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Posted: 5/14/2005 9:38:37 AM EDT
Hey guys, I am sure this has been discussed before but I can't find anything.  I have owned my Browning HP for  about 8 years and have always considered removing the mag safety.  I am just wondering if someone can post the procedure or IM it to me so I can see if it is something I want to tackle on my own.  If there are directions somewhere else on the net that might be helpful too. Thanks.
Link Posted: 5/14/2005 3:14:18 PM EDT
[#1]
Midwayusa item432426 is an AGI video tape- 127 minutes on the Hi Power. I have no idea how detailed or good they are, but it may cover what you need. 34.95 plus shipping.

Any reviews on the AGI stuff?
Link Posted: 5/14/2005 5:22:10 PM EDT
[#2]

Quoted:
Hey guys, I am sure this has been discussed before but I can't find anything.  I have owned my Browning HP for  about 8 years and have always considered removing the mag safety.  I am just wondering if someone can post the procedure or IM it to me so I can see if it is something I want to tackle on my own.  If there are directions somewhere else on the net that might be helpful too. Thanks.



The was an original thread on this subject once upon a time but it was on the old fnhipower forum and unrecoverable I'm searching for an old post of it somewhere else if I find it I'll post it here.

RC

Found one link . . . go here handgunsandammo.proboards36.com/index.cgi?board=smithing&action=display&num=1109874696
Link Posted: 5/15/2005 9:26:00 AM EDT
[#3]
The reviews of the AGI tape I listed above were pretty dismal. I found another one:

www.arizonaresponsesystems.com/store/storemisc/pagestoremisc.htm

I'm trying to figure out how to put an 18.5# hammer spring in mine- may order this one and take a chance.

Link Posted: 5/16/2005 2:33:25 PM EDT
[#4]
I had the mag safety removed from mine and it made a world of difference in how the trigger is and consequently, how it and I shoot.

Do it. If you own any of the modern semi autos (Grock, Beretta, Sig) you should have no problem with the removal of the mag safety.
Link Posted: 5/17/2005 6:59:46 AM EDT
[#5]
I have removed them two ways...

You can support the trigger properly and then tap the mag disconnect pin out of the trigger.  The plunger can be then be removed, along with the spring.

Or, you can remove the entire trigger assembly.  Tap out the trigger pin.   It is tapered, so put your punch on the narrow end and drive pin through the larger hole.  When you get the assembly out, then drive out the pin in the trigger.

You might want to use masking tape around the area to protect the finish.  They can be tight.
Link Posted: 5/17/2005 7:06:47 AM EDT
[#6]

Quoted:
The reviews of the AGI tape I listed above were pretty dismal. I found another one:

www.arizonaresponsesystems.com/store/storemisc/pagestoremisc.htm

I'm trying to figure out how to put an 18.5# hammer spring in mine- may order this one and take a chance.





18.5# is the increased recoil spring (which is a good thing to have in your gun).  Hammer springs are heavier than that.  You can find some at Wolff gunsprings.

Replacing hammer springs is a little tricky, but not too bad.

A great reference source is the book by Stephen Camp.  I think it is about $15 or so.  Contact him here: [email protected]
Link Posted: 5/17/2005 9:16:36 AM EDT
[#7]
Right, I bought them as a set. They were referenced by the recoil spring. I took a flyer and ordered the vid from arizona response. Shipping Thursday USPS. Probably arrive next week. Will lay on the Jiffy Pop and give a review. It's 30.00 for 2 hour 40 minute tape.
My problem is removing the flat strip in front of the hammer spring. I figured if I couldn't get THAT off, without possibly inappropriate force, I should get some info. Plus, the hammer spring is retained by a nut and is going to come off with some force unless restrained and eased off (in my ignorant opinion).
I hope this is a good video. The guy at arizona response said he was behind the production of it, prompted by the quality of the AIG product.
Link Posted: 5/17/2005 9:33:36 AM EDT
[#8]
You have to remove the sear pin, which lets you remove the ejector, safety, sear, and hammer assembly, and flat sear spring (the piece you mentioned).  Pull the hammer back slightly, and tap the sear spring out.  It is not tapered so it will go out either way.  Keep pressure on hammer as you tap the pin out. After you remove the pin, the ejector rotates down by about 90 degrees.  This allows the safety to come off.

To change the hammer spring you will need to close your vise, leaving enough room to put the strut through it.  Place it through on an angle, so you can compress the spring, then remove the pin from the nut and unscrew the nut.

Reverse the process to put on your new, lighter spring.
Link Posted: 5/24/2005 8:41:42 AM EDT
[#9]
I viewed the Hi Point video from www.arizonaresponsesystems.com and I would endorse it to anyone interested in stripping a Hi Power. The host, Mark Graham, takes an old Hi Power and completely disassembles it. He shows the tools needed and indicates where in the process you have to take the necessary care so as not to damage your Hi Power. He installs a Cylinder and Slide trigger, after cleaning it up (they are pretty rough from C&S), bobs the hammer, de-horns the pistol, installs new Wolff springs, stiples the backstrap, and re-assembles. Graham has a good presence and doesn't put you to sleep with a monotone (I watched it after 10 p.m., when I have been known to saw a few logs).
It was worth the 30.00 for me. Shipped Thursday USPS and received Monday.
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