Has anyone cut their own frame for their beavertail?

The guides are cheap enough that I'm considering doing it. I'm gonna check with my smith first to see what he'd charge, but I wondered if anyone elase had done it and what their thoughts are on DIY.

Good point. I got a nice deal on my 1911 (SA milspec for $399), so it'd be worth my time to have it done right. I don't like the look of the drop in 'tails. The fitted ones look like artwork.

I did it myself and you just have to be smart about it.  Go slow because you can always take off more material but you can't put it back on.  

First off, big hello to BadSVT.  I knew there was one other redneck Asian out there.  

As AJohnston said, there's a lot more to getting one to look good than just cutting the radius.  You can get one in that is functional, but here ae a few considerations.  First, though the jigs are cheap, you have to decide whether it will bother you to have the top unblended.  The top of the frame tangs will set higher than the top of the beavertail in most cases.  With Paras and Springfields, the tang will set lower than the top of the beavertail, unless you go to S&A's .220" radius beavertail, or Wilson Combats high ride beavertail.

If you just cut the radius, and do the required fitting on the inside, you will have a step at the back of the frame tangs.  Wilson Combat leaves it there on their guns, and I've rarely seen anyone complain about it, though I think it's ugly.  

If you decide to blend that area, you need to know what to use as far as bits so that you do not end up with file or cutting marks.  Also, you will need to refinish your frame, whether that means re-parking, re-bluing, or beadblasting stainless.  

Finally, if you decide to use any of the high ride BTs patterned after the Ed Brown, you will also need to re-radius the bottom of the frame tangs and back of the frame.  This is a very difficult thing to get right for a beginner.  Again, refinishing will be in order.