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Posted: 6/26/2019 8:28:16 AM EDT
Installed a brand new sr07 tape switch with tail cap and at first when I would press momentary on or constant on, it would turn on and the light would immediately dim. I took the tail cap off and blew it out and cleaned it even though it was brand new. Put it back together and that fixed it but I swear the light is just a hair not as bright as when I use the clicky cap. It could just be in my head though. Anyone have any similar experiences with this?
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Quoted:
Installed a brand new sr07 tape switch with tail cap and at first when I would press momentary on or constant on, it would turn on and the light would immediately dim. I took the tail cap off and blew it out and cleaned it even though it was brand new. Put it back together and that fixed it but I swear the light is just a hair not as bright as when I use the clicky cap. It could just be in my head though. Anyone have any similar experiences with this? View Quote |
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I have had basically the same problem.
I fixed it one time by putting in new batteries and the 2nd time I unplugged the switch and made sure I plugged it back it as tight as possible and also made sure the wire wasn't twisted cause that can sometimes cause it and if it still happens just made sure the wire isn't crimped anywhere and turn the plug that goes into the tailcap just a little and that sometimes will fix it also. If not then you probably have either a bad connection or a faulty wire going into the pressure pad |
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I had the exact same problem about two weeks ago. I have one of the Surefire rechargeable batteries. I let it charge all day, put it back in, have not had the problem since.
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Thread resurrection.
Didn’t feel the need to start a new thread. As I’m having the exact same issue here. I use my pressure pad and the light almost gives a bright flash and then output is instantly dropped. Putting the click tailcap on I have a constant noticeably brighter beam. This is a new light and I’ve only had it a week. What gives here? What would a pressure switch have to do with output. It’s a simple connection it’s either on or off. Anyone have any advice? |
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Having the same exact problem with my SR07. I also noticed a observable difference in brightness between using the pressure pad and the on/off button on the SR07. The on/off button being noticeably dimmer.
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Just noticed the thread has been revived! Yeah, surefire sent me a new switch and that didn't fix it. If I unplug the switch and put it back in, that seems to help for a while but even then.. It pales in comparison to when I use the clicky tail cap.
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@Rotorwash109
@marine9 @Afvs28957 update: So i took my tailcap off and removed the switch and there is little spring/coil that is threaded into a peice of metal.. Try to twist that coil so more of the spring is threaded into that piece of metal. I was thinking maybe there wasn't enough countact when the switch is screwed on. It seemed to have fixed it but only time will tell. |
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Tag for later. I have not noticed if my set up has this issue.
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i've noticed that when i switch tailcaps with battery inside issue happen, try to install the tailcap without battery and twist and center more the spring.
Also push strongly the switch, if i'm "soft" mine it will dim. |
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Those experiencing the dimming issue- are you using the red or black 18650? I had this same issue, using the original black battery as provided in the earlier models.
I reached out and was told that battery was basically “over protecting” itself, and was since fixed with the updated red USB charged battery. They sent that for free, I did a full charge and have been good to go since. I’m also using a tape switch, and haven’t had any more issues. |
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i got the red one, i tried to get the same issue with standard tailcap and it happen, if you try to push it really soft it will dim, but it's not really easy to do as with sr switch
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Quoted:
update, issue still there, i observed better the tailcap, it look that the gold circle is not correctly in place, maybe has yours same defect? https://i.imgur.com/fNWO5e3.jpg View Quote |
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exactly, i noticed only right now this defect, i never did something strange to the flashlight, it is factory defect for sure, i tried to put back in the correct position but it's impossible only with hands...
maybe other guys with dim issue have same defected tailcap? |
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ok i searched for this issue, found this topic:
https://www.ar15.com/forums/ar-15/Surefire-Scout-Light-remote-tail-cap-issue/20-718514/ It looks a very common problem, i won't be surprised if the issue is caused by that. |
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Man my x300 is so much brighter than m600df. It’s like night and day.. it’s kinda starting to piss me off but surefire took care of me last time
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Glad I found this thread. I'm having the same issue with my M600DF.
I bought my light and switch last year and always noticed that my X300u on my pistol seemed brighter. I recently just got the Modlite PLH head and at first I wasn't too impressed with the output, using the same DF body and tape switch. I took the switch off and put the original click tail cap back on, and noticed the output was brighter. Swapped the original DF head back on, same thing it seemed brighter. Now my DF head is brighter than the X300u. At this point I want to say that the tape switch is definitely the issue. Problem is from what I've seen, swapping it out might not be effective. I'm wondering if maybe i should go with a different cap and switch setup? I have the UE-SR07 setup and perhaps I should go with the DS07 instead? I rarely use the constant on button but it would be nice to still have it on the cap in case the switch fails. |
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I had something similar happen once. Turned out I got bought a knock off Surefire tail cap off of Amazon.
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So...anyone found a permanent solution?
