FTF, rounds not stripping off the mag, can see a light scratch on the top of the non-fed case, i can pull back the bolt and load manually no problem. it happended every round or every other round once it started

multiple magazines, wolf ammo, 16" bushmaster "M4", stock trigger, bolt, extractor, etc

just started happening all of a sudden after like 700 rds thru it w/o cleaning

Since everyone knows that the AR rifle never requires cleaning,  all I can say is it like the saying,
"You can't get there from here".


P.S. You do know that Tweak is going to nail your ass to the cross for being a post whore here in the trouble shooting forum.

Quoted: Since everyone knows that the AR rifle never requires cleaning,  all I can say is it like the saying, "You can't get there from here". .

not sure exactly what your saying, but if your trying to say if FTF b/c i did not clean it for 700rds a rifle should not jam with less than 1,000-1,500rds thru it

does the bolt lock back on the last round fired?

not sure, that was functioning fine before the FTF's. never got thru a full mag after it started to jam, only shot about 10 after the problems started

Quoted: Quoted: Since everyone knows that the AR rifle never requires cleaning,  all I can say is it like the saying, "You can't get there from here". . not sure exactly what your saying, but if your trying to say if FTF b/c i did not clean it for 700rds a rifle should not jam with less than 1,000-1,500rds thru it

Dude,
Your shooting the dirtiest ammo made*, and wondering why it didn’t go the 1000 rounds before a jam.  Unless the action was swimming in CLP from the start, you were lucky to have gotten past the 300 round mark before a jam on the new rifle.  

The trick to running wolf ammo, due to the quicker accumulated fouling, is to add a few drops of CLP into the action every 300 rounds (introduced threw the exhaust ports with the bolt partial opened). This additional CLP allows the system to semi flush itself of the quicker accumulating (over average ammo) building fouling.

So to sum it up, if your going to run Wolf ammo, a little extra CLP in the action is going to be your best friend.  Also, when you do go to clean the chamber, remember that it will take Acetone to break down any poly fouling that may have bonded to the chamber walls (regular firearm solvent doesn’t work).


*Wolff ammo uses triple based gunpowder, and the poly coating does scratch off causing an additional powderized fouling.


P.S. Sorry if it seemed that I was busting your balls, just thought that with the number of rounds fired and the fact that you stated wolf ammo, your post was meant as a joke/sarcasm.

i cleaned it up today, it was NOT extremely dirty and i did not find anything obiously wrong with the carrier or bolt.

oh and i ran a bore snake thru the weapon at about 400 rds and put a drop or two of clp on the carrier and along the reciever.

this was one of my first trips out with a cav arms stock that came with a new spring and buffer(CAR buffer). dont know if that was acontributing factor

how often does the bolt have to be completely dissambled?

i have like 2000rds total thru the rifle w/o dissambling the bolt ever, just blasting it with brake cleaner then spraying clp in there

RTFM, you can find it here www.ar15.com/content/manuals/ under operators manual for the M16.

Not only is wolf relatively dirty but it is weak as well.  Both of these factors add up to having to clean the rifle more often.  I can get about 400-500 through my A2 before I either have to relube or clean.

It is possible that the buffer spring is too stiff, leading to short recoil issues.  I assume you are using that car buffer with a carbine length buffer tube, right?

carrier key appears tight double checked, they were a little loose so i torqued them down

i took it out again this week after cleaning it up real good. still same problems, with multiple magazines

does the gas tube ever need to be cleaned? i thought this was decided to be self cleaning to a large extent?

after todays problems:

i blasted some brake cleaner down the gas tube followed with a couple pipe cleaners, which came out pretty clean. i also dissasembled the bolt this afternoon and got all the carbon out of the back part of the bolt

the rifle has had a cav arms m4 stock with cav spring + buffer for the past 1k rounds. mabey this spring it too stiff or the buffer not quite heavy enough (though i have never heard of problems with these components)
i swapped in my old spring and buffer in there

going out again tomorrow...

FIXED

it was the carrier key not being tight enough. worked for 200 rds after i torqued them down, it started ftf again, checked carier key bolts LOOSE again (did not peen them the last time or whatever you call it)

i searched and it seems this is a common issue with bushmaster    

Quoted: Quoted: i searched and it seems this is a common issue with bushmaster     indeed it is and a continuing one at that.

Well actually, my rifle had problems because the gas key wasn't perfectly flat/true to the machined bolt carrier. After lapping the gas key and retorquing the bolts, it appears to be fully operational w/ Wolf. It was a RRA bolt-carrier group assembly (everything was RRA).
It would function fine with XM193/M855, the hot stuff, but not cycle Wolf and cycle SAAMI .223 cartridges 95% or more of the time.

I made a note in my AR-15 notes to check the gas key on any future builds. Lap the gas key, apply sealant, apply threadlocker to bolts, torque to 45 in-lb, and stake the key.