I have a collectible 10mm that I want to shoot every once in a great while.. Most guys recommend a load equivalent to .45ACP or slightly higher... What bullet and load level would give me enough oomph to cycle the gun but still keep it on the light and non damaging ( to the gun) side?

I have heard that powder burns from front to back in the cartridge ( bullet base to primer) and I should use a powder that I have to use more of in volume to get the velocity I want rather than a smaller amt of a faster burning powder. So that it doesnt burn from both front and back at the same time and give me a detonation in the middle of the round. Guy I talked to said that that can be as bad as a BIG overcharge.

Is this correct?

Anyone?

Quoted: I have a collectible 10mm that I want to shoot every once in a great while.. Most guys recommend a load equivalent to .45ACP or slightly higher... What bullet and load level would give me enough oomph to cycle the gun but still keep it on the light and non damaging ( to the gun) side? I have heard that powder burns from front to back in the cartridge ( bullet base to primer) and I should use a powder that I have to use more of in volume to get the velocity I want rather than a smaller amt of a faster burning powder. So that it doesnt burn from both front and back at the same time and give me a detonation in the middle of the round. Guy I talked to said that that can be as bad as a BIG overcharge. Is this correct?

Any starting load or any load about 1/2 way into the listed loads for that powder/bullet combination.

As far as direction, how does the powder at the front of the case get ignited when the primer is in the back?

The light load "detonation" phenomena has never been duplicated! The powder manufactures have spent millions trying to produce and can't. I am sure the scientists at Mythbusters could by placing a primed stick of dynamite at the muzzle…

If the loads are within the reloading tables you are not going to ever have a problem.

Thanks!   That was what I wanted to know! The guy that runs a local reloading shop, who is closing and doing all of his stuff online, told me about the detonation bit. Thats why I was asking.

I reload for a Glock 20 - everything from 135 grain to 200 grain bear killers.

As a general rule of thumb for 10mm, everything published at the top of the velocity range for .40 S&W is going to be in the high-middle of the velocity range for 10mm.

My favorite powders for 10mm are Power Pistol, Universal Clays and Alliant No. 7. I've tinkered with IMR 800, but that's for ball-busters.