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Posted: 8/5/2018 3:42:13 PM EDT
Friend picked up a pile of 223 ammo from academy sports a few months ago, avg price per round was 20 cents. I thought the price was outstanding but then realized it was steel casing not brass. He does not reload so does it matter? Doesn’t seem like many here buy the cheapest ammo with steel but. It sure what the negatives are.
My only 223 order was from freed munitions and they were reloads that have worked great. Cost was appx 20 cents as well, but with brass. Accuracy and cycling has been perfect |
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Most of the time, there's no issue with steel whatsoever. What I would do is try smaller batches first of different steel brands before you run out and buy 3-4 cases of a new brand. (That's the same with any ammo)
Some ARs (barrels & BCGs) are a little more sensitive to steel. I've never had problems with regular wolf steel cased. I did have issues with silver & brown bear getting stuck in the chamber and ripping off case rims. That happened across multiple brands of barrels and BCGs for me. Somebody will always come in and say "MUH AR CYCLES EVERYTHING", but.. it's better to be safe than sorry to make sure it's accurate enough and reliable enough through your regular use. |
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The steel cased ammo in that price range will use a bi-metal bullet which wears out barrel rifling faster, but not significantly faster, and the price savings of the ammo will more than pay for a new barrel. Other than that, I personally wouldn't use it for self defense purposes.
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I shoot it almost exclusively. The only issue I had was with a bad lot of WOLF back when it was still manuf by Tula. Barnaul took over wolf production years ago and I havent had an issue since.
The vast majority of people are never going to shoot out a barrel anyway and those that do will have saved enough to buy multiple barrels and more cases of ammo to boot. |
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It all depends on why you are shooting. There is a quote saying something like only accurate guns are interesting. I agree with that. If you feed an accurate gun 3 or 5 MOA ammo what's the point? On the other hand if you are just double taping B-27 silhouette at 15 yards, sure.
BTW, I tried out some of that yellow stripe no steel bullet in a steel case by Wolf and Tula. SUCKS! Wolf 55gr keyholed at 50 yards. Tula 62 fmj and hp, 5 MOA from a bipod and rear bag from a DD that easily shoots 1 MOA with FGMM. |
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If your rifle feeds it, run it. I only use steel in my Tavor and my AR15 with Echo trigger. Really only shoot them in at my indoor range that allows rapid fire. I practice double or triple taps at close range where accuracy doesnt matter really. Outdoor range shooting 50 yards+ it's brass because that's what I'd realistically shoot during shtf.
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Quoted:
The steel cased ammo in that price range will use a bi-metal bullet which wears out barrel rifling faster, but not significantly faster, and the price savings of the ammo will more than pay for a new barrel. Other than that, I personally wouldn't use it for self defense purposes. View Quote |
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Yup. Would I shoot a ton of it out of my SR-15...no. But I sure as shit will burn up as many PSA barrels as I can manage with the stuff. It’s great for inside 100yds. View Quote I use to mag dump a lot and my old SR15 Mod1 was my most used gun. After 4000rds of steel case Russian ammo and ~8500rds of brass case copper jacketed ammo, my old SR15 Mod1's bore started to wear down and with 2 of the lands in the bore almost gone. The rifle could still group 1.5MOA at 100 yards, however, after about 30rds, the bullet holes on paper wouldn't be completely circular. I later sold the complete upper to another KAC collector. My current shooter Mod1 has 18,200rds through it, all brass case copper jacketed ammo, and the bore looks pristine. If you can't easily replace your barrel... try not to shoot Russian steel case ammo... at least try not to mag dump |
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Bcm 14.5 carbine would eat anything. Since building more precision based rifles I've stopped shooting steel cased ammo.... Until I just ordered some Hornady steel match
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Is there a reason not to buy? Yes, supporting a hostile nations military industrial complex and evil leader that is aimed at destroying our country.
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I shoot it almost exclusively. The only issue I had was with a bad lot of WOLF back when it was still manuf by Tula. Barnaul took over wolf production years ago and I havent had an issue since. The vast majority of people are never going to shoot out a barrel anyway and those that do will have saved enough to buy multiple barrels and more cases of ammo to boot. View Quote |
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Is there a reason not to buy? Yes, supporting a hostile nations military industrial complex and evil leader that is aimed at destroying our country. View Quote |
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Some of these posts illustrate how little I shoot compared to you and for that reason, the steel vs brass cost differential is insignificant but I have 20 cents a round in my head and I guess that is only attainable for steel or reman ammo bc I don’t see such prices for name brand brass. Does it ever get that low?
