With Moly Resin, you can use a cheap Badger 350 or Testors airbrush, such as you find in hobby shops or plastic model section of toys at Wally World. $15-$20. I use the same airbrush for doing model train locos and cars, weathering effects, etc.
Moly Resin is VERY easy to spray, and it is almost impossible to make it run or drip. It is ready to spray straight from the bottle (shake well, shake some more). No thinning necessary.
Like any finish, the secret is having the part well degreased and clean.
I used ordinary lacquer thinner, the cheap stuff (Kleen Strip) in a gallon can, as a degreaser, and for cleanup after spraying.
After spraying, it is almost dry to the touch. You can handle it in a few minutes. You can bake (to cure) it right away, 1 hr at 300*F.
After baking to cure, as soon as it has cooled down enough to touch, you can assemble.
This is not a thick coating like paint. It is very thin, no need to mask barrel or buffer tube threads, plug holes. Just spray.
Ever notice how on a new rifle, the anodized upper, the charging handle latch scratches the anodizing almost right away? Well, Moly Resin will take MUCH longer to scratch. It is a very hard, scratch resistant coating.
This used to be a VERY ugly spray painted Essential Arms gray lower. The upper is one of the LAR Grizzly "blemished" uppers:
And a nice match with Armalite OD furniture:
Here is the A1 upper that used to be on the formerly ugly spray painted rifle in the first picture. I used Flat Black (Socom) Moly Resin. It matches the factory anodized finish on this DPMS lower perfectly.