I just bought anew in the box Romanian GP WASR-10 AK47 and there is no muzzle device but there is a spot welded nut is there threading under the muzzle nut? and if there is threading under it after I cut the spot weld, which way do I turn the nut to remove it... clockwise or counter clockwise? and is it 14mm with a left hand twist?





The sling that came with the AK does not work, the leather strap does not fit through the foward sling bracket. Whats this all about?





My mags wobble front to back and side to side ther is a lot of play due to the lack of dimples, is there anyway to fix this century f-up?





I do not have a bayonet lug on my gas block, I know where I can purchase one to replace it but is it hard to re-align it?





Thanks,
762

I'm no expert by any means, but I'm pretty sure that's not a GP WASR-10.  

yup, just sounds like a WASR hicap

I just replaced my WUM 1 with bayonet lug parts.  All you need is vice grips or a vise.  hammer and good eyesight.

Quoted: I just bought anew in the box Romanian GP WASR-10 AK47 and there is no muzzle device but there is a spot welded nut is there threading under the muzzle nut? and if there is threading under it after I cut the spot weld, which way do I turn the nut to remove it... clockwise or counter clockwise? and is it 14mm with a left hand twist? some are some arent if it is its 14x1lh The sling that came with the AK does not work, the leather strap does not fit through the foward sling bracket. Whats this all about? the hook end goes on the front My mags wobble front to back and side to side ther is a lot of play due to the lack of dimples, is there anyway to fix this century f-up? jb weld and a file or weld a thin piece of metal in I do not have a bayonet lug on my gas block, I know where I can purchase one to replace it but is it hard to re-align it? do a search it common question Thanks, 762

Quoted: Quoted: I just bought anew in the box Romanian GP WASR-10 AK47 and there is no muzzle device but there is a spot welded nut is there threading under the muzzle nut? and if there is threading under it after I cut the spot weld, which way do I turn the nut to remove it... clockwise or counter clockwise? and is it 14mm with a left hand twist? some are some arent if it is its 14x1lh The sling that came with the AK does not work, the leather strap does not fit through the foward sling bracket. Whats this all about? the hook end goes on the front My mags wobble front to back and side to side ther is a lot of play due to the lack of dimples, is there anyway to fix this century f-up? jb weld and a file or weld a thin piece of metal in I do not have a bayonet lug on my gas block, I know where I can purchase one to replace it but is it hard to re-align it? do a search it common question Thanks, 762

kletus,
my sling has leather straps on both ends and they are like belts with holes for adjustments

and the jb weld thing sounds like a damn good idea
will it withstand solvents?  is there a chance they will screw with the chemical compound of jb weld?

Quoted: I'm no expert by any means, but I'm pretty sure that's not a GP WASR-10.

its stamed GP WASR-10 ROMANIA

Quoted: Quoted: I'm no expert by any means, but I'm pretty sure that's not a GP WASR-10.   its stamed GP WASR-10 ROMANIA

Like I said, no expert.  I just thought that all GP's had lugs and breaks.  

Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: I'm no expert by any means, but I'm pretty sure that's not a GP WASR-10.   its stamed GP WASR-10 ROMANIA Like I said, no expert.  I just thought that all GP's had lugs and breaks.

i was under the same impression.  where did you get it? how much did you pay?

Ibought it at dunhams in bridgeville pa it was the last one left on the last day of the sale I paid $325.95 out the door

I cut the weld pulled the pin and there was threading and I put a digital caliper to it and it is a 14mmXlh yes I am so happy I need a slant break or a 74 style brake

Quoted: I cut the weld pulled the pin and there was threading and I put a digital caliper to it and it is a 14mmXlh yes I am so happy I need a slant break or a 74 style brake

I hope you didn't really PULL the pin!? They push in with a spring backing.

I also have a WASR that had the Muzzle nut welded on. I thought I was sure it had threads under that nut so I put on that little small rust colored cut-off wheel on my Dremel and went to work.

After carefully removing the weld and not any other material from the rifle, the index pin finally worked as it had not before. The nut was just tight against it but when it was loosened it was freed from tension. When I removed my nut there where 14x1mm LHT.

I was happy; although they were sloppy threads. They were all straight, but when I installed two other brakes they were loose and had a wobble to them. Just stick with the original AK slant brake. I used an AK-74 style, and even with a fabricated washer behind it, the slugs were glancing of the end of the brake causing some problems when shot; it was three feet high and to the left. way off the paper. LOL.  I didn't notice this right away ( I did notice I wasn't hitting the paper though) but afterwards it was quite evident that the bullets where hitting the brake. It seems that the threads on my gun are just a lil larger then they're supposed to be. That's Century Arms for ya.
>Or see my post for more info here<
You might be a bit more lucky than I was, even I measured the threads on mine as well.

Stick with the original AK-47 slant brake. It might not look as cool as the AK-74 style but it works.

Quoted: The sling that came with the AK does not work, the leather strap does not fit through the foward sling bracket. Whats this all about? I do not have a bayonet lug on my gas block, I know where I can purchase one to replace it but is it hard to re-align it?

Thesling you have is the same one that came with mine. That thing is sofa king ugly and like you said, "it doesn't even fit" what's up with that. I still have mine, you could put a clip on one end like I did so it will fit the slot.


As for your Gas block, that's a lil more tricky.

Quoted: I just replaced my WUM 1 with bayonet lug parts.  All you need is vice grips or a vise.  hammer and good eyesight.

 THIS IS NUTS!!!!

The easiest way to remove the front sight and gas block from your AK is to use a hydraulic press. If you don't have one a simple 12 ton press can be purchased here for $99.99. It is also good for removing the barrel from the front trunion and squeezing rivets among other things. NEVER USE A HAMMER!!!!

You would have to first remove the FSB (front sight block) by removing the pin/pins on the lower half. Most of the time these pins need to be knocked out left to right  With the right side being the ejection port side. Lube her up real good first with Kroil. Take your pin punch and press and lay the rifle down on its right side with left side facing up, it's a good idea to get something  to hold the rifle flat and firm, or if you have a vise, rap a towel around the rifle a secure it.  Slowly increase the pressure until they start to come out. then do the same to the gas block and make a jig out of something to press them off the barrel verticlly.

It's a lot of work for a bayonet, Hey?

I once recommended to a guy to use JB weld or PC-7 (is better) to affix a piece into the receiver to correct his mag wobble. The PC-7 should not be affected by chemical as long as it is completely cured. It should be totally impervious to most chemicals. Not sure about acids or some alkalis. But what are you really going to put in your gun any way?

Hope that helps

Ciao'