps. View Quote If you shoot a lot, that might be worth it to some people. For me, while a PITA, it's part of the process that makes reloading enjoyable. If I routinely had to de-crimp a thousand pieces of brass then I would probably reconsider. |
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Daddy loves you. Now go away.
Ruthless ruler of cubicle B300.2C.983 |
Another vote for Hornady product In a high speed drill. Just did 2300 pieces. It was easy and fun.
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Global Warming Hoax Skeptic before it was cool
WA, USA
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Originally Posted By RWEIII: This is the one I have now and I agree with you. It got dull very fast, soft metal in my opinion for brass to dull it in 500-750 cases?? Like rounded off and rough edges - useless. Heard of a guy using hard metal #2 phillips bits.... Hmmmmmm View Quote |
Selling agent for Algores carbon credit scam.
Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other. |
I think I've tried every style out there.
1) by a mile: 1050/1100 that does it natively on press. 2) super swage 600 I wouldn't consider anything else for high volume unless I simply couldn't get my hands on the above. |
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SWAGE-IT on myXL650 |
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Dillon super swage
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I have found swaging primer pockets to be a pain over the years. I tried most of the tools and finally settled on a Dillon Super Swage and the Primer Pocket Swage Gage by Ballistic Tools to set it up. I don’t process volumes of brass like others have posted. I think the Swage Gage is a helpful tool no matter your method of swaging or reaming.
If you swage, you don’t want to swage too little or too much. If you ream, you don’t want to remove too little brass or too much. Using a power tool to ream is probably the easiest and fastest if you are careful and do it right. There was a time when reaming was not favored because it removed brass. I like military brass so I don’t want to sell it. At one time, I had an almost endless source. |
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I also found carbon tooling dulls fast.
I switched to a 5/16 carbide 60 degree counter sink on my lathe It can be used in a drill just chuck the drill in a bench vise |
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Super swage for me
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Originally Posted By wildearp: I use the Dillon Super Swage for 5.56, thousands of rounds. Occasionally I will get a random case that needs a touch with the rotary cutter. Not all case brands have the same thicknesses. I use Hornady cutters mounted in a battery drill for the other lower volume things. View Quote +1 I have the Dillon and I know I have had to adjust the internal supporting mandrel from brand to brand. The thickness of metal in the primer pocket web area can vary (even within head stamps). I have lightly cut them away with a regular RCBS chamfer tool and used a borrowed RCBS swadger kit. I wasn’t overly impressed with that kit. |
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Hornady reamer chucked in a drill. Ordered a dillon super swage but canceled the order because I use mixed headstamp and didn't wanna have issues because of that
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Originally Posted By RWEIII: This is the one I have now and I agree with you. It got dull very fast, soft metal in my opinion for brass to dull it in 500-750 cases?? Like rounded off and rough edges - useless. Heard of a guy using hard metal #2 phillips bits.... Hmmmmmm View Quote Not buying that bit about getting dull in 750 cases. Especially not buying the garbage about 'rounded off corners and rough edges'. That steel would have to be dead soft (and the steel in those bits are NOT that soft) before that tiny bit of brass trimming did anything noticeable to the edges on the RCBS tool. Pretty sure I got at least 10k worth of brass processed on mine so far (chucked up in a drill like dryflash suggested above because yes, it is faster that way...) with no noticeable dulling of the cutting surfaces. Most definitely have not noticed any 'rounding of corners' or 'rough edges' on it. If you had contacted RCBS about your 'issues' they would have replaced what you had without hesitation. You might have been required to send the 'worn' cutter in first but they most definitely WOULD have replaced it... |
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I have the rcbs one and it shows no signs of getting dull after maybe a thousand uses.
I keep meaning to mount a electric drill to a stand and use a foot switch for control. Holding a cordless drill and pulling the trigger over and over is not ideal for me. For multiple reasons. I have a dental buffing motor I would use but the slowest it spins is 1700 rpms. |
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I tried a couple before I found the McJ Tools one & I like it a lot.
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I prefer the RCBS with it in a drill press. I use a block of oak with a hole the size of the case neck directly below. Drop in case, hold it, pull lever, rinse, repeat. I even rigged up a Rube Goldberg foot pedal for the drill press to make it easier.