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I prefer not to, but I have my reasons as for the why. Good reasons too.
But that said, I do have a few 500 round cases of the Wolf that's copper jacketed for my beater or for classes. Much safer to use than bi metal. |
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commies
dirty inconsistent - fire 10 thru a chrony and see 100fps hi/low spread it also tends to be slow, which will zero differently than hotter M193 copper washed steel jacket is hard on barrels, and tends not to fragment as much as M193 do not want / I won't buy it. |
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I’d just as soon get solid ammo like Wolf Gold for only a few pennies more these days, but as long as one is fine with 4ish MOA and doing non-precision shooting from a non-precision rifle, they should be happy.
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I’d just as soon get solid ammo like Wolf Gold for only a few pennies more these days, but as long as one is fine with 4ish MOA and doing non-precision shooting from a non-precision rifle, they should be happy. View Quote |
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View Quote "I can make me sum 12 cents a shot bullets" How much time did you spend on it "That doesn't count" Time is worth money, which reloaders never account for |
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I just got 2 boxes of Hornady steel match in to try. How do these compare to say wolf?
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always a poor argument "I can make me sum 12 cents a shot bullets" How much time did you spend on it "That doesn't count" Time is worth money, which reloaders never account for View Quote |
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Quoted: Time is worth the same reloading as it is posting on chat forums or sitting around watching TV. We don't get paid for any of those activities either. View Quote My time is my own to dictate how it's spent doing whatever I please. And I choose to reload because I get batter ammunition that way |
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Quoted: always a poor argument "I can make me sum 12 cents a shot bullets" How much time did you spend on it "That doesn't count" Time is worth money, which reloaders never account for View Quote |
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I just got 2 boxes of Hornady steel match in to try. How do these compare to say wolf? View Quote |
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Quoted: I don’t reload, but this argument depends entirely on if one views reloading as a chore or a hobby. Many that do, consider it a hobby. Many that don’t, consider it a chore. I don’t think that’s an accident. View Quote the hobby reloaders negate the cost that others will have to pay, either with time or money. And further you get people like about that falsely rationalize time |
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Quoted: always a poor argument "I can make me sum 12 cents a shot bullets" How much time did you spend on it "That doesn't count" Time is worth money, which reloaders never account for View Quote My time is valuable too. that's why I posted a Dillon 650 instead of a single stage. I get satisfaction making large amounts of quality ammo. you're never gonna increase your skills shooting dirt backstops with crappy steel cased junk from camp perry to the USPSA-IPSC Nationals, most of the guys at the top of the scoresheet are reloading |
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not even close hot shot next you'll tell me a ditch diggers time is the same a a lawyers amirite View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Time is worth the same reloading as it is posting on chat forums or sitting around watching TV. We don't get paid for any of those activities either. next you'll tell me a ditch diggers time is the same a a lawyers amirite some consider it a labor of love |
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Quoted: I don’t reload, but this argument depends entirely on if one views reloading as a chore or a hobby. Many that do, consider it a hobby. Many that don’t, consider it a chore. I don’t think that’s an accident. View Quote |
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Some ranges don't allow it, even if its bi-metal. It attracts a magnet, and arguing with ROs isn't a winner all the time.
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Quoted:
Friend picked up a pile of 223 ammo from academy sports a few months ago, avg price per round was 20 cents. I thought the price was outstanding but then realized it was steel casing not brass. He does not reload so does it matter? Doesn’t seem like many here buy the cheapest ammo with steel but. It sure what the negatives are. My only 223 order was from freed munitions and they were reloads that have worked great. Cost was appx 20 cents as well, but with brass. Accuracy and cycling has been perfect View Quote |
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Quoted: If you are using it for practice at appropriate ranges then I don't see an issue. I would not keep it for long term storage ammo. I have seen steel case corrode in the mag and cause issues. This happened to me with 9mm steel cased ammo I left loaded in mags. Brass cased ammo can stay loaded for years and it may change color, tarnish, but it won't stick to itself or damage the walls of a steel magazine. There are many reasons why quality ammo has been made of brass for many many years. If money is not a concern brass is always better. View Quote if its kept from humidity, it will last as long as brass. |
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I shoot a ton of Brown Bear / Barnaul 55gr and it has cycled reliably with all the ARs I have (BCM, Spikes, DD, Ballistic Advantage, PSA). The only issues I have had are hard primers, but it's pretty infrequent and a good opportunity for failure drills. I've heard of more issues with Wolf and Tula, but haven't tried them.
