I just found out the warehouse next to mine does Depot level maintenance on M16's! I spoke with the guy (I see him everyday) and got his opinion on some procedures, such as replacing barrels, etc. His 22 years of knowledge answered alot of questions for me.

I asked him to clear-up this whole "barrel replacement" battle that rages on about proper torqueing, etc. This is the method he uses:

1. He does not use a torque wrench
2. He tightens as far as he can (w/barrel wrench/bar) to line up the next notch
3. If it won't align, he lightly sands the receiver face using 1000 wet/dry on a square surface (figure 8 pattern, about 10 passes) and tries again. He repeats this until the next notch aligns. He said the sanding techique is perfectly safe, as you would have to remove an awful lot of material to mess anything up.

He also filled me in on some other techiques for doing certain things easier. He's gonna come get me the next time he does a barrel replacement. Cool!

As you pick his brain, please remember to keep sharing the wealth!

Oh, BTW he says actual spec on torque for the barrel nut is 38ftlbs--though he doesn't use a torque wrench.

His tip on removing the gas tube roll-pin:
He uses an early M16 firing pin (harder than newer versions) and "breaks" the pin loose, then uses the punch to drive it the rest of the way. He said the punch the Army provides has a very long shaft and bends easily.

To get a tight fitting gas tube out of the sight tower, he sprays it with WD-40, then grabs it gently w/vise-grips w/leather on the jaws--then lightly taps the vise-grips w/small ball-peen hammer unitl it breaks free of the forging.

more tips to come....

I never worried about torqing the barrel of one of my ARs.  The barrel is on as tight as my hands can put it on, and after almost 1/2 case of ammo (some in FA) I have never had any problems.


BISHOP

As already stated, [b]Keep 'em coming![/b]