I've had my little pre-ban baby since 1991, complete w/ butler creek folding pistol gripped stock, flash hider, weaver-rail mounted reddot, and hi-caps, etc.

I love this gun dearly, but the trigger absolutely sucks. I know the gun's internal workings like the back of my hand, so I'm confident I can do whatever it takes to make my trigger lighter- just tell me what I need to do.  I know that cutting springs and polishing can only go so far, so I know I'll need to purchase a new hammer and sear most likely-anything out there besides the pricey Volquartsen stuff?

I've got about $40 to make this project work- I want the lightest, shortest (but still functional) pull possible, with a short break/reset- I already know that I can fix overtravel on my own w/ a 2 cent stopper.

Any constructive ideas would be welcomed.

The best overall cheap trigger mod I have tried was the Volquartsen hammer.  $30.00 is'nt too bad and made a world of difference.

If you want to do it yourself, hit www.rimfirecentral.com for in-depth info.

Cheapest place online to buy that hammer?  What else would make a difference besides the hammer?  Trigger and springs? Other stuff?  

I replaced a couple of other pieces, but to tell you the truth, all you need to do is the hammer...amazing difference.  

The hammer comes with new springs, shims, can't remember what else.

I highly recommend these guys...

www.ontargetguns.com/10-22.html

POLISH THE STOCK HAMMER,

its free and if you do it right and good it will be comparable or better than a VQ.
worst case scenario, you fudge it up and gotta buy a new one.

the clark custom 1022 customize video shows some other tricks to modify the gun.

i also made a bolt buffer from rubber tubing, im not sure how the aftermarket ones work. but i cut a piece of tube to size, then a length-wise cut, to leave a 2mm opening, and clamp it over the metal bolt stop.
NOTE -- my tubing was undersize, 5/32 ID, so the correct size tube might work better, or differently.
dont know if it makes a difference in the guns performance or if i even needed it at all, but what the hell. it seems to stay on pretty good too.
i also thought about doing the same thing with the rubber tubing, but glueing it on the back of the bolt.

Quoted: The best overall cheap trigger mod I have tried was the Volquartsen hammer.  $30.00 is'nt too bad and made a world of difference. If you want to do it yourself, hit www.rimfirecentral.com for in-depth info.

This is the site where I obtained the knowledge to get my trigger to 1.5 to 2.0 lb.  

i bought a honed hammer from a guy on ebay and it works great. (i was too chicken to do it myself)  i also got a rounded trigger plunger and a new sear and disconnector,  and a bunch of other crap.

if yourinterested:
www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=7&f=47&t=174655

I have the Volquartsen hammer and trigger.  The trigger is plastic with an adjustable stop on it.  It makes it much better.  The trigger is about $25 or so from OnTarget.

what does a rounded trigger plunger do?
just makes a smoother pull?

VQ makes a metal trigger, but i dont think it has a set screw.
my bro has one, i still prefer the feel of the stock trigger with the deeper curve.

rounded trig plunger gets rid of the "gritty" feel in the pull.  for about $3, its well worth it.

Second on the Volq. hammer.  $30 part, smoothed and lightened the pull up like a champ on my 10/22.