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Posted: 1/26/2014 7:57:05 AM EDT
[#1]
Their web page indicates they use taper pins, so the pins should drift out in the normal manner.
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Posted: 1/26/2014 8:11:55 AM EDT
[#2]
I've removed two. Both had taper pins, soak with PB blaster and use a 2 pound hammer and nail set to start them.
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Posted: 1/26/2014 10:47:24 AM EDT
[#3]
I am newly signed up to the forum but have been reading the retro threads for several years. I was fixing to buy one of these same 1/9 barrels (since original 1/12 barrels are through the ceiling) to build up my LM forge code Martin Marietta M161a1 upper (the kind with purple hues). My questions though are these: Are you pleased with the AR15sport barrel? Did you have any issues?
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Posted: 1/26/2014 12:51:06 PM EDT
[#4]
I bought four for blaster/kids/new shooter builds. Two are on C7 uppers with 2,600 rounds each. All 55gr FMJ and they work fine. No, they aren't White Oak match barrels. Now, with the 1/9 twist I can load some heavier pills then on my 1/12 tubes.
The only down side is when running the M261 adapter. The accuracy isn't there, but it is better then a 1/7 barrel. An the M261 gets new shooters in the game. |
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Posted: 1/26/2014 3:02:37 PM EDT
[#5]
I did not mean to threadjack, but thank you for the info.
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Posted: 1/26/2014 4:55:54 PM EDT
[#6]
Okay, so with taper pins they should be removed left to right, correct?
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Posted: 1/26/2014 5:50:39 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Okay, so with taper pins they should be removed left to right, correct? good way to remember is they drift out the same direction as ejecting brass. |
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Posted: 1/26/2014 6:02:30 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
good way to remember is they drift out the same direction as ejecting brass. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Okay, so with taper pins they should be removed left to right, correct? good way to remember is they drift out the same direction as ejecting brass. 99% of the time. Look at the pin heads. Hit the smaller head 
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Posted: 1/26/2014 6:48:59 PM EDT
[#9]
Thanks guys.
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