User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
|
Posted: 3/29/2024 8:17:00 PM EDT
[#1]
Thanks for the added input... fail-safe + springs around the PM funnel = best results
The new PM received has 2 small springs that wrap around the funnel instead of the single larger spring found on the prior version.  Attached File |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/29/2024 10:11:53 PM EDT
[#2]
If it were me, I would only run 1 of those springs.
The 2 spring set up was meant for use before the FS linkage came along. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/29/2024 10:48:38 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: If it were me, I would only run 1 of those springs. The 2 spring set up was meant for use before the FS linkage came along. Appreciate the input. I'll try one spring first along with the fail safe and weigh several charges to check consistency and feel. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/30/2024 9:55:25 PM EDT
[#4]
Just added a $25 camera to visually confirm powder is in the case without having to reposition myself while seated. Probably not needed if standing. It's 2MP 1080dpi and much clearer than the cheap camera I put on the balance beam. Can easily switch between cameras on the computer.
Also added a goose neck LED light that's dimmable. Helps to have adjustable lighting to get the clearest picture.  Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached FileJust need the fail-safe linkage to arrive to get started.... |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/30/2024 10:08:09 PM EDT
[#5]
Nice.
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/1/2024 10:38:17 AM EDT
[#6]
Looks nice! I have a Square Deal from the same era (pre "B") and I really like it.
I just run the PM as it came with the springs and I've not had any problem with it. For a brass bin I just hang the bin off the edge of the finished bullet bin and it has worked, but I like how your bracket works, I might have to look into making one some time. DF3 mentioned that the handle arm was weak in the early model. I broke mine a year or two ago. Dillon sent me a new one of the current reinforced design after I emailed them pics.  Attached File Attached File |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/1/2024 11:01:43 AM EDT
[#7]
Well done blowout. A+.
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/1/2024 12:44:34 PM EDT
[Last Edit: wildearp]
[#8]
 I just can't HTML today... 
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/1/2024 3:39:39 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TribunusSanGeorgii: Looks nice! I have a Square Deal from the same era (pre "B") and I really like it. I just run the PM as it came with the springs and I've not had any problem with it. For a brass bin I just hang the bin off the edge of the finished bullet bin and it has worked, but I like how your bracket works, I might have to look into making one some time. DF3 mentioned that the handle arm was weak in the early model. I broke mine a year or two ago. Dillon sent me a new one of the current reinforced design after I emailed them pics. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/408270/20230402_223058_jpg-3175488.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/408270/20230402_223017_jpg-3175490.JPG Wow, that just snapped off! Do you recall if it was while seating a primer or on the down stroke when it happened? I'm guessing seating a primer but I could be wrong. Had to trim the lip on the bin that sits on the OEM bracket in order to remove it once the new bracket was attached.  Attached File |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/1/2024 3:40:21 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Blowout]
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By DVCER: Well done blowout. A+. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By DVCER: Well done blowout. A+. Thanks! Originally Posted By wildearp: I just can't HTML today... We all have days like that... 
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/1/2024 3:48:58 PM EDT
[#11]
My first SDB press handle had cracks when Dillon sent me a recall letter.
Yes from priming. All that force pushing up. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/1/2024 4:02:31 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Blowout: Wow, that just snapped off! Do you recall if it was while seating a primer or on the down stroke when it happened? I'm guessing seating a primer but I could be wrong. Had to trim the lip on the bin that sits on the OEM bracket in order to remove it once the new bracket was attached. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/375214/bin_cut_jpg-3175704.JPG Yup, broke off on the priming stroke. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/2/2024 2:41:26 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Blowout]
[#13]
The handle on my press looks like this. Does this look like the old version? It almost looks reinforced at the break point shown in the earlier photo.
