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Posted: 3/14/2006 6:08:01 PM EDT
I've determined that removing a barrel pin is as satisfying as herding cats.
So far I've managed to make the first little budge but then nothing. barrel is in the freezer right now taking a break. My AK building days may be over before they've even begun  -Matt |
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Posted: 3/14/2006 6:18:26 PM EDT
[#1]
Is it a Romy "G" kit? Some have reported the interference fit on the barrel pin is stupid. Many have had to drill them out.
Hootbro |
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Posted: 3/14/2006 6:19:07 PM EDT
[#2]
 builder ....and the barrel pin wins for now  Did you atleast soak the pin ???PB blaster works |
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Posted: 3/14/2006 6:20:01 PM EDT
[#3]
Correct. Rommy G This is Fucking stupid how tight it is. My press screams no more then breaks ram bits in two 
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Posted: 3/14/2006 6:22:12 PM EDT
[#4]
Next question...Are you using a quaility pin remover or something you made???
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Posted: 3/14/2006 6:38:22 PM EDT
[#5]
I had to use a cobalt bit and a big F'ing hammer. Broke 2 punches but got it out. If you need a new barrel pin you can get them from global trades. Buy an extra one while your at it.
edit: use a good penetrating oil and let it soak. Some one recommend using a little heat at the opposite end of where most of your oil is pooled. The heat allows the oil to flow to the other side and eventually I punched it out. Careful not to ruin your rear sight. At the least pop it in the up position if using the Big Hammer method on a 2x4 on a cement floor with a hole drilled out for the barrel pin. |
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Posted: 3/14/2006 6:56:38 PM EDT
[#6]
Soak it in PB blaster, freeze and press it out.
My 12 ton press is the best $133 I have spent. FREE |
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Posted: 3/14/2006 6:56:48 PM EDT
[#7]
I beat on mine for hours with a big hammer,came online for advise,got a 10-15 dollar air chissle and got it out second try.
It jumps around so you might have to drill a hole in some scrap metal and clamp it on the tang so you wont scar it. The chissle punched out all my rivets after I ground them flush. Great investment! Good luck |
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Posted: 3/14/2006 7:21:37 PM EDT
[#8]
Got it out.
 I was going to quit for the night but I couldnt let it beat me. I welded a piece of drill bit onto the end of a 5/16'' bolt. Turned it down to size and heat treated it. Put that sucker in the ram press and never looked back. Should have done this to start with. PS i didn tknow there was a Quality Pin Pusher avaiable? I thought it was all DIY |
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Posted: 3/14/2006 7:25:40 PM EDT
[#9]
Is there such thing? because I want one myself. |
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Posted: 3/14/2006 7:31:41 PM EDT
[#10]
   i'm glad to see you got it anyway. pita arn't they. |
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Posted: 3/15/2006 4:14:07 AM EDT
[#11]
That freezer trick really does work , also ive found that using a 5/32" bit to drill out the very center makes life much easier too .
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Posted: 3/15/2006 5:21:41 AM EDT
[#12]
Curtis' barrel removal kit on
www.ak-builder.com is the best way I've found to remove the barrel pin. There are free vids available on his website, which show how to use the tools. Always soak the pin with Kroil/PBBlaster/etc first. |
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Posted: 3/15/2006 7:59:00 AM EDT
[#13]
PB Blaster &
Two Words. AIR Chistle |
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Posted: 3/15/2006 1:23:03 PM EDT
[#14]
the trick is getting it supported well and pressing straight, support the assy. as level as you can even if it takes 5-10 min. to get it done well, then do the same with your punch or pusher tool, it should be dead center on the ram and barrel pin. using a short 1/4 allen bolt works well to get it started, make sure it dosen't squirm when you start pushing, if the press stalls before first ''pop'' try tapping around pin with hammer. i've tried many things over the years and haven't found anything to work better, if you set it up square and on center you won't need to mess with the freezer, heat or lube. imho, my romy pin was easy? i had an amd65 that was much tighter.
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Posted: 3/15/2006 9:59:42 PM EDT
[#15]
+1 on what offroader said..
Everything must line up straight, and supported. If your punch bends under the ram, you are not pushing straight against the pin. Also be sure to support the rear sight base, this will help keep everything lined up.. Once everything is straight, and you have the ram tightened down on the punch. Wrap a heavy cloth around the area to catch flying debris, I use a old field jacket, and give her hell.. It will move, it has to.. |
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Posted: 3/17/2006 3:56:55 PM EDT
[#16]
i remember seeing a tool someone made that fit on the end of the ram, it basically mounded the punch to the ram when you were using it. oh and im glad that i built my press with that 20 ton air jack, thats a hell of a lot easier than pumping it a lot lol
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Posted: 3/17/2006 10:50:25 PM EDT
[#17]
man i think i lucked out, i just soaked my romy G in a little oil and gave it some force in a vice and it poped right out, barrel slid out nice and smooth with a gear puller, the barrel went back in with a few good wacks with a plastic hammer and a little polishing of parts and some lithium grease, barrel pin slid right back in with the vice. went so smooth
 my G kit looked to be unfired, had almost perfect wood too 
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Posted: 3/18/2006 4:02:05 AM EDT
[#18]
question....on the re-build, why does the bbl pin have to be a tight fit, other than to keep it from falling out from vibration? wouldn't a pin w/cross-hole & spring clip work?just wondering...
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Posted: 3/19/2006 7:53:24 AM EDT
[#19]
i would say to keep your headspacing correct is why it is so tight, because I know i found out one time by mistake and carelessness, of assuming that if the pin can go in there its all lined up correctly right, which i was wrong and had to press it out of the finished barrel and then move the barrel forward to get it lined up which was a pita. Thats my best guess.
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