For maximum wear resistance, nothing beats annodizing. It coats the entire surface of the aluminum with aluminum oxide. This is the stuff that sand paper is made of, very hard.
The alloy used in the cast parts will annodize, but will not take the dye. So, just seal the annodizing in boiling water as per instructions, then put one of the bake on coatings and you are done.
John Norrells MolyCote is what I am used to using, and it works great. It is solvent proof, I tested every solvent I could find. An advantage of the spray and bake finishes is very easy touch-up, something you can not do with a dyed-annodized finish. If you really use your weapon, it will get scratches and dings.
The forged and billet cut lowers will take the dye after annodizing. Were I to build one of those, I would still use the spray and bake coating as a final finish for the corrosion resistance and ease in refinishing.
BTW, John Norrells instructions for the removal of his coatings list sand blasting as the only way to remove them, no solvent will do it.