 Attached FileThe fail-safe linkage arrived today.  Attached FileDiscovered the new fail-safe push rod bought from Dillion had the hole for the cotter pin drilled too far from the end. It caused the rod to bind when the cotter pin was installed.  Attached FileDrilled a second hole closer to the end of the rod which fixed the issue.  Attached FileEasyDial also arrived. Just need to calibrate it now...  Attached File |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/2/2024 8:10:17 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Blowout: The handle on my press looks like this. Does this look like the old version? It almost looks reinforced at the break point shown in the earlier photo. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/375214/21_jpg-3176149.JPG snip Yes, that looks like the new handle. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/2/2024 12:47:07 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Blowout: The handle on my press looks like this. Does this look like the old version? It almost looks reinforced at the break point shown in the earlier photo. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/375214/21_jpg-3176149.JPG The fail-safe linkage arrived today. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/375214/25_jpg-3176146.JPG Discovered the new fail-safe push rod bought from Dillion had the hole for the cotter pin drilled too far from the end. It caused the rod to bind when the cotter pin was installed. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/375214/22_jpg-3176142.JPG Drilled a second hole closer to the end of the rod which fixed the issue. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/375214/23_jpg-3176143.JPG EasyDial also arrived. Just need to calibrate it now... https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/375214/24_jpg-3176148.JPG Couldn't find it in the instructions, so left it out. Works good without it. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/2/2024 2:44:27 PM EDT
[Last Edit: ScottyPotty]
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By -JC-: My personal opinion, keep the springs on top after upgrading the failsafe linkage below. The springs provide an extra layer of security and also have the added benefit of a "snap" that most people agree leads to a more consistent powder throw. There are quite a few videos out there on this topic. I've been running my powder measures with new failsafe + top springs for years. Congrats OP on the press, very cool. I keep thinking I need one of these, but have never came across the right deal. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/3/2024 2:21:34 AM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TribunusSanGeorgii: Yes, that looks like the new handle. Great, thanks for confirming this! |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/3/2024 2:35:11 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: Easy Dial, I could never figure out the part with a hole in it that looks like a electrical lug with a square solid end? Couldn't find it in the instructions, so left it out. Works good without it. I'm not sure what this piece is for.  Attached File |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/3/2024 2:40:53 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ScottyPotty: I hate the fail safe rods and run the springs. I heard about the myth of more consistent power drops so I did a test for my self and found the spring was a tiny bit better, but both were so close it would never matter. Congrats OP on the press, very cool. I keep thinking I need one of these, but have never came across the right deal. I plan to do a series of powder drops after calibrating the easydial. I might just try a couple options (with one and 2 springs attached) just to see if there's a measurable difference. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/3/2024 12:08:11 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Blowout: I'm not sure what this piece is for. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/375214/don_t_know_jpg-3176937.JPG @Blowout I think that piece is used to keep the dial assembly from rotating when the dial is chassis mounted in an electronic project application. The three dimples in the ring part lock into the dial bezel and the "blocky" looking thing on the tab locks into a square hole in the chassis. This locks the dial bezel to the chassis. Those dials are really intended for a multi-turn potentiometer in electronics applications. I have a bunch of them. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/3/2024 4:31:09 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Blowout: I'm not sure what this piece is for. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/375214/don_t_know_jpg-3176937.JPG |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/3/2024 4:34:32 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By KB7DX: @Blowout I think that piece is used to keep the dial assembly from rotating when the dial is chassis mounted in an electronic project application. The three dimples in the ring part lock into the dial bezel and the "blocky" looking thing on the tab locks into a square hole in the chassis. This locks the dial bezel to the chassis. Those dials are really intended for a multi-turn potentiometer in electronics applications. I have a bunch of them. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/3/2024 5:07:31 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: Thanks, if I'm understanding you correctly it not needed on a Dillon PM as the dial has a rod that fits into a hole in the plastic housing. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: Originally Posted By KB7DX: @Blowout I think that piece is used to keep the dial assembly from rotating when the dial is chassis mounted in an electronic project application. The three dimples in the ring part lock into the dial bezel and the "blocky" looking thing on the tab locks into a square hole in the chassis. This locks the dial bezel to the chassis. Those dials are really intended for a multi-turn potentiometer in electronics applications. I have a bunch of them. Correct. Not needed in the Dillon application. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/3/2024 7:12:59 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By KB7DX: Correct. Not needed in the Dillon application. 