I bought a DS00 tailcap, issue is still there... With CR123 no issues so far... |
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I had the same issue with dual fuel and sr07 switch. I used the included surefire rechargeable battery and noticed it was dim occasionally. I unplugged everything made sure both ends of the light were tight and plugged the switch back in. This is my go to HD rifle and I do a quick test every day and it is working 100% since then.
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I triple checked everything, all is tight.
When i push strong the pressure pad it works at full power but when i push the pad more softly it start at something around 800 lumens and then immediately go very low power, maybe half the lumens. Is it normal? If i push the button on ds00 it works most of times at full power, probably because it is more difficult to simulate the same issue with a clicky button. |
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Same issue. I have the UE SR-07 on a Modlite PLH 18350. As long as the rifle just sits the tape switch works fine. After a mag the switch will not turn the light on. If I unscrew the tail cap slightly and tighten it the switch works again. Also, if I wiggle the SR-07 wire by the cap the light will flicker or go out. Modlite says this is a faulty tail cap or SR-07 plug. Does anyone know for sure what the cause is? It is highly frustrating.
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Originally Posted By camarofrk: Same issue. I have the UE SR-07 on a Modlite PLH 18350. As long as the rifle just sits the tape switch works fine. After a mag the switch will not turn the light on. If I unscrew the tail cap slightly and tighten it the switch works again. Also, if I wiggle the SR-07 wire by the cap the light will flicker or go out. Modlite says this is a faulty tail cap or SR-07 plug. Does anyone know for sure what the cause is? It is highly frustrating. View Quote Best way to test is getting a clicky cap for the light and run the gun. If all goes well, you'll know for sure it's your tapeswitch. I've given up on the Surefire switches and when I get a new light, I'm shelling out money for the Modbutton. |
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Originally Posted By bravozero: Best way to test is getting a clicky cap for the light and run the gun. If all goes well, you'll know for sure it's your tapeswitch. I've given up on the Surefire switches and when I get a new light, I'm shelling out money for the Modbutton. View Quote I am thinking about getting a modbutton as well except it does not have a tail cap. I am stuck using the Surefire cap and what if that is the issue? I'll most likely get the MB anyway. |
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Quoted: I triple checked everything, all is tight. When i push strong the pressure pad it works at full power but when i push the pad more softly it start at something around 800 lumens and then immediately go very low power, maybe half the lumens. Is it normal? If i push the button on ds00 it works most of times at full power, probably because it is more difficult to simulate the same issue with a clicky button. View Quote Do you have a different battery to check? I mean besides primary cr123. You could have a defective rechargeable battery. If you can, try different rechargeables. |
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I'm having same issue with ue tailcap and sr07, i've measured my m600df output with phone app and apparently z68 - clicky tailcap provides about 50k lux while sr07 drops it to 30k and buzzing can be heard
Dim issue occurs too but only when rear cap is changed, in order resolve it i simply take off the head and put it back on Kinda disappointed in surefire, I was hoping it won't have same issues as streamlight i used to own |
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Quoted: I'm having same issue with ue tailcap and sr07, i've measured my m600df output with phone app and apparently z68 - clicky tailcap provides about 50k lux while sr07 drops it to 30k and buzzing can be heard Dim issue occurs too but only when rear cap is changed, in order resolve it i simply take off the head and put it back on Kinda disappointed in surefire, I was hoping it won't have same issues as streamlight i used to own View Quote Are you using the SF DF head or modlite? |
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Quoted: Ok The m600df doesn’t get anywhere close to 30k, much less 50k. It’s rated for 16k. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: SF DF Ok The m600df doesn’t get anywhere close to 30k, much less 50k. It’s rated for 16k. That's really helpful, but You missed the point completely. I was trying to show difference between different type of switches in the same setting. If you put sensor close enough the the light your lumens will sky rocket. |
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Quoted: That's really helpful, but You missed the point completely. I was trying to show difference between different type of switches in the same setting. If you put sensor close enough the the light your lumens will sky rocket. View Quote I kinda figured that’s what you were getting at but my point is I don’t know how much I would trust this app at all if your not at least close to what the light is actually rated for. Maybe you can see the difference, I don’t know. When measuring the lux your measuring the brightest hottest spot somewhere in the center of the hot spot. If your not measuring the same spot every time your going to get different readings. Like I said, I’m not saying there’s no difference in your switches but if you can’t tell with the naked eye then I think that’s all surefire was worried about. It’s probably why they are so behind on the latest output technology because their scout line was supposed to be so modular, like legos. I’m sure if most people realized that the switch you used for your old scout won’t give you the output the DF is rated for and they would have to upgrade everything all over again they would probably hesitate to buy so many. I’m sure modlite knew when they came out with their lights that your not going to get the same output from the SF tape switch as you would with the clicky tailcap. But they marketed them as being compatible with ALL your existing scout gear. Then, when everyone gets into modlite they do the bait and switch and pull the mod button out and say yeah those SF tape switches aren’t actually going to give you all the lumens like ours will. |
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I'm also having this issue. I just recently purchased a M600DF and then the UE-SR07 switch setup a few weeks later. The light itself functioned flawlessly with the standard click cap. When I use the switch, it seems like it drops atleast 500 lumens on momentary, and maybe even 750 with constant on (also adds a heavy yellow hue).
