Shooting coated case ammo in the AR rifles does require a bit of foresight on the shooters part.

First off, the coating will scrap off the case in tiny amounts and becomes powderized fouling (think of it as trace amounts of graphite).  As this powderized fouling builds up in the chamber, the spent case is more surfaced tensioned bound to the chamber walls, and it this additional tension/fouling binding is strong enough, it will either cause the B/C's inertia to be slowed/lost to the point that the rifle will short stoke, or even worse, the case is stuck in the chamber.  Like gun powder fouling in the rifle, CLP will help to prevent the case coating powderized fouling to build to the point that it will cause cycling problems in the rifle.

Starting with all the upper bearing surfaces coated with a light coat of CLP, the rifle should perform without problems for several hundred of rounds. But depending on the rifle/chamber, you may find that pulling the B/C every 200 rounds to apply a fresh coat of CLP to it, then working the CLP coated BC in the action a few times to all it to migrate threw the action, will solve most of the problems assisted with the coated ammo problems in the AR rifles.

Next step to remember is that CLP or any other copper solvent will not dissolve or break down Polyurethane or lacquer.  To remove this type of fouling, it must be scrubbed out when cleaning the rifle.
Note: Acetone will dissolve these coatings, but will also dissolve the plastic parts use on the rifle as well.

To sum it up, the rifle should be cleaned and lubed with CLP only, and when copper solvents are used to clean the bore, these solvents should be flushed from the rifle to prevent them and the CLP to mix; leading to a gummy mess that will only collect fouling even faster.

Quoted: i just started having the same problem also but it is with brass cased ammo to i also shot wolf but after last time at range i cleaned chamber real good and went out today same thing so i cleaned again and will try tommarow

If the rifle ran fine before, then started acting up even when cleaned, it may be time to conform that the carrier key screws are still tight (35 in lbs).

Quoted: Also check to see that your gas ring gaps are not lined up, or close to being lined up.

This is a huge misconception,

When the rifle is fired, the gas rings will be in motion/rotation, and at any given time the rings splits may line up, or be non-aligned.

Simple put, I have completely lost a gas ring off the bolt of a rig, and it still ran with out problems on only the two.

Quoted: Have you ever tried it? Are you just speaking from hearsay

Dude, You’re a funny guy!!!!!!

I burn to the ground more firearms in a good year than you might own in a lifetime (no-joke).
There is nothing Hearsay about anything that I post in this forum, and most of the time, it's more of a teaching/trouble shooting through lessons learned by my own experiences and mistakes.

Mototard,
Others, and myself have proven that the alignment of the gas rings has no effect on the rifle functioning or not, time and time again, threw live fire testing.  If you feel that we are wrong in our conclusions, by all means, prove our finding incorrect through your own testing.

I apologies if you construed my post as a slam (it was not), and I should have waited for when I had more time to re-proof my post to confirm that the humor used, was not too dry or off-key.

Now on the other hand, as dry as the opening joke line was, your response was quite over the top, and I suggest that you check your fire.  Failure to do so with me, or other moderators will end with results that will not be to your liking.


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Zmanzman,
Take a look at this thread since your problems may be steaming from residual Polyurethane powderized fouling still remaining within the camber if in fact the key to carrier leak or gas system leak is not the problem.

http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=66&t=273132