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 4/4/2024 12:27:22 AM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By KB7DX: @Blowout I think that piece is used to keep the dial assembly from rotating when the dial is chassis mounted in an electronic project application. The three dimples in the ring part lock into the dial bezel and the "blocky" looking thing on the tab locks into a square hole in the chassis. This locks the dial bezel to the chassis. Those dials are really intended for a multi-turn potentiometer in electronics applications. I have a bunch of them. Thanks for the explanation. I’ll toss it! Sounds like you may have used this in another application. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 5/25/2024 3:06:25 PM EDT
[#26]
I’m ready to calibrate the EasyDial and wondered if
folks are adding a second baffle to the Dillon PM or just using the baffle already molded into the PM? Figure a second baffle should be added before any powder calibration is done if indeed it helps with consistency. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 5/25/2024 3:43:19 PM EDT
[#27]
I haven't added any additional baffles to any of my 20+ Dillon PM's equipped with Easy Dials.
Using proper technique, "tuning" and waxing I get exact drops with ball and flake powder. (even Unique) 800X the exception. Without tuning, the Dillon PM will drop ball exact and flake + or - .2 gr. Again "with proper technique". I use Red Dot (flake) in several calibers I load on the SDB, so a tuned PM makes loading small charges of Red Dot in 380 easy. To calibrate, screw in bolt of PM to just barely contact the housing (as in zero drop). Attach plastic shaft over head of bolt. Without moving the bolt, assemble the dial (set to 0.0 and lock engaged) align the pin, and tighten the tiny setscrew. You don't need to over torque it going into plastic. If you screw it up, Titan sells just that part. BTDT.  |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 5/25/2024 4:30:14 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Blowout]
[#28]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: I haven't added any additional baffles to any of my 20+ Dillon PM's equipped with Easy Dials. Using proper technique, "tuning" and waxing I get exact drops with ball and flake powder. (even Unique) 800X the exception. Without tuning, the Dillon PM will drop ball exact and flake + or - .2 gr. Again "with proper technique". I use Red Dot (flake) in several calibers I load on the SDB, so a tuned PM makes loading small charges of Red Dot in 380 easy. To calibrate, screw in bolt of PM to just barely contact the housing (as in zero drop). Attach plastic shaft over head of bolt. Without moving the bolt, assemble the dial (set to 0.0 and lock engaged) align the pin, and tighten the tiny setscrew. You don't need to over torque it going into plastic. If you screw it up, Titan sells just that part. BTDT. https://i.imgur.com/TGgW4l8l.jpg Thank you for your input! It's a new PM so for tuning is it just coating Johnson paste wax on the internal components and season with powdered graphite? This is my first Dillon PM so I'm in the crawling stage now. ETA: I ordered a easydial for a large bar instead of small. I mounted it and threw the packaging away before realizing what I had done. Dillon said the large EZdial will fit (I already knew that ), but it may not hold tight. Mine seems to be holding tight, but then again I haven't dropped any charges with it. I could epoxy in the void spaces top and bottom and then it absolutely would never move.  Attached File |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 5/25/2024 4:55:15 PM EDT
[Last Edit: dryflash3]
[#29]
"Tuning"= 1/2 x 3/4 length of scrap wood wrapped in 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper.
Take out powder bars and lightly go over all moving surfaces. We are just taking off the burrs. (says to do this in Easy Dial instructions) Same treatment for the powder bars, just a light touch on the corners where there could be burrs. Clean with clean rag and alcohol. Apply wax, let dry to haze and wipe off. Take off powder hopper, wax the inside of hopper, and the bottom of the PM, the existing baffle. I also do the round tube the powder flows through. I have 6 inch long wood handles Q tips that make this a snap. Just a piece of clean rag over the Q tip, to adjust it to the size you need. https://www.ar15.com/forums/armory/How-to-get-accurate-charges-with-powder-measures/42-520135/ Here is my thread where I describe what "proper technique" means to me. This works with all metal PM's. Don't have any Lee, so don't know about them. The only time I ordered the wrong size Easy Dial, i just kept it and ordered the correct size. Wasn't long and I added another caliber and used it there. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 5/25/2024 5:20:33 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Blowout]
[#30]
Appreciate your input... again!