I contacted surefire support, they said it sounded like a defective switch. Then sent me out a "one time complimentary replacement" switch and tail cap. Kudos for that honestly, was very easy to obtain and they shipped it very quickly. Unfortunately it gave me the same exact issue. I'm going to try some of the fixes people posted here later and report back. Honestly I am very disappointed by this. I thought surefire was the best of the best. I wish I had done more research on modlite before taking the plunge. Also I have the newer red 18650. Was not completely full charge when I attempted both switches but it was damn near. High enough that the red led is on but it wont cycle a new charge. (Tested at 4.1 VDC with a fluke multimeter) |
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Word is surefire 18650s aren't really good.. i've bought panasonic cr123s to do some tests - tailcap combined with cr123s gave best results, beam is the brightest.
SR07 with cr123s is nearly the same as 18650 with clicky tailcap. While sf 18650 red w/ sr07 has the worst, yellowish glow, not even a beam. |
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Quoted: Word is surefire 18650s aren't really good.. i've bought panasonic cr123s to do some tests - tailcap combined with cr123s gave best results, beam is the brightest. SR07 with cr123s is nearly the same as 18650 with clicky tailcap. While sf 18650 red w/ sr07 has the worst, yellowish glow, not even a beam. View Quote The batteries have nothing to do with the dimming. If the 18650 is bright with the clicky cap and not with the pressure pad, then clearly the battery isn't the issue. The fault is with either the pressure pads or the end caps they work with. |
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So here is my follow up.
I tried lots of the advice posted here and nothing seemed to work. I then tried using a couple 123a instead of my surefire 18650 and I noticed the the output on the switch and click cap were very close to each other. One thing I didnt try before was charging my 18650 battery until green (I mentioned in my previous post that my battery was so close to full that it wouldn't cycle a new charge). So I left my flashlight running for a bit to drain the battery, then charged it until green and presto it works fine. I also reinstalled the tailcap before the battery (advice posted here that sounded good to my ears). I just ordered 2 keeppower 18650s and a nitecore charger from illumn, incase this surefire 18650 wants to throw a tantrum again. |
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Bump. Just ordered the use-st07 to go on my 600df.
I’m calling and canceling the order. What’s the hotness to get these to work? I want a constant/click for my mk18 to mount to the top picatinny rail. Is my only option a unity hot button through a surefire cap? |
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I literally have 6 Modlites with SF switches and endcaps. They look and perform exactly like my modbutton.
Bummer you guys are having issues. |
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https://www.bigtexoutdoors.com/surefire-scout-tailcap-tape-switch-product-guide/
Read the details, specifically about these switches and these high output lights. It sounds like the wire may not be large enough diameter to support the current these lights require without significant resistive losses. |
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Honestly, I gave up on Surefire. For how much Surefire products cost and the medicore performance you get out of them, regardless of how durable they're supposed to be, it's not worth it.
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Solution... I had the same issue with the pressure pad. My Surefire Scout 600 would momentarily flash at full brightness and then dim anytime I would use the pressure pad. I messed with the Springs batteries even solder the cap spring to that little gold disc inside the cap. Nothing fixed it. Then I found a solution... if you look down into the hole where you insert the cable connection into the cap there's a small copper pin that sticks up in the center. I use the tiny allen wrench to push that pin just half a millimeter off center to any side. Doesn't take much just a little bit will do. And Bam! my light is shining at full strength and has been shining at full-strength for a couple days now no matter how much I bang it around or wiggle the cable. Haven't been out to shoot with it yet but hopefully in a week I should get out.
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Quoted: Solution... I had the same issue with the pressure pad. My Surefire Scout 600 would momentarily flash at full brightness and then dim anytime I would use the pressure pad. I messed with the Springs batteries even solder the cap spring to that little gold disc inside the cap. Nothing fixed it. Then I found a solution... if you look down into the hole where you insert the cable connection into the cap there's a small copper pin that sticks up in the center. I use the tiny allen wrench to push that pin just half a millimeter off center to any side. Doesn't take much just a little bit will do. And Bam! my light is shining at full strength and has been shining at full-strength for a couple days now no matter how much I bang it around or wiggle the cable. Haven't been out to shoot with it yet but hopefully in a week I should get out. View Quote Pictures? |
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Whelp it happened...
Thought I was lucky, and was dry firing practice today. Dropped the bolt, and the light dimmed significantly. Was able to consistently repeat it. Tried it with brand new CR123s....it practically wanted to die when I dropped the bolt. Emailed support. We'll see. I ordered mine about 3 months ago from Arisaka. May try to talk to them and even have it replaced with their own 600 light. |
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