I have three of gen 2 SS rails. Two of mine have come loose during recoil and the lock-tite does fix them, both on non 5.56 calibers. I ruined one rail by over tightening the clamp screws trying to get it to stay in place which MI replaced NQA. I also had a plastic rail section split at 30 inch-pounds and MI sent me out a new set of steel ones (not just a single replacement, an entire set) which they had to scrounge up since they do not make them anymore. So nobody, I mean nobody can complain about MI's customer service. Perfect their product may not be but they will stand behind it 100% so if you cannot live with it, they will make it right by you.
But, two of my forends did walk under recoil and I do remove my rails fairly often because I never leave anything alone for long. People don't like that, tough. I remove my rails. They are my rails and I will remove them if I want. Using Blue or Green Lock-Tite the rails do not walk and they do not require heat to remove them. Just loosen the screws and take them out then twist. They come off easily but do not move under the .30 HRT or the .458 SOCOM any more. I do not think the forend is perfect because it will slip if you have more recoil than the 5.56 and I do not like the current plastic rail sections, and it may be that Lock-Tite is a bandaid fix to the slipping problems, but sometimes a band-aid is all that is needed. Will I buy another, you bet I will. They are light weight, more than strong enough for anything I will ever use them for and as far as mil-spec is concerned, I could not care less if they are or not. Everything thing I have tried to put on them has fit with no problem what so ever. I am on a waiting list for my 4th and so far as I am concerned the forend is a fine forend and will serve you well for many years. I have no reservations recommending them or using them. So what if you have to put a drop or two of lock-tite on it to keep it from shifting? You have to put blue lock-tite on scope rings too to keep them from loosening and nobody will say that your scope rings are inferior for using lock-tite on them.
I get so sick of this fan boy stuff that if you say anything negative at all you are flamed, especially if you say anything about a flavor of the month. And then there are those that chime in on every thread to trash whatever company it is because it is not their chose company. "You have crap because you didn't buy XXXX." IMO those people are ruining ARFCOM. Everyone turns out a less than perfect product once in a while. The Gen II SS may not be perfect but it is pretty darned good. That slipping problem on anything with more recoil than 5.56 is less than ideal but the lock-tite does fix it. What else does one want? If that had been put in the directions from the get-go nobody would be calling it a half-assed fix, they would think it was designed that way.
My TROY Alpha rail is a whole lot more of a PITA to put on than the MI. Those damned clamps never want to say put without twisting while tightening. Too tight and they won't slip over the nut. Too loose and they fall off, just right and they still twist and you need to hold them in place while you tighten them. And you need to, what's this you say, put LOCK-TITE on the screws to keep them from vibrating loose. Does that mean the TROY Alpha rail is half-assed too? You have to band-aid the screws with lock-tite to keep them from backing off? Frankly I do not yet trust the TROY tri-clamp method of holding the rail on at all. Maybe over time I will but right now, after just a few months use, I still don't trust those screwy clamp screws. I'd much rather have the MI type system even if it is not as clean looking and you have to, God forbid, use lock-tite on the exterior of the barrel nut. Even TROY has this less than perfect as far as I am concerned but God forbid you say anything negative about any TROY product. They are only slightly behind LaRue as being untouchable unless you just want to kiss the ring.