Hornady cutter works fine too and that is what I use if I have to touch a few up by hand if I missed something. |
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This is what I use, except at the same time, I'm using the decap die, DILLON RT1200 trimmer, and Lyman M-die. for me, each pull of the handle produces a processed piece of brass Swage It S650 Swager for the Dillon XL650 Reloading Press Installation and Operation Video |
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Originally Posted By dryflash3: Not what OP is asking. Crimp removal is not hard, and a great technique every reloader should learn. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By dryflash3: Originally Posted By pepe-lepew: The absolute best crimp removal is to sell the crimped brass and buy non-crimped brass. It is about cost neutral and you save a ton of time and wear on your hands. Crimp removal is not hard, and a great technique every reloader should learn. Once you get mixed brass it can become a.pain and hard on the hands. |
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From the "for what it's worth department" this is what I use: It's from CH4D. It's been around for umpteen years. It's swage method BTW and it uses your reloading press.
SWAGE ONLY KIT Item# 419001 $50.00 |
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Originally Posted By BobinNC: From the "for what it's worth department" this is what I use: It's from CH4D. It's been around for umpteen years. It's swage method BTW and it uses your reloading press. SWAGE ONLY KIT Item# 419001 $50.00 View Quote Huh, not seen that one, thanks! |
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The current issue is cleaning up about 2500 pieces of "processed" brass that I am having about 50% failure on primer seating. I quit trying, if primers don't go easily I stop (sure an occasional flared or dinged cup is one thing but this is a LOT). Going to do them all.
Diggin the simplicity of the Hornady rig currently. Just seems like getting the brass off the pilot inside a die might be an issue. Lot of good reviews, couple bad with the stuck issue, but maybe they are doing it wrong? I will try to post the pic of the RCBS reamer. |
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Originally Posted By BobinNC: From the "for what it's worth department" this is what I use: It's from CH4D. It's been around for umpteen years. It's swage method BTW and it uses your reloading press. SWAGE ONLY KIT Item# 419001 $50.00 View Quote If I didn’t already own a dillon super swage I could turn those swage rods on my lathe and pop them in to my RCBS Ram Priming Die. Neat! It looks easier to use than the old RCBS press mounted swager buttons. |
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Originally Posted By Aaron56: Not buying that bit about getting dull in 750 cases. Especially not buying the garbage about 'rounded off corners and rough edges'. That steel would have to be dead soft (and the steel in those bits are NOT that soft) before that tiny bit of brass trimming did anything noticeable to the edges on the RCBS tool. View Quote Didn't ask anyone to buy it, but to be honest I have a hard time believing it too. I keep a relatively open mind and given additional thought, I do wonder if brass buildup isn't the rounded/rough edge I see. Will look and even post a pic for inquiring minds. I don't think they would replace it, and I wouldn't spend the $10 to send it back. |
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I just ran into a batch of crimped WMA 9mm cases and it screwed up my reloading. I ended up sorting through that bag of brass to weed them out. Everything else was OK. I just don't find it's worth it to decrimp 9mm brass unless you end up with a big batch that you don't want to throw out.
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Daddy loves you. Now go away.
Ruthless ruler of cubicle B300.2C.983 |
Originally Posted By Zhukov: I just ran into a batch of crimped WMA 9mm cases and it screwed up my reloading. I ended up sorting through that bag of brass to weed them out. Everything else was OK. I just don't find it's worth it to decrimp 9mm brass unless you end up with a big batch that you don't want to throw out. View Quote I agree. |
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I use an aircraft style piloted countersink bit with a 100° angle, you will have to ground down the pilot if it isn't removable. Most of the countersink bits are 60 to 80 degrees and, IMO, these are too steep of an angle for case prep.
I did swage in the past and like many found it slow and tiresome. I fail to see how a swage tool can "magically" push the brass thats been displaced by crimping back into its original location, it can't since you can still see the crimp ring or punch marks. Which brings me to the final strike against swaging - the brass still looks as if it is crimped! This requires me to take a closer look and makes sorting cases even more time consuming. |
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"Technique isn't something that can be taught. It's something you find on your own." - Bunta Fujiwara
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