I'll get at the PM today with some fine emery paper. I didn't notice any burrs before assembling the ezdial, but I might have missed something. I left a message to Paul at Titan to see what he thinks about the epoxy method. Have you used a large charge bar in any of your SDB's? ETA: Wow, Paul already got back and said he'd send me a small housing for the easydial. Now that's great CS!! |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 5/25/2024 5:28:02 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Blowout: Appreciate your input... again! I'll get at the PM today with some fine emery paper. I didn't notice any burrs before assembling the ezdial, but I might have missed something. I left a message to Paul at Titan to see what he thinks about the epoxy method. Have you used a large charge bar in any of your SDB's? ETA: Wow, Paul already got back and said he'd send me a small housing for the easydial. Now that's great CS!! Go to auto store get 400 grit wet/dry, used for many things in my shop. I've delt with Titan for awhile, not surprised. |
|
|
|
FL, USA
|
Posted: 5/25/2024 6:44:08 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By nhsport: I wouldn't use setscrews to hold the powder hopper on , I suspect the plastic wouldn't hold up well to pressure on only a small area. I would use some silicone caulk/bathtub sealant type of product. fairly strong adhesive but still possible to twist it off if needed. I love my Square deals , I have one set for lg primers and one for small . I load 380,9mm,38super , 38/357 ,45acp and 44sp/44mag. One press is usually on 45acp and the other 38/357 . these two are 90% of my shooting , every now and then I will install one of the other calibers and go to town yea, not changing primer size between .45 and 9mm would make setting up a second press a nice option. I sure do wish the square deal used std dies. That is what has kept me from swapping to a 550 or 650(just passed up a good deal on the 650) because my current loading volume lets me get away with a rock crusher for .45acp and rifle ammo, with just 9mm and occasional .38/357, .38 super on the sq deal. |
|
|
|
Posted: 5/25/2024 7:31:13 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By terry_tr6: yea, not changing primer size between .45 and 9mm would make setting up a second press a nice option. I sure do wish the square deal used std dies. That is what has kept me from swapping to a 550 or 650(just passed up a good deal on the 650) because my current loading volume lets me get away with a rock crusher for .45acp and rifle ammo, with just 9mm and occasional .38/357, .38 super on the sq deal.  I solved that by getting a SDB in every pistol caliber I load. It pays to be handy and able to rebuild $200 SDB funshow finds. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 5/25/2024 8:22:02 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By terry_tr6: yea, not changing primer size between .45 and 9mm would make setting up a second press a nice option. I sure do wish the square deal used std dies. That is what has kept me from swapping to a 550 or 650(just passed up a good deal on the 650) because my current loading volume lets me get away with a rock crusher for .45acp and rifle ammo, with just 9mm and occasional .38/357, .38 super on the sq deal. For a long time I was also turned off by the proprietary dies for the SD. But then I found a deal on a square deal (and no longer had access to my dad's 650 after moving out of state) so I jumped on it. Now that I have it I really like it. It came in 9mm and I've bought .45 dies but I load the SPP .45 so I don't have to switch primer systems and don't have to stock lots of LPP. That worked for a while but I load lots of .223 which the SD obviously won't load. So I got a 550 . Now I have a SD, 550, and rockchucker on the bench. SD does 9 and 45 550 does .223 and .30-06 (I have conversions to do .300blk and x54r but haven't set them up yet). Rockchucker does rifle brass prep and anything else in smaller amounts. That setup works well for me. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 5/25/2024 10:24:00 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: Not emery paper. What grit is it? You don't want scratches. 400 grit is just right. Go to auto store get 400 grit wet/dry, used for many things in my shop. I've delt with Titan for awhile, not surprised. Ended up using 000 steel wool. The aluminum is clear anodized and didn't want to remove too much material. No burrs found, just smoothed the aluminum surfaces up and waxed/polished everything. Should get the small size easydial housing to fit a small charge bar at the end of next week. Looks like all the plastic parts are 3D printed. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 5/25/2024 10:40:03 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Blowout: Ended up using 000 steel wool. The aluminum is clear anodized and didn't want to remove too much material. No burrs found, just smoothed the aluminum surfaces up and waxed/polished everything. Should get the small size easydial housing to fit a small charge bar at the end of next week. Looks like all the plastic parts are 3D printed. Yes, looks like printed parts in Dillon blue. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 5/26/2024 3:13:46 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Blowout]
[#37]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: Smooth is good, and with steel wool you would of found the burrs when the steel wool caught on it. Yes, looks like printed parts in Dillon blue. Thanks again for your insights tuning this PM! |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 5/26/2024 1:42:54 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Blowout: Thanks again for your insights tuning this PM!
|
|
|
|
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.