I shoot almost exclusively with cans, and as long as I occasionally run a bore snake and keep the BCG oiled, there aren't problems. |
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If you shoot brass & then shoot steel, be sure to clean your rifle & especially scrub the chamber well.
Brass expands when fired which keeps the chamber cleaner. Steel doesn't expand at firing. That allows more gas & grit around the chamber. Firing brass, then steel then back to brass can cause malfunctions due to the brass expanding against the now dirty & gritty chamber. |
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Working at a range, I've seen it choke many firearms of all different kinds, especially AR15 & AR10. Idk why but my mutt AR15 build eats it well with never an issue. Colt Barrel & BCG combo, over-gased. I also don't shoot until my barrel smokes like most of the people I've seen do. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. Your mileage my vary. Try it, if your gun is crap & can't handle it maybe reloads will be your next best alternative for budget ammo. Not trying to offend anybody with the "Your AR15 sucks" remark but I have to be brutally honest sometimes, as I've SEENT it far too many times
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Not trying to offend anybody with the "Your AR15 sucks" remark but I have to be brutally honest sometimes, as I've SEENT it far too many times View Quote If you have been here for any amount of time, the "whats wrong" threads in the AR section are a good sign. any decent AR should run steel w/o problems with min maintenance |
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My personal reason why I don't use steel ammo in any gun I own. (besides the very good reasons already mentioned)
1. Steel ammo tends to be coated in a clear lacquer paint. Super heated sticks to the inside of your chamber and curds everything up and just more that I have to clean. 2. I tend to do what then engineers that designed my firearm intended me to do. Varying from that tends to screw things up. Firearms were designed with brass ammo in mind. Steel ammo against a steel extractor, I would think, would put greater wear on my my extractor as it was designed to be pulling a brass case, not a steel one. Steel against steel causes more wear ... all over, as opposed to brass. Again, just my opinion. Since I don't need to i just don't. |
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Buy it. Only one Ive seen that was lacquered was AK ammo years ago. Buy it cheap stack it deep. Some day these prices will go back up.
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I have had no problems, and its great to just pay less to be able to shoot more.
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I shoot a ton of Brown Bear / Barnaul 55gr and it has cycled reliably with all the ARs I have (BCM, Spikes, DD, Ballistic Advantage, PSA). The only issues I have had are hard primers, but it's pretty infrequent and a good opportunity for failure drills. I've heard of more issues with Wolf and Tula, but haven't tried them. I shoot almost exclusively with cans, and as long as I occasionally run a bore snake and keep the BCG oiled, there aren't problems. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
I shoot a ton of Brown Bear / Barnaul 55gr and it has cycled reliably with all the ARs I have (BCM, Spikes, DD, Ballistic Advantage, PSA). The only issues I have had are hard primers, but it's pretty infrequent and a good opportunity for failure drills. I've heard of more issues with Wolf and Tula, but haven't tried them. I shoot almost exclusively with cans, and as long as I occasionally run a bore snake and keep the BCG oiled, there aren't problems. Quoted:
Buy it. Only one Ive seen that was lacquered was AK ammo years ago. Buy it cheap stack it deep. Some day these prices will go back up. Most of the Barnual ammo with exception of the WOLF poly casing which they make is laquer coated. Brown Bear Herters (Cabelas or Bass Pro forget which one) Monarch (Academy) Barnaul contract ammo though SGAMMO Some versions of WOLF My personal reason why I don't use steel ammo in any gun I own. (besides the very good reasons already mentioned) 1. Steel ammo tends to be coated in a clear lacquer paint. Super heated sticks to the inside of your chamber and curds everything up and just more that I have to clean. 2. I tend to do what then engineers that designed my firearm intended me to do. Varying from that tends to screw things up. Firearms were designed with brass ammo in mind. Steel ammo against a steel extractor, I would think, would put greater wear on my my extractor as it was designed to be pulling a brass case, not a steel one. Steel against steel causes more wear ... all over, as opposed to brass. Again, just my opinion. Since I don't need to i just don't. 2)The steel casings are soft steel not tool steel. Even if it does wear out an extractor, in say 5000 rounds, you can buy 36 spare extractors with the money you saved over that 5000 rounds. Or a new Faxon barrel and 21 spare extractors. Quoted:
I have had no problems, and its great to just pay less to be able to shoot more. |
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FYI, Tula now has steel case but non magnetic bullet ammo. I just ordered a bunch in 7.62x39 for indoor range plinking. IIRC sgammo has it for 9.95 per 40 rounds.
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Not any rifle that I know of but Winchester makes the forged line which is steel cased but IMO far lower quality than anything from Russia. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